Hi Sidewalls and Large Wide Tyres , and the Less Informed = .

I've got Bridgy's fitted to my pick-up and never run them at less than 35psi. 29 or 30 is a bit low.

Oh! You started it now ...For the record I agree.

So Toyota (or other) with ALL their testing are wrong.

Well OP's tyre pressures have nothing to do with his problem.

Many people I find mess with pressures and usually go for more I don't.

If you don't change from OEM tyres, Vigo 4x4 recommend 29 psi all round with Bridgy's & Miche's as well I remember, personally I like a soft ride as apposed to a fast ride because of the lousy surfaces of roads around here, have read quotes about 6 psi either way but no more.

Edited March 16, 201313 yr by Kwasaki

Lkie Kawasaki. i rely on Tyre Plus or any big outlet,and one of Transams Lotus Dial Gauges. No Worries. Must try the Tile Squeal Test inside Lotus one day.

No gold stars for anyone: I told the mechanic that we thought it likely to be the cv joint but also to check the suspension but when he heard the clunk, he reckoned it was the universal joints. He has replaced these (2 u-joints), which has indeed resolved the issue (1,100 baht parts plus 300 baht labour). No digs intended towards anyone’s suggestions since I appreciate how much harder it is to diagnose such a problem remotely – thank you all for your efforts.

I’ve attached a pic of the old u-joints to satisfy anyone that may, with good reason, wonder if I’ve named the replacement parts correctly this time!

Whilst driving the 60km to the mechanic, I realized that my initial concerns on instability after the replacement of the steering rack were proving unfounded. It must have just been in my mind, and my spoken concern had also influenced my wife. Checking with the mechanic, he confirmed that the wheels had been correctly aligned. So Lickey earns himself a gold star in this regard since he rather annoyingly stated that of course the replacement would feel different.

Cheers
Khonwan

P.S. I’ll leave Ace of Pop to enjoy his hot air – he must be so very happy to be so easily amused; whatever gets you through the day, I suppose.

29 or 30 is a bit soft when you hit the really rough bits. If the tyre deforms on contact with a really rough bit of road there is the problem of any impact damage hastening the demise of the tyre. Adding another 5 psi helps the tyre resist deforming without reducing it's contact patch on the road by more than a small percentage.

No gold stars for anyone: I told the mechanic that we thought it likely to be the cv joint but also to check the suspension but when he heard the clunk, he reckoned it was the universal joints. He has replaced these (2 u-joints), which has indeed resolved the issue (1,100 baht parts plus 300 baht labour). No digs intended towards anyone’s suggestions since I appreciate how much harder it is to diagnose such a problem remotely – thank you all for your efforts.

I’ve attached a pic of the old u-joints to satisfy anyone that may, with good reason, wonder if I’ve named the replacement parts correctly this time!

Whilst driving the 60km to the mechanic, I realized that my initial concerns on instability after the replacement of the steering rack were proving unfounded. It must have just been in my mind, and my spoken concern had also influenced my wife. Checking with the mechanic, he confirmed that the wheels had been correctly aligned. So Lickey earns himself a gold star in this regard since he rather annoyingly stated that of course the replacement would feel different.

Cheers

Khonwan

P.S. I’ll leave Ace of Pop to enjoy his hot air – he must be so very happy to be so easily amused; whatever gets you through the day, I suppose.

....and the steering rack was replaced because??????

The steering rack was changed because…. I’m not sure! All I know is that the steering fluid needed topped up every day due to a leak and that leak was determined to be at the shaft. Both the Toyota dealer and my independent mechanic advised that it needed replacement.

As to tyre pressures – I can’t get as excited about this subject as others. I just reckon that multi-billion dollar manufacturers of vehicles might just have a better understanding of the right tyre pressure for the tyres that they fit to their vehicles…and I see no point in try to second guess them. I choose to overinflate by 1psi since I find that my tyres squeal at 29psi and don’t at 30psi. Ace of Pop, please forgive my reliance on empirical evidence.

I've got Bridgy's fitted to my pick-up and never run them at less than 35psi. 29 or 30 is a bit low.

Oh! You started it now ...For the record I agree.

So Toyota (or other) with ALL their testing are wrong.

Doubtful Toyota & others took EVERY tire manufacturer and road surface into account and the driving styles of a given owner more likely they made a broad recommendation designed for the unthinking daily driver.."Simple stupid" I believe it's termed.. For disclaimer purposes..

Edited March 16, 201313 yr by WarpSpeed

No gold stars for anyone: I told the mechanic that we thought it likely to be the cv joint but also to check the suspension but when he heard the clunk, he reckoned it was the universal joints. He has replaced these (2 u-joints), which has indeed resolved the issue (1,100 baht parts plus 300 baht labour). No digs intended towards anyone’s suggestions since I appreciate how much harder it is to diagnose such a problem remotely – thank you all for your efforts.

I’ve attached a pic of the old u-joints to satisfy anyone that may, with good reason, wonder if I’ve named the replacement parts correctly this time!

Whilst driving the 60km to the mechanic, I realized that my initial concerns on instability after the replacement of the steering rack were proving unfounded. It must have just been in my mind, and my spoken concern had also influenced my wife. Checking with the mechanic, he confirmed that the wheels had been correctly aligned. So Lickey earns himself a gold star in this regard since he rather annoyingly stated that of course the replacement would feel different.

Cheers

Khonwan

P.S. I’ll leave Ace of Pop to enjoy his hot air – he must be so very happy to be so easily amused; whatever gets you through the day, I suppose.

Ok well the Op has to be more accurate in his description to get accurate responses given that we are flying blind and you started out calling a steering rack CV joints. I considered U joints but you kept stating the noise location was up front etc. and the U joints are not located up front..Very frustrating to say the least...

Thanks for telling us the outcome and good you found your problem but try to be a bit more specific in the future eh?

Edited March 16, 201313 yr by WarpSpeed

Fair enough criticism that I've already confessed to - mea culpa, mea culpa. However, the noise WAS up front! You tell me that the u-joints are from the back - news to me since the first I saw of them was in the back of the pickup. I've no idea what they are attached to or where? I'm a very knowledgeable person in many spheres of life...but mechanics is not one of them.

Fair enough criticism that I've already confessed to - mea culpa, mea culpa. However, the noise WAS up front! You tell me that the u-joints are from the back - news to me since the first I saw of them was in the back of the pickup. I've no idea what they are attached to or where? I'm a very knowledgeable person in many spheres of life...but mechanics is not one of them.

They're not exclusively in the back there is also one in the middle under your bottom (more specifically between you and the passenger under the tunnel that splits you) they connect the transfer case to the rear drive and provide a pivot point for the drive shaft to move about front to rear, up and down, side to side, while the suspension moves in different directions and the drive shaft rotates, so one at each end. Depending on which one is actually the problem in this case it seems that the front one may have been the primary issue but sensible to change both but the sound is rather distinctive in it's location honestly. It was my first impulse to mention U joints many posts back but anyways it's resolved to your satisfaction and now you have a wider knowledge all the way around for the future but could have been done much more quickly for all concerned but I guess in the end you had the most frustration with it..

Edited March 16, 201313 yr by WarpSpeed

I found this in a product advert on the Internet before reading your post above, which clarifies things; I appreciate that there is one at the back too.

• Type: Universal Joint
• Position: Front
• Car Make: for TOYOTA Hilux Vigo

The steering rack was changed because…. I’m not sure! All I know is that the steering fluid needed topped up every day due to a leak and that leak was determined to be at the shaft. Both the Toyota dealer and my independent mechanic advised that it needed replacement.

As to tyre pressures – I can’t get as excited about this subject as others. I just reckon that multi-billion dollar manufacturers of vehicles might just have a better understanding of the right tyre pressure for the tyres that they fit to their vehicles…and I see no point in try to second guess them. I choose to overinflate by 1psi since I find that my tyres squeal at 29psi and don’t at 30psi. Ace of Pop, please forgive my reliance on empirical evidence.

Having reconditioned many rack and pinions over the years the main problem is leaking seals or worn rack shaft bearings, which are usually made of nylon. As a matter of interest, what was the cost of a new rack and pinion? .

Cost me a total of Bt11,450 (or Bt11,550 - I've already posted the cost earlier, somewhere) for the rack, steering fluid, and labour. Of that, 10,000 was for the rack. My wife could easily be wrong about what she was told a week earlier at the Toyota dealer (she knows even less than me about mechanics!!) but she believes that she was being told it was this same part that required replacement and that the part would cost Bt22,000 (before labour).

10,000 bht means a reconditioned rack.

29 or 30 is a bit soft when you hit the really rough bits. If the tyre deforms on contact with a really rough bit of road there is the problem of any impact damage hastening the demise of the tyre. Adding another 5 psi helps the tyre resist deforming without reducing it's contact patch on the road by more than a small percentage.

With respect to that finding, I still say everyone to their own set up with suspension and tyre pressures.

On the motorbike I run lower tyre pressures because of many bad road surfaces I find myself on, OEM tyre pressure seemed to me like it's running on bowling balls, I like my suspension settings soft too, seeing as I am not goner go on a track anymore.

Run my scoot on low tyre pressure and the Mrs has a Mio and always saying there's something wrong when I ride my motorbike, I just say you have had your tyres pumped up haven't you, " yes she says how did you know that ".

The Vigo had quite sloppy suspension but again with higher tyre pressures it was noisey, I think the reason for 29 psi was because of the high wall tyres which play a part in the ride.

Unladed the Vigo rear I put 26psi cold which read 28 when driven a while, front 27psi again 29 driven, I like the front squealing it make me feel I am going really fast.

Edited March 17, 201313 yr by Kwasaki

No gold stars for anyone: I told the mechanic that we thought it likely to be the cv joint but also to check the suspension but when he heard the clunk, he reckoned it was the universal joints. He has replaced these (2 u-joints), which has indeed resolved the issue (1,100 baht parts plus 300 baht labour). No digs intended towards anyone’s suggestions since I appreciate how much harder it is to diagnose such a problem remotely – thank you all for your efforts.

I’ve attached a pic of the old u-joints to satisfy anyone that may, with good reason, wonder if I’ve named the replacement parts correctly this time!

Whilst driving the 60km to the mechanic, I realized that my initial concerns on instability after the replacement of the steering rack were proving unfounded. It must have just been in my mind, and my spoken concern had also influenced my wife. Checking with the mechanic, he confirmed that the wheels had been correctly aligned. So Lickey earns himself a gold star in this regard since he rather annoyingly stated that of course the replacement would feel different.

Cheers

Khonwan

P.S. I’ll leave Ace of Pop to enjoy his hot air – he must be so very happy to be so easily amused; whatever gets you through the day, I suppose.

Fair bit of Hot Air over Ball Joints. . Tyre Plus would have spotted and fixed it in 30 Mins.

Tyres and their ''advised'' pressures are all part of a suspension system for a PARTICULAR ride. If you want to increase pressures then you will make the tyre more ''solid'' and move stress to other ''mechanical'' stuff. Up to you.

PS. We are not talking race cars here where strip down happens after very few miles.

10,000 bht means a reconditioned rack.

Yes, that's what I expected but the mechanic said it would be new (after quoting the price); it could be that he didn't quite understand my attempt to ask him if it was reconditioned, though I speak Thai reasonably well. The repair shop (it's in Nakhon Sawan province) had to order it from Bkk.

10,000 bht means a reconditioned rack.

Yes, that's what I expected but the mechanic said it would be new (after quoting the price); it could be that he didn't quite understand my attempt to ask him if it was reconditioned, though I speak Thai reasonably well. The repair shop (it's in Nakhon Sawan province) had to order it from Bkk.

It's a recon.

Better 10k for a recon than 22k for a new part I reckon. Also suggests to me that my wife was probably told by Toyota that it was this part indeed that needed to be replaced - the difference in price had caused me to wonder about that.

Better 10k for a recon than 22k for a new part I reckon. Also suggests to me that my wife was probably told by Toyota that it was this part indeed that needed to be replaced - the difference in price had caused me to wonder about that.

I think they taking advantage of your lack of mechanical knowledge.

A couple of bearings and a bag of seals is what a reconditioned rack is about.

Edited March 17, 201313 yr by BSJ

I don't know if I am adding fuel to the fire, but this type of diagram has been around since the time of Adam.

Plain to see under inflated is extremely dangerous. Over inflated not so as the tyre will go down, not up in pressure...unless your travelling at high speed for a long time.

No gold stars for anyone: I told the mechanic that we thought it likely to be the cv joint but also to check the suspension but when he heard the clunk, he reckoned it was the universal joints. He has replaced these (2 u-joints), which has indeed resolved the issue (1,100 baht parts plus 300 baht labour). No digs intended towards anyone’s suggestions since I appreciate how much harder it is to diagnose such a problem remotely – thank you all for your efforts.

I’ve attached a pic of the old u-joints to satisfy anyone that may, with good reason, wonder if I’ve named the replacement parts correctly this time!

Whilst driving the 60km to the mechanic, I realized that my initial concerns on instability after the replacement of the steering rack were proving unfounded. It must have just been in my mind, and my spoken concern had also influenced my wife. Checking with the mechanic, he confirmed that the wheels had been correctly aligned. So Lickey earns himself a gold star in this regard since he rather annoyingly stated that of course the replacement would feel different.

Cheers

Khonwan

P.S. I’ll leave Ace of Pop to enjoy his hot air – he must be so very happy to be so easily amused; whatever gets you through the day, I suppose.

Fair bit of Hot Air over Ball Joints. . Tyre Plus would have spotted and fixed it in 30 Mins.

Not "ball joints" silly........U joints........Completely different..

Tyres and their ''advised'' pressures are all part of a suspension system for a PARTICULAR ride. If you want to increase pressures then you will make the tyre more ''solid'' and move stress to other ''mechanical'' stuff. Up to you.

PS. We are not talking race cars here where strip down happens after very few miles.

No we're not, but you can't seem to get past the narrow perception you have that we're talking everyday, daily driver, street cars... You can't quite grasp the concept that the cars being referred to are NOT purpose built race cars but uprated street cars on street legal, everyday tire and suspension set ups, it's just over your head and beyond your limited comprehension..

Tried to delete the rest of the quote but this new quote system is not quite familiar yet and does some strange things.

Edited March 17, 201313 yr by WarpSpeed

I don't know if I am adding fuel to the fire, but this type of diagram has been around since the time of Adam.

CropperCapture3.jpg

Plain to see under inflated is extremely dangerous. Over inflated not so as the tyre will go down, not up in pressure...unless your travelling at high speed for a long time.

It's old news BSJ you're beating a dead horse. They don't get it and never will, I've posted the same info numerous times and they'll look directly at it and still tell you the sky is red when most sensible people know it's blue..

No gold stars for anyone: I told the mechanic that we thought it likely to be the cv joint but also to check the suspension but when he heard the clunk, he reckoned it was the universal joints. He has replaced these (2 u-joints), which has indeed resolved the issue (1,100 baht parts plus 300 baht labour). No digs intended towards anyone’s suggestions since I appreciate how much harder it is to diagnose such a problem remotely – thank you all for your efforts.

I’ve attached a pic of the old u-joints to satisfy anyone that may, with good reason, wonder if I’ve named the replacement parts correctly this time!

Whilst driving the 60km to the mechanic, I realized that my initial concerns on instability after the replacement of the steering rack were proving unfounded. It must have just been in my mind, and my spoken concern had also influenced my wife. Checking with the mechanic, he confirmed that the wheels had been correctly aligned. So Lickey earns himself a gold star in this regard since he rather annoyingly stated that of course the replacement would feel different.

Cheers

Khonwan

P.S. I’ll leave Ace of Pop to enjoy his hot air – he must be so very happy to be so easily amused; whatever gets you through the day, I suppose.

Fair bit of Hot Air over Ball Joints. . Tyre Plus would have spotted and fixed it in 30 Mins.

Not "ball joints" silly........U joints........Completely different..

Quite So Warpy mistake caused by My Joint.

I don't know if I am adding fuel to the fire, but this type of diagram has been around since the time of Adam.

CropperCapture3.jpg

Plain to see under inflated is extremely dangerous. Over inflated not so as the tyre will go down, not up in pressure...unless your travelling at high speed for a long time.

No fuel to fire just personal choices as to the ride you want to say dangerous is not really what I consider to be exact, so the diagram is good for what and within what psi ?? heat make pressure gains yes/no.?? Thailand is hot and also very hot.

Maybe a bit over the top but comfort for me is important too not kidney damage.

Edited March 19, 201313 yr by Kwasaki

I don't know if I am adding fuel to the fire, but this type of diagram has been around since the time of Adam.

CropperCapture3.jpg

Plain to see under inflated is extremely dangerous. Over inflated not so as the tyre will go down, not up in pressure...unless your travelling at high speed for a long time.

No fuel to fire just personal choices as to the ride you want to say dangerous is not really what I consider to be exact, so the diagram is good for what and within what psi ?? heat make pressure gains yes/no.?? Thailand is hot and also very hot.

Maybe a bit over the top but comfort for me is important too not kidney damage.

I just put the info out there for people to consider. In the end it is up to you what you put in your tyres. If I had my way I would put helium in them to reduce unsprung weight and keep them cooler.

I don't know if I am adding fuel to the fire, but this type of diagram has been around since the time of Adam.

CropperCapture3.jpg

Plain to see under inflated is extremely dangerous. Over inflated not so as the tyre will go down, not up in pressure...unless your travelling at high speed for a long time.

No fuel to fire just personal choices as to the ride you want to say dangerous is not really what I consider to be exact, so the diagram is good for what and within what psi ?? heat make pressure gains yes/no.?? Thailand is hot and also very hot.

Maybe a bit over the top but comfort for me is important too not kidney damage.

I just put the info out there for people to consider. In the end it is up to you what you put in your tyres. If I had my way I would put helium in them to reduce unsprung weight and keep them cooler.

Good Idea . Helium, and do Hindenburg impersonations.