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Posted

most quality hardware stores carry torque wrenches,if not just order one from ebay or amazon,for a bike your probably going to want 1/4 inch drive up to 25nm

quality torque wrenches are generally $100 up

Posted

Setup at factory. I had a 1/2 inch and 1/4 inch. The 1/4 was in Nm. Nooo probs, BUT l would be careful about a no name tool. If your doing serious work I would get a pal to ship one to you. thumbsup.gif

Posted

Not the best in the world, but not bad for 1/2" drive- the listing has ended but there are others if you do a search- less than 1K with shipping to LOS, and no import taxes- http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Adjustable-torque-wrench-Tension-Calibrated-Tool-in-Newton-Mets-1-2-40-210nm-/111049277431?ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:3160- I've also got a 3/8ths version.

I've got a higher-end torque wrench from 0-600 in/lb (a lot of stuff on the bike needs surprisingly little torque).

Posted

remeber to always turn back the tension on spring when stored, eg put it in zero torque or the torque wrench will loose its callibration.

Good info. smile.png

Posted

I see you found some...These although primitive are a excellent choice.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-8-in-dr-beam-style-torque-wrench/p-00932999000P?prdNo=5&blockNo=5&blockType=G5&PDP_REDIRECT=false&s_tnt=41486:3:0

I have used them for years with no issues.

Yep, those kind sure are primitive. Try tightening down using one of those and then compare the torque with a high quality tool. Difference of 10-20% in many cases.

They're better than nothing for somebody who has no idea what 10lb. feels like compared to 30lb. I'd use them for basic stuff but anything that is super critical or safety related, I'd go a little up market.

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Posted

remeber to always turn back the tension on spring when stored, eg put it in zero torque or the torque wrench will loose its callibration.

As Transam says, that's good info. Also, don't assume that using a torque wrench ensures that you can't over tighten. You have to follow specific rules about the order of tightening bolts and even the process used to get to the specified torque.

My Old Man was the fussiest sod this side of the black stump. He taught me to finger tighten all the bolts in sequence then tighten each bolt sequentially to 10% of specified torque, then 20%, then 50%, then 75%, 90%, then 100%. It meant going over them 5 or 6 times but until the 75% point you'd get used to the feel and no need to use a torque wrench until the last two steps.

Even on a two bolt setup, a similar process should be followed. If you crank up one bolt to 40lb and then do the second bolt to 40lb, the first one will actually be more like 50 or 60lb due to leverage created by fully tightening the first bolt.

That's why I always undo and retighten my car wheel nuts after having tyres fitted etc. because technicians in all countries don't understand sequence, they just go in a circle and viciously over tighten them due to leverage even though they use air torque wrenches - so when you get a flat tyre on the roadside, the lug wrench in the car just can't handle it. Invariably I have to use an oversized wrench or a pipe extension to get them off.

Posted

There's a hell of a lot out there made in China with names like 'Brown and Morgan' or "Supa Mega' 'Supa Cheap' or 'Spero' or 'Britool'....but you never hear much of the companies that made the things like Dongguan Dongliang Industry Co or Hangzhou Dahe Tools Co or Wenling Kaituo Tools Co. Wonder why? biggrin.png

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