What to do with my CBR.... opinions please.

[Overandout]

So I've been on the road now for a few weeks using a CBR150 carb model that I bought quite cheaply from a colleague who has left Thailand.

Trouble is the bike sucks. I'll list a few of the issues to give you a feel of where I'm at:

Engine:

Sounds like a two stroke with piston slap when warm. Not sure yet if its a cam chain issue, cams themselves or worse....

When revved over about 5k rpm it has a rather pronounced vibration (could be that its just my perception as I've never had a 4 stroke single before, but the engine doesn't feel very happy)

I'm not sure how much power a CBR150 is supposed to make but I'm guessing that mine is way down.

On a positive note, there's no oil leaking out of it (perhaps there's none in there....) and the gears select OK

Clutch judders while pulling away.

Front end:

Front tyre has a slow puncture, needs inflating once a week.

Steering bearings are suspect

Both fork seals are blown and leaking oil down the stanchions

Brake seems to be OK though.

Rear end:

Seems to be wobbly, suspect that swing arm bearings/bushes are shot.

Damper doesn't damp, it pogos.

Rear brake is squeaky and grabby, probably been used for years with brake shoes with no friction material left on them.

Electrics:

No lights in the cluster means I can't see how fast (slow) I'm going at night (at least the engine tells me what revs I'm at by the frequency of the vibrations and rattling noises)

When I select main beam, the main and dipped beams come on but at about 1/3 power, like 2 candles in empty bean cans.

Battery is good though and it always starts.

Other anciliaries:

The mirrors are replacement chinese crap bolted to the bars instead of the fairing, they wobble around and are next to useless.

The red filters for the tail light under the clear persepx cover have fallen off and are rattling around inside the light unit.

Footpeg rubbers are worn through to the metal and droop down.

Passenger footpegs won't stay folded up.

Cosmetics:

The fairings are all there and in one piece, but the original decals have been removed and in general it looks tatty.

So to summarize, I hate it and need to make a decision from the following options:

1: Take it off the road, buy a cheap scooter to get about on temporarily, and fully restore the Honda to its original glorious state.

2: Cut my losses, sell it and buy something else.

3: Buy something else decent to use as a daily hack and turn the CBR into a project bike (possible drag style special?)

Any comments, be they serious, helpful, constructive, derogatory, insulting or amusing will be welcomed, considered and possibly discarded.

Edited October 10, 2013 by Overandout

[T_Dog]

You didn't say how many miles were on it, but it does sound quite neglected. Take it to a good Honda bike shop and see what they recommend. Getting a bike to decent condition is not usually a very expensive affair in Thailand. Or, trade it on on something heaftier!

[KRS1]

Quote:

So I've been on the road now for a few weeks using a CBR150 carb model that I bought quite cheaply from a colleague who has left Thailand.

Trouble is the bike sucks. I'll list a few of the issues to give you a feel of where I'm at:

Engine:

Sounds like a two stroke with piston slap when warm. Not sure yet if its a cam chain issue, cams themselves or worse....

When revved over about 5k rpm it has a rather pronounced vibration (could be that its just my perception as I've never had a 4 stroke single before, but the engine doesn't feel very happy)

cam chain tensioner needs replacing 650 baht, that bike vibrates, but does much better with the cat removed. The air and idle control probably needs some tweaking too. The carb needle should probably be replaced by now also, when it gets worn it snacks back and forth causing vibration do to inconsistent mixture 200 baht.

I'm not sure how much power a CBR150 is supposed to make but I'm guessing that mine is way down.

On a positive note, there's no oil leaking out of it (perhaps there's none in there....) and the gears select OK

They arent very strong bikes, but they can be made to be more responsive. With better acceleration with additional top speed Tsukigi down tube 800 baht, reinforced welds fro somchai 200 baht.

Clutch judders while pulling away.

Tighten the clutch cable at the engine, if there is room left for adjustment. Change the oil and lubricate the chain also.

If the clutch is about to be completely worn out, you may want to consider getting rid of the bike. 2000ish baht.

Front end:

Front tyre has a slow puncture, needs inflating once a week.

Fix tire with plug, or get the valve stem checked to make sure the valve is not loose,new valve stem 120 baht.

Steering bearings are suspect

Both fork seals are blown and leaking oil down the stanchions

If it knocks when you brake hard or go over bumps, steering head bearings are bad. Big job to change head bearings 700 baht, and no one will want to touch it.

leaking forks are only a problem if you ride hard, or are extra heavy weight...average rider wouldnt know the difference.

Brake seems to be OK though.

Rear end:

Seems to be wobbly, suspect that swing arm bearings/bushes are shot.

Could be the wheel bearings, but its probably an underinflated cheapest possible tire, or there may have been an innertube used that is not the correct size (oem is suppose to be tubeless)..new tire 800 baht size 100/70-17. (irc oem)

Damper doesn't damp, it pogos.

If your frame is black it can be adjusted, if your frame is grey it cannot. New shock 800 baht.

Rear brake is squeaky and grabby, probably been used for years with brake shoes with no friction material left on them.

if its squeaky you have brake material, if its grinding you dont. If its grabby its the incorrect mastercylinder. Brake pads 150 baht.

Electrics:

No lights in the cluster means I can't see how fast (slow) I'm going at night (at least the engine tells me what revs I'm at by the frequency of the vibrations and rattling noises)

Dash light bulbs are probably out, but if not the wiring harness may be unplugged. Bulbs 50 baht.

When I select main beam, the main and dipped beams come on but at about 1/3 power, like 2 candles in empty bean cans.

Battery is good though and it always starts.

Headlights have always sucked, they run off the alternator, you can improve it a little by using Osram bulbs, but it will eventually melt the harness. Live witht he sorry headlights, no way around it, unless you install projectors.

Other anciliaries:

The mirrors are replacement chinese crap bolted to the bars instead of the fairing, they wobble around and are next to useless.

put the mirrors in place and drip super glue at the ball joint. 25 baht

The red filters for the tail light under the clear persepx cover have fallen off and are rattling around inside the light unit.

take tailight off and reinstall the red lights securing them with glue, its a common fault. 25 baht plus 100 baht labor from somchai.

Footpeg rubbers are worn through to the metal and droop down.

Get new pegs.

Passenger footpegs won't stay folded up.

install washers 20 baht

Cosmetics:

The fairings are all there and in one piece, but the original decals have been removed and in general it looks tatty.

New decal pack is 350 baht

So to summarize, I hate it and need to make a decision from the following options:

1: Take it off the road, buy a cheap scooter to get about on temporarily, and fully restore the Honda to its original glorious state.

2: Cut my losses, sell it and buy something else.

3: Buy something else decent to use as a daily hack and turn the CBR into a project bike (possible drag style special?)

Any comments, be they serious, helpful, constructive, derogatory, insulting or amusing will be welcomed, considered and possibly discarded.

Edited October 10, 2013 by KRS1

[VocalNeal]

I guess depending on your initial cost but for a replacement you won't get much in the way of a decent bike for under 10,000 baht even if Claire buys old Honda Tenas for 4500!

So even if you spent 10,000 on it you would still have a reasonably decent bike and would always get the 10,000 back.

[Overandout]

Thanks KR, for your constructive information.

In general I don't trust any mechanics to work on my motorbikes and I have always done my own maintenance and repairs (when I lived in the UK I was too poor to pay for good mechanics rates and then I moved to Spain where all the decent mechanics work for race teams and those left in high street garages are dangerous rip off merchants) so I won't be considering taking the bike anywhere for anything other than very specialist repairs such as alternator rewinding and tyre plugging which can't be done at home.

Anyway I comment on your specific comments....

Quote:

So I've been on the road now for a few weeks using a CBR150 carb model that I bought quite cheaply from a colleague who has left Thailand.

Trouble is the bike sucks. I'll list a few of the issues to give you a feel of where I'm at:

Engine:

Sounds like a two stroke with piston slap when warm. Not sure yet if its a cam chain issue, cams themselves or worse....

When revved over about 5k rpm it has a rather pronounced vibration (could be that its just my perception as I've never had a 4 stroke single before, but the engine doesn't feel very happy)

cam chain tensioner needs replacing 650 baht, probably that's it but I'm wondering if I should strip the engine or at least the head to be sure before spnding out on any parts. that bike vibrates, but does much better with the cat removed. don't think I've got a cat, not on a carb engine surely? The air and idle control probably needs some tweaking too. The carb needle should probably be replaced by now also, when it gets worn it snacks back and forth causing vibration do to inconsistent mixture 200 baht. If the carb is like the rest of the bike it probably needs a complete overhaul!

I'm not sure how much power a CBR150 is supposed to make but I'm guessing that mine is way down.

On a positive note, there's no oil leaking out of it (perhaps there's none in there....) and the gears select OK

They arent very strong bikes, but they can be made to be more responsive. With better acceleration with additional top speed Tsukigi down tube 800 baht, reinforced welds fro somchai 200 baht. Sounds good, but I'm a long way off increasing performance at the moment.. what welds do you mean to be reinforced? The ones on the Tsukigi down tube?

Clutch judders while pulling away.

Tighten the clutch cable at the engine, if there is room left for adjustment. Change the oil and lubricate the chain also. I'm honestly at the point of wondering if its even worth doing routine maintenance but I suppose you're right, I should.

If the clutch is about to be completely worn out, you may want to consider getting rid of the bike. 2000ish baht. I'm not against spending money on it, I just can't decide if I want to or not.....

Front end:

Front tyre has a slow puncture, needs inflating once a week.

Fix tire with plug, or get the valve stem checked to make sure the valve is not loose,new valve stem 120 baht. I already took it to a bike shop who just denied it was losing pressure (I think they just couldn't be bothered to look for the leak).

Steering bearings are suspect

Both fork seals are blown and leaking oil down the stanchions

If it knocks when you brake hard or go over bumps, steering head bearings are bad. Big job to change head bearings 700 baht, and no one will want to touch it. ? Steering bearings a big job? I did mine on my RGV in a morning and that included converting an old screwdriver into a suitable prybar to remove the old races without damaging the frame.

leaking forks are only a problem if you ride hard, or are extra heavy weight...average rider wouldnt know the difference. I disagree, forks used when all the oil has gone will score an wear the insides of the sliding lowers and will have to be replaced, happened to me on a GPZ600 I bought cheap years ago.

Brake seems to be OK though.

Rear end:

Seems to be wobbly, suspect that swing arm bearings/bushes are shot.

Could be the wheel bearings, but its probably an underinflated cheapest possible tire, or there may have been an innertube used that is not the correct size (oem is suppose to be tubeless)..new tire 800 baht size 100/70-17. (irc oem) Tyre presuure is OK, haven't checked the wheel bearings......

Damper doesn't damp, it pogos.

If your frame is black it can be adjusted, if your frame is grey it cannot. New shock 800 baht. It springs back up violently, I doubt adjustment can save it, but I do have a black frame (that could be dirt and grime though...)

Rear brake is squeaky and grabby, probably been used for years with brake shoes with no friction material left on them.

if its squeaky you have brake material, if its grinding you dont. If its grabby its the incorrect mastercylinder. Brake pads 150 baht. See my comment above about routine maintenance....

Electrics:

No lights in the cluster means I can't see how fast (slow) I'm going at night (at least the engine tells me what revs I'm at by the frequency of the vibrations and rattling noises)

Dash light bulbs are probably out, but if not the wiring harness may be unplugged. Bulbs 50 baht. You're probably right but I'm losing the will to invest my time in a bike I may always hate.

When I select main beam, the main and dipped beams come on but at about 1/3 power, like 2 candles in empty bean cans.

Battery is good though and it always starts.

Headlights have always sucked, they run off the alternator, you can improve it a little by using Osram bulbs, but it will eventually melt the harness. Live witht he sorry headlights, no way around it, unless you install projectors. Well, at least I'm not in danger of dazzling any oncoming traffic....

Other anciliaries:

The mirrors are replacement chinese crap bolted to the bars instead of the fairing, they wobble around and are next to useless.

put the mirrors in place and drip super glue at the ball joint. 25 baht Bodger! I'm thinking a nice set of brand new mirrors (if I decide to save the mule from the knackers yard)

The red filters for the tail light under the clear persepx cover have fallen off and are rattling around inside the light unit.

take tailight off and reinstall the red lights securing them with glue, its a common fault. 25 baht plus 100 baht labor from somchai. Easy fix, lack of will power.....

Footpeg rubbers are worn through to the metal and droop down.

Get new pegs. Easy fix, lack of will power.....

Passenger footpegs won't stay folded up.

install washers 20 baht Easy fix, lack of will power.....

Cosmetics:

The fairings are all there and in one piece, but the original decals have been removed and in general it looks tatty.

New decal pack is 350 baht This would be last thing on the list and TBH if I get the mechanics sorted I maight treat it to a Marquez replica paint job (complete with scrape marks from the contact with Dani's bike).

So to summarize, I hate it and need to make a decision from the following options:

1: Take it off the road, buy a cheap scooter to get about on temporarily, and fully restore the Honda to its original glorious state.

2: Cut my losses, sell it and buy something else.

3: Buy something else decent to use as a daily hack and turn the CBR into a project bike (possible drag style special?)

Any comments, be they serious, helpful, constructive, derogatory, insulting or amusing will be welcomed, considered and possibly discarded.

[Overandout]

You didn't say how many miles were on it, but it does sound quite neglected. Take it to a good Honda bike shop and see what they recommend. Getting a bike to decent condition is not usually a very expensive affair in Thailand. Or, trade it on on something heaftier!

The clocks say 14k kms, the condition screams out 114k.....

[Overandout]

I guess depending on your initial cost but for a replacement you won't get much in the way of a decent bike for under 10,000 baht even if Claire buys old Honda Tenas for 4500!

So even if you spent 10,000 on it you would still have a reasonably decent bike and would always get the 10,000 back.

If 10,000 is a reasonable estimate of outlay then I think it would be worth it. But I'd need to take my time, do it properly and completely and that means buying another bike to get to work on in the mean time.

I just know that when I start taking it apart its going to be riddled with snapped or cross threaded bolts and tiger seal and sawdust type repairs which my OCD character traits won't allow me to ignore !

[A1Str8]

In my opinion you should sell the bike and buy a decent one.

[Overandout]

In my opinion you should sell the bike and buy a decent one.

My head tells me you're right, but my heart tells me that that's the boring way out.

[Shurup]

In my opinion you should sell the bike and buy a decent one.

X2, I wouldn't have bought it in a 1st place...

[Overandout]

In my opinion you should sell the bike and buy a decent one.

X2, I wouldn't have bought it in a 1st place...

Well, there is that, but at the end of the day it was cheap, and I was doing a mate a favour by taking it off his hands when he left (I just didn't appreciate exactly how much of a favour....)

[A1Str8]

If you dont need a really powerful bike and dont want to spend a lot then i suggest buying a second hand Cbr 250r. Those are not expensive now. Or get a used PCX. I am not a fan of scooters but the PCX is actually a very good bike. The Cbr 250r is interchangeable with the ninja 250. The rest sucks.

[ll2]

i have one carb model too rotting in my garden.if you work on it, it s a pretty decent bike but i estimate you ll spend like 20 k on it. if you have problem with cams, maybe more.

the problem is finding a good mech who wants to deal with your bike as working on cbr150 takes time so they prefer to spend their times on easy bikes like waves, scooters etc. i suffer a lot about this.

but it will be thousand times better than a scoot.

so choice is yours. if you like to play with it, just repair it. if you do not have time just sell it and get a cbr250.

good luck.

[KRS1]

Thanks KR, for your constructive information.

In general I don't trust any mechanics to work on my motorbikes and I have always done my own maintenance and repairs (when I lived in the UK I was too poor to pay for good mechanics rates and then I moved to Spain where all the decent mechanics work for race teams and those left in high street garages are dangerous rip off merchants) so I won't be considering taking the bike anywhere for anything other than very specialist repairs such as alternator rewinding and tyre plugging which can't be done at home.

Anyway I comment on your specific comments....

Quote:

So I've been on the road now for a few weeks using a CBR150 carb model that I bought quite cheaply from a colleague who has left Thailand.

Trouble is the bike sucks. I'll list a few of the issues to give you a feel of where I'm at:

Engine:

Sounds like a two stroke with piston slap when warm. Not sure yet if its a cam chain issue, cams themselves or worse....

When revved over about 5k rpm it has a rather pronounced vibration (could be that its just my perception as I've never had a 4 stroke single before, but the engine doesn't feel very happy)

cam chain tensioner needs replacing 650 baht, probably that's it but I'm wondering if I should strip the engine or at least the head to be sure before spnding out on any parts. that bike vibrates, but does much better with the cat removed. don't think I've got a cat, not on a carb engine surely? The air and idle control probably needs some tweaking too. The carb needle should probably be replaced by now also, when it gets worn it snacks back and forth causing vibration do to inconsistent mixture 200 baht. If the carb is like the rest of the bike it probably needs a complete overhaul!

id get the cam chain tensioner first, its cheap and easy to replace, the cat is in the downpipe (trust me on this) you can get a complete carb gasket set from the honda dealer, the vacuum diaghram and needle are extra.

I'm not sure how much power a CBR150 is supposed to make but I'm guessing that mine is way down.

On a positive note, there's no oil leaking out of it (perhaps there's none in there....) and the gears select OK

They arent very strong bikes, but they can be made to be more responsive. With better acceleration with additional top speed Tsukigi down tube 800 baht, reinforced welds fro somchai 200 baht. Sounds good, but I'm a long way off increasing performance at the moment.. what welds do you mean to be reinforced? The ones on the Tsukigi down tube?

The last 3-4 welds close to the end by the muffler need to be reinforced if you use it with the stock muffler, they must be arced, not oxyacetylene. For the muffler the Tsukigi KRK muffler will improve low end-mid, youll lose 5kph off the top though.

Clutch judders while pulling away.

Tighten the clutch cable at the engine, if there is room left for adjustment. Change the oil and lubricate the chain also. I'm honestly at the point of wondering if its even worth doing routine maintenance but I suppose you're right, I should.

bike runs like a dog with a dry chain, fuel mileage goes down too.

If the clutch is about to be completely worn out, you may want to consider getting rid of the bike. 2000ish baht. I'm not against spending money on it, I just can't decide if I want to or not.....

Front end:

Front tyre has a slow puncture, needs inflating once a week.

Fix tire with plug, or get the valve stem checked to make sure the valve is not loose,new valve stem 120 baht. I already took it to a bike shop who just denied it was losing pressure (I think they just couldn't be bothered to look for the leak).

stainless steel valve stems can be tightened, there is a screw underneath, the rubber ones get old and hard and can leak at the seal.

Steering bearings are suspect

Both fork seals are blown and leaking oil down the stanchions

If it knocks when you brake hard or go over bumps, steering head bearings are bad. Big job to change head bearings 700 baht, and no one will want to touch it. ? Steering bearings a big job? I did mine on my RGV in a morning and that included converting an old screwdriver into a suitable prybar to remove the old races without damaging the frame.

you have to replace the bearings on the bottom also.

leaking forks are only a problem if you ride hard, or are extra heavy weight...average rider wouldnt know the difference. I disagree, forks used when all the oil has gone will score an wear the insides of the sliding lowers and will have to be replaced, happened to me on a GPZ600 I bought cheap years ago.

ok, your right - youre not the average rider

Brake seems to be OK though.

Rear end:

Seems to be wobbly, suspect that swing arm bearings/bushes are shot.

Could be the wheel bearings, but its probably an underinflated cheapest possible tire, or there may have been an innertube used that is not the correct size (oem is suppose to be tubeless)..new tire 800 baht size 100/70-17. (irc oem) Tyre presuure is OK, haven't checked the wheel bearings......

Damper doesn't damp, it pogos.

If your frame is black it can be adjusted, if your frame is grey it cannot. New shock 800 baht. It springs back up violently, I doubt adjustment can save it, but I do have a black frame (that could be dirt and grime though...)

Rear brake is squeaky and grabby, probably been used for years with brake shoes with no friction material left on them.

if its squeaky you have brake material, if its grinding you dont. If its grabby its the incorrect mastercylinder. Brake pads 150 baht. See my comment above about routine maintenance....

Electrics:

No lights in the cluster means I can't see how fast (slow) I'm going at night (at least the engine tells me what revs I'm at by the frequency of the vibrations and rattling noises)

Dash light bulbs are probably out, but if not the wiring harness may be unplugged. Bulbs 50 baht. You're probably right but I'm losing the will to invest my time in a bike I may always hate.

When I select main beam, the main and dipped beams come on but at about 1/3 power, like 2 candles in empty bean cans.

Battery is good though and it always starts.

Headlights have always sucked, they run off the alternator, you can improve it a little by using Osram bulbs, but it will eventually melt the harness. Live with the sorry headlights, no way around it, unless you install projectors. Well, at least I'm not in danger of dazzling any oncoming traffic....

Other anciliaries:

The mirrors are replacement chinese crap bolted to the bars instead of the fairing, they wobble around and are next to useless.

put the mirrors in place and drip super glue at the ball joint. 25 baht Bodger! I'm thinking a nice set of brand new mirrors (if I decide to save the mule from the knackers yard)

the glue doesnt make it stay in place permanently, it induces friction so they wont vibrate around...youll still be able to move them around freely.

The red filters for the tail light under the clear persepx cover have fallen off and are rattling around inside the light unit.

take tailight off and reinstall the red lights securing them with glue, its a common fault. 25 baht plus 100 baht labor from somchai. Easy fix, lack of will power.....

Footpeg rubbers are worn through to the metal and droop down.

Get new pegs. Easy fix, lack of will power.....

Passenger footpegs won't stay folded up.

install washers 20 baht Easy fix, lack of will power.....

Cosmetics:

The fairings are all there and in one piece, but the original decals have been removed and in general it looks tatty.

New decal pack is 350 baht This would be last thing on the list and TBH if I get the mechanics sorted I maight treat it to a Marquez replica paint job (complete with scrape marks from the contact with Dani's bike).

original fairings will be close to the price of a paint job.

So to summarize, I hate it and need to make a decision from the following options:

1: Take it off the road, buy a cheap scooter to get about on temporarily, and fully restore the Honda to its original glorious state.

2: Cut my losses, sell it and buy something else.

3: Buy something else decent to use as a daily hack and turn the CBR into a project bike (possible drag style special?)

Any comments, be they serious, helpful, constructive, derogatory, insulting or amusing will be welcomed, considered and possibly discarded.

Sounds like you can get it sorted for less than 5k baht. It doesnt really sound that bad, you just need some initiative...

But if you were ona 600 before

[BSJ]

"so I won't be considering taking the bike anywhere for anything other than very specialist repairs such as alternator rewinding and tyre plugging which can't be done at home."

That's not true!

Get one of these.

[Overandout]

Sounds like you can get it sorted for less than 5k baht. It doesnt really sound that bad, you just need some initiative...

But if you were ona 600 before

The 600R was a desperate buy about 15 years ago!

Before that my first 4 stroke was a GPz 750 Turbo

For the last 10 years I've been on GSXR750s and in between I had an FZ750

I'm not expecting the CBR to live up to any of those!

Oh and the bottom steering bearing on the RGV was easily sorted too:

outer race off, the inner race was cut with a dremmel then gently prized off the stem. Bottom yolk in the freezer for a few hours then the new race driven on with a suitable diameter tube and suitably large hammer.

I can't see it being much harder on the CBR.

[Overandout]

"so I won't be considering taking the bike anywhere for anything other than very specialist repairs such as alternator rewinding and tyre plugging which can't be done at home."

That's not true!

Get one of these.

CropperCapture45.jpg

Plugging from the outside with a kit like that shoud be considered a temporary "get you home" repair only.

Correct plugging is done from the inside with a mushroom plug correctly vulcanized onto the inside of the tyre. I would only trust a professional with this task.

On the other hand, with a CBR 150 it would probably be OK with a bicycle repair.......

[KRS1]

ive driven 10k kilos on an outside plugged Michelin. Was ok.

the plug resembled a mushroom from the inside.

[phitsanulokjohn]

Years ago a friend of mine asked me Imo what bike should he buy?.The cbr 150 or the kawasaki boss 175.This was more than 11 years ago.At that time I had just bought an almost new kawasaki boss with 1800kms on from a bike shop in Pattaya.I was the 2nd owner, the 1st being a Pattaya cop.I absolutely loved this bike. 11years and 50k kms later i still have this bike and still love it to bits.The wife often asks me''who do i love the most her or my boss"I always reply"stop asking me silly questions,you know it's my boss''Apart from consumables it's hardly cost me a penny.Absolutely reliable.

My friend chose the cbr 150 and after 2 months sold it complaining about all manner of problems and saying it made his wrists ache at low speed.

Now i've always been a Honda man.They usually churn out a fine motorcycle and ultra reliable,but very bland.With regards to character, my boss has more character in the little bauble at the end of her clutch lever than any honda motorcycle i've ever owned and that includes a cbr 1000.

[Overandout]

Years ago a friend of mine asked me Imo what bike should he buy?.The cbr 150 or the kawasaki boss 175.This was more than 11 years ago.At that time I had just bought an almost new kawasaki boss with 1800kms on from a bike shop in Pattaya.I was the 2nd owner, the 1st being a Pattaya cop.I absolutely loved this bike. 11years and 50k kms later i still have this bike and still love it to bits.The wife often asks me''who do i love the most her or my boss"I always reply"stop asking me silly questions,you know it's my boss''Apart from consumables it's hardly cost me a penny.Absolutely reliable.

My friend chose the cbr 150 and after 2 months sold it complaining about all manner of problems and saying it made his wrists ache at low speed.

Now i've always been a Honda man.They usually churn out a fine motorcycle and ultra reliable,but very bland.With regards to character, my boss has more character in the little bauble at the end of her clutch lever than any honda motorcycle i've ever owned and that includes a cbr 1000.

Oh, don't worry, I'll never expect the bike to have any character, it is, as you say a Honda.

I have now owned 14 bikes over my riding lifetime and this is the first Honda that I have ever owned (7 Suzukis, 4 Yamahas, 2 Kawasakis previously).

Now I can't blame Honda for the neglect of the previous owners but its true that the bike is uncomfortable.

I'm only 5'7" tall and 60 kgs and my knees bang on the edge of the fairing when going over bumps, its a poor design.

[ll2]

^

That cbr150 has character. It is one of the lightest sport bike around, it is super nimble and best for traffic and can get nearly 20 rwhp with ecu, air filter and a full system. You can install a proarm from honda nsr150 and upside down forks and you get close to the performance cbr250.

Mine was like 110 something - if i dont remember wrong - kg after removing swingarm, rearsets etc.

Also i installed 100 front - 130 rear michelin tires and with yss gas shock with full adjustability and it was going superb.

But cams create problems. You need to get stronger racing cams.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

[Overandout]

^

That cbr150 has character. It is one of the lightest sport bike around, it is super nimble and best for traffic and can get nearly 20 rwhp with ecu, air filter and a full system. You can install a proarm from honda nsr150 and upside down forks and you get close to the performance cbr250.

Mine was like 110 something - if i dont remember wrong - kg after removing swingarm, rearsets etc.

Also i installed 100 front - 130 rear michelin tires and with yss gas shock with full adjustability and it was going superb.

But cams create problems. You need to get stronger racing cams.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

Interesting...

Although I wouldn't call the CBR (at least the carb model) a sports bike, it's styled as a sports bike, that's about as far as it goes.

But I'd love to know more about the racing cams, ECU, full system etc. If I'm going to strip the bike to rebulid it I might as well do something interesting with it.

In fact, on the way back from lunch I saw a CBR like mine parked up with wire spoked wheels, after-market shock, big bore kit (based on the colour of the barrel), rearsets, cut down foam seat, full system.... made mine look like crap.... The owner was standing there and I was with a Thai friend so we tried asking where he had bought his parts from but he just replied "everywhere"... I was hoping for some more specific indications...

So, anyone know where to go in Bangkok for tuning parts? (I mean proper tuning, like ECUS and cams, not fluorescent lights and anodised levers).

[KRS1]

I had an API cdi, it removes the rev limit and helps a lot to keep the revs up when shifting, this bike can go over 14k rpm...cost around 900-1200 baht, there are also the programmable ones.

Cams come in 3 stages, but youd have to find a shop that specializes in this engine, the valve shims have to set just right.

The best way to increase performance with this bike is to increase the stroke, which will also require thicker head gaskets which are usually made from copper, after stroking it out wheelies off the line is just a matter of a flick of the wrist.

Heres a list of things that Ive done to my old bikes:

bike 1

1) NGK CR9EGP needle type spark plug, stronger spark at high rpm's

2) Thicker spark plug wire, the oem wire is literally only a few strands, about half as thick as a rubber band.

3) API cdi

4) Tsukigi downpipe and muffler

5) 1 centimeter cut off of airbox intake snorkel, center wall in snorkel removed

6) velocity stack at carb mouth inside air box

7) air injection valve and vacuum sealed and removed

8) air filter element removed, replaced with element similar to ninja 250 porous layer

speedo indicated 152-3 kph

bike 2

1) stroked crank

2) bore up (+ stroke =177-180cc)

3) ported, smoothed out intake runners

4) smoothed exhaust ports

5) triple grind valve seats

6) stage 2 cams

7) forged lightweight piston

8) modified stock muffler (dont modify into straight tube, doesnt run efficiently through all powerbands)

speedo indicated 165 kph ...1/4 mile time 14.6 seconds, i think stock time was around 18.3 seconds

If i would have combined elements from both bikes, it would have been much faster.

[Nickymaster]

^

That cbr150 has character. It is one of the lightest sport bike around, it is super nimble and best for traffic and can get nearly 20 rwhp with ecu, air filter and a full system. You can install a proarm from honda nsr150 and upside down forks and you get close to the performance cbr250.

Mine was like 110 something - if i dont remember wrong - kg after removing swingarm, rearsets etc.

Also i installed 100 front - 130 rear michelin tires and with yss gas shock with full adjustability and it was going superb.

But cams create problems. You need to get stronger racing cams.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

Interesting...

Although I wouldn't call the CBR (at least the carb model) a sports bike, it's styled as a sports bike, that's about as far as it goes.

But I'd love to know more about the racing cams, ECU, full system etc. If I'm going to strip the bike to rebulid it I might as well do something interesting with it.

In fact, on the way back from lunch I saw a CBR like mine parked up with wire spoked wheels, after-market shock, big bore kit (based on the colour of the barrel), rearsets, cut down foam seat, full system.... made mine look like crap.... The owner was standing there and I was with a Thai friend so we tried asking where he had bought his parts from but he just replied "everywhere"... I was hoping for some more specific indications...

So, anyone know where to go in Bangkok for tuning parts? (I mean proper tuning, like ECUS and cams, not fluorescent lights and anodised levers).

If you are going to spend time and money on the 150, why not sell it and find a good (priced) second hand CBR 250? At least it feels more like a big bike. If you enjoy rebuilding, stick with the 150. If you enjoy riding, go for a 250.

(I know you don't like to go the easy way but how about going the smart way?)

[ll2]

Here is my cbr150 on its most glorious days. As You can see and as krs stated, you can do lots on this bike.

Actually, i am ok to sell the parts on it as i dont think so i ll rebuild mine. If you are interestes op, pm me.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

[Overandout]

Here is my cbr150 on its most glorious days. As You can see and as krs stated, you can do lots on this bike.

Actually, i am ok to sell the parts on it as i dont think so i ll rebuild mine. If you are interestes op, pm me.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

You will most certainly get a PM from me!

Don't let those parts go to anyone else!!

[Overandout]

^

That cbr150 has character. It is one of the lightest sport bike around, it is super nimble and best for traffic and can get nearly 20 rwhp with ecu, air filter and a full system. You can install a proarm from honda nsr150 and upside down forks and you get close to the performance cbr250.

Mine was like 110 something - if i dont remember wrong - kg after removing swingarm, rearsets etc.

Also i installed 100 front - 130 rear michelin tires and with yss gas shock with full adjustability and it was going superb.

But cams create problems. You need to get stronger racing cams.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

Interesting...

Although I wouldn't call the CBR (at least the carb model) a sports bike, it's styled as a sports bike, that's about as far as it goes.

But I'd love to know more about the racing cams, ECU, full system etc. If I'm going to strip the bike to rebulid it I might as well do something interesting with it.

In fact, on the way back from lunch I saw a CBR like mine parked up with wire spoked wheels, after-market shock, big bore kit (based on the colour of the barrel), rearsets, cut down foam seat, full system.... made mine look like crap.... The owner was standing there and I was with a Thai friend so we tried asking where he had bought his parts from but he just replied "everywhere"... I was hoping for some more specific indications...

So, anyone know where to go in Bangkok for tuning parts? (I mean proper tuning, like ECUS and cams, not fluorescent lights and anodised levers).

If you are going to spend time and money on the 150, why not sell it and find a good (priced) second hand CBR 250? At least it feels more like a big bike. If you enjoy rebuilding, stick with the 150. If you enjoy riding, go for a 250.

(I know you don't like to go the easy way but how about going the smart way?)

You're right, I don't like the "easy way", and also I can't think of anything worse than having an ever bigger "underpowered" bike.

I actually quite like the idea of having a small bike again. Despite having had "big bikes" for 15 years, I used to race in the British 50cc Road Racing championship (I even have some trophies!) and although the CBR will never be like a fully polished and ported two stroke, the nimble handling and light weight has its nice side.

Also, I like riding, but since I have small children I don't get much time to get out and ride much, that's why I like doing projects, it keeps me at home, my 5 year old can help do some stuff and he likes it and learns.

The BMW car in my avatar pic was stolen and almost destroyed by joyriders in Spain, I spent 2 years rebuilding the top end of the engine, cooling system, brakes, suspension, all the interior, lots of the electrics, some of the transmission and some cosmetic work, just taking my time, buying the parts and tools I needed as I went. Now its a great car and I really enjoyed the work.

[T_Dog]

Even stock, the CBR150 is one of those bikes that keep going. I have had a lot of motorcycles but my 2005 -150 has been the most reliable and probably the most fun. We have taken it to hill tribe villages outside of Mae Salong that were in deep canyons served only by muddy single track trails.... places you would never take a heavy street bike to. Been all over Northern Thailand with it two-up. The only strange problem I've had with the bike is dropping a needle valve into the engine. The retainer groove wears out due to the vibration and it departs. I was lucky in that the metal pieces somehow found a way out without an engine tear down. That was 30,000 km ago and it is still going as strong as ever. Next bike is going to have two cylinders though as the vibration does get old!

[KRS1]

If you can do it , id get a cbr 250...ive had a cbr 600, gsxr750 and an sv650...but the cbr 250 is my favorite bike so far for riding in the mountains, except for some minor issues....really light and flickable, and it can hang with big heavy liter bikes in tight twisting curves, and makes an excellent traffic cutter. Ive outgrown the need for large displacement, because i prefer to ride curves more than straight lines. The ergonomics are sooo much more comfortable than the 150 also.

BUT, there is just something cool about having a modified 150 that takes people by surprise.

[Overandout]

I have been convinced.

I will have some fun doing up the CBR and at least making it roadworthy/saleworthy.

I will, along the way, try to make it a bit more interesting as far as performance and aesthetics are concerned.

If after that I sell it, all be it at a loss then I won't cry about it, It's niot like I can blow a fortune on it.

My next thread will either be about the first steps of The Project, or a plea for a cheapo bike to get to work on because the CBR is in bits !

Thanks to all for the comments, they have all really helped.