9 Days In A Thai Temple.......

[theblether]

So off I went to the Temple as promised, giving you all peace from my meanderings. I took a Songthaew to Warorot Market then headed on another Songthaew to a place called Mae Taen. I was disappointed to hear that there was no ST service from there to Chiang Dao so I had to wait on a bus. The bus duly arrived 10 minutes later and off we went.

I picked up another ST at Chiang Dao and we started to head for Wat Tam Muang Ngat, about 45 kilometers into the National Park. I enjoy traveling by ST more than by bus as I think you get to see more of Thailand. The further out you go the more you see it's a vital link between the communities. The drivers are constantly calling each other to see where there respective passengers are heading, and meeting each other to swap passengers. At one point we had about 20 people in my ST, including a couple of monks, some hill tribe people and others. You'd see people standing by the road flagging down the ST and giving the driver a parcel to deliver. In that way they work as a local delivery service as well, great to see.

Anyway I got to the village where the Wat I was aiming for was based and got out. I knew there was a shop there that sold alarm clocks and I'd be needing that for the early start. When I went in I noticed they also sold massive loudspeakers, I was to find out why later. I decided to change venues and head for Wat Tam Mua instead, that's a more intense meditation programme and I thought if I'm going to do this at all, do the challenging one. I went in to a little roadside cafe and ordered up my last meal, a quite delicious pork soup. Communication became an instant problem as the lady in the cafe was not Thai, but Thai Yai. She couldn't speak Thai. After a lot of gesticulating it turned out that there wouldn't be any more Songthaews that day. A lady in the cafe ran home, and got her son to come pick me up in his car. Very kind of her, and the young man.

They were determined to help as they said the Wat Tam Mua was further than I realized. When I got there I was given an instant welcome and allocated a private room. That sounds posh but it was basic. Part of the experience is to know what it's like to have nothing, so I was to lie on a thin mat on the floor. That would present a challenge on it's on. No blankets were provided either so I had to rely on the thin one I brought. I got changed into the Whites you need to wear as a devotee and headed into the cave.

There's three chambers within the cave, and when I first went in I was alone. The Meditative practice started at 6.00pm, I decided to sit through it and that was a mistake. I found myself in agony after sitting for the best part of three hours. One of the devotees meditating.....

It was pitch black outside, the half moon was on it's way and I knew it would be a cold night as the sky was so clear and beautiful. So being a bad boy I borrowed three of the rubber mats from the temple so I wouldn't get frozen sleeping on a tiled floor. Here's my private room......

I was right, it was freezing that night. The rubber mats did make a difference in regards to the tiles but the temp plummeted outside. I was glad to get up for the first Meditative practice of the day. That was at 4.00 am.

The schedule was 4.00am, 2 hours, 8.00am, 2 hours, 1.00pm, 2 hours and 6.00pm, 2 hours. Breakfast was served at 6.00am, and lunch at 11.00. I decided to eat only once a day and had lunch only. I've got to say the food was universally excellent. Every day there would be a combination of vegetarian food and some type of meat based dishes. A lot of the food was Hill Tribe variety, based upon the cooking skills of the local Lisu and Thai Yai ladies. Pick of the bunch was a Rice and Onion based soup, and superb Larb Blah. Watermelon was usually available along with bananas, pineapple, and oranges depending on the day.

Maybe it was the fact that I was eating once a day that made the food so appealing, and I found that eating once a day was easy. That was the first lesson learned for me. On the second day I got into conversation with a Nun I had met before. Cee Yim is Shan Burmese and used to work on humanitarian issues in Shan State. She was a manager with a lot of responsibility, and she said the job was so difficult as she couldn't get people to stop fighting. She had come to visit Luang Pah, the Head Monk at this temple, and he had answered a lot of questions that she had. Luang Pah asked her of she would like to be his student, she accepted, went home, quit her job, told her parents and returned to the Temple. This is Luang Pah.

Luang Pah is 95 years of age. he's been in the Monkhood since he was 40. He was born in Shan State and had a family before entering the Monkhood. His daughter runs the canteen at the Temple and lives there with her husband and kids. I noticed the whole family visiting Luang Pah a few times. At the age of 81 Luang Pah realized that the Sannathi teachings were incorrect, and went a different direction teaching Annatha as the way to Enlightenment.

*Note, for the experienced and practicing Buddhists among you, I'm writing this as I understood it, I may be incorrect. I'm no expert in this field.

He has written several books and still writes to this day. He founded this Temple 6 years ago, and has quickly built up a following. As a man, he's always ready for a laugh, and always on the go. I would see him out wandering the Temple grounds at 4.00 in the morning, before a day of talking to devotees and receiving visitors would begin. He's got a great love of cats and keeps a pet dwarf deer, and he loves playing with the deer. You would see him go into the compound and wrestle with the deer, the deer loving the attention. He makes sure that all the animals are well fed, the kitchen is instructed that the cats have to be fed fish daily, and the deer has to get the best of fruit. This is a man that understands that we are all interconnected and how you treat others, human and animal, reflects upon you. Here's on of his cats guarding the Temple.......

and his pet deer

I won't go into the teachings of Annatha, it's highly complex and I don't understand it yet. I may go to the Buddhist forum on that issue to see what the experts have to say. The next post deals with Temple life.

[soi41]

As you know, sometimes I am not your biggest fan!!

But credit where credit is due.

A very enjoyable and interesting read.

Well done Sir!

[theblether]

I found the first three days to be tough. One of the other devotees noticed that I didn't have blankets and brought me some from the Temple store, I didn't know they were available. That sorted out the cold issue. I had an Airasia neck support that acted as a great back pillow so I was thankful for that. My bones were creaking with lying on the floor, though on the bright side I wasn't struggling with hunger issues. I was struggling with a caffeine detox headache though, I'd been drinking too much coffee every day and now it was hurting my head as the caffeine left my system.

I had a plastic garden chair to sit on, and to be honest I wasn't getting a grip of the Meditation at all. I was listening to what I was being told but putting it into practice was hard. I was delighted with achieving the discipline required though. I think there were 33 sessions available to me and I attended all but one. There was one morning when my bed was just too comfy ( bizarrely ) and I couldn't raise myself. Other times I felt I was getting somewhere with the Meditation, then something would disturb me. People used to wander in to the Temple and use flash photography. That certainly put me off. Luang Pah though said this was a question of the conscious mind being to active. Must do better. The Temple is quite sparse, not the massive array of figures you see in many Temples.......this is Buddha as a Prince before leaving the Palace in search of Enlightenment

I had seen this figure hundreds of times but never understood it's meaning......

The sleeping figure is Buddhas wife. On the night he left the Palace a maid came to tell him that his wife had given birth to his son. He went to see the boy and looked in his crib, but didn't pick him up. His wife was sleeping and he feared alarming her. He knew that he had to leave, and the wrench of leaving his wife and new born son was a difficult time in his life. The statue of his sleeping wife denotes a recognition of this. Buddha had to give up attachment to achieve Enlightenment, this was the first step on the journey.

* If any practicing Buddhists would like to elaborate I'd appreciate the education.

This figure is Buddha after Enlightenment

I did mention to Cee Yim that I found the amount of Buddhist images to be confusing, she pointed out that each figure has a different meaning depending on the hand posture. I believe there are 20 different postures. For the untrained eye like me it's hard to read. This figure is understandable though.......

This denotes after Enlightenment, Buddha was in deep Meditation when a flood began to submerge him. A giant snake saw the risk and coiled itself around Buddha and lifted him above the water. The snake held it's head above him to give him shelter from the rain.

[arthurwait]

You may want to clarify what ST stands for.

[krisb]

I always thought the lying down buddha was him having a sleep cause he was tired on that day! There you go, I never knew what any of the different postures meant.

[transam]

Think the head guy was listening to ZZ Top tb. ......................

Joking aside, you did well matey. .....10 out of 10, I couldn't do it.

Did your experience do anything for you now you are back in our world ?

[theblether]

9 days in the Temple is not easy. I found it very uncomfortable having to sit for that length of time. I found it hard to concentrate. I found it extremely hard to stop my mind wandering. The Nun Cee Yim pointed out that all this was part of the process. There were times when I was sat on that chair asking myself why am I doing this, other times when I had a few minutes of "getting it". There were times when I thought I was being disrespectful by sitting there with my mind wandering so much. There were times when I left early as I felt that was the case. Cee Yim pointed out that it's well nigh impossible to control the conscious mind. It's always coming up with some new thought to disturb you. Another TV member explained something similar to me before I went and now I was starting to understand. your mind is always ready to play tricks on you.

I was often jealous of the other devotees who seemed to be able to sit at peace. looking so tranquil.

Something that I could not achieve. Cee Yim pointed out that this visit was only the first step. I accept that.

The other devotees were curious as to why I had picked this Temple. There were a few good English speakers and they would always seek me out at Lunch time.

Men and women live in separate quarters, the laies would take their chance to talk to me at Lunch and ask me why I had chosen this Temple, how I had found out about it, etc. I was particularly touvched one day when a man with perfect English talked to me and held me by the shoulder saying, "I'm so glad to see you here".

There were plenty of others that couldn't talk English, including people from Lisu, Thai Yai and the Thai community. They would often ask through translators, and the fact that there was a farang at the Temple was worthy of note for them. Even if they couldn't talk to me, by action they were invariably kind to me, simple things such as running to get me a torch, or wandering over and giving me a glass of water. Actions speak louder than words a lot of the time.

I noticed a minibus pull in to the car park and a party of four got out. They were touring the area dropping off donations of Robes, medical supplies and other things to the local Temple. One lady in the party was American I believe. They went to see Luang Pah and I assisted with carrying some of the donations and watched on.......

If there was something interesting happening, you can be sure the cats will be there........curious little things. Luang Pah receiving the visitors...........

Cee Yim showing the Robes that have been donated........

It's dinner time and the cats are wanting in on the action.........

The black cat is trying the old distract then blag technique. Luang Pah is 95, he's seen it all before, he won't fall for that one.

On November 14th Luang Pah will be leaving on a three month tour of Shan State. He's been invited to visit 10 Temples and to open Meditation centres teaching Annatha. He'll be moving along the whole length of the state distributing books, blankets and medical supplies as he goes along. he did a similar tour last year, I think it's a big ask of a 95 year old, I can see that he thinks it will be easy for him. I mentioned I might come along, he said there's no way you'll fit in the car, you better fly.

Cheek.

They will be in Northern Shan state in January, I'd like to go but hmmm, I'll see what happens.

[theblether]

Some general photos of the Temple......

[theblether]

Finally, if you remember I mentioned the loudspeakers in the shop. You would think that being in the countryside was tranquil. There was a Lisu village across the road and they love to make noise. Some days there would be this repetitive Lisu music on all day, a weird short note construction. Last Saturday they decided to have a party and the noise was deafening. On the last photo posted you can see the cliff that lies above the cave, I reckon it's 100 feet high. Just perfect for catching all the sound waves and reflecting them back. A noise nightmare by echo.

I mentioned it to Cee Yim, and she said you should hear it in January. Day and night they have a party, karaoke, the whole lot for a month. After a week she said you tune out. The first week though is a nightmare. "Oh, so that's why you are going to Shan State for three months through January huh?". There was no way she was going to admit to that, but a knowing smile at least said she was happy to be in Shan and not here in January.

The other noise point of note. How many cockerels does a village of 200 hundred need? I think they've got one each. 3.15am and they've started already, the noise they make is unbelievable. In my next life I'm coming back as a highly trained black soi dog. I'll stealthily move from village to village doing in these noisy irritants and disappear into the night. I used to have a bit of sympathy with chickens. I mean they can't help tasting like chicken and being so delicious. However I've now decided that the fact they are so noisy means they deserve to be eaten. Sympathy has all gone.

Right, the Temple. It was hard work. I would go back though, as I did learn a lot. If you are thinking about doing a visit you nee to know that it is tough. I know from others that many farangs go in to the Temples and can't hack it. I don't blame them. It can be exhausting, and certainly challenging. After a while though you fall in to a beat and the routine of the day becomes enjoyable. Get over the first three days and you are in with a chance. It's worth the effort.

I am not a Buddhist. I don't expect to ever be a Buddhist, but in this Temple it doesn't matter. Respect is the key. Be respectful and prepared to learn and the people here will be happy to help you in every way. I guess that's the same in many Temples. I am prepared to listen to and to understand the teachings of Buddha. The other day Cee Yim translated some of the teachings and asked me to help out. Reading the first draft I could see a lot of wisdom. So I am prepared to learn.

That's a start and the best I can do..

.

Edited October 19, 2013 by theblether

[theblether]

Think the head guy was listening to ZZ Top tb. ......................

Joking aside, you did well matey. .....10 out of 10, I couldn't do it.

Did your experience do anything for you now you are back in our world ?

Well I would hope that some of the things I was told would sink in. I think that's the challenge. let's see if it makes a difference.

[CharlieH]

Welcome back mate!

Good to know you seemed to have enjoyed your "time out", as others have said, all credit to you for trying as its not something I could focus on for that length of time. I find it very interesting though and look forward to reading more about your trip and experiences.

[transam]

Think the head guy was listening to ZZ Top tb. ......................

Joking aside, you did well matey. .....10 out of 10, I couldn't do it.

Did your experience do anything for you now you are back in our world ?

Well I would hope that some of the things I was told would sink in. I think that's the challenge. let's see if it makes a difference.

As I know you personally, I think you were born with a good attitude to life and others in general. Can you improve on that. Or are you looking for something ?

[harrry]

A nice report. Good to hear that you found a place that you seems to be a good one for what you want.

[theblether]

Think the head guy was listening to ZZ Top tb. ......................

Joking aside, you did well matey. .....10 out of 10, I couldn't do it.

Did your experience do anything for you now you are back in our world ?

Well I would hope that some of the things I was told would sink in. I think that's the challenge. let's see if it makes a difference.

As I know you personally, I think you were born with a good attitude to life and others in general. Can you improve on that. Or are you looking for something ?

I'm looking for improvement to my attitude. I'm an information magnet and that's fine, I need to go a bit deeper and try to cut out the unimportant BS from my life, and to learn from how others love their lives. Some of the stuff I learned was compelling, it really made me think.

If I can take on board what I was taught then it will stand me in good stead in the longer term. I hope to do so.

[transam]

Think the head guy was listening to ZZ Top tb. ......................

Joking aside, you did well matey. .....10 out of 10, I couldn't do it.

Did your experience do anything for you now you are back in our world ?

Well I would hope that some of the things I was told would sink in. I think that's the challenge. let's see if it makes a difference.

As I know you personally, I think you were born with a good attitude to life and others in general. Can you improve on that. Or are you looking for something ?

I'm looking for improvement to my attitude. I'm an information magnet and that's fine, I need to go a bit deeper and try to cut out the unimportant BS from my life, and to learn from how others love their lives. Some of the stuff I learned was compelling, it really made me think.

If I can take on board what I was taught then it will stand me in good stead in the longer term. I hope to do so.

There is a farang Temple in Ubon. When I see you next I will take you there. I went and had a chat with a USA monk, nice guy. He was an ambulance driver/medic in USA, he got fed up, had enough of picking up folk off the floor with bullet holes.

[Dancealot]

I dont have the discipline to do something like this.

Respect, theblether.

[krisb]

I like that pic of the monk kneeling with hands together in front of buddha. Lovely pic!

I've always found temples to be very tranquil and peaceful places. Lovely places to visit and some of them quite fascinating.

Another neat trip report mate, thanks! Where in the worlds the next report coming from I wonder??

[transam]

I like that pic of the monk kneeling with hands together in front of buddha. Lovely pic!

I've always found temples to be very tranquil and peaceful places. Lovely places to visit and some of them quite fascinating.

Another neat trip report mate, thanks! Where in the worlds the next report coming from I wonder??

Trans music tastes. ..............................

[JLCrab]

I lived for 6 years literally overlooking a Wat with the oft times 4 AM drum incantation ... maybe enough for a lifetime for me.The photo is the view from my balcony.

[farang000999]

this thread makes up for all those long rambling posts you usually make.

[GirlDrinkDrunk]

I need to go a bit deeper and try to cut out the unimportant BS from my life,

why not start with thaivisa?

[transam]

I need to go a bit deeper and try to cut out the unimportant BS from my life,

why not start with thaivisa?

Wrong answer.

[CharlieH]

I need to go a bit deeper and try to cut out the unimportant BS from my life,

why not start with thaivisa?

TV isnt the problem, just some of the users/individuals who use it !

[Rsquared]

Thanks again for sharing. Glad to hear you have survived all the other dramas you've encountered this trip.

You mentioned in another thread, one of your many ambitions is to write books.....

....will they be non-fiction tales of your travels, or fiction intertwined with your adventures?

Either way, will look forward to reading them my friend.

Cheers.

[Richie23]

Great post, an enjoyable read. Thank you for sharing your experience.

[fabianfred]

The Buddha image in the lying posture denotes the posture he was in when he died.... Called the 'lion posture'. Some monks keep the most difficult rule of only sleeping in this posture or sitting in meditation... The Buddha's son did this as a novice.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

[Bluetongue]

Yes all credit to you for actually doing it. I've seen lots of people doing it and it works for them. I've contemplated it but wonder whether the agony of sitting all those hours in meditation with bad back knees and all would be made up by the ecstasy of some sort of enlightenment. My answer is no in all truth but the mystery sometimes still beckons. I reckon the way you have gone about it more as a mission of inquiry than finding something to believe in is a good way to go. I too like the peace of some of the temples as one other pointed out. Anyway I'm glad you reported back in.

[theblether]

Thanks again for sharing. Glad to hear you have survived all the other dramas you've encountered this trip.

You mentioned in another thread, one of your many ambitions is to write books.....

....will they be non-fiction tales of your travels, or fiction intertwined with your adventures?

Either way, will look forward to reading them my friend.

Cheers.

I have a series of non fiction books almost ready for publication. They will be followed by a series of children's stories based upon the animals that live in a Temple and they will be published in December. I plan to write an extensive fiction series next year, while constantly returning to the non fiction books in particular and adding to them.

The reason I've been in Thailand for so long is that I've being interviewing people from all walks of life in connection with the non fiction books. These interviews will form the basis of some of the non fiction books. I could have done without the motorcycle crash, that really held me back.

I have a couple of interviews I need to do before I fly, one with a very special lady that makes a difference in people's lives every day. Some of the people I need to talk to have been unavailable on this trip so I'll get them next time. Many of the people I have spoken too have fascinating stories. What we take for granted, they dream of. Unfortunately a lot of ha brutal experiences, this country takes no prisoners at times.

This country is a truly interesting and compelling place.

[theblether]

Yes all credit to you for actually doing it. I've seen lots of people doing it and it works for them. I've contemplated it but wonder whether the agony of sitting all those hours in meditation with bad back knees and all would be made up by the ecstasy of some sort of enlightenment. My answer is no in all truth but the mystery sometimes still beckons. I reckon the way you have gone about it more as a mission of inquiry than finding something to believe in is a good way to go. I too like the peace of some of the temples as one other pointed out. Anyway I'm glad you reported back in.

A mission of inquiry is exactly right. I'm not a Buddhist and never intend to be, but who knows the future. I did know that I had to do this trip, I knew it would be a challenge and I put back my flight for three weeks so that I would be fit and ready to complete it.

A lot of people have contemplated entering a Temple for a few days. My Thai friends told me that the first three days are the worst, the next couple you settle down, and by the end you feel elated. In my case by the end I felt educated, not elated. This temple is known for being particularly tough, that's why I went. Other temples would be far easier.

Anyone contemplating doing this should ask around first and see what the locals say. Go have a look, and at the facilities, and ask of you can enter for a few days. I reckon a three day trip is enough the first time round. If you can handle that, then think about going longer. It is physically draining. Sleeping on a floor takes it out of you. Being in an alien environment takes it out of you too, simple things become problems. The eating regime can be tough for some too.

I say don't over promise, don't put yourself under pressure. It's a big learning curve.

[LazyYogi]

Thanks for sharing your experience.

As someone else noted, the statue in the sleeping posture is indeed the Buddha, not his wife.

The Buddha always slept on his right side and also passed away in this position, which is why it is depicted so often.