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Posted

Just after some recommendations on fast (low light) M mount lenses, 35 to 50mm range and adaptors to suit a Fuji XE1. Have been thinking of Zeiss and Voigtlander.

I realize these will have a focal length approximately 50 to 75 mm on the cropped sensor (I eventually want to get a FF camera).

The reason I ask is that “up until recently” I have never really been that happy with the XE1; colors are un-natural, saturated and bokeh looks smeared in close up (Fuji 18-55 lens).

Then last week I started playing with the XE1 with a Novoflex Nikon to Fuji adaptor and Nikon DX 35m f1.8 lens. Much to my surprise I really enjoyed the manual focus and setups,

but more importantly the Nikon lens is better than the Fuji lens (much more natural colors). The trouble with this setup I have no idea of the aperture, as the aperture ring on the

adaptor is not marked, plus the IQ falls off dramatically if I try to open up the aperture for shallow depth of field.

Hence why I am looking for good manual lenses. If any one has experience of or can recommend M mount lenses to suit, I would appreciate it.

As an example I have attached 2 photos. Both are at the same settings, WB on auto.

The first is the Nikon lens and adaptor. - The colors are true to life.

The second is the Fuji lens. - As you can see, a big difference.

P.S. The haze is the background is smoke, there are a few fires in the area.

post-123411-0-84810300-1384126123_thumb.

post-123411-0-96741100-1384126187_thumb.

Posted

I am a very inexperienced novice at photography, but I have purchased a DSLR camera. I was not aware that a lens could affect color. What do I need to watch for when I purchase a lens?

Sent from my iPad using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

Posted

Hi Sealbash

I am not that experienced with different makes of lenses, but do know they can have their own characteristics. I also have a Nikon D5100 (entry level DSLR), which I use for nature shots

(too big for a walk round camera) and the colors with Nikon lenses is fine.

The Fuji is known for its rich colors (to me saturated) and creamy appearance. I thought it was the camera itself and was very surprised at the difference the lens made. I could probably

change the colors by the White Balance (WB) adjustment, but it would be a pain to adjust it all the time. As a side note, I tried the Nikon lens at night and again was better than the Fuji lens.

I could leave the WB and auto with the Nikon, but the Fuji lens I have to manually adjust the WB.

Hopefully some of the other members can explain it better than I.

Posted (edited)

@Bill

I bought my X-E1 specifically to use my M mount lenses. I have a Leica M film body and am still on the fence re: the Leica digital M's. The Fuji with it's superb M adaptor is a very good compromise.

The Zeiss 25mm f2.8 ZM is pretty much my "go for" lens, and usually accompanied with a Zeiss 35mm f2.8 ZM. Both extremely sharp throughout with the renowned Zeiss colour and contrast and bokeh, especially the 35mm. Longer lenses are a Leica 50mm Summilux and a Leica 75mm Summilux. No need to endorse these lenses.

I also use the Fuji 18-55mm. Frankly, I find this lens amazing. The general consensus is it's one of the finest zooms around and I would agree.

You don't say whether you shoot RAW or jpeg or which software you use. For myself I never shoot jpeg. I process my RAW fles in Capture One Pro v7 and would easily equate them to the files from my Canon 5D MK2 which again I shoot with Zeiss lenses.

WB is never an issue. I have various custom settings in camera that I use and are calibrated to most of the scenarios I encounter. Perhaps you could look at the custom settings for your own use. In setting up I shoot a scene in custom mode, tweak the image to taste and save it as a custom set. I.e. indoors, low light, green fields, blue skies and dominant red. All these situations cause problems with digital files and adjusting "in camera" is an option.

For saturation I reduce significantly and pull back the colours by using the the vibrance control. This is an "intelligent" tool in that it only increases saturation where it deems the area is flat. Much preferable than bloating the whole image.

Finally, I zero all the in camera settings relating to colour, sharpness, contrast etc etc and set up the review as a Negative standard view which I find relates better.

Hope this helps

Edited by fimgirl
Posted

Voigtlander do some mental lenses. The 180mm APO Lanthar f/4 is special. Most of their Nokton's are pretty intense too.

FracturedRabbit will be the best guide on Voigtlander's.

Posted

Voigtlander do some mental lenses. The 180mm APO Lanthar f/4 is special. Most of their Nokton's are pretty intense too.

FracturedRabbit will be the best guide on Voigtlander's.

Not really, I only have one, the 25mm F0.95. But my advice would be: they are good. Buy many. Tell them Rabbit sent you.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thank you everyone for your replies.

fimgirl, I really appreciate the time you took to reply and I am a fan of your work. At the moment I shoot jpeg (my Nikon I shoot raw). I use Capture NX2 for PP, but this cannot open raf files. I do have Lightroom 4.4, but I am not a fan of this software. I am trying at the moment to download a trial of Capture One V7, but the servers are so slow, I might have to try again tomorrow. I see from your explanation that I have some work ahead off me.

I looked up some reviews on the 25 and 35mm f/2.8 lenses you mentioned, and they receive glowing reports. One question if I might, are these lenses fast enough for low light such as bands in clubs etc? I can shoot at 1/30 sec, can go lower if I brace myself, although this will not stop motion blur. These sound like just what I am looking for.

I will be in Bangkok soon (in Australia at the moment) and would like to know if there is a reputable Zeiss retailer there.

Again thank you for your replies

Posted (edited)

@Bill Might I suggest that your aforementioned issues stem form shooting jpegs. The X-trans RAW files contain far more detail and a significant IQ advantage.

You may also try Iridient Raw developer for the X-trans files. Not particularly intuitive but nevertheless a very good RAW developer. But, Capture is definitely the way to go.

The Zeiss lenses at f2.8 may be too slow for low light and bands in clubs etc. I didn't want to complicate issues in my earlier post but I also have a couple of Voigtlander M mount lenses that I employ for such work. I use the Nokton 35mm F1.4 in both MC and SC variety, the later being my preference if I intend a B+W finished file as the rendition is smoother and the tonal range more in keeping with monotone. These lenses are very good value and can be obtained from AV Camera Bangkok. Caveat is wide open the edges are indifferent (read crap). Conversely, in low light this rarely becomes an issue. Stop down for outside work and they are very good. Not Zeiss or Leica IQ, but very good for the money.

I have no hesitation in shooting the X-E1 at 3200 ISO, and combined with fast glass I can often employ 1/250th shutter speed. It's rare indeed that I need 1/30th.

Edited by fimgirl
Posted

X-Trans rules!!!

Especially for low light high ISO low noise.

I wonder if we'll ever see a 35mm equivalent X-Trans? Massive awesomeness.

  • 1 month later...

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