Yoshimura TRC - Versys

[Polanskiman]

Hello,

Just purchased a Yoshimura TRC slip on. Planning on installing it on my Versys (2012). I might install the low volume insert so not to be too obnoxious.

I've read here and there that in order to limit or completely eliminate poping/backfiring I might have to seal off the pair valves and perhaps even adjust the main throttle sensor.

Any recommandations from those you have had this muffler on a Versys?

Thanks

[Polanskiman]

No one? I must be an early adopter...nahh... I don't believe that!

[ll2]

well, my aftermarket pipe also pops and backfires and i like it that way

it is not harmful to your bike so i think going through valves and sensors is too much.

[Polanskiman]

Thanks II2.

I don't really mind the noise to be honest (if it's not too often though), but it is actually harmful to some extent to the muffler. Backfiring is a sign of the mix being too lean. The muffler might get too hot and also discolour prematurely.

For the pair valves I don't believe it's a big deal to seal them. For the sensor it's even easier. it's just a screw you need to turn a few millimetres counterclockwise. Really not a big deal.

[Hili]

Most efficient to optimize the bike with a aftermarket system is always with ecu tuning neither by reflashing or addition unit like power commander. But its really to optimize it only you are still fine without that. Depend how far you want to go and how much you want to spent

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[Polanskiman]

Most efficient to optimize the bike with a aftermarket system is always with ecu tuning neither by reflashing or addition unit like power commander. But its really to optimize it only you are still fine without that. Depend how far you want to go and how much you want to spent

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Thanks Hili.

I presume you meant "either".

Yoshi states that there is no need for a power commander or ECU tuning device and anyways I don't have anymore money to spend on these rather expensive little units which I am not convinced about their real benefit unless you plan on racing, which is not my case.

[Polanskiman]

By the way I am looking for some low strength loctite for the for screw that holds the low vol insert. Anyone care to advice where I can find some?

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[Hili]

By the way I am looking for some low strength loctite for the for screw that holds the low vol insert. Anyone care to advice where I can find some?

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Try locbond

http://www.locbond.co.th/

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[meechai]

Actually your stock muffler has some popping on decelleration too but it is so baffled you
do not hear it. With just a slip on it should be minimal to none existent
because you still have your catalytic converter in the front section of your headers.
So have not reduced restriction as much
( I am assuming this as I have no direct experience with a Versys but most
Kawasakis have it near the header collection point )

Anytime you increase exhaust flow ( less restriction ) or even increase intake
you will have more of this popping. As Hili said a ecu map update is most effective in correcting
but will not eliminate all of it. Yes not cheap & not 100% effective at eliminating popping because it is trying to

optimize your engines capabilities. But it is best at adjusting your
engine management to optimize what you actually have intake & exhaust wise.
You can actually also minimize it yourself thru driving habits too.
If you let the throttle close completely on deceleration instead of maintaining a slight open throttle
as most of us tend to do it will hardly pop. It is a hassle yes but does work when your cruising areas
that the popping my be unwanted.

Edited December 1, 2013 by meechai

[VocalNeal]

well, my aftermarket pipe also pops and backfires and i like it that way

I'm with Il2,

F1/MotoGP/Lemans/DTM/V8SC cars and bikes all crackle and pop. It is what makes them interesting to listen to. Who need super loud noise on acceleration just give me some crackle and pop on deceleration! If fact I'd settle for a normal sounding exhaust that occasionally crackled and popped.

Edited December 1, 2013 by VocalNeal

[Polanskiman]

Thanks for the input. Been riding for over a week now with the Yoshi. I expected much louder pops but in fact it's nothing unbearable and I think I will not bother with the pair valves.

Yes the stock pipe pops too but not as much nor as often.

Ultimately, I need to find a solution for the FI red light that's on all the time now.

Edited December 1, 2013 by Polanskiman

[Polanskiman]

By the way I am looking for some low strength loctite for the for screw that holds the low vol insert. Anyone care to advice where I can find some?

Sent from my iPhone using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

Try locbond

http://www.locbond.co.th/

Thanks. Good as loctite?

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[Polanskiman]

Went on the internet to look about Locbond. Found out that the MD and founder is actually a former employee of Loctite...

Anyone knows if locbond product are reliable?

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[pastafarian]

The popping is perfectly normal and nothing to be worried about. I've had two slip-ons( Arrow and Leo Vince) and two full systems (Akrapovic and Termignoni) and all backfired even with a power commander on the Arrow and ecu reflash with the Termignoni.

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[Hili]

Went on the internet to look about Locbond. Found out that the MD and founder is actually a former employee of Loctite...

Anyone knows if locbond product are reliable?

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Locbond is fine my company changed from loctite to locbond and we are saving some bucs without loosing quality now.

[Hog Head]

Remove the PAR valve, and buy a Power Commander 5 and use PC Autotune to tune it.

If you have removed the Lambda sensor when you swapped out the muffler, that is why the light is on and you need a resistor jumper in the plug

[Polanskiman]

Remove the PAR valve, and buy a Power Commander 5 and use PC Autotune to tune it.

If you have removed the Lambda sensor when you swapped out the muffler, that is why the light is on and you need a resistor jumper in the plug

Thanks but I can't spend more money at present on the bike. The power commander is actually quite pricy.

I might simply buy the electronic jumper to bypass the red light.

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[yankee99]

yes blocking the pair valves normally eliminate the backfire. no you should need any ecu or fuel control add ons with that bike...

[Polanskiman]

I would like to reinstall the O2 sensor on the Yoshimura TRC pipe. Basically I need to make a whole and solder a threaded bung on the tail pipe so I can then screw back the O2 sensor.

Can anyone recommend where I could do that job? Preferably a pro shop who knows what it is doing.

Thanks.

[Hili]

the sensor bungs are pretty standard normally every exhuast shop can do this. Not sure where which location you are looking for

[Polanskiman]

the sensor bungs are pretty standard normally every exhuast shop can do this. Not sure where which location you are looking for

Hi. I'm located in Bangkok. Saladeang area. What shop do you recommend? Standard is something I distrust in Thailand!

[meechai]

I would like to reinstall the O2 sensor on the Yoshimura TRC pipe. Basically I need to make a whole and solder a threaded bung on the tail pipe so I can then screw back the O2 sensor.

Can anyone recommend where I could do that job? Preferably a pro shop who knows what it is doing.

Thanks.

It would be easier to bypass the O2

not by just taking it out but shunting it.Either by installing 2-330 resistors or buying a

plug like this that already has the resistors in.

It is not like the O2 closed loop sensor will get the correct reading with a different pipe anyway.

http://www.dan-moto.com/DM_INT/kawasaki-wholesale-129_130.html

[Polanskiman]

I would like to reinstall the O2 sensor on the Yoshimura TRC pipe. Basically I need to make a whole and solder a threaded bung on the tail pipe so I can then screw back the O2 sensor.

Can anyone recommend where I could do that job? Preferably a pro shop who knows what it is doing.

Thanks.

It would be easier to bypass the O2

not by just taking it out but shunting it.Either by installing 2-330 resistors or buying a

plug like this that already has the resistors in.

It is not like the O2 closed loop sensor will get the correct reading with a different pipe anyway.

http://www.dan-moto.com/DM_INT/kawasaki-wholesale-129_130.html

Well, I was initially inclined to go that way and install a sensor eliminator such as the one you advised. But I started reading around about it and it seems there is an issue with that method. What I have come to understand is that "the problem with the sensor eliminator is that it only sends a constant signal. The ECU may keep trying to lean down the mixture to near 14.7:1 at partial throttle opening, without getting a leaner signal from the O2 sensor, until the unchanging feedback triggers a fault lighting the FI warning light, and causing a sudden surge of power as ECU switches to open loop... If you want to run without the O2 sensor, you inevitably want to run the ECU in open loop. Anything that originally runs without an O2 sensor, like the American version, does run in open loop (no O2 feedback)." Quoted from post #7 from Invader at: http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10316

Therefore I was thinking of putting back the O2 sensor, but as you say might not be the best solution either as the pipe is different and the O2 sensor was designed with the stock pipe!

Edited December 4, 2013 by Polanskiman

[yankee99]

The sensor should work properly no matter what pipe as it is measuring the fumes. If you have the bung then you are in good shape if not you will need to get one.

The best place to get this done is a stainless steel fence shop. These shop tig thin wall ss everyday and this i a five minute job. Make sure you mark it so you have the depth and the wire is long enough to fit....

This pipe cracked in half and was about 150 baht to tig

[Polanskiman]

The sensor should work properly no matter what pipe as it is measuring the fumes. If you have the bung then you are in good shape if not you will need to get one.

The best place to get this done is a stainless steel fence shop. These shop tig thin wall ss everyday and this i a five minute job. Make sure you mark it so you have the depth and the wire is long enough to fit....

This pipe cracked in half and was about 150 baht to tig

Thanks Yankee99. So you are saying (contrary to the previous poster) that the O2 readings will be correct?

[RubberSideDown]

I blocked off my PAIR valve and it helped a bit with the decel pop- I'm also running a PC-V which didn't do much to decrease it, but flashing my ECU reduced it by about 80%.

[yankee99]

Yes that is what the sensor does. Why would a pipe cause the sensor not to work? The new pipe can cause the bike to run differently but the sensor should correct it which in turn makes the bike run properly...

[meechai]

Yes I should clarify what I was thinking.

It is not that the sensor will not work but

that it will make adjustments to the closed loop to bring the bike back

to the EPA driven reg settings reason for it being there.

Now the question is....Is that better for performance?

Most folks put a pipe on to increase performance so I had thought

the O2 sensor now seeing the new reading will tell the ECU to make adjustments to bring it

back & in a sense canceling some the benefits.

I am not sure this is all true but is something you have the opportunity

to test 1st hand. Since you have experienced the change & now will re-install the O2

sensor.

I am no expert & do not know for certain that when the non-O2 sensor fault is seen

now what is the result? Does it just change from closed loop to open loop readings?

(meaning does nothing to correct mixture to what EPA deems good the air/fuel ratio for petrol is 14.7:1)

If instead the ECU is tricked into seeing a perfect setting with the bypass is it better?

Again I do not know 1st hand.

I do know that all ECU aftermarket map boxes like PowerCommander, JuiceBox, Bazazz etc

all use the bypass as they do not want their box fighting with the closed loop readings

Edited December 4, 2013 by meechai

[yankee99]

Yes I should clarify what I was thinking.

It is not that the sensor will not work but

that it will make adjustments to the closed loop to bring the bike back

to the EPA driven reg settings reason for it being there.

Now the question is....Is that better for performance?

Most folks put a pipe on to increase performance so I had thought

the O2 sensor now seeing the new reading will tell the ECU to make adjustments to bring it

back & in a sense canceling some the benefits.

I am not sure this is all true but is something you have the opportunity

to test 1st hand. Since you have experienced the change & now will re-install the O2

sensor.

I am no expert & do not know for certain that when the non-O2 sensor fault is seen

now what is the result? Does it just change from closed loop to open loop readings?

If instead the ECU is tricked into seeing a perfect setting with the bypass is it better?

Again I do not know 1st hand.

I do know that all ECU aftermarket map boxes like PowerCommander, JuiceBox, Bazazz etc

all use the bypass as they do not want their box fighting with the closed loop readings

Since the op bike is a versys i doubt he will see any noticeable performance with a pipe change. Weight and looks will be more prevalent. The sensor will surely protect him from running lean.

[Polanskiman]

Since the op bike is a versys i doubt he will see any noticeable performance with a pipe change. Weight and looks will be more prevalent. The sensor will surely protect him from running lean.

That is correct. An aftermarket exhaust on a Versys will only add very little performance. In fact here are the gains:

Stock: 64.6 HP – 43.8 TQ

Yoshi: w/ insert: 65.9 HP – 43.7 Tq

Yoshi: w/o insert: 65.5 HP – 44.0 Tq

If you notice you even lose some torque with the insert on.

Anyways, I bought the pipe primarelly for the sound as the stock is just to silent and that is not good on a bike.

I think I will then proceed with soldering a bung to then screw the O2 sensor again.

Edited December 4, 2013 by Polanskiman