Who has blanked the EGR on their 3Ltr V-Cross

[JAS21]

About a year or so ago there was a topic on EGR and DPF. What I'm wondering is, has anyone actually done it on the New D-Max 3Ltr engine ... if so what else, if anything, did they have to do at the same time. Did they need to have a small hole in the blanking plate? Did they also chip and if so who did it for them.

I'm interested as initially I intended selling mine, but prices have dropped more than I would like so maybe keep it for another couple of years.

I was in our dealers garage very recently and I see they advertise a complete flush of the engine, using I assume some type of flushing oil, but could be a chemical I guess. The equipment had an external filter. I'll try and find out exactly how it's done.

So, as Isuzu offer this and say it extends engine life and other things as well, it infers that EGR is not good for the engine .... well it does to me.

Thanks

[thailoht]

Excellent questions!

I am looking to have all of this done in the future, too.

As for the 'engine flush', isn't it a (coolant?) flush where they 'flush' through the upper(?) radiator hose and exit through the lower radiator hose, flushing the 'engine block' and the 'radiator' in the process?

Is the 'flushing' done under pressure? If so, doesn't this damage the (plastic) water pump propeller fins?

Is this type of 'engine flush' better than doing the same thing yourself with a garden hose?

[John 1]

Excellent questions!

I am looking to have all of this done in the future, too.

As for the 'engine flush', isn't it a (coolant?) flush where they 'flush' through the upper(?) radiator hose and exit through the lower radiator hose, flushing the 'engine block' and the 'radiator' in the process?

Is the 'flushing' done under pressure? If so, doesn't this damage the (plastic) water pump propeller fins?

Is this type of 'engine flush' better than doing the same thing yourself with a garden hose?

Don't be silly, engine is engine, radiator is radiator so the man is talking about engine flush which mean's dropping old oil then putting in a flushing oil then after a shot period of running they will drop the flushing oil then put in correct oil.

As for blanking EGR on a D4D Toyota no problem. Don't know about Isuzu with maybe some info on the net.

[thailoht]

Excellent questions!

I am looking to have all of this done in the future, too.

As for the 'engine flush', isn't it a (coolant?) flush where they 'flush' through the upper(?) radiator hose and exit through the lower radiator hose, flushing the 'engine block' and the 'radiator' in the process?

Is the 'flushing' done under pressure? If so, doesn't this damage the (plastic) water pump propeller fins?

Is this type of 'engine flush' better than doing the same thing yourself with a garden hose?

Don't be silly, engine is engine, radiator is radiator so the man is talking about engine flush which mean's dropping old oil then putting in a flushing oil then after a shot period of running they will drop the flushing oil then put in correct oil.

As for blanking EGR on a D4D Toyota no problem. Don't know about Isuzu with maybe some info on the net.

If that's the case, then isn't this procedure indicated more so for older, high mileage engines that may have sludge buildup, etc., due to a history of bad oil change//usage habits?

[IMHO]

Excellent questions!

I am looking to have all of this done in the future, too.

As for the 'engine flush', isn't it a (coolant?) flush where they 'flush' through the upper(?) radiator hose and exit through the lower radiator hose, flushing the 'engine block' and the 'radiator' in the process?

Is the 'flushing' done under pressure? If so, doesn't this damage the (plastic) water pump propeller fins?

Is this type of 'engine flush' better than doing the same thing yourself with a garden hose?

Don't be silly, engine is engine, radiator is radiator so the man is talking about engine flush which mean's dropping old oil then putting in a flushing oil then after a shot period of running they will drop the flushing oil then put in correct oil.

As for blanking EGR on a D4D Toyota no problem. Don't know about Isuzu with maybe some info on the net.

If that's the case, then isn't this procedure indicated more so for older, high mileage engines that may have sludge buildup, etc., due to a history of bad oil change//usage habits?

EGR systems get clogged no matter how well you take care of your car. Most manufacturers specify the valve should be cleaned, and gunk flushed out every 40,000KM, and if you stick to dealer service that's what will happen.

Blocking the EGR valve stops the gunk building up, but potentially makes the engine run hotter on idle, can cause check engine lights in some cars, and can void the warranty if found.

[JAS21]

OK ... I have found out some more ... my wife phoned the service department and quizzed the guy ... unfortunately she didn't translate until after the phone call ... but here is what I gleamed.

Recommended/Suggested at 50K intervals.

Oil is drained out from the sump and the engine oil filter is also removed. A 'flushing oil' is then pumped through the engine and back to the external unit.

The engine does not run during this process. The filter is in the external unit. The 'flushing oil' is not heated.

She understood that the oil is pumped in via the sump, but I don't see how you will get a flow, so maybe the oil is actually pumped in via the engine oil filter and runs back to the external unit via the sump .... that sounds logical to me. Suppose you could pump the oil in via the sump and out via the oil filter but engine sumps are not spotless as that is where all the 'crap' collects.

Process time is 45minutes.

My thoughts are 1... CH4 spec oils are mildly detergent anyway, well they normally are and 2 ... I hope that all the 'flushing oil'

drains out, especially as it is not heated. Suppose someone must have thought this through ... bet we get a few 'opinions' on this practice

Anyway back to ... anyone blanked the EGR on the latest variant of Isuzu 3Ltr?

[thailoht]

OK ... I have found out some more ... my wife phoned the service department and quizzed the guy ... unfortunately she didn't translate until after the phone call ... but here is what I gleamed.

Recommended/Suggested at 50K intervals.

Oil is drained out from the sump and the engine oil filter is also removed. A 'flushing oil' is then pumped through the engine and back to the external unit.

The engine does not run during this process. The filter is in the external unit. The 'flushing oil' is not heated.

She understood that the oil is pumped in via the sump, but I don't see how you will get a flow, so maybe the oil is actually pumped in via the engine oil filter and runs back to the external unit via the sump .... that sounds logical to me. Suppose you could pump the oil in via the sump and out via the oil filter but engine sumps are not spotless as that is where all the 'crap' collects.

Process time is 45minutes.

My thoughts are 1... CH4 spec oils are mildly detergent anyway, well they normally are and 2 ... I hope that all the 'flushing oil'

drains out, especially as it is not heated. Suppose someone must have thought this through ... bet we get a few 'opinions' on this practice

Anyway back to ... anyone blanked the EGR on the latest variant of Isuzu 3Ltr?

Thanx for the update on that procedure. Until we get posters who are more familiar with the procedure, it sounds as though this is something those older vehicles, but we shall see.

What brings your interest to blanking the EGR valve? FYI, people also delete(remove) their DPF at the same time.

[VocalNeal]

The other "flushing I know about is fuel system cleaning where they circulate chemicals though the common rail system.

In the old days one could buy flushing oil that was run in a hot engine, some even used diesel fuel to flush. I have never heard of external flushing the lubrication system. With most modern oils containing detergents what do they expect to flush out? Ghosts? But there are products available that can be added to oil just prior to oil change that contain chemicals to dissolve sludge that can build up if the vehicle has been subject to "severe" use. Simple way to tell would be to remove the oil filler and stick a finger in there and/or look in with a flash-light see if you can locate any sludge. If not...

Like -wise, when the engine is cold, remove the radiator cap and poke a finger inside no sludge it is OK.

Sample


If you are a handy sort and can find some Naptha (called White Benzene in Thailand) and 91% isopropyl alcohol . White Benzine is for thinning paint , isopropyl alcohol from a local pharmacy maybe. There are recipes on the internet to make DIY Sea Foam using diesel fuel as the base.

Either way you run for 30 mins prior to oil change.

[thailoht]

.... additionally, how difficult is it for a DIY'er to remove and clean the EGR valve from the Isuzu 3.0L engine?

Alternatively, would frequent EGR cleanings - every 10k km (as opposed to the mfr. 40k recommendation) - be beneficial?

[thailoht]

Anyway back to ... anyone blanked the EGR on the latest variant of Isuzu 3Ltr?

Has there been any progress with your EGR unit?

I included a couple of pics. Our 3.0L EGR units are located on the passenger side of the engine, on the 'side' of the engine but all the way towards the rear and just behind the oil dipstick. Look for the 'copper colored' metal fixture. The 'black' thing attached to the 'top' of that fixture (by 4 small phillip-head bolts) is tha actual EGR valve. I am going to try to remove and 'clean' it - or have it done - until I am ready to have it blanked.

[John 1]

Anyway back to ... anyone blanked the EGR on the latest variant of Isuzu 3Ltr?

Has there been any progress with your EGR unit?

I included a couple of pics. Our 3.0L EGR units are located on the passenger side of the engine, on the 'side' of the engine but all the way towards the rear and just behind the oil dipstick. Look for the 'copper colored' metal fixture. The 'black' thing attached to the 'top' of that fixture (by 4 small phillip-head bolts) is tha actual EGR valve. I am going to try to remove and 'clean' it - or have it done - until I am ready to have it blanked.

Just blank and be done cost about 200bt unless you have a vehicle that will throw fault code's. On a Toyota no fault code's.

[JAS21]

Did it earlier this week ... fitted two blanking plates ... one before the EGR Cooler and one at the EGR Valve. A man who knows about these engines got me the plates ... he had already done the same one his identical vehicle.

I've now done 40000Kms and when the warranty runs out I'll remove the cooler.

It definitely has more power at low revs, even madam commented (it feels completely different). Haven't done a long run yet so don't know if it will effect the fuel consumption.

Wish I'd done it from the start ...........

[thailoht]

Did it earlier this week ... fitted two blanking plates ... one before the EGR Cooler and one at the EGR Valve. A man who knows about these engines got me the plates ... he had already done the same one his identical vehicle.

I've now done 40000Kms and when the warranty runs out I'll remove the cooler.

It definitely has more power at low revs, even madam commented (it feels completely different). Haven't done a long run yet so don't know if it will effect the fuel consumption.

Wish I'd done it from the start ...........

That's great news!

I am looking to do the same thing. Do you have a diesel chip installed?

Also, since you have already had the EGR blanking plates installed, what is your thought process for waiting until the warranty runs out before removing the actual EGR cooler (i.e., EGR valve?) as opposed to removing it right now? And do you know if when the EGR cooler (EGR valve?) is removed that it won't trigger a check engine light?

[thailoht]

Did it earlier this week ... fitted two blanking plates ... one before the EGR Cooler and one at the EGR Valve. A man who knows about these engines got me the plates ... he had already done the same one his identical vehicle.

I've now done 40000Kms and when the warranty runs out I'll remove the cooler.

It definitely has more power at low revs, even madam commented (it feels completely different). Haven't done a long run yet so don't know if it will effect the fuel consumption.

Wish I'd done it from the start ...........

I miss-typed: What I meant to say was, don't the installed EGR blanking plates look like the example pictured in pic #1 of post #10 above? The EGR valve assembly (pictured in pic # 2 of post #10 above) has been removed and been replaced by the blank plates. Is the EGR 'Cooler' a different unit?

[Ace of Pop]

The Valve doesn't open when you put your foot down,so how does blanking improve anything,exept wasting unburnt re cycled vapors.?

[JAS21]

Did it earlier this week ... fitted two blanking plates ... one before the EGR Cooler and one at the EGR Valve. A man who knows about these engines got me the plates ... he had already done the same one his identical vehicle.

I've now done 40000Kms and when the warranty runs out I'll remove the cooler.

It definitely has more power at low revs, even madam commented (it feels completely different). Haven't done a long run yet so don't know if it will effect the fuel consumption.

Wish I'd done it from the start ...........

That's great news!

I am looking to do the same thing. Do you have a diesel chip installed?

Also, since you have already had the EGR blanking plates installed, what is your thought process for waiting until the warranty runs out before removing the actual EGR cooler (i.e., EGR valve?) as opposed to removing it right now? And do you know if when the EGR cooler (EGR valve?) is removed that it won't trigger a check engine light?

Blanking the EGR invalidates the warranty ... full stop! It's unlikely that they will be spotted during routine servicing and on the D-Max the EGR Valve is not cleaned at service. So removing the Cooler is definitely a No No until the warranty is finished.

We fitted two plates but you can get away with just fitting one at the valve ... that one is very quick to fit or remove. The one at the cooler inlet is an absolute sod to fit due to lack of space and of course all have Loctite applied so breaking that is a problem ... you really need a windy gun. Also one of the studs came out so had to put that back .. you should locktite every thread.

I could be wrong but I didn't think that on the D-Max the EGR valve was vacuum controlled, I thought that it was just on engine revs ... whatever at low revs and on a light throttle it definitely has more power. The advantages of removing are well documented ... just google ... and I'll have clean and debris free oil even after 10K Kms. Anyone who thinks that black oil has less debris than clean looking oil is mistaken. And anyone who thinks that PM is good to go into the intake is again mistaken.

No I don't have a chip ... it's quick enough for me at my age without. Don't try and blank it with, as some do, a bit of coke can ... my plates are SS. You can google for the shape of the blank plate. Sorry I don't know where my plates came from ... ask no questions they just turned up ... 200baht each though.

Sorry forgot ... yes the EGR Cooler is on the other side of the engine ... That is where the exhaust gasses enter the system ... its EGR Cooler ... bit of pipe ... EGR Valve and then inlet. Many just blank at the EGR Valve. Remember you may get a buildup behind the plate with time .. if it fails whatever is there will probably make its way into the engine.

[thailoht]

Did it earlier this week ... fitted two blanking plates ... one before the EGR Cooler and one at the EGR Valve. A man who knows about these engines got me the plates ... he had already done the same one his identical vehicle.

I've now done 40000Kms and when the warranty runs out I'll remove the cooler.

It definitely has more power at low revs, even madam commented (it feels completely different). Haven't done a long run yet so don't know if it will effect the fuel consumption.

Wish I'd done it from the start ...........

That's great news!

I am looking to do the same thing. Do you have a diesel chip installed?

Also, since you have already had the EGR blanking plates installed, what is your thought process for waiting until the warranty runs out before removing the actual EGR cooler (i.e., EGR valve?) as opposed to removing it right now? And do you know if when the EGR cooler (EGR valve?) is removed that it won't trigger a check engine light?

Blanking the EGR invalidates the warranty ... full stop! It's unlikely that they will be spotted during routine servicing and on the D-Max the EGR Valve is not cleaned at service. So removing the Cooler is definitely a No No until the warranty is finished.

We fitted two plates but you can get away with just fitting one at the valve ... that one is very quick to fit or remove. The one at the cooler inlet is an absolute sod to fit due to lack of space and of course all have Loctite applied so breaking that is a problem ... you really need a windy gun. Also one of the studs came out so had to put that back .. you should locktite every thread.

I could be wrong but I didn't think that on the D-Max the EGR valve was vacuum controlled, I thought that it was just on engine revs ... whatever at low revs and on a light throttle it definitely has more power. The advantages of removing are well documented ... just google ... and I'll have clean and debris free oil even after 10K Kms. Anyone who thinks that black oil has less debris than clean looking oil is mistaken. And anyone who thinks that PM is good to go into the intake is again mistaken.

No I don't have a chip ... it's quick enough for me at my age without. Don't try and blank it with, as some do, a bit of coke can ... my plates are SS. You can google for the shape of the blank plate. Sorry I don't know where my plates came from ... ask no questions they just turned up ... 200baht each though.

Sorry forgot ... yes the EGR Cooler is on the other side of the engine ... That is where the exhaust gasses enter the system ... its EGR Cooler ... bit of pipe ... EGR Valve and then inlet. Many just blank at the EGR Valve. Remember you may get a buildup behind the plate with time .. if it fails whatever is there will probably make its way into the engine.

Now I think I better understand the process that you had done:

On your engine, you had only one(?) blanking plate installed at the EGR 'Cooler' and also one(?) other blanking plate installed at the EGR 'Valve'!?

I only knew about the technique that only blanked the EGR Valve, but you believe that this method could conceivably lead to a buildup behind the plate with time?

Using the 2 attached illustrations, on your engine, is your EGR Valve blanking plate installed at the '#1' or the '#2' connection point and is your EGR Cooler blanking plate installed at the '#2' or the '#3' connection point? So, your EGR Cooler and EGR Valve each have one blank plate attached to one of their ends?

[Ace of Pop]

So why am i told by some its nonsense , also i've Googled it and found some logic in why its pointless , except from sellers of Chips and Boy Racer stuff.?. IMHO post makes more sense to me.Just get it seviced correctly.

[bkkjames]

So why am i told by some its nonsense , also i've Googled it and found some logic in why its pointless , except from sellers of Chips and Boy Racer stuff.?. IMHO post makes more sense to me.Just get it seviced correctly.

Could never figure out the need for a chip, its a 2.5 lt diesel with 174hp, not a sports car.

Sent from my LG-P970 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

[Pomthai]

The older (non common rail) ones are vacuum controlled with hoses connecting to the EGR valve assemblies, though the vacuum unit itself which sits between the air filter box and coolant expansion tank is electronically switched. The newer engines all have an electrical connection on the actual EGR assembly.

[Ace of Pop]

Bkkjames, even I with my dislike of Pongers i can understand why some love chips.,,,,They can get to 100 in 1 Day instead of 3, sadly they cant even then hold off a City on gas stuff. Apart from the City spends 3 Days filling up,so about equal on a journey.!!.You will also notice the silence about the benefits of Bunging Up a Parts that are fitted by Engineers who clearly know less than our poster.Recon those BLANKERS have Bean Can Exhausts .My Wife told Me.

[thailoht]

Blanking the EGR invalidates the warranty ... full stop! It's unlikely that they will be spotted during routine servicing and on the D-Max the EGR Valve is not cleaned at service. So removing the Cooler is definitely a No No until the warranty is finished.

We fitted two plates but you can get away with just fitting one at the valve ... that one is very quick to fit or remove. The one at the cooler inlet is an absolute sod to fit due to lack of space and of course all have Loctite applied so breaking that is a problem ... you really need a windy gun. Also one of the studs came out so had to put that back .. you should locktite every thread.

I could be wrong but I didn't think that on the D-Max the EGR valve was vacuum controlled, I thought that it was just on engine revs ... whatever at low revs and on a light throttle it definitely has more power. The advantages of removing are well documented ... just google ... and I'll have clean and debris free oil even after 10K Kms. Anyone who thinks that black oil has less debris than clean looking oil is mistaken. And anyone who thinks that PM is good to go into the intake is again mistaken.

No I don't have a chip ... it's quick enough for me at my age without. Don't try and blank it with, as some do, a bit of coke can ... my plates are SS. You can google for the shape of the blank plate. Sorry I don't know where my plates came from ... ask no questions they just turned up ... 200baht each though.

Sorry forgot ... yes the EGR Cooler is on the other side of the engine ... That is where the exhaust gasses enter the system ... its EGR Cooler ... bit of pipe ... EGR Valve and then inlet. Many just blank at the EGR Valve. Remember you may get a buildup behind the plate with time .. if it fails whatever is there will probably make its way into the engine.

The method you used to have your EGR blanked looks to be the most thorough way versus blanking only the EGR valve. Where is your installer located? Do you have any info about the Pros or Cons of the two blanking methods?

[JAS21]

Bkkjames, even I with my dislike of Pongers i can understand why some love chips.,,,,They can get to 100 in 1 Day instead of 3, sadly they cant even then hold off a City on gas stuff. Apart from the City spends 3 Days filling up,so about equal on a journey.!!.You will also notice the silence about the benefits of Bunging Up a Parts that are fitted by Engineers who clearly know less than our poster.Recon those BLANKERS have Bean Can Exhausts .My Wife told Me.

Dear Mr Ace of Pops ... it's abundantly clear that you do not have an engineering background or are hiding it very well.

Okay so you have read a bit about EGRs ... I point you to the following three write-up ... suggest that your read and re-read until you understand. Now the third write up relates only to performance and I think that he is basically referring to a gasoline engine anyway... also on that website are other informative articles that you may well benefit from reading. ... should be a smiley here sorry I failed!

You need to fully understand why designers have had to fit EGRs ... and you don't seem to. Well you probably do actually and are just doing a little wind up ..... anyway this will keep you busy ..........

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exhaust_gas_recirculation

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1017976

http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2012/05/dont-block-or-remove-the-egr-valve-its-saving-you-money/

Now I'm referring to ... as the topic heading ... a 3Ltr D-Max (New model)

A few weeks ago I got a ride in a similar truck ... hell it was smoother and felt so much better than mine ... anyway last week I was with the owner again (my wife's cousin) at another family thing and we were chatting and he mentioned that he had blanked his EGR ... he's an engineer with a motor company, a pretty handy guy mechanically. So he agreed to get a plate and come around to my house and help me fit it (other way around actually!!).

Anyway he turned up with two plates and they got fitted. Later, I think he told me that the EGR shuts at about 1700rpm ... but that was after he had consumed five of my large Heinekens so maybe not exactly true!! However I have been promised the EGR operating spec next week.

It now has more low down power and smoother at those engine revs. I'll post the EGR spec when it arrives. On my model there is no problem with a CEL light or of the engine going into limp mode ... however that occurs on some other makes on occasions.

I don't decry anyone who fits a chip, many lower their trucks and find I guess great enjoyment. I find my truck reasonably fast and in 4WD it really hangs in the corners.

And yes, madam is quite cute mechanically ... can change spark plugs ... in fact was advising on the problem we had fitting the blanks until I told her to f__k off and make the coffee. Years ago she had a new Mazda Lantis and in its day was a bit of a flying machine. Has a UK driving license so don't take the piss please, or if you do just don't ever meet her!!

After your reading/enlightening I very much look forward to more useful information in your posts... enjoy.

By the way thank you for your entertainment.

[thailoht]

Bkkjames, even I with my dislike of Pongers i can understand why some love chips.,,,,They can get to 100 in 1 Day instead of 3, sadly they cant even then hold off a City on gas stuff. Apart from the City spends 3 Days filling up,so about equal on a journey.!!.You will also notice the silence about the benefits of Bunging Up a Parts that are fitted by Engineers who clearly know less than our poster.Recon those BLANKERS have Bean Can Exhausts .My Wife told Me.

Dear Mr Ace of Pops ... it's abundantly clear that you do not have an engineering background or are hiding it very well.

Okay so you have read a bit about EGRs ... I point you to the following three write-up ... suggest that your read and re-read until you understand. Now the third write up relates only to performance and I think that he is basically referring to a gasoline engine anyway... also on that website are other informative articles that you may well benefit from reading. ... should be a smiley here sorry I failed!

You need to fully understand why designers have had to fit EGRs ... and you don't seem to. Well you probably do actually and are just doing a little wind up ..... anyway this will keep you busy ..........

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exhaust_gas_recirculation

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1017976

http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2012/05/dont-block-or-remove-the-egr-valve-its-saving-you-money/

Now I'm referring to ... as the topic heading ... a 3Ltr D-Max (New model)

A few weeks ago I got a ride in a similar truck ... hell it was smoother and felt so much better than mine ... anyway last week I was with the owner again (my wife's cousin) at another family thing and we were chatting and he mentioned that he had blanked his EGR ... he's an engineer with a motor company, a pretty handy guy mechanically. So he agreed to get a plate and come around to my house and help me fit it (other way around actually!!).

Anyway he turned up with two plates and they got fitted. Later, I think he told me that the EGR shuts at about 1700rpm ... but that was after he had consumed five of my large Heinekens so maybe not exactly true!! However I have been promised the EGR operating spec next week.

It now has more low down power and smoother at those engine revs. I'll post the EGR spec when it arrives. On my model there is no problem with a CEL light or of the engine going into limp mode ... however that occurs on some other makes on occasions.

I don't decry anyone who fits a chip, many lower their trucks and find I guess great enjoyment. I find my truck reasonably fast and in 4WD it really hangs in the corners.

And yes, madam is quite cute mechanically ... can change spark plugs ... in fact was advising on the problem we had fitting the blanks until I told her to f__k off and make the coffee. Years ago she had a new Mazda Lantis and in its day was a bit of a flying machine. Has a UK driving license so don't take the piss please, or if you do just don't ever meet her!!

After your reading/enlightening I very much look forward to more useful information in your posts... enjoy.

By the way thank you for your entertainment.

I for one appreciate the very informative 'mechanical' knowledge you shared about this topic!

I will definitely be looking for any follow-ups!

As for the 'entertainment' value of the other stuff - I'll stick with, "The Simpsons" - That Homer is actually funny!

[Ace of Pop]

The bit about the Mrs was informative. Il pass the info on to R&D. Boy Racers Dept Isuzu....Gawd Elp Us. Zooms round corners in 4W.D !!. its for Mud, Ah Well... Leo isnt as strong as Chang by the way.

[Ace of Pop]

Seriously JAS, ive read what you posted, but it stil comes back to the one big article i read.It does not increase performance!!1.So i ask myself is this Engineer wrong, and why hasnt anyone argued with him.Ive never had a tuned diesel so i cant.

[Jitar]

EGR is a cheap solution to meet NOx emission standards. The main benefit of blanking EGR valves is to stop particles from the exhaust being recycled in to the engine and avoiding engine oil contamination and wear.

Most engine close the EGR at full load so it will not change max power or torque. It does make a small different to low to mid range performance.

EGR is probably not for those with new vehicles, who value the warranty and plan to change the vehicle well before the likely engine life.

Blanking EGR is a reasonable mod for those planning to keep a vehicle long term.

[Ace of Pop]

Perfect reply Jitar. I Understand that. So the Guy was correct when he said. No Change in Max Power because the Valve Shuts when you gun it...

[JAS21]

Perfect reply Jitar. I Understand that. So the Guy was correct when he said. No Change in Max Power because the Valve Shuts when you gun it...

ACE ... I'm still waiting for the answer as to EGR operation spec for my truck. As said, not just by me, the low down torque is improved ... in my case quite noticeable ... the rear tyres make that little squeak on pulling away unless I'm very gentle with the throttle ... and the truck just feels smoother at low revs when accelerating.

If you were to floor the throttle at low revs (I never have by the way) I don't know what would happen to the EGR Valve ... I'll have an answer soon though. The main advantage is oil staying clean and gunging up of the inlet stopped. I don't know, as yet, if throttle position feeds into the signal which goes to the EGR Valve motor ... but yes the valve is certainly closed at high speed and therefore blanking cannot increase the max power.

That guy who wrote the articles in the third website I suggested makes many interesting points ... quite informative ... worth a read sometime ...................... enjoy 'kin hot again today isn't it!!!

Off to Kanch later this week for a few days ... give me chance to see what the temperature around the battery is on a long run .. you know the 'lift the hood when you stop' debate smiley worked this time ....

[Jitar]

JAS the 3rd article you linked is talking about spark ignition engines with EGR. Diesels use EGR differently and do not have the pumping loss issue, as noted in the wiki article you linked.

The current small jap diesels generally use a use the ECU and a feed back signal to control a motor which positions the EGR valve. If you floor the throttle, the EGR valve should open pretty quickly.