Kubota tractor prices

[Surin13]

Hi all,

Can someone give me a rough price for the following Kubota tractors (new).

M6040SU

M7040

M108s

Thanks

[srn89]

Why don't you contact the Dealer in your area ?

[Surin13]

Not currently in Thailand at the moment, so contacting a dealer in my current location is pointless. I will contact dealers when I am back in Thailand in month or so,but was hoping someone could help out with rough figures so I can do some research/cost benefit analyses in the mean time.

Happy for people to give rough prices on equivalent brand tractors of similar sizes, also I think others maybe interested to know prices also.

[Surin13]

So nobody has any idea what these tractors cost? not much of a farming section in TV I take it

[Canada]

Well, I've got a New Holland 6610S. Comparable to the 108. I paid 1,650,000 cash for it.

I looked at Kubotas but decided to buy New Holland. If I remember correctly, the 60 and 70 were in the same ballpark of about 1,000,000. I could be mistaken. Obviously the 60 would be a little less.

That was a year and a half ago.

[Surin13]

Thanks for that Canada, are you happy with the New Holland 6610S?

[Canada]

Thanks for that Canada, are you happy with the New Holland 6610S?

Well, I am. But having said that, I should also say that I am relatively inexperienced. I've got about 660 hours on a tractor and they are all on this one.

If I had the money, I'd buy the next model up, the 7610. It has about an extra 100 ft. lbs of torque. That would make a difference in what gear I could use the 3 disc in. Right now I can usually plough in 4 low, but I could do it in 1 high with the extra torque. I think it would be a little easier on the tractor and ploughing a little faster helps break up the dirt as well. For tougher jobs it's 3 low right now. Personally, I don't know how these guys on their old 2 wd 6610's manage to plow a field to any depth. I have tried with my rig. Can't go very deep with only 2wd, you'll just burn your tires off.

In all my research and looking around at new tractors, one thing stood out in my mind. In all the fields out here in Isaan, all you see is old 6610's. My reasoning is that if the Thais can't run them into the ground, then they must be a dam_n good tractor. So I bought the new one.

BTW...I wouldn't bother with the cheaper TS series. They are cheaper for a reason. I talked to one chap the other day who hires his out, he's gone through 4 clutches and a front axle in year.

So yeah, loving the tractor I guess

Edited January 22, 2014 by Canada

[Evilbaz]

Are you ploughing (with discs)or scarifying (withe tynes) or trash-cultivating?

If you want to cultivate at depth with the local gear go slow - cha cha young man - otherwise the discs/tynes will lift up with speed.

Dig deep slowly - finish fast you've only touched up the surface. (bit like sex really).

Cultivate to the depth most suitable for your intended crop's root system/feeding zone.

Buy a tractor with higher specs than what you need - hiring it out once your crop is in is the only way of justifying your spend on a viable capital expense basis = particularly on a subsistence farm.

[Surin13]

Yes I agree bigger is generally better with tractors, the size of the paddy's is what limits tractor size the most.

To plow a field to any depth with disc harrow it really depends on the ground. How hard, how wet, etc will determine the best speed as well as tractor size. Going on the size of the 6610s 4 or 3 low sounds about the right speed.

A lot of it depends on the soil conditions....previously plowed ground will turn much easier thus less pulling power, ground that hasn't been worked in years (new ground) will be quite hard and might take a little more throttle and power.

Generally a little faster plowing is easier than too slow, you may need to make lots of passes with the discs to get down to the depth you need.

Another important thing is too make sure your plow is setup right, if you have draft control make sure its setup correctly, if too deep you it bogs the tractor or spins the wheels, too shallow you wont get deep enough.

If your furrow bottom is up and down and not real flat, you have too much point on your plow. and need to adjust it out a little, if it wont dig in at all and wants too plow too shallow or ride up out of the ground, you don't have enough point.

[Canada]

Yup. It's these things that I'm learning. I'm much better this year than last. I can find the optimum set up for the field I'm in and plow to the limit of either the dirt, the tractor or the set up.

[kickstart]

Let’s put a spanner in the works ,why plough,? It is expensive in fuel a 6610 , 2 wheel drive spends half its time spinning with very rapid tyre wear and what damage does it do to the soil structure , making a pan that water cannot get though/drain ,last thing you need in a maize crop in a very wet season. All so nutrient’s in the top 6 inches form the previous crop ends up out of reach for the following crop .

Now farmers are ploughing old sugar cain crops ,maize stubble, Ok do it this time of year the weed root are facing up hill and will wither and die in the sun, but is it hard work on dry land, no wonder Canada’ s mate had 4 clutches in one year, must have been patten clutch plates to.

So, what is the solution? Use a cultivator, or a chisel plough a 6610 should be able to pull 5 leg cultivators, a cultivator will use less fuel get down to break up the land help drainage, might have to go up and down then across field.

I have a small cultivator on the back of my 20 hip Hino I can only pull 2 tines but on a piece of grass land it made a good job went down a good 1 foot , a Thai 3 furrow plough for my tractor is about as much use as a chocolate tea pot this time of year, when I was doing my grass land last year, and a Thai cowboy with his 6610 would have left clods that would not fit in to a wheelbarrow, all has to be knocked down ,at time and expense to get a good seed bed for grass.

Cultivating has it problems weed control is not good, but that can be overcome.

Of course the main problem in LOS is where to find a cultivator, some of the big machinery dealers in Chonburi might have one ,or the legs and a frame could soon be made up, , a local guy near me makes a type of subsoil /fertilizer drill it would not be difficult to adapt one.

They are some web sights on why plough, have a look at www. Docstoc.com chisel plough .from an old Ransomes catalogue the tractor in the photo is an old Ford 5000,not unlike LOS.

Yours Regs

KS

[Surin13]

Why Plough? depends on what you are growing.

The advantages of ploughing are to obtain a deep seed bed of good texture, increase the water holding capacity of the soil, improve soil aeration, control weeds, insects and pests and to add fertility to the soil by covering vegetation.

Also decreases the amount of chemicals need to control weeds.

Some of the points you mentioned are valid for certain types of crops, but not really for rice crops. How you prepare the field depends on what you are planting and the soil condition/structure.

Also after you do your primary ploughing, you should then harrow the field, which is done to a shallow depth for smoothing and pulverizing the soil as well as to cut the weeds and to mix the materials with the soil.

[kickstart]

Why Plough? depends on what you are growing.

The advantages of ploughing are to obtain a deep seed bed of good texture, increase the water holding capacity of the soil, improve soil aeration, control weeds, insects and pests and to add fertility to the soil by covering vegetation.

Also decreases the amount of chemicals need to control weeds.

Some of the points you mentioned are valid for certain types of crops, but not really for rice crops. How you prepare the field depends on what you are planting and the soil condition/structure.

Also after you do your primary ploughing, you should then harrow the field, which is done to a shallow depth for smoothing and pulverizing the soil as well as to cut the weeds and to mix the materials with the soil.

I can not see how ploughing can improve soil aeration, you are just turning over the same soil ,

leaving a pann underneath, soil can not breathe , as for increacing fertility,unless it is a legume crop,mung beans,soya bean, the straw and the nitrogen fixing nodules will add some fertility to the soil,but old maize stubble ,and old sugar cain leaves will not add a lot fertility,lose more than you save

As I said do you what to increase warter holding capacity in a maize crop, or cassava in a very wet ,wet season ,you need the the land to drain,can not say change the crop,some farmers have no choice of croping .

As for rice, around here they are useing a "pann-jet" 7 disc plough, then a tractor and rotovater, dose most of the work when the water is added, so a cultivator could do as well .

Where I do agee with you , is after the primary ploughing, here in LOS the amount of times I have seen a maize crop drilled in to a seed bed with clods/lumps of soil size of a small bucket , no rain after drilling ,to much air in the soil, it dry's out, no compaction,low seed germnation ,stunted crop ,or as is the case a compleat re-drill.

Only useing the 3 and 7 disce ploughs you can not get a good seed bed, as above,OK on sand land but on heaver land no way must go over the land at least twice,somthing a Thai will not do ,once is enough. I have said befor I made a dutch harrow for my tractor that works well ,I have a crummbler bar on the back ,that is OK but the conditions have to right to do a good job,a lot better than a "pann -jet"

A machinery dealer near me has a 3 m power harrow/rotary harrow, for sale,that would make a good job after the primary ploughing ,but I can see any one buying

it this being Thailnd ,nothing changes,also when will a 1 pass culltivator be used here, a good bit of kit ,would work well here, save a lot of money , dream on.

[Canada]

As far as the clumps too big to fit in a wheelbarrow.....here's another perspective on that:

Thais hire their tractor out when they are not doing their own land. They price the job depending on type of dirt, what the crop was last year, whether it is a large plot or small, with obstacles and stumps. There is a narrow range of pricing. The Thai farmer that hires the tractor to work his land makes shit money for his labour as most of his money is spent on fertiliser and the middle man. So the farmer get's his land done as cheap as possible. They generally specify 3 disc once and 7 disc once, then plant. Occasionally you will find a farmer who is willing to work the dirt more and pay more but that is the exception rather than the norm.

The tractor owner operator makes shit for money as well and does his best to conserve fuel and maintenance costs so he does not do the job as well as it should be done, but he generally does what he is paid for. A shitty job for shitty money. He has no money to start with so he has a 2 wheel drive 6610 or a newer under powered 50 hp JD or Kubota to try and plough dirt that some sugar hauling rig has driven back and forth over twenty times during harvest to pack the dirt into a thick layer of "rock dirt" ..that is dirt that breaks into large clumps when you plough it....if he can even break the surface with his underpowered rig.

So...it's not that he does know how to do a good job or that he won't; he only gets paid to do a shitty job, so that's all he can afford to do.

[kickstart]

As far as the clumps too big to fit in a wheelbarrow.....here's another perspective on that:

Thais hire their tractor out when they are not doing their own land. They price the job depending on type of dirt, what the crop was last year, whether it is a large plot or small, with obstacles and stumps. There is a narrow range of pricing. The Thai farmer that hires the tractor to work his land makes shit money for his labour as most of his money is spent on fertiliser and the middle man. So the farmer get's his land done as cheap as possible. They generally specify 3 disc once and 7 disc once, then plant. Occasionally you will find a farmer who is willing to work the dirt more and pay more but that is the exception rather than the norm.

The tractor owner operator makes shit for money as well and does his best to conserve fuel and maintenance costs so he does not do the job as well as it should be done, but he generally does what he is paid for. A shitty job for shitty money. He has no money to start with so he has a 2 wheel drive 6610 or a newer under powered 50 hp JD or Kubota to try and plough dirt that some sugar hauling rig has driven back and forth over twenty times during harvest to pack the dirt into a thick layer of "rock dirt" ..that is dirt that breaks into large clumps when you plough it....if he can even break the surface with his underpowered rig.

So...it's not that he does know how to do a good job or that he won't; he only gets paid to do a shitty job, so that's all he can afford to do.

You have a point,but the link I gave was a photo from the mid 1970's, doing his autumn cultivation's ,after the combining ,the combine will put some small seeds out the back,+some weed seed's , the cultivator will stir the soil with a bit of moisture, the seed's will germinate, the ploughing afterwards will kill off all the rubbish,helps weed control ,easer to plough to ,the Ford was pulling 9 legs ,if it was a month before, he would not get 2 ins in the ground ,if it was dry.

,Here most of the ploughing is done in the dry season, for some weed control ,I had a Ford 8210 about 90 hp 4wd, plough 4 rie for me at 500 bart /rie expencive, and as you said he make a crap job,the start /finish furrows in the middle of the field,where like a gully,would have held water only ,nothing woud have grown,took me ages to leval it all out, same on the headlands,a large gully.

I have seen some good ploughing done, the guys are doing they own land own tractor, Most buy a tractor and rely on the contract work to pay for the tractor, so can not do the job to cheap , will lose out .

As for ploughing in the dry season ,that seems unreal to me,of course it will be hard work esp on sugar land,why not wait for some rain it will make the job hell of a lot more easy and a better job make, some one will say ,soon as the rain's come everyone will want there land doing at the same time, and can not wait. not enough tractors to go round.

The big investment in sugar this year, has gone pear shape no rain ,cassava not to bad, 2.40 Bart/KG ,but price will drop .Your 50 hp tractor ,with ,say 7 tine cultivator ,doing some maize land,after some rain wil find it easyer, then say a 5/7 disc plough will make I think a good job,then drill,you will have to use a per emergence spray,but most do anyway, around here. just growing maize, mung beans,sunflowers ( esp round here) keep the job simpal, you could do OK

You have to look at the bottom line to make money ,doing it the Thai way , would make less money,a crap seed bed ,seeds can not get going,you have loss money soon as you have finished drilling.

As as been said before,Thai's do not like changes, education ,agian would help ,a very long time in coming.My Ford guy ,he has well gone ,now more moden ways, and more effcient ways, are being used ,but they could still work over here.

Not all doom and gloom, this year for the first time some sunflowers,where direct drilled in to the previous maize crop,so far the results look very encourging,some very good crops around,hope the local pidgin's do not spoll it.

Yours Regs

KS

n population do not spoll it

i

[Canada]

Most of the ploughing is done in the cold/dry season. At least for sugarcane. That's the cycle. You can do it just before the rain and plant then, but you run the risk of no rain, or too much rain. I've done that, and I got too much rain right after planting....for too long. We had to replant the entire 50 rai the following year.

Other crops, I have no idea.

[farmerjo]

I tend to agree with KS,

After years of ploughing leaving rough paddocks as well as wear and tear to tractor always being on an angle in the furrow.

This year i will adapt my seeding machine to fit this and do in one pass,tynes are adjustable in height and will mount wheels for depth control.

Cant wait to finally be working on level ground.

The other advantage is over time you will see only weeds growing in the furrows.

Got out of sugar years ago but often wondered why you couldn't just deep rip the line for planter to seed the setts and leave the soil undisturbed in between the rows similar to tree planting machines.

[kickstart]

I tend to agree with KS,

After years of ploughing leaving rough paddocks as well as wear and tear to tractor always being on an angle in the furrow.

This year i will adapt my seeding machine to fit this and do in one pass,tynes are adjustable in height and will mount wheels for depth control.

Cant wait to finally be working on level ground.DSCN4098.JPG

The other advantage is over time you will see only weeds growing in the furrows.

Got out of sugar years ago but often wondered why you couldn't just deep rip the line for planter to seed the setts and leave the soil undisturbed in between the rows similar to tree planting machines.

If your land is fairly clean and light ,add a crumble bar to the back does help, I made one not to diffucult ,I have no photo's of mine, very crap camere, googal for an Idea.

Good luck.

KS

[Canada]

I tend to agree with KS,

After years of ploughing leaving rough paddocks as well as wear and tear to tractor always being on an angle in the furrow.

This year i will adapt my seeding machine to fit this and do in one pass,tynes are adjustable in height and will mount wheels for depth control.

Cant wait to finally be working on level ground.DSCN4098.JPG

The other advantage is over time you will see only weeds growing in the furrows.

Got out of sugar years ago but often wondered why you couldn't just deep rip the line for planter to seed the setts and leave the soil undisturbed in between the rows similar to tree planting machines.

You could do that. Depends on the condition of the soil really. I planted about 10 rai that way this year because last year I decided to try planting wider than normal row spacing. The cane was great, but not enough of it. So thiis year aI ran the drill unit up the middle of the rows and then pulled the planter through after that. Where the sol was in good condition it worked well, the cane is coming up now. Where the soil was heavily compacted due to cane trucks and tractors going in and out of the lot, the soil broke into large chunks and din't do well with the planter. Left a lot of handwork to fix it.

Yeah, I get tired of sitting on an angle too. The inside of the ride side of my tires are wearing...I think the key is tire rotation.

[Samlula]

Hi,

I am a bit late on the reply, but the prices for some tractors below, you probaly will get a +/- discount 20,000 ---30,000 baht on the kubota ones,

M6040: 814,000 Baht

M7040: 930,000 Baht

M8540: 1,200,000 Baht

M9540: 1,330,000 baht

M108S: 1,535,000 Baht

M135X: 2,550,000 Baht

New Holland TD95 D Plus c/w air condition cab: 1,680,000 Baht (98 HP turbo)

Claas Talos 130 c/w air condition cab: 1,060,000 Baht (55 HP turbo),

Over the period of a good few years, I have had at one point, all the Kubota's above apart from the M135X, I really cannot complain about Kubota, i think they make real good machines, the only tractor i would not have again would be the M6040, i just found it not so user friendly as the other ones. Actually the only reason I changed from Kubota was beacuse they could not provide air condition cabs, thats why i changed to the TD95 D and The Claas, up until now, I have nothing but good comments about both machines, especially the Claas Talos.

Regards

[joker7]

Hi

The girlfriend just txted said she's been offered 630,000 baht for her 2nd hand Kubota M6040. Anyone have any Idea if this is a good price - 2 years old and 1700 hrs on the clock.

[DepDavid]

I would say good as the price I was quoted for new m4708 was 700K.

[Cashboy]

This is an old topic but thought I would add my latest experience.

I went to Udon Thani Kubota dealer last month.

I was very impressed how much stock they had.

They had mainly a huge stock of Kubota L Series tractors (100 + ).

I told them that I was interested in a tractor and equipment for a farm up to 100 rai that was growing rice and sugar cane and vegetables and that the tractor would also be used for contract farming on small family farms.

They told me I would need to buy the following with prices as follows:

Tractor L4708SP 606,000

Front Shovel FD185F 54,000

Plow - 4 blade DP224 41,000

Plow - 6 blade DP246 46,300

Rotavator RX 61,500

808,800

Discount 50,000

758,800

Extra discount if buy before 30 April 15 10,000 (though think they do this every month).

Total 748,000 bt

I was expecting at least 5% off the tractor and I have seen Kubota offer 50% off the equipment when bought with tractor so was rather disappointed; i.e. 30,000 bt off tractor and 100,000 bt off the equipment.

Most of the L4708SP tractors had the FD185F front blade on it.

I thought this front blade hinders the tractor in rice fields as it is connected under the chassis making the ground clearance lower and also hindering the tractor from getting out of rice fields.

I actually think that the proper front bucket (LA588 for 170,000 bt) would make more sense as it detachable from the tractor quickly, can be used for loading with 3 metre lift and you could make other attachments such as forks to use it as a fork lift truck. I also think this has an extra hydraulic connection on the tractor that could be useful.

I noticed driving out of Udon Thani that there is another Kubota dealer opening that might bring a bit more competition to the area.

Edited May 9, 2015 by Cashboy

[farmerjo]

Kubota also have the Kubotamax range.

Look new but are secondhand that fit into a warranty critirea.

When looking at the tractors in the yard,it pays to wonder down to the workshop and have a look at what tractors are being repaired.

Most tractors will have a common fault linked to a model and it will give you an understanding of what you maybe up for down the track.

Is there any kubota owners out there that have had particular problems with their model?(hydraulics,overheating,front uni-joints)

[Cashboy]

Kubota also have the Kubotamax range.

Look new but are secondhand that fit into a warranty critirea.

When looking at the tractors in the yard,it pays to wonder down to the workshop and have a look at what tractors are being repaired.

Most tractors will have a common fault linked to a model and it will give you an understanding of what you maybe up for down the track.

Is there any kubota owners out there that have had particular problems with their model?(hydraulics,overheating,front uni-joints)

I have been looking at second hand prices on adverts and it appears to me that the Thais appear to live in fantasy land when it comes to the value of a second hand tractor. I can see that most Thais don't maintain or service anything and drive it until it comes to a grinding halt.

I have looked at other suppliers in Thailand.

Holland large tractors seem OK (made in mexico) but the smaller ones are made in Italy and even the new ones on display are rusting.

Yanmar is a possibility as their small tractors are built in Thailand and sold as John Deer abroad.

John Deer looked feasible especially as there is a dealer in Kumpawapi but worry about spares. Saying that when I asked a Thai of his experience, he said that he has not had any problems in the three years he has owned his tractor that was imported by his daughter's Swiss boyfriend for them.

Edited May 10, 2015 by Cashboy

[kickstart]

Buy a tractor,it all depends what you are giong to use one for,our Canadar brought new Ford, he needed one for all his cain,Farmerjoe has a second hand 4 wheel drive Ford with 100 rie of maize, which in english money, is only 40 acre at 2 crops a year is 80 acre.when that Ford was working in Europe at peak time, it probaby did 80 acre in a week,then another 80 acre the following week, it will serve him well for a few years yet.

Cashboys Kubota shopping list looks expencive,is it all nessasry.

So how about looking at a re- con Ford 6610,we have a place near here that recons old Fords,time they are done look almost new woud keep you going for a few years ,would be a lot cheaper and will have more hp than the Kubota.

Some farmers buy second hand 3and 7 disc ploughs,put new discs on ,I like the scalloped discs, cut though the weeds and rubish,away you go.

A rotavator for the rice fields when a lot of imported tractors come over from Japan a lot have a rotavator on the back,most are taken off,can be brought cheap,as we use to say ,may need a trip to the dentist,have new teeth (blades) fitted. would do for a few rie of rice.

Farming in Thailand is not easy,margins are tight the crop prices are volatile ,wheather plays a big part (we lost 40 rie of maize ,no rain),investing in a lot of expencive equipment is not going help.

My 2 satang worth.

[GaryB1263]

Gentlemen this has been a very interesting thread.

[farmerjo]

Buy a tractor,it all depends what you are giong to use one for,our Canadar brought new Ford, he needed one for all his cain,Farmerjoe has a second hand 4 wheel drive Ford with 100 rie of maize, which in english money, is only 40 acre at 2 crops a year is 80 acre.when that Ford was working in Europe at peak time, it probaby did 80 acre in a week,then another 80 acre the following week, it will serve him well for a few years yet.

Cashboys Kubota shopping list looks expencive,is it all nessasry.

So how about looking at a re- con Ford 6610,we have a place near here that recons old Fords,time they are done look almost new woud keep you going for a few years ,would be a lot cheaper and will have more hp than the Kubota.

Some farmers buy second hand 3and 7 disc ploughs,put new discs on ,I like the scalloped discs, cut though the weeds and rubish,away you go.

A rotavator for the rice fields when a lot of imported tractors come over from Japan a lot have a rotavator on the back,most are taken off,can be brought cheap,as we use to say ,may need a trip to the dentist,have new teeth (blades) fitted. would do for a few rie of rice.

Farming in Thailand is not easy,margins are tight the crop prices are volatile ,wheather plays a big part (we lost 40 rie of maize ,no rain),investing in a lot of expencive equipment is not going help.

My 2 satang worth.

I paid 450,000 for my ford tractor with a cab purely at the time with the vision of it being mainly for the purpose of spraying herbicides and liquid fertilizers(only if i could find a decent liquid fertilizer that doesnt need 1000's of litres of water mixed with it)

This year i've made three passes with the sprayer and it has saved me over 36,000 baht(on contract labour to spray)

If i add a liquid fertilizer pass thats nearly 50,000 baht on one crop in savings.

At the end of the day as KS says its overkill,unless you have a lot of rai or enjoy hobby farming.The farm could never afford to buy a new tractor up front out of profits made.

Edited May 11, 2015 by farmerjo

[Cashboy]

At the end of the day as KS says its overkill,unless you have a lot of rai or enjoy hobby farming.The farm could never afford to buy a new tractor up front out of profits made.

That is what I concluded.

I went to get the prices so I know what I should be paying for a second hand one when some poor farmer relaises he has made that mistake and can't make the repayments and forced to sell.

I was therefore looking at putting the front bucket on to use it for construction work and was looking at buying a bore hole machine for making bore holes on the farm. with the PTO.

[kickstart]

Gentlemen this has been a very interesting thread.

Thank You.