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Way to Soundproof my Bedroom from Street Noise


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Posted

Many many moons ago ( more than i care to remember) my (Then) band and i made a soundproof recording studio using the trays that eggs come in, glued to the walls. Cost nothing and worked like a charm

Like this....post-169941-0-19321900-1392463049_thumb.

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Posted

Dear Amigo, you don't waste your money. Your mentioned problem comes with your age. When you were younger you could sleep well even a battle-field. If you are enough old you will wake up to every BST. This is the life can't do anything.

You can't be serious blink.png

Posted

Many many moons ago ( more than i care to remember) my (Then) band and i made a soundproof recording studio using the trays that eggs come in, glued to the walls. Cost nothing and worked like a charm

No egg trays like that in Thailand. At least I haven't seen any! You gotta eat A LOT of eggs!

Sent from my XT1032 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

I see them everyday in my local shop. Usually stacked around 2 foot tall. Seen them at the local markets also. I meant the large trays, not egg boxes though smile.png

Seen em stacked 20 high on the back of a motor bike with a rubberband holding them down.

Posted

Nail empty egg-cartons to the outside walls.

No, paperboard egg cartons works for acoustics only on smooth hard surfaces, they will not insulate and reduce noise from outside. The hippie-age way improving a garage to be a recording studio.

Best sound insulation is heavy materials (like stone/cement) and reducing vibrations between surfaces (with mineral wool like brand Rockwool).

First and cheapest thing to check and improve is unwanted openings toward noise source, such as bad closing window frames (rubber band) or ventilation holes (can even be small openings where aircon pipes comes in). Noise/sound loves to find its way in through small holes.

Double glass windows will improve some. Sealed frames are more important and a thicker glass like 6mm instead of 3mm or 4mm, or use laminated 8mm made of two 4mm glass plates glued together; best performance from a double window with a laminated 8mm and a single 6mm, in of course a solid non vibrating frame. Maximum is achieved from two sets of separated frames and the glass slightly angled and few degrees, so standing sound waves between the glasses are killed (thats how to make a window in a recording studio, but may be a bit over the target for normal room, especially if walls and ceiling etc. are not up to maximum insulation).

The white comfort bricks are good, especially if you make double walls with mineral wool between the two walls; even better if one of the double walls is made of solid bricks. Construction wise the solid brick wall shall be where you have a foundation to carry it, as the white comfort bricks are not so heavy.

Ceiling can also be a cause for noise, but a bit trickier to deal with. Mineral wool above gypsum plates can improve.

Acoustic non-reflective materials may help a bit inside the room, but will not be a major improvement, such as thick curtains or other non-reflective materials for example empty egg cartons

Thought I mentioned that in my post already. Do people read the posts actually...nada
Posted

Many many moons ago ( more than i care to remember) my (Then) band and i made a soundproof recording studio using the trays that eggs come in, glued to the walls. Cost nothing and worked like a charm

Like this....attachicon.gif073344720_07323523557d38e9a7c5c9439a76a9cdca63ef6ddc1e2f160.jpg

That is only valid for noise going outside your place. You must make a hell of a noise in your bedroom. :-)

Not really, works as acoustic damping (standing waves), not as insulation neither in nor out.

Posted

Nail empty egg-cartons to the outside walls.

No, paperboard egg cartons works for acoustics only on smooth hard surfaces, they will not insulate and reduce noise from outside. The hippie-age way improving a garage to be a recording studio.

Best sound insulation is heavy materials (like stone/cement) and reducing vibrations between surfaces (with mineral wool like brand Rockwool).

First and cheapest thing to check and improve is unwanted openings toward noise source, such as bad closing window frames (rubber band) or ventilation holes (can even be small openings where aircon pipes comes in). Noise/sound loves to find its way in through small holes.

Double glass windows will improve some. Sealed frames are more important and a thicker glass like 6mm instead of 3mm or 4mm, or use laminated 8mm made of two 4mm glass plates glued together; best performance from a double window with a laminated 8mm and a single 6mm, in of course a solid non vibrating frame. Maximum is achieved from two sets of separated frames and the glass slightly angled and few degrees, so standing sound waves between the glasses are killed (thats how to make a window in a recording studio, but may be a bit over the target for normal room, especially if walls and ceiling etc. are not up to maximum insulation).

The white comfort bricks are good, especially if you make double walls with mineral wool between the two walls; even better if one of the double walls is made of solid bricks. Construction wise the solid brick wall shall be where you have a foundation to carry it, as the white comfort bricks are not so heavy.

Ceiling can also be a cause for noise, but a bit trickier to deal with. Mineral wool above gypsum plates can improve.

Acoustic non-reflective materials may help a bit inside the room, but will not be a major improvement, such as thick curtains or other non-reflective materials for example empty egg cartons

Thought I mentioned that in my post already. Do people read the posts actually...nada

smile.png Yes, you wrote some of it similar, but different from me and not detailed. My post was a reply to OP and a remark to egg trays, not a comment to your post; however confirms some of the good points you made. Often you will see posters writing their advice or opinion, even another poster are of same opinion or gives similar advises.

Posted

I could arrange to install a 75mm thick EPS on a 25mm batten system to your external wall finished with a decorative polymer render.

Total thickness would be 100mm from face of external brickwork.

PM me for details

Posted

I could arrange to install a 75mm thick EPS on a 25mm batten system to your external wall finished with a decorative polymer render.

Total thickness would be 100mm from face of external brickwork.

PM me for details

EPS? .... Expanded Poly Styrene?

Great insulation for both sound and heat, but extremely flammable and the fumes are toxic when burning......

Has this tuff been treated in anyway???

Posted

Laguna nightclub has managed to dampen the noise to the outside world. You should ask one of the manager there how they did it

I think they achieved that noise reduction by simply paying more tea money. :)

Posted

The white comfort bricks are good, especially if you make double walls with mineral wool between the two walls; even better if one of the double walls is made of solid bricks. Construction wise the solid brick wall shall be where you have a foundation to carry it, as the white comfort bricks are not so heavy.

KhunPer -- what is a "comfort brick?" Haven't found any meaningful results for this term when searching the internet. Is it something specific to Thailand? Are they something like concrete block?

Thanks

Posted

earplugs

Maybe. But beware of ear infections if you're going to be using these things for extended periods very often. Tossing used ones every day is probably advisable.

Posted

The white comfort bricks are good, especially if you make double walls with mineral wool between the two walls; even better if one of the double walls is made of solid bricks. Construction wise the solid brick wall shall be where you have a foundation to carry it, as the white comfort bricks are not so heavy.

KhunPer -- what is a "comfort brick?" Haven't found any meaningful results for this term when searching the internet. Is it something specific to Thailand? Are they something like concrete block?

Thanks

I am not 100% sure but I think he is referring to the hollow low density concrete bricks used frequently over here to fill the void between the columns over here. They are absolute rubbish really which is why they always plaster over them. I had some sitting outside once and just the rain deteriorated them to the extent that they just crumpled when I tried to pick them up...

There is also a form of what appears to be clay brick which is used but I suspect they are more expensive (they don't seem to be used as much), they are orange coloured.

Posted (edited)

The white comfort bricks are good, especially if you make double walls with mineral wool between the two walls; even better if one of the double walls is made of solid bricks. Construction wise the solid brick wall shall be where you have a foundation to carry it, as the white comfort bricks are not so heavy.

KhunPer -- what is a "comfort brick?" Haven't found any meaningful results for this term when searching the internet. Is it something specific to Thailand? Are they something like concrete block?

Thanks

“Comfort block” is the Thai name for the white gas concrete (cement) blocks or bricks used since around the 1960’ies (or earlier) in Europe. In Thailand it’s a fairly new product and marketed as giving a better comfort inside your house (keep it cool). smile.png

Edit: Wikipedia info & link

Autoclaved aerated concrete (AAC), also known as autoclaved cellular concrete (ACC), autoclaved lightweight concrete (ALC), autoclaved concrete, cellular concrete, porous concrete, Ytong, Hebel Block, Aircrete, Thermalite, Magicrete or BCA, was invented in the mid-1920s by the Swedish architect and inventor Johan Axel Eriksson.[1][2] It is a lightweight, precast building material that simultaneously provides structure, insulation, and fire- and mold-resistance. AAC products include blocks, wall panels, floor and roof panels, cladding (facade) panels and lintels.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autoclaved_aerated_concrete

Edited by khunPer
Posted

The white comfort bricks are good, especially if you make double walls with mineral wool between the two walls; even better if one of the double walls is made of solid bricks. Construction wise the solid brick wall shall be where you have a foundation to carry it, as the white comfort bricks are not so heavy.

KhunPer -- what is a "comfort brick?" Haven't found any meaningful results for this term when searching the internet. Is it something specific to Thailand? Are they something like concrete block?

Thanks

“Comfort block” is the Thai name for the white gas concrete (cement) blocks or bricks used since around the 1960’ies (or earlier) in Europe. In Thailand it’s a fairly new product and marketed as giving a better comfort inside your house (keep it cool). smile.png

Edit: Wikipedia info & link

Autoclaved aerated concrete (AAC), also known as autoclaved cellular concrete (ACC), autoclaved lightweight concrete (ALC), autoclaved concrete, cellular concrete, porous concrete, Ytong, Hebel Block, Aircrete, Thermalite, Magicrete or BCA, was invented in the mid-1920s by the Swedish architect and inventor Johan Axel Eriksson.[1][2] It is a lightweight, precast building material that simultaneously provides structure, insulation, and fire- and mold-resistance. AAC products include blocks, wall panels, floor and roof panels, cladding (facade) panels and lintels.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autoclaved_aerated_concrete

WOW !!! Thanks for that KhunPer, I had never seen the stuff before (in Australia and New Zealand), I thought it was just a cheap Thai concrete block !! I didn't understand it was purposely made that way for a reason. The link was much appreciated. You learn something everyday, thanks.

  • Like 1
Posted

As per my original post where I am planning to put (in my case steel studs / battens on the concrete walls with gypsum (drywall) sheeting and fill the gap with fibre glass "batts" for both sound and heat insulation I found this site, a Thai company :

http://www.microfiber.co.th/images/microfiber_eng/page_product_tone.php

http://www.microfiber.co.th/images/microfiber_eng/page_product_fiber.php

also this in Thai but you can use Google Translate...

http://www.topinsulation.com/sfg.htm

Hope it helps, I can't see it being a very expensive solution, especially if your only doing the 2 external walls of a bedroom.

Posted

The white comfort bricks are good, especially if you make double walls with mineral wool between the two walls; even better if one of the double walls is made of solid bricks. Construction wise the solid brick wall shall be where you have a foundation to carry it, as the white comfort bricks are not so heavy.

KhunPer -- what is a "comfort brick?" Haven't found any meaningful results for this term when searching the internet. Is it something specific to Thailand? Are they something like concrete block?

Thanks

“Comfort block” is the Thai name for the white gas concrete (cement) blocks or bricks used since around the 1960’ies (or earlier) in Europe. In Thailand it’s a fairly new product and marketed as giving a better comfort inside your house (keep it cool). smile.png

Edit: Wikipedia info & link

Autoclaved aerated concrete (AAC), also known as autoclaved cellular concrete (ACC), autoclaved lightweight concrete (ALC), autoclaved concrete, cellular concrete, porous concrete, Ytong, Hebel Block, Aircrete, Thermalite, Magicrete or BCA, was invented in the mid-1920s by the Swedish architect and inventor Johan Axel Eriksson.[1][2] It is a lightweight, precast building material that simultaneously provides structure, insulation, and fire- and mold-resistance. AAC products include blocks, wall panels, floor and roof panels, cladding (facade) panels and lintels.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autoclaved_aerated_concrete

Thank you, KhunPer. I trust then, that if I go to a shop that stocks concrete construction materials and ask for "comfort blocks," they will understand what it is I seek. Or is there a different Thai language term? As a previous poster observed, standard "concrete blocks" here in LOS leave a lot to be desired. I would like to get a few of these "comfort blocks" to play with... To leave in the rain, beat on with a hammer -- whatever is necessary to learn of their strengths and weaknesses. I have a "fence wall" that is in need of repair, owing to damage from some trees. The idea of building a higher wall to help block sound is somewhat appealing to me. At least enough to think about a bit (not wanting to decorate my house inside or out with old egg cartons, free or not, available or not). WAY too many people in this neighborhood seem to think it's their God Given Right to collect a wide variety of dogs, each of which bark or howl or whine in a different way, but in groups. Not to mention the trucks going by selling things with P.A. systems (do they really think I will want to buy their products more if they disturb my early morning sleep? What the hell ARE they thinking???).

Really, I live in quite a good Thai neighborhood, except for a few odd quirks. Grumble, grumble, grumble...

  • Like 1
Posted

The white comfort bricks are good, especially if you make double walls with mineral wool between the two walls; even better if one of the double walls is made of solid bricks. Construction wise the solid brick wall shall be where you have a foundation to carry it, as the white comfort bricks are not so heavy.

KhunPer -- what is a "comfort brick?" Haven't found any meaningful results for this term when searching the internet. Is it something specific to Thailand? Are they something like concrete block?

Thanks

“Comfort block” is the Thai name for the white gas concrete (cement) blocks or bricks used since around the 1960’ies (or earlier) in Europe. In Thailand it’s a fairly new product and marketed as giving a better comfort inside your house (keep it cool). smile.png

Edit: Wikipedia info & link

Autoclaved aerated concrete (AAC), also known as autoclaved cellular concrete (ACC), autoclaved lightweight concrete (ALC), autoclaved concrete, cellular concrete, porous concrete, Ytong, Hebel Block, Aircrete, Thermalite, Magicrete or BCA, was invented in the mid-1920s by the Swedish architect and inventor Johan Axel Eriksson.[1][2] It is a lightweight, precast building material that simultaneously provides structure, insulation, and fire- and mold-resistance. AAC products include blocks, wall panels, floor and roof panels, cladding (facade) panels and lintels.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autoclaved_aerated_concrete

WOW !!! Thanks for that KhunPer, I had never seen the stuff before (in Australia and New Zealand), I thought it was just a cheap Thai concrete block !! I didn't understand it was purposely made that way for a reason. The link was much appreciated. You learn something everyday, thanks.

wai.gif Also thanks to you RigPig for making look for it at Wikipedia.
I’m so used to the gas concrete from my homeland, Denmark, that I believe they are well known all over the Western World and only newer in countries like Thailand. When I was young in the early 60’ies many people made their summerhouses from with the gassed blocks, actually they could build the house themselves, just the foundation was in place. They used the about 20 cm thick block and no extra insulation – heating was not so expensive in those days – and outside they just painted the walls with acrylic paint. The houses still stand strong and functional some 40+ years after, only wall maintenance are some extra layer of paint.
I had an impression they originalle were a Scandinavian or German invention, but I also learned something new today from the Wikipedia look-up.
Later came the thinner and larger 10 cm wide plates you just glue together (can stabilize with a special gas concrete nail). Extremely easy to build a wall; a saw will finish openings for windows and doors and you can even saw bows and fancy holes. Today many Scandinavian houses are made using burned red bricks outside and gassed bricked inside, with 10 cm mineral wool insulation between the walls. The large blocks come in full wall or room height.
I have a background in Sound business and been making both recording studios and sound design for discotheques, including reducing the “noise level” to outside; and inside for recording studios, or between studio area and control room. A combination of burned bricks (heavy), mineral wool (membrane vibration damping) and gas concrete showed to a an effective solution, especially if the foundations were separated using a hard pressed mineral wool block between wall foundation and indoor cement floor floating on sand. With the right solution for windows and doors – and ceiling – we could achieve some 50-60 dB reduction in overall sound pressure level (low frequencies are the worst to kill, like sound from trucks outside or bass and kick drum from inside).
When I was planning my Thai house late 2008 I was looking for reasonable materials, knowing I had to use something familiar for the Thai workers, not too advanced and also affordable. My Thai building constructor made me aware of what he named as a brand new product, “Comfort Blocks” from Cement Thai. However, he said, quite costly as the price is three to four times as high as the normally used – not to good – blocks you mentioned in your above post. Well not really new to me, just the kind of blocks I had been looking for, and I did not mind to pay extra for the benefits. We did all room walls in gas concrete blocks; and all outside walls double, as I did not want visible posts in corners and other places on a wall. That gave an about 10 cm air gap in between the double wall, which is also insulation – in older time Scandinavian houses were made with double brick walls and an air gap as heat insulation. Even I did install aircon in all rooms they are hardly ever used – I have seven aircons and only a couple of them has ever been switched on – so in long term money saving to use the gas concrete blocks, especially as double wall.
For outdoor walls, like sidewall on balconies, I decided for a single of the usual cheap block solution, as I needed no insulation. When the walls were up and the sun shining, I could feel the balcony got quite warm and the wall were almost hot on the shadow side. To solve the problem I asked for an extra normal block inside and insulation between the two layers – that solved the problem, but the end costs with insulation was close to doing it “right” from the beginning: gas concrete blocks. whistling.gif
We also used burned clay bricks, you mentioned them, for some purposes; the ones with air tubes for outdoor walls and the solid ones – which is quite like a Scandinavian brick, but smaller – were extra strength were needed, you can actually brick up a strong post. smile.png
Posted

wai.gif Also thanks to you RigPig for making look for it at Wikipedia.
I’m so used to the gas concrete from my homeland, Denmark, that I believe they are well known all over the Western World and only newer in countries like Thailand. When I was young in the early 60’ies many people made their summerhouses from with the gassed blocks, actually they could build the house themselves, just the foundation was in place. They used the about 20 cm thick block and no extra insulation – heating was not so expensive in those days – and outside they just painted the walls with acrylic paint. The houses still stand strong and functional some 40+ years after, only wall maintenance are some extra layer of paint.
I had an impression they originalle were a Scandinavian or German invention, but I also learned something new today from the Wikipedia look-up.
Later came the thinner and larger 10 cm wide plates you just glue together (can stabilize with a special gas concrete nail). Extremely easy to build a wall; a saw will finish openings for windows and doors and you can even saw bows and fancy holes. Today many Scandinavian houses are made using burned red bricks outside and gassed bricked inside, with 10 cm mineral wool insulation between the walls. The large blocks come in full wall or room height.
I have a background in Sound business and been making both recording studios and sound design for discotheques, including reducing the “noise level” to outside; and inside for recording studios, or between studio area and control room. A combination of burned bricks (heavy), mineral wool (membrane vibration damping) and gas concrete showed to a an effective solution, especially if the foundations were separated using a hard pressed mineral wool block between wall foundation and indoor cement floor floating on sand. With the right solution for windows and doors – and ceiling – we could achieve some 50-60 dB reduction in overall sound pressure level (low frequencies are the worst to kill, like sound from trucks outside or bass and kick drum from inside).
When I was planning my Thai house late 2008 I was looking for reasonable materials, knowing I had to use something familiar for the Thai workers, not too advanced and also affordable. My Thai building constructor made me aware of what he named as a brand new product, “Comfort Blocks” from Cement Thai. However, he said, quite costly as the price is three to four times as high as the normally used – not to good – blocks you mentioned in your above post. Well not really new to me, just the kind of blocks I had been looking for, and I did not mind to pay extra for the benefits. We did all room walls in gas concrete blocks; and all outside walls double, as I did not want visible posts in corners and other places on a wall. That gave an about 10 cm air gap in between the double wall, which is also insulation – in older time Scandinavian houses were made with double brick walls and an air gap as heat insulation. Even I did install aircon in all rooms they are hardly ever used – I have seven aircons and only a couple of them has ever been switched on – so in long term money saving to use the gas concrete blocks, especially as double wall.
For outdoor walls, like sidewall on balconies, I decided for a single of the usual cheap block solution, as I needed no insulation. When the walls were up and the sun shining, I could feel the balcony got quite warm and the wall were almost hot on the shadow side. To solve the problem I asked for an extra normal block inside and insulation between the two layers – that solved the problem, but the end costs with insulation was close to doing it “right” from the beginning: gas concrete blocks. whistling.gif
We also used burned clay bricks, you mentioned them, for some purposes; the ones with air tubes for outdoor walls and the solid ones – which is quite like a Scandinavian brick, but smaller – were extra strength were needed, you can actually brick up a strong post. smile.png

That's REALLY interesting, and if you think about it makes perfect sense.

I guess the biggest problem is the manner in which the materials are used over here, if it can be put in a hole and plastered over, it's all good 5 5 5.

But seriously thanks for that, it's a handy piece of information

  • Like 1
Posted

I build a new house with light blocks as double wall that is perfect in any aspect to noise and cool/heat isolation.

I also isolated and old house with EPS form but from outside only and cover with Sherra “wood look”. It looks nice and easy to maintain.

The windows are the biggest problem regarding noise. Not has really double glass windows in Thailand so it must make as special order with two glass in the windows.

Posted

There have been 3 basic recommendations:

1. I do something to myself such as use ear plugs or fill my ears with "white" noise. I am one of those who can only use ear plugs for swimming. Even on an airplane, they just keep me awake. Maybe white noise could be interesting.

2. Put some sort of insulation or sound reducing fibers above the ceiling in the attic. This will not be easy. The only ceiling access is a small opening in a bathroom. This opening is maybe 10 meters from the exterior wall. I am not clear whether it was recommended to cover the entire ceiling or just near the front wall where the noise comes in.

3 Do something to the walls. The most important thing being to block any openings. Hopefully some of this will happen with the double glazing installation.

The suggestions for adding a layer to the exterior wall will take some work, even though one person suggests they can do it for me but I did not PM them yet.

This leaves the option of doing something on the interior side of the wall. The "comfort bricks" would take up too much space. There are several suggestions for a dry wall type addition. With some it is suggested that a gap needs to be created, one person even suggested that the European style is to have the second wall suspended from the ceiling to dampen the noise. Others suggested the wall could just be put over the existing wall, using things like "Microtone" made by the Samut Prakan firm, Microfiber. Another was called Aoustiblock, made in the USA. These last two seem by far the easeist, if they are available locally.

The last idea was to use egg cartons I too have some fond memories of their use but do not plan to re-live that experience. I have seen the cardboard ones available but mostly these days I see the plastic ones.

Thanks for all of the suggestions and now which option should I use?

Posted

There have been 3 basic recommendations:

1. I do something to myself such as use ear plugs or fill my ears with "white" noise. I am one of those who can only use ear plugs for swimming. Even on an airplane, they just keep me awake. Maybe white noise could be interesting.

2. Put some sort of insulation or sound reducing fibers above the ceiling in the attic. This will not be easy. The only ceiling access is a small opening in a bathroom. This opening is maybe 10 meters from the exterior wall. I am not clear whether it was recommended to cover the entire ceiling or just near the front wall where the noise comes in.

3 Do something to the walls. The most important thing being to block any openings. Hopefully some of this will happen with the double glazing installation.

The suggestions for adding a layer to the exterior wall will take some work, even though one person suggests they can do it for me but I did not PM them yet.

This leaves the option of doing something on the interior side of the wall. The "comfort bricks" would take up too much space. There are several suggestions for a dry wall type addition. With some it is suggested that a gap needs to be created, one person even suggested that the European style is to have the second wall suspended from the ceiling to dampen the noise. Others suggested the wall could just be put over the existing wall, using things like "Microtone" made by the Samut Prakan firm, Microfiber. Another was called Aoustiblock, made in the USA. These last two seem by far the easeist, if they are available locally.

The last idea was to use egg cartons I too have some fond memories of their use but do not plan to re-live that experience. I have seen the cardboard ones available but mostly these days I see the plastic ones.

Thanks for all of the suggestions and now which option should I use?

Well it all comes down to money I guess.

And how effective it needs to be.

For me (as I have suggested) the drywall (gypsum sheeting), battening the walls and filling the gap with fibre glass insulation would be the easiest and least costly method. I take it you are not living next to a train track and the noise is created by humans and traffic. You will need to double glaze and as someone suggested running the 2 panes of glass at a slight angle to each other will help too. The ceiling will also have to be insulated, personally I will be using the fibre glass with the "foil" on one side for that, with the foil side up. This will help insulate both noise and heat as it is a reflective barrier for both.

There are a couple of other "up sides" to this method, you will save in heating, or more importantly cooling the room and the gap in the walls can be used for running cables and adding power outlets (make sure the cable used has a ground and is double insulated). Mice and rats will not nest in glass wool, so vermin shouldn't be a problem either. I personally will be using metal "battens" because of the resistance to termites but there is probably not much wrong with using treated wood.

Oh and don't forget to "fill" in any holes to the outside, regardless of where they may be. That expandable foam spray would probably good for this, depending where you find them of course, just remember that stuff is porous and will allow water through it, it does fill gaps good though.

Good luck with whatever you choose, it would be nice to find out things like costs and effectiveness. Maybe any problems you encountered after you have gone through with it.

Cheers

Tony

Posted

The white comfort bricks are good, especially if you make double walls with mineral wool between the two walls; even better if one of the double walls is made of solid bricks. Construction wise the solid brick wall shall be where you have a foundation to carry it, as the white comfort bricks are not so heavy.

KhunPer -- what is a "comfort brick?" Haven't found any meaningful results for this term when searching the internet. Is it something specific to Thailand? Are they something like concrete block?

Thanks

“Comfort block” is the Thai name for the white gas concrete (cement) blocks or bricks used since around the 1960’ies (or earlier) in Europe. In Thailand it’s a fairly new product and marketed as giving a better comfort inside your house (keep it cool). smile.png

Edit: Wikipedia info & link

Autoclaved aerated concrete (AAC), also known as autoclaved cellular concrete (ACC), autoclaved lightweight concrete (ALC), autoclaved concrete, cellular concrete, porous concrete, Ytong, Hebel Block, Aircrete, Thermalite, Magicrete or BCA, was invented in the mid-1920s by the Swedish architect and inventor Johan Axel Eriksson.[1][2] It is a lightweight, precast building material that simultaneously provides structure, insulation, and fire- and mold-resistance. AAC products include blocks, wall panels, floor and roof panels, cladding (facade) panels and lintels.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autoclaved_aerated_concrete

Thank you, KhunPer. I trust then, that if I go to a shop that stocks concrete construction materials and ask for "comfort blocks," they will understand what it is I seek. Or is there a different Thai language term? As a previous poster observed, standard "concrete blocks" here in LOS leave a lot to be desired. I would like to get a few of these "comfort blocks" to play with... To leave in the rain, beat on with a hammer -- whatever is necessary to learn of their strengths and weaknesses. I have a "fence wall" that is in need of repair, owing to damage from some trees. The idea of building a higher wall to help block sound is somewhat appealing to me. At least enough to think about a bit (not wanting to decorate my house inside or out with old egg cartons, free or not, available or not). WAY too many people in this neighborhood seem to think it's their God Given Right to collect a wide variety of dogs, each of which bark or howl or whine in a different way, but in groups. Not to mention the trucks going by selling things with P.A. systems (do they really think I will want to buy their products more if they disturb my early morning sleep? What the hell ARE they thinking???).

Really, I live in quite a good Thai neighborhood, except for a few odd quirks. Grumble, grumble, grumble...

Sorry for not replying to your post before, RedQualia.
I do not know if Thais calls the Comfort Blocks something else, “Comfort Blocks“ was the name mentioned by my Thai building constructor and I had no understanding problems and got the correct products when using that word. Difficult to search for, at the Siam Cement’s (SCG) web pages are mainly in Thai language, the blocks may even be imported, but try to ask in Home Mart, that’s the outlet chain stores.
The spongy structure will let the gassed concrete block suck up water, and dry up again. I have no experience if they over time may be weakened if not treated, either by paint or plaster (+ paint).
For an outdoor wall I would use the burned clay bricks, for example the ones with air tubes inside (I actually did use them for outdoor walls). That wall can be left without plastering it if needed, which may even look nice (if bricks are laid nice and even). Reducing noise is first of all a question of a heavy material, however depending of frequencies. High frequencies are fairly easy to kill and/or stop, whilst low frequencies, from for example heavy trucks, are difficult. Also be aware of reflections, i.e. you may brick up a wall, but various houses may reflect sound and the noise will still find a way “over” the wall. An uneven surface kill or at least reduce sound better than a smooth surface, as it will be reflected in many directions, for example the uneven surface from the red bricks I mentioned, or painted comfort blocks instead of a nice smooth plaster wall. However acoustics and noise reduction can be a very difficult science to work with, and advices given without knowing the circumstances may not work.
Just a (another) remark about egg-cartons: They work for acoustic reflection of higher frequencies (sponged uneven surface) but will not work as noise reduction or insulation. Instead of using egg cartons, Siam Cement SCG has very decorative acoustic panels that may even look exclusive or fancy.
Posted

As i mention earlier are the windows the biggest problem. This is no. 1 to fix. I have houses with normal slide and hinges windows and also PVC type hinges windows who are much better. Anyone here knows windows who are good to avoid noise.? In Thailand of course.

Posted

KhunPer,

I think the "gas concrete" blocks you refer to are called Foam or Aerated Concrete in the West.

Another name is Autoclaved Concrete.

see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autoclaved_aerated_concrete for details.

It is indeed magic stuff. Very strong and light, with good insulating properties.

Thanks Jackflash, wai.gif

I have posted the wiki-link before. Some in the West also just refers to them as gas concrete or gassed concrete, in Scandinavia called “gasbeton”.

The question was merely about what they are called in Thailand, as I've only been told the expression “Comfort Blocks”.

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