First Time Backpacker

[geenius]

I woke up on friday and decided that i wanted to do something a bit different, im a 21 year old student (so not many ties).. i booked a flight out to thailand, ill be doing it solo, and just wondered if you had any tips, advice or recommendations. I know its been covered before and ive tried to read up on them, but if anyone has any advice relevant to me.

I have about 45 days total, I want to party a bit, chill out on the beach and make some new friends. I want to have the experience more than just see the sights so i want to stay flexible and avoid excessive traveling.

Bangkok: Arrive, 1 ngt & 1 day, see it briefly.

Koh Samui : any recommendations on how to travel? Night Bus? or Minibus?, i was thinking of staying in Chaweng? i heard its good to meet people there but not sure how true this is?

Koh Phangan : Full moon party on the 13th i wanted to go down there for a few days enjoy the party etc, not sure about accommodation, will i have to get there early to get a beach hut, im on a pretty tight budget (250bht p/d max for accommodation)

Ko Tao : Looks amazing, anyone been? would i still be able to watch the football (sad i know but im a fiend for the england games)

then my plan gets hazy, i really dont know what else i wanted to do.

Phuket & Phi Phi tempt me but they look pretty far away on the map, i dont really want to waste to much time traveling from place to place.

Then i thought i would head back to Bangkok for a few days so i could see the town when i was a bit more adapted to the thai way of life and was a bit more sure of how much cash i had left for the last few days.

Your help advice etc is much appreciated i leave Saturday (3rd June), cheers!

Edited May 29, 2006 by geenius

[cdnvic]

A few tips;

Hydration is a challenge if you aren't used to really hot, humid weather. Drink water constantly, especially when consuming alcohol. Don't rely on alcoholic beverages for hydration.

Expect everything to take double the time you estimate, and remember that you will tire easier in the heat. Relax, pick something to do and do it, don't try to do everything at once.

Smiling people will rip you off just as much as the guy in the dark alley. This includes other westerners. Help others in every way except lending them money. The chances of getting your pockets picked here are probably not more that they would be at home, but the disruption in your plans, and the difficulty of replacing bank cards, etc is much greater. I highly recommend carrying at least some Amex travellers checks for emergencies as they can be replaced almost instantly if needed.

Never leave your passport as a deposit on anything.

Much electronic goods found in street markets are crap.

Just because the locals wear flip flops while driving motorcycles doesn't mean it isn't a stupid thing to do.

Don't go near drugs or people that use them. They really really really really really mean it when they say it's illegal here.

You are a tourist and will not get the same price on things as resident expats, or local Thais. Don't freak out about it, it's still pretty ###### cheap.

Bargining is a sport, play it and have fun. Don't get too serious over it.

Don't display anger openly, yell, or raise your voice. Just because Thais smile alot, doesn't mean they can't kick your ass.

Don't worry if you don't get everything done that you wanted to. Enjoy everything you can, and you can always come back if needed.

Good luck!

cv

[LaoPo]

Your help advice etc is much appreciated i leave Saturday (3rd June), cheers!

Buy a 'Lonely Planet' book* about Thailand...it's all there.

*or other travel book for backpackers

Have a nice trip...........................DO NOT FALL IN LOVE with the first girl you see (and leave the rest also......... )

LaoPo

[Totster]

Soap and clean clothes are very important, as is deoderant.

totster

[BambinA]

I woke up on friday and decided that i wanted to do something a bit different, im a 21 year old student (so not many ties)..

if you want a sugar mama or Mrs. Robinson.. you have me

are u canadian jeese or Scampy Boy??

[britmaveric]

DO NOT FALL IN LOVE with the first girl you see (and leave the rest also......... )

LaoPo[/color]

The budget he's on I don't think he'll have that problem unless its fellow backpack love!!!

[jackr]

DO NOT FALL IN LOVE with the first girl you see (and leave the rest also......... )

LaoPo[/color]

The budget he's on I don't think he'll have that problem unless its fellow backpack love!!!

Yeah, the fine will take away a nights' accommodation

[LaoPo]

I have about 45 days total, I want to party a bit, chill out on the beach and make some new friends.

Forgot to advise you to buy at least 2x45 condoms*; the point with you young lads is that your hormones in a hot country like Thailand start bubbling like the lava on a vulcano

*the size and quality of local condoms are so-so....................so I'm told

LaoPo

[monochaser]

The Lonely planet covers this stuff really well. I thought I stopped by the wrong site for a minute

[BangnaBound]

If you can’t pack everything in a 40 liter bag, you have too much stuff. Having your laundry done for you here is quite cheap and efficient.

[sbk]

You can also buy lightweight cotton clothing here pretty cheap (unless you are a giant, that is).

Getting to Samui: do not take the Khao san road bus, I advise either fly (Airasia has cheap flights to Surat Thani-check out their website) or take the train. People get ripped off on the Khao San road buses all the time, it is super cheap but if you lose your stuff it isn't so cheap after all.

Full Moon party advice: if you want to stay in Hadrin you must arrive 2-3 days beforehand. This is the low season but all the cheap accomodation goes first.

Koh Tao has tv, don't worry but you will have to search a bit for cheaper accomodation there as well as Phi Phi.

[Khutan]

<snip>if you want a sugar mama or Mrs. Robinson.. you have me<snip>

You never told me that

[fisherd3]

personally I think Samui makes a great base for a back pack holiday, 250 bht a night is cutting a bit fine for accommadation, I paid 400 bht for a fan shack on the beach, at Chaweng Gardens Beach Hotel, slap bang in the middle of Chaweng and 'on the beach'. I'll email you a pic and some more if you send me your email address.

On a limited budget I would forget Phuket, Phi Phi, I don't think Phuket has the same appeal for backpackers as Samui and the soul of both Phi Phi and Phuket have been seriously damaged by the Tsunami tragedy, a Thai person would not go there...ghosts. Of course commercial interests will tell you differently.

I would base my trip on Samui and full moon Party, just go over for the party sleep on the beach come back next day as people do, glean the best travel deal etc when you get to Samui. Stay in Chaweng maybe move down to Lamai if you feel bored but Chaweng is the place to be, Lamai only for a change.

As stated above do not get involved with anything illegal, drugs being the most obvious, the biggest problem you have is that you will never know who will do the deal with you (any deal) and then turn you in to the police. You must remember that in general Thai people are not very well off financially and will do anything to feed the kids, as most people do. Remember this well: "You farang they Thai" end of story.

There is word here in Pattaya of a new boat that is doing the Samui/Pattaya overnight trip for about 1700bht return, again this would be a worthwhile excursion because it is cheap, Pattaya does not hold a candle to Samui in my opinion but is cheaper, and if you were running out of money at the end of your trip, you could get the boat to Pattaya and then you would only be a 200bht bus journey away from Bangkok airport. Come to think of it that might be a cheap way into Samui as well avoiding a horrendous long bus journey.

Try to avoid long bus journeys because although they might seem romantic in UK they are killers and always go on the best bus available like V.I.P. or NO.1 bus, cheap buses are a very false economy.

If you have questions P.M. me.

[ProfessorFart]

Head for KSRd and go with the flow............

Ah to go travelling again!

[toptuan]

I'm living in Thailand but just came back from doing the backpacker-on-an-island thing in some of the areas you mentioned.

Something that hasn't been mentioned....from personal experience: Either cover your skin (T-shirts or shorts notwithstanding) or buy effective sun block (30 to 50 strength). Get a hat while you're here.

The Thai sun can seriously burn tender, North American or U.K. skin (guess right?) in just a couple of hours (slight burn in 30 minutes!). A couple of hours sunning yourself on a boat to an island can totally ruin things for you when you get there.

Thais laugh at westerners who lay like beached whales, sunning themselves on most tourist beaches here in Thailand. It's for good reason! (besides the overweight, whitish, beached whale appearance).

Edited May 30, 2006 by toptuan

[fisherd3]

I'm living in Thailand but just came back from doing the backpacker-on-an-island thing in some of the areas you mentioned.

Something that hasn't been mentioned....from personal experience: Either cover your skin (T-shirts or shorts notwithstanding) or buy effective sun block (30 to 50 strength). Get a hat while you're here.

The Thai sun can seriously burn tender, North American or U.K. skin (guess right?) in just a couple of hours (slight burn in 30 minutes!). A couple of hours sunning yourself on a boat to an island can totally ruin things for you when you get there.

Thais laugh at westerners who lay like beached whales, sunning themselves on most tourist beaches here in Thailand. It's for good reason! (besides the overweight, whitish, beached whale appearance).

This is absolutely correct, go and frolic on the sea for half an hour on a lilo in the Midday sun and end up in bed for a couple of days.

The actual rule is (learnt from Hawaiin (?) Tropic rep in Barbados) Never go in direct sun in tropics between 11am and 3pm , this applies to anyone if you are of a lighter complexion you should probably never go in the direct sun and wear factor 15 sunscreen minimum.

Apart from the fact that it is instantly unpleasant it also has very bad long term conotations for your skins appearance and cancer risk and watch out for falling asleep in the sun when intoxicated.

Edited May 30, 2006 by fisherd3

[meadish_sweetball]

Everyone is different, but personally I'd skip Koh Samui altogether unless you're into crowds and desperately need a comfort zone with wide screen television football, British louts and German beer.

Koh Phangan and Koh Tao are nice though.

IMO, the most beautiful part of Thailand is the Andaman Sea Coast. The Gulf islands are great too, but do not compare.

Nice places on the Andaman coast are Krabi (but I'd avoid Ao Nang as it is too exploited these days, and go to Raileh Beach and further on down to Koh Lanta - perhaps cross over into Trang province too, there are a few nice islands and beaches there too - but Trang is still pretty much off the beaten track in comparison to the mass tourism in Phuket and lately Krabi).

The Phi Phi islands are arguably the most beautiful islands with accommodation and amenities you can get. They are rebuilt from the tsunami and just waiting for people like you to show up again. Before the tsunami they were becoming backpacker party central, mainly for Scandinavian backpackers, so if your fancies lean towards tan blondes, you will not be disappointed there.

[Jockstar]

Everyone is different, but personally I'd skip Koh Samui altogether unless you're into crowds and desperately need a comfort zone with wide screen television football, British louts and German beer.

Koh Phangan and Koh Tao are nice though.

IMO, the most beautiful part of Thailand is the Andaman Sea Coast. The Gulf islands are great too, but do not compare.

Nice places on the Andaman coast are Krabi (but I'd avoid Ao Nang as it is too exploited these days, and go to Raileh Beach and further on down to Koh Lanta - perhaps cross over into Trang province too, there are a few nice islands and beaches there too - but Trang is still pretty much off the beaten track in comparison to the mass tourism in Phuket and lately Krabi).

The Phi Phi islands are arguably the most beautiful islands with accommodation and amenities you can get. They are rebuilt from the tsunami and just waiting for people like you to show up again. Before the tsunami they were becoming backpacker party central, mainly for Scandinavian backpackers, so if your fancies lean towards tan blondes, you will not be disappointed there.

Have to agree with Meadish on this. I'd forget about Samui. I hated the 2 days i spent there. McDs, pizza hut, plastic Irish pubs etc etc. If you go to a beautiful island. Would you want to see all this crap? BTW. JUst my opinion. But i'd second Railey and Koh Lanta. But get way from Saladang town and head further south. My favourite place in LOS is Ko Lanta. Railey is also very high on my list.

[The Dan Sai Kid]

Shower twice a day and wear clean clothes everyday!

[toptuan]

My vote:

Thumbs down Koh Samui (overbuilt, expensive, typcial tourist traps, crime, surly locals, etc.)

Thumbs up Koh Lanta

1. For accommodations: especially NW side of island and National Park area on SW side
   

1. Take in the cave tour at Tham Khao Mai Kaew
   

Inexpensive two-hour guided tour includes battery headlamps, spectacular hike through luxurient jungle and rubber plantation, cave bats, and if you're lucky--a 3-meter King Cobra gliding across your jungle path--as I experienced!)

Edited May 30, 2006 by toptuan

[dantilley]

OK, everyone else seems to have covered a lot of the essential general advice, I'd second the advice about dressing smartly; keeping clean and looking smart will go a long way in gaining you respect with Thai people. Drugs, be very careful, especially in Bangkok or heavily touristed areas. And try to pick up some of the Thai language.

So, to pick up the places you mention below, assuming low costs is probably pretty high on your priority list:

Bangkok: Arrive, 1 ngt & 1 day, see it briefly.

Try to stay for a few more days initially, it's a fun place and get yourself away from Khao San Road.

Koh Samui : any recommendations on how to travel? Night Bus? or Minibus?, i was thinking of staying in Chaweng? i heard its good to meet people there but not sure how true this is?

Koh Phangan : Full moon party on the 13th i wanted to go down there for a few days enjoy the party etc, not sure about accommodation, will i have to get there early to get a beach hut, im on a pretty tight budget (250bht p/d max for accommodation)

You may as well head straight for Pha Ngan and skip Samui, which will also give you more time to find accommodation before the full moon party. Accommodation for as little as 150 Baht can be found on Haad Rin, or on other beaches like Haad Yuan (east coast) or Haad Yao (west coast). Koh Pga Ngan is one of my favourite Thai islands and you'll find it a hard place to leave!

Ko Tao : Looks amazing, anyone been? would i still be able to watch the football (sad i know but im a fiend for the england games)

Good for diving but you may feel left out if you're on the island and not enrolled on a diving course. Good beach parties, though, and no problem to watch football.

then my plan gets hazy, i really dont know what else i wanted to do.

Phuket & Phi Phi tempt me but they look pretty far away on the map, i dont really want to waste to much time traveling from place to place.

These places are expensive, probably no-where on either Phuket or Phi Phi for even twice your max budget. Lanta is cheaper (and very good, although slow paced, but that may be just what you're after), or you could head further south to Koh Lipe / Koh Turatao.

But I'd recommend heading back up north and hanging out in Koh Chang for a while, from where you'll be in easy reach of Bangkok for when you return. Koh Samet is also worth a look and is nearby too, but Koh Chang is a great island and another one of those places you won't want to pack up your hammock and leave...

[Backpack_thailand]

Hey Moderators, what happened to my post in this thread...??

Took me ages to write it out!

[cdnvic]

Hey Moderators, what happened to my post in this thread...??

Took me ages to write it out!

1. Self-promotional URL in post which as you know isn't allowed.

2. Commentary about moderation issues which were unnessasary and were the final straw in having it dumped.

cv

[game4shame]

250bht p/d max for accommodation

calm down, no need to push the boat out.

[geenius]

wow. loads of really sound advice thanks guys (& gals)

Ive definitely added Krabi, Koh Lanta & Koh Chang on to my list of if i have time, seems like a mixed bunch of replies in regards to koh samui, Think i will go and check it out, but im trying to escape the whole commercial, branded western world so might no stay on for long, and really appreciate the advice in regards to getting to Phangan early

The general jist from everything ive read is that being presentable and making an effort goes a long way with the Thai's that in mind can anyone help me out with some basic thai, even just hello (and how to pronounce it)

if anything else pops into your heads keep it coming, off to the embassy in the morning to pick up my visa

[wilko]

Here’s thirty things to think about…

1. Bring a cell phone “unblocked” and buy a Thai SIM card for it on arrival..

2. e.g. - International calls to UK are about 8baht per min…

3. Don’t bother with Travellers checks in any currency…they are to much hassle

4. Bring ATM and/or credit cards.

5. Very little cash – you tend to get a better rate of exchange here than any home country. Just enough to get you out of the airport to somewhere nice for the first night

6. Very few clothes – they are so cheap here and you’ll only bring stuff that is too warm.

7. Very little luggage – this makes you more mobile if you need to be and less vulnerable to taxi touts and undesirable men….

8. Before you go home you can buy any extra luggage (cheap) to take souvenirs etc.

9. There are baggage storage facilities at Bkk airport…

10. Mozzie spray – especially if you have the stuff from Oz.

11. Good quality sun-cream – especially the stuff in Oz.

12. Get some travel insurance – hospitals/medicine is cheap but why pay?

13. Check out a few “jabs” – don’t bother with the malaria ones – too heavy!

14. Internet access is everywhere – even on the beach…

15. Thai food is very unlikely to give you food poisoning but can contain more chillies than you ever thought possible…

16. Western (“farang”) food is extremely likely to give you food poisoning – fridges are not part of Thai cooking lore yet…

17. Use common safety sense – it is easy to relax too much here…when it comes to petty crime the rate is certainly lower than in places like the UK…but every country has its share of con-men and psychopaths…..

18. Get a phrase book – lonely planet is good as is their guide to Thailand (better than the rough guide)….

19. Make a friend on the plane and safe money on a taxi to your hotel when you arrive in Bkk. Check out the ways of getting out of Bkk airport.

20. Avoid spending your first night or few days in Bkk – go there at the end of your stay –its better once you’ve acclimatiz3ed, and the airport is about 45 min from the centre.

21. Don’t be afraid to go to Pattaya – it is the sex capital of Thailand but they don’t jump out at single women and has good, cheap hotels, shopping and food. Not a bad place to start off for Koh Chang, Koh Samet or Cambodia.

22. Remember Thailand is more than beaches – there are beautiful cities, national parks, forests and lakes up North – your guide book will help you there…

23. Bring an international driving licence – although most national ones are accepted by motorbike and car hire companies and anyone else who wants to hire you something….

24. check up on Thai manners and customs – this will earn you more respect from the locals.

25. Keep up some dress sense – how you dress in Thailand is quite important.

26. Don’t go topless without checking out if it’s acceptable where you are – usually it’s frowned upon.

27. You’ll notice that Thai women (even sex workers) are very modest in public –they usually swim fully clothed.

28. Check out table manners – Thais tend to eat from communal dishes in the centre of the table – don’t pour everything onto your own plate!

29. Don’t knock the royal family – even in jest.

30. Don’t point your feet at people – the body is seen as hierarchical and the feet are the lowest part and should not be waved about (this is like a “fingers up” sign).

[wilko]

wow. loads of really sound advice thanks guys (& gals)

Ive definitely added Krabi, Koh Lanta & Koh Chang on to my list of if i have time, seems like a mixed bunch of replies in regards to koh samui, Think i will go and check it out, but im trying to escape the whole commercial, branded western world so might no stay on for long, and really appreciate the advice in regards to getting to Phangan early

The general jist from everything ive read is that being presentable and making an effort goes a long way with the Thai's that in mind can anyone help me out with some basic thai, even just hello (and how to pronounce it)

if anything else pops into your heads keep it coming, off to the embassy in the morning to pick up my visa

Koh Chang…a paradise lost…

This is a quick overview of the state of Koh Chang, the second largest island in Thailand. Now with the sudden unpopularity of the west coast (i.e. Phuket) there is an ever increasing number of western tourists heading for this island...here is my polemic on why this is not so good....

I've been to Koh Chang many times over the past three years, largely because it's near to Sri Racha where I live, and every time a friend comes to stay this is the most convenient "paradise island to take them to". My brother even got married there in March.

So why can I not recommend this slice of bounty advert?

(Deep breath)

Koh Chang is a dull, badly developed, overpriced pit of a place and it's going down hill at a rate of knots......

Why? The land for development was all bought up by bigwig friends of the "great and powerful" and now anyone who wants to set up a business there has to pay through the nose for it. All the hotels are overpriced especially when you compare with Phuket and Samui.

Almost all the west coast is now covered with these awful self-contained resorts, which are for the most part badly designed and ill finished. Frequently you can find your room is on a building site. Health and safety is simply not addressed - some of the pool designs look positively lethal.

If you're coming from Europe or the States you'll find that the cost of living and rooms is cheap but not compared to elsewhere in Thailand. You'll love the sunsets and the white sand, you won't wonder where all the sewage is going and what happened to the mangroves or the fishing industry that gets smaller catches every year, or the fishing villages being turned into a souvenir arcade-cum-hotel.

The centre of Koh Chang is a national park , but unlike all of Thailand's other National Parks, apart from the odd waterfall, no-one is allowed inside, you can get a guide who will take you in but strictly speaking that's against the law. There is virtually no effort made to set up a good system of eco-tourism in the park as you might find in Australia.

There is only one road around KC and it doesn't go all the way round, it's a horse-shoe affair. There is a motorbike track that connects the two ends but it's not for the faint of heart! The road is barely more than single track (asphalted) but cannot cope with the ever increasing load of traffic pouring onto the island.

KC is the second biggest island in Thailand and walking around it in a day is not an option, KC is also very mountainous and the roads are very windy and hilly and as the resorts are all a long way from any shops etc its essential to hire a motorbike or car. These of course are about 50 to 100 % more than on the mainland. The baht taxi service is very patchy. Any where you want to go is further than you want to walk.

The main town, if you could call it that is White Sands a long strip of hotels ,resorts and motley bars about 3 km long. If you arrive on foot a baht taxi will take you from the ferry to Whitesands and drop you there. (So long as he has a full load or he'll want you to foot the extra money) You will then have to find somewhere to stay this is impossible on foot and with luggage So book in advance at least for the first night. Then get some wheels.

There is no airport on KC itself, if you go by plane you'll land at Trat airport which is on the mainland quite near to the ferries to KC. Get a taxi to the ferry - only a few baht. There are several ferries across, the crossing takes 45 to 90 min, depending on which ferry you take. On one ferry I paid 30 e/w for me and my car, on another I paid 360 baht for my car an five people return.

Now you may think I hate the place, well I don't, I just get very disappointed in the direction the powers-that-be have taken KC, it's lack of infrastructure and any forward planning will mean that sooner rather than later this place will become a collection of overprice resorts and nothing else.

Where to stay? - Klong Prao Beach is probably as good as it gets, there are about 4 resorts there actually with beach frontage, The Paradise is all nicely built new bungalows, Coconut and Royal Coconut are next to that and Klong Prao resort has a long beach front and good pool beside the sea.

However the last time I stayed at Klong Prao Resort in last August the place was a building site. They didn't tell me until the day I arrived even though I was a regular guest there. If you do book in advance you must ask about this sort of thing because you will very likely not be told by the staff. Building also precedes a hike in prices. I used to pay 1800 baht to stay there. That time I paid 1750, a discount of 50 baht (just over a dollar) because it was the wet season and there was building going on! I was told the new price is 3500 baht and that was what they would still charge whilst the building was continuing.

The problem with Koh Chang is that it is changing and changing rapidly for the worse. Hotels are constantly building and encroaching on the environment. Prices are rising and beach access is getting more and more taken over by private resorts. The days of a hut on the beach for 200 baht are virtually gone. The scuba divers are going further and further a field in search of clear water and fish, and don’t be kidded that so long as the hotel claims to be by the sea that it has a beach!

Remember that during high season (Nov to April) and with the tsunami still driving many extra visitors over from the west coast, you may find many places fully booked.

PS – I cannot recommend the Ramayana and Boutique resorts!

If you want up to date local info on KC, try this site - IamKohChang.com -

Good site for info on Koh Chang and sounds like a good place to stay too!