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Am I crazy to move to Issan?


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Posted (edited)

I think that you and your wife, if you choose, can adapt. While you don't mention the age of your children, I think that after eight years in the US, they will be the ones who will face a difficult challenge in adapting. While Thailand is a long distance from the US in miles, a village in Issan is significantly farther in cultural and lifestyle differences. They really are, IMO, two separate, distinct lifestyle and cultural worlds.

As a mid 60s, recently retired married couple, we also have a home in a village in Issan, and we have one grown child who lives in the US. After almost 40 years away from Thailand, we built a house, bought a car etc and now spend six months or so in each country. We just returned from seven months in Thailand and thoroughly enjoy each home, and after returning to the US, are still in awe of life back here, much as we are in awe of life at our Issan home surrounded by extended family members.

Two dynamically different worlds - when considering those differences, plus the potential differences in quality of education and setting the foundation for your children for their lives as adults, I would loose a lot of sleep over this decision.

Just my two cents of course. Peace and good luck.

Yes Al, u must have a good retirement income to be able to live in 2 places. Emotionally that is completely different from having to make a "final decision" to leave Spokane and, move to Issan and wait to die. If u enjoy your extended family that is great. I also have a wife from Issan, a great lady. We have land and planted rubber trees. 90 miles from Udon. We also have a great business in Pattaya. Clearly we can't take care of the farm and just can't find anybody half way reliable who wants to take care and live on the field, btw close to the village. I also made the mistake of building an irrigation system and buy farm machinery, at total waste of money. What would you do with the 24 hrs every day. I don't speak Thai/Lao as they use in Issan. Your wife will be bored and have friends over at the house. To me a language that I don't understand and the high pitched voices of many Thai women is NOISE, constant noise. It gets old very fast.. NO, the kids will not enjoy the transition

Good luck

Edited by BlueSkyCowboy
Posted

Go for it mate. I live in Hua Hin but i taught in Nam Kliang Wittayu in Sisaket. Lovely people. I doubt whether the young uns' would like it though. Evenings are spent drinking Leaw Keaw and playing cards, with the locals. Nothing much for the young to do though, unless you're in Sisaket it'self.

By your post, not the fence post, I assume that u are about 75 yrs old and a total bore LOL. A little senility helps when living in small town Thailand. Playing cards with the locals hahahaha blow me down

Posted

OP, I am American mid-40s living in Isaan since 2010 (in Thailand since 1999) with wife and 2 kids. You have lived your life. Put the kids' needs first. Unless you are homeschooling them like we are doing with our kids, their futures are as dim as they will be educationally. At your age, statistically speaking, you could go "poof" any year now. What happens to them???

Posted

I just spent two weeks in the Village with my GF, about 50Ks from Surin Town.

I had a great time, lots of new experiences, lots of good people, lots of fun.

The trip though was enlivened by Songkran and so many people coming back to the village and also a family member's monk ceremony, so the visit was not the norm I would expect.

After the parties were over, things slowed down a lot and I could see that there would be issues if i ever lived in such an environment in maintaining day to day interests.

I could definitely live in issan if i was living in a reasonable size town like Surin Town. The district town of Sangkha would be okay for a month but then become dull for me. The village was way too small for me to be living full time

The village setting is fishbowl like, lots of family about, lots of nosey villagers. Everything I did and everywhere I went was relayed back to the family within hours. You have limited activities (if retired/not working), limited conversational interaction with people who speak your native language.

There are plenty of upsides to the village life IMO, but for living there full time, for myself, the downsides would outweigh them.

Posted

there's never a dull moment here,but I am the opposite to you,having worked all my life I looked forward to a peacefull retirement so I am quite happy to sit outside every evening with my dog,having a can of cider,only concern I would have is,your childrens education and health care.as for getting bored if your living near her family they will keep you amused.

Posted

If your wife is not too enthused , why are you even building a house ? I would say a three to six months trial is a good idea .

Regarding health issues , it is better to be in good health , but the Thai hospitals and doctors are OK and medical services not expensive .

Economically you would be much better off , even though prices have gone up , the over all cost of living is much lower .

Moving from a big city to a small village in very rural Isaan can be chalenging , you might easily be bored out of your mind .

At least your wife and family must speak English . Would you be in her original home village ? If not she will find it difficult to adapt .

I'm 77yrs , in good health and live in a big Isaan village , with some amenities like small hospital and post office , we have a covered market and others where one can buy fruit , vegetables and local farmed fish . Most village shops don't sell serious foodstuff on only snacks and Thai condements .

I won't touch any local meat , because I think the cows may have TB . We do most of our shopping at Tesco-Lotus store in a neighbouring town about 19km away . You might have to go 40km to do your main shopping .

You want to be sure of a good internet connection , because you'll soon find that is your lifeline to the civilised world . I love rural life which I have always been used to , I have rebuilt and modernised my wife's home to comfortable living , we have the car of my wife's choice , even on my modest retirement income we live very comfortably .

We are in my wife's home village , where she is head teacher of an infant school . I spend all day on my own , trying not to be bored out of my mind .

What about the children's education , schools are way below US academic standards ?

I should really be living near the sea where I could enjoy the beach and swim , maybe have a sail boat to explore neighbouring islands and find coral reefs to snorkel .

I have an Australian friend from northern Tasmania who lived in our village for 6 months . He returned to Tasmania for health reasons , but he said he couldn't live in Isaan for the lack of a library , cinema contact with other westerners but not the bar scene , few educated people to talk to . My friend may come back and rent a condominium apartment near Pattaya . Pattaya is really a dreadful city and resort , but has shopping and cultural amenities that can be reach from civilised outlying residential districts .

You are wise to consider a six month trial , without burning any bridges , but I think you are looking for trouble

  • Like 1
Posted

well I think the six month plan sounds good.you need to think about the kids,again not sure how old they are.the education is better in the states....if I was you keep the new house as vacation house..Christmases for a few month and other big Holidays ..if the kids get summer break do 7 months in states and 5 in Thailand...find a trustworthy person to keep a good eye on place and all is good

Posted

As long as I have internet I would stand a chance of living in Issan for a couple of weeks at a time. Right now I live in Pattaya and I have really become way too use to the conveniences of the falang stores and food. We are building a house for my wife and her family in Kalasin, but I do not plan to live there and really don't think I ever could.

I think it takes a certain kind of person who can live way out in the middle of nowhere in a country like Thailand where the language is so different and difficult to learn. I speak a fair amount of Thai, but can't understand it very well. Many falang do live in Issan and love it. It doesn't sound like you will like it very much, but trying it for 6 months is a great idea. I'm sure you will know after 6 months.

Posted

I spend some time at MIL's house, about 70km from Khon Kaen a couple of times a year. The longest stretch I can do without going insane due to boredom is around three weeks. I'd consider having an Isaan place as a "summer cottage" for visiting once in a while and spend the rest of the time somewhere closer to civilization.

Posted

The expression "fish out of water" springs to mind. Sorry, but it does seem a little perverse to swap city life to bucolic bliss in a totally different culture, particularly when your wife and children are less than enthusiastic.. Personally, I would have delayed building a house until I was sure I wanted to put down roots in such alien and culturally arid soil.

But who knows? I've been here 15 years after falling for a Thai woman and her native land. Unfortunately, our marriage failed and I was pretty sceptical about staying on, as there were (and still are) aspects of Thailand that are unappealing. But the place has a way of growing on you - to the extent that I have only visited my homeland twice in the last decade.

In my case, remarrying and helping raise four step children was a vital part of the bonding process with my adopted country. Like you, I worried about vegetating in retirement, particularly as the seaside resort my new family and I moved to was very "Thai" and access to stimulating falang or Thai company extremely limited.

So I invested in a computer, which gave me instant access to the friends and relatives I had left behind, and reveled in the luxury of being a full-time dad to a bunch of bright and lovable kids at an age when most guys are grandfathers! Between having fun and teaching them English I somehow found time to father a little girl of my own.

Now I can't imagine living any where else but this crazy, contradictory yet utterly captivating country.Maybe it will grow on you, too, though I suspect it will take more than six months to get you totally hooked.

Whatever the outcome, I wish you and your family the very best for the future.

Posted

Don't start drinking more than twice a week.

***********************************

Indeed, good advice. Best to maybe only stop once, twice at max.

  • Like 1
Posted
  • Isaan is almost like living back in the states. The only thing missing are the gogo dancers and hoards of hookers. iYou know where that is. Here...well, you get a car, get a house, mow the grass, raise the kids, go shopping, and then you find out you do not own anything, the wife has 3 other boyfriends, the car has been repossessed for 3 consecutive loans, and you can't even find a decent bargal to hear your sad story.

Well, thats what they all say in Pattaya. Not always accurate, but I got to tell ya....it happens

  • Like 2
Posted

From the OP

I have been building a house in a village in Sisaket, and plan to move there in a few months... My Thai wife and her kids have become very Americanized being here for 8 years, and willing to go, but not too enthused.

And then from another poster

I'm in a somewhat similar situation. I'm an American looking to build a house here in SiSaket.My wife has been in the U.S. for 5+ years and isn't exactly thrilled at the prospect of moving back to Thailand, especially Isaan.

What is the motivation for upping sticks from a completely settled, comfortable and harmonious family lifestyle in the US and doing a 'saturation dive' in the remoter parts of Isaan? As someone else mentioned earlier, usually it is the Thai spouse that leads these expeditions but these two guys seem to be leading this charge. I recommend they get together and trade strategies.

Anyway, the OP has some sort of plan with the agreed 6-month take it or leave it option but that doesn't really give anyone a real handle on rural lifestyle. However, maybe it fits in with the kids US education, if still applicable. I don't recall Sisaket having anything other than Thai schools. The second guy hasn't indicated a trial-run and maybe not needed with the prior living in LOS experience to take the edge off. Green Acres was where a city couple decided to move to the country and be self sustaining, with the husband trying to live his dream whilst the wife hated it. Is that the plan here? Maybe a small degree of market gardening with the extra produce going to the local market but not a main revenue stream? What, if anything, are your spouses planning on doing?

As mentioned, keeping active and having a hobby is a good way to pass the time while the jigsaw puzzle picture of a life in Isaan takes form. To be honest, the house-building first seems all a bit premature since there are no guarantees that they will be able to stay the course. These guys may be financially comfortable to build and walk away from it but an even savvier apprentice Isaanite would have been better off renting for 6 months first. Sorting out the things that are (inevitably) wrong with the new build house will keep you happily busy for maybe 2-3 months, lulling one into a false (mis)understanding of rural life. Then,when the palace is finished, they will find out what the solitude can be like when suddenly not busy with anything and there's nobody else to socialise with for miles around. Despite it's shortcomings, Facebook is a pretty quick and easy way of finding like-minded souls (or otherwise) in the neighborhood ahead of arriving and setting up camp. These forums as well but you need to sort out the wheat from the chaff sometimes.

Good luck and welcome to "Hooterville"

Posted

Well, I guess it will depend on the children really as it will not be easy for them to make the adjustment.

I believe it is in your long term best interests if you can find enough things to occupy you.

I live in a village where the population do not speak much English and so I have to learn the language. You may need to do this also to help you find a place in Thai society. I trust you have already secured American residency for the wife and kids? This would be a great legacy for them and if you need special care later in life they can be there for you can be there for you

Posted
To OP:

Here are my thoughts (for what it’s worth) from when I was considering moving to Thailand at age nearly 60 (late fifties) and also considering if I could live up at Isaan in a small village (Surin area) – of course building a house with the necessary facilities one is used to from a Western life (I’m from Scandinavia) and expect for a daily life, like descent bathroom and kitchen etc. – like OP has done. A car would be a basic need for shopping; most stuff needed to be bought from a nearby town 20-30 minutes drive away or even further away more than one hour driving to a city with shopping malls like Big C or Tesco, furthermore a car would be essential for emergency.


I came to the conclusion, that “Yes” I can live in an Isaan village, but that will change my life-style. I may need to create other interests, however today Internet is common, that was more difficult some years ago in a village with no fixed telephone lines. I am used to be alone, so not in need of farang pals to hang out with – but I did notice a the very few farangs living in the area at that time feeling both lonely or bored, having no friends to talk to. Would be a chance to try to pick-up enough Thai to have a conversation, but many village people would only small talk or talk about very local subjects like farming, so also that would be a change when used to “more intellectual conversations”. Also, I might not be able to live a too farang life-style, as that could make it more difficult to mingle with the locals; meaning for example accepting often dining on a mat on the floor or at a bench, rather than sitting on chairs around a table.


The financial prospects was, that the costs of land and building a house up at Isaan would be (much) cheaper than in a more developed or “civilized” area, like at a tourist destination such as Hua Hin or wherever. On the other hand I would need to drive to shop almost everything I consider necessary for a more farang life-style, adding to the costs, which otherwise would basically be the same if shopping in malls or chain stores, like Seven-elleven. Medical issues like hospital would be a local public hospital some 20-30 minutes driving away, if I should need a private it would be further distance like an hours drive or more to a larger city. On top came, that I was considering family, so thoughts about school for a kid – would a local Isaan public village school do…?


What if I regretted and wish to move out, would I be able to sell the house and get (some of) my invested money back when moving on…?


I decided, that it was not the way I wished to live an early retirement in Thailand – at least not the way I wished my life-style while I was still active – and the difference in costs, which seems to be the reason for many settling up at Isaan, looked not to be that much when it came to daily needs – might even be more expensive than many other more “civilized” places. Then rather rent something where I prefer to spend my time – and in my case invest a bit more money in a home, that suddenly became a possibility when property prices rocked sky high back home in 2006 and a good time to sell. With the “right set-up” it may be safer than a fairly non-saleable village home.


Today I am very happy I decided not to live in an Isaan village and it seems like, the daily living costs up Isaan has gone up so much, that I even live cheaper where I stay now – at least so my GF says. And should I get tired of the more “civilized life-style” I may always be able to sell out (or quit if rented) and move up – at an Isaan village. However, not sure if my (Thai) family would join me…? whistling.gif

Posted
phinick

Newbie

Posted 2014-04-19 14:13:39

I have been building a house in a village in Sisaket, and plan to move there in a few months. There are no problems regarding the building process. (I was there a few months ago checking it out), and my bil who is head man in the village accounts for all expenses, etc. House is about 40K from Sisaket City, and I am also concerned about medical issues at my age. The question I have is this: Since I currently live in the U.S. in a large city with something to do 24 hrs per day, will I go crazy in a small village? I will have a farang style house with air cond, and all other comforts. I am in my late 60's and my reasoning is that I can live much better on my retirement income. My Thai wife and her kids have become very Americanized being here for 8 years, and willing to go, but not too enthused. My wife and I agreed to compromise and give it at least 6 months, and if we are not happy, to return to the U.S. Am I just looking for trouble, or does anyone even have an opinion? I am very interested in feedback.

*** As you have seen by reading what 80% of the replies your not gloing to like it. Don't know why you would just go build a house in remote area without spoending some time there.first. It getrs preety boring just watching TV and using internet all day. Too many guys come over and do nothing , muscles atrophy , gain weight . Looking at bad health soon. I have a home just outside Pattaya can drive intown in 15 mins but is in quite area, however if I want malls, movies ect its a short ride to get city conmforts. Way out there you will have a long way to go for farang style comforts and health care as well I think. Bad decesion especially for the kids.

Posted

As many already said, speaking the language will help a lot, especially in the sticks. In town, you will meet a few people who speak enough English to say basic pleasantries.

Also, 40k from Sisaket can mean different things, depending on which direction from the town you are. 40k on the way to Ubon is one thing; 40k to the south on the way to Cambodia is another.

The biggest thing is the kids. How old are they? The schools are generally horrible here, even the expensive ones in town. They just are. Your kids will go from (presumably) a decent school in the US to a school where very little learning happens at all. Also, be prepared for your wife to suddenly get much busier with family stuff.

Posted

i lasted two years ,house stands there ,empty ,wife ,works ,oldest daughter ,works ,young daughter in school ,all in europe ,what future have issan kids got in thailand ,oldest girls worked in hotel in thailand got 7000bt month ,now she gets 1600 euros month ,young one speaks english/french/spanish ,they have no interest in returning to thailand ,mum issan in her blood ,sure can't wait to return ,for me what is there to return to ,once you done the wild life ,been in to it came out the other side with a wife ,

Posted

Tried it and I was going insane~~Bored to tears with Nothing to do...I have no plans to spend my golden Years watching Rice grow surrounded by a Language your not comfortable with but this is Just me..Give me the beach or Bangkok where I at least can relate to restaurants shopping malls ETC...

Good point.

I still wonder why some guys living in Patts/BKK/Islands for X number of years, move up to "The Sticks" with their GF/Wives. Some have told me they got tired of the crime, traffic, congestion and tourist scene. Some say it's less expensive up here. Some say the locals are nicer up here, not all wrapped around the axle in the city rat race. Maybe the wife caught them cheating and it was move or divorce.

Every farang that moves, do it because his GF/wife convince him. It's always she and never he that suggest it.

Have you even seen anyone living alone their?

It's nothing wrong with staying there. But be fair, nobody without a GF/wife that have convinced them that they must build/buy a house where she comes from, would move there.

Posted

I think that you and your wife, if you choose, can adapt. While you don't mention the age of your children, I think that after eight years in the US, they will be the ones who will face a difficult challenge in adapting. While Thailand is a long distance from the US in miles, a village in Issan is significantly farther in cultural and lifestyle differences. They really are, IMO, two separate, distinct lifestyle and cultural worlds.

As a mid 60s, recently retired married couple, we also have a home in a village in Issan, and we have one grown child who lives in the US. After almost 40 years away from Thailand, we built a house, bought a car etc and now spend six months or so in each country. We just returned from seven months in Thailand and thoroughly enjoy each home, and after returning to the US, are still in awe of life back here, much as we are in awe of life at our Issan home surrounded by extended family members.

Two dynamically different worlds - when considering those differences, plus the potential differences in quality of education and setting the foundation for your children for their lives as adults, I would loose a lot of sleep over this decision.

Just my two cents of course. Peace and good luck.

There is much wisdom in this reply.

For you there is a real issue of cultural isolation and boredom. After a few fascinating years of establishing your home and watching the seasons and the rice harvest rotate the novelty may pall. The ideal if you can afford it is having a foot in both camps as SpokaneAl describes, but the big issue is the children. I have no idea how old they are but how will they be educated? How will they feel and if they in effect become Thai what opportunities for the future are there for them. To be rice farmers? It is hard to get any career for them if you are not mega-rich or well connected in Thai society.

I had the experience of moving to Isaan, in fact to a Surin village close to Sisaket, and staying there for a good number of years with my 'Thai girl'. It may be useful for you to read of my experiences in detail and I have set these out in a book, available on the shelves in Thailand as an ebook. Mentioning this is a serious contribution to this debate and I hope moderators will not forbid me from naming it. I am not selling beer or beans and I hope genuine authors with a relevant point are not banned from the forum.

The book is called, "My Thai Girl and I" and it tells our whole story in the village together, with all the joys and pitfalls, told in a humorous but serious light.

Best wishes with your future wherever it may lead.

Andrew Hicks

Posted

It is a lower cost to live in a village in Isaan. But the difference is very small. Because when comparing with someone in a large city, you should compare with a similar lifestyle. It doesn't cost much to live in CM or Bankok if you never go to restaurants, bars, pubs or other places for entertainment. To just sit outside your home cost very little wherever you stay

Posted (edited)

Aloha

At 63 I moved to the rice paddy's from Maui Hawaii, quite a difference, lived 2 years in the rice paddy's, 10 clicks out of Buriram I found diet, exercise, outlook and giving back is the winner for a good life there, here, anywhere, I also built a swimming pool that contributed to my exercise, now and again allowing a few neighbors in as long as they cleaned up around the area, Education, Education, Education is what you should bring to the table, I taught English free, cleaned areas near or in creeks or lakes, made sure I pulled the legs off grasshoppers before I ate them otherwise they get stuck in your throat, smile all the time, get a dog or 2...

Don't act to well off or a relation might think your better off in sky and then they might think they can move into your nice big Falang home, I built my 2 homes Thai style so I won't stand out to much...

Thought I brought 30 rai family said it was a good deal, found out after paying, I only leased it...

Only loan money if you know your giving it away, also invested in a shrimp farm, my pond was the only one that they all died in...

I got involved in the local school, now and again contributed food, also helped a little with very poor family's...

Don't flash gold, when they built my place, they cemented broken glass on top of my surrounding wall, I also put a in a large water tank filter before and in it also a point of use inside home...

Sense I had quit drinking, There was to much down time for many of my neighbors growing cow (rice) and to much drinking...

Keeping an open door to returning back to your other home is a very good idea...

I made a mistake, divorced and moved to Jomtien Thailand...

Was not the girls fault...

Wishing you and yours good health, happiness and inner-peace...

post-51002-0-33578500-1398067882_thumb.j

Edited by metisdead
Link to personal blogspot removed.
Posted

My wife is currently managing the building of 'our' house in Buriram Province. Even though I'm investing my money in the project I know that I will spend little time at the house despite ensuring that it has Western style mod cons, satellite TV and internet

I just get crushingly bored in the village. My non- existent Thai doesn't help.

In saying that my wife gets equally bored. The danger is we will both turn to the bottle despite neither of us being 'drinkers'

So I think the house will just be a status signal to other villagers that my spouse has done well from her marriage

All is not lost as long as we have transport. It's a fair ride to the coast but a few days beside the seaside recharges bith our batteries and there are quite a few scenic areas of Thailand that are regularly demanding a visit

I'm pretty gregarious although my wife is very reserved.English speaking friends and acquaintances help trememendously

So in answer to your question. It is possible to live happily in Isaan if you use your home purely as a base and use it to enjoy the wider Thailand and all it's attractions

Posted (edited)

You will be bored to death in Issan, spend much of your time trying to convince yourself you are happy, and be looking for things to do. Why not compromise and move to the outskirts of Bangkok? Have a bit of peace and quiet but only an hour or so to Bkk. Maybe a bit further like Pakchong or Korat but still within 2 or 3 hrs of Bkk. You will be much more content I believe.

Edited by rotary
  • Like 1
Posted

Need to set up your own world with things you do to keep engaged and basically and it's pretty good out here. Personally I am deeply involved with Buddhist studies and practice, not as a monk, but as a layman and also do a lot of writing and compose music to boot, so there aren't enough hours of day in my case.

Don't expect you'll be able to relate, except on a superficial basis to the locals. People are friendlier here than the cities, but their lives are so much different to most farang you won't have much in common, but that's not any different than it is in Bangkok. I usually enjoy having a chat when I bump into people, but that is all I expect out of it and that is more interaction with locals than you get in the cities. I much prefer just about evrything out here to Bangkok. It is much more relaxed out here and so will probably add more to your life expectancy than being near a hospital would.

Air quality while not great due to burning garbage is better than Bangkok. Some areas have refuse collection, we don't so people burn some pretty nasty stuff which can make the air bad for a few hours.

But, not crazy at all to move to Isaan, pretty sensible actually.

In our area here in Isaan we have a fairly decent local village ambulance service to the nearest hospital which is about 30 minutes away. That's something to look into if you are worried about needing to get to a hospital pronto.

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