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Life Expectancy of a Nissan March compared to...


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... a 4 cylinder engine.

We need a school run car. March is perfect.

Would never be driven above 100kph. Would be driven about 15,000km p/a. Mainlt city driving.

It's a 3 cylinder 1.2L.

What would people's predictions be to it's life expectancy, or engine condition in 10, 20, 30 years. Especially compared to a 4 cyl like the Yaris or Jazz.

I want to buy it and forget about it, and still have it pottering about in 20+ years time.

Whatcha think about it?

Edited by 332
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Up to you, I plan on selling my car when it is three years old, maybe four, and getting a new one. A twenty year old car will probably cost you as much as a new one, at least that's my experience. I also use it mainly for the school run but it is also ok for 500Km trips occasionally.

Edited by cooked
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Don't really know much about the "March"....

But bought the daughter a Yaris 5 years ago....has 200,000 kilometers now and is running pretty much the same as new.(all maintenance was done when supposed to be done)

That being said ...I expect problems soon and am looking to trade it in and get a new one.

Expecting 10 or more years....possible? yes ...but there will be the normal (and at times abnormal) problems along the way....Maintenance ...is the key!

Good luck Though!

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I am still driving my 2003 Nissan March here in Japan. It's in good shape. I've had to replace the brakes once and the battery a couple of times. It's a 1.2 L. But I think it has four cylinders. I've actually never checked. It easily goes 100 KPH and seems to have good power climbing hills but I usually drive alone so there's not too much weight in it. I am scrupulous about changing the oil (Mobil 1) every 2,000 - 2,500 K. Oh yes, and I replaced the tires once. They're still in acceptable shape after about 2.5 years. I've owned only Nissans both here and in the USA. Here I've owned a Nissan Sunny and the Nissan March. In California, I owned a Nissan 200SX with the Maxima 3.0 L engine. I drove it on California freeways for over 200,000 miles on the odometer. It didn't require any major repairs - just hoses, belts, brakes and tires. I've really gotten good service out of Nissan cars!

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An INDICATOR is piston travel per km. It's the stroke length x rpm at a "certain speed", to compare cars, apples to apples. Less rpm is good for valve train longevity, though. I love my Mazda 2, a 1500cc manual transmission. School run car. The infinite ratio auto on the Nissan I don't know about, manual variety should be OK. Whatever you want to last, keep it's oil changed on schedule or earlier. (Including tranny.) If valves are manual adjustment, do them per schedule.

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An INDICATOR is piston travel per km. It's the stroke length x rpm at a "certain speed", to compare cars, apples to apples. Less rpm is good for valve train longevity, though. I love my Mazda 2, a 1500cc manual transmission. School run car. The infinite ratio auto on the Nissan I don't know about, manual variety should be OK. Whatever you want to last, keep it's oil changed on schedule or earlier. (Including tranny.) If valves are manual adjustment, do them per schedule.

You're a trainspotter aren't you !!!

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An INDICATOR is piston travel per km. It's the stroke length x rpm at a "certain speed", to compare cars, apples to apples. Less rpm is good for valve train longevity, though. I love my Mazda 2, a 1500cc manual transmission. School run car. The infinite ratio auto on the Nissan I don't know about, manual variety should be OK. Whatever you want to last, keep it's oil changed on schedule or earlier. (Including tranny.) If valves are manual adjustment, do them per schedule.

You're a trainspotter aren't you !!!

clap2.gif

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Hello frends,

I bought last september Suzuki Swift,automat.

Now I drove 12.000 km and it is very good.

I testdrived all smaall cars and this was the best.

1200 CM3, 91 hp,4 cylinders.

GO to test it then you know.

Best regards

from Isaan

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All of these cheap cars assembled locally have about 5-7 years life in them before they are an accident waiting to happen.

You can keep any old car running with enough workshop time also thrown in the deal. Then it is here, so workshop time means, they tell you come back Friday, when you come back Friday, they have done nothing to it yet. "No hab parts". Then your wait can be anywhere from a week more to a month or more the older the car gets.

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Many short trips on a cold engine, most people I see driving here have no idea that an engine needs to be warm before you can let it really work. Just look around you to see the black smoke from red-plate cars.... reckon for problems in a few years

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The eco style car has been sold in other markets for many years.

No reason to think that they will not last with appropriate maintenance.

My mum had a Suzuki Alto for 9 years it was still ok until she had an accident.

I have a Mirage (cvt) at 90 kmh it is doing about 2k rpm so not exactly straining the engine.

As with all mechanical things maintenance is the key.

Sent from my XT1032 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

Edited by casualbiker
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Many short trips on a cold engine, most people I see driving here have no idea that an engine needs to be warm before you can let it really work. Just look around you to see the black smoke from red-plate cars.... reckon for problems in a few years

The black smoke is usually because the knob head owners have overridden the fuel pump on their trucks because it then goes faster........ like the drag strip trucks etc..

Sent from my XT1032 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

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Many short trips on a cold engine, most people I see driving here have no idea that an engine needs to be warm before you can let it really work. Just look around you to see the black smoke from red-plate cars.... reckon for problems in a few years

The black smoke is usually because the knob head owners have overridden the fuel pump on their trucks because it then goes faster........ like the drag strip trucks etc..

Sent from my XT1032 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

Is that what Transam did to his Vigo? ;)

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An INDICATOR is piston travel per km. It's the stroke length x rpm at a "certain speed", to compare cars, apples to apples. Less rpm is good for valve train longevity, though. I love my Mazda 2, a 1500cc manual transmission. School run car. The infinite ratio auto on the Nissan I don't know about, manual variety should be OK. Whatever you want to last, keep it's oil changed on schedule or earlier. (Including tranny.) If valves are manual adjustment, do them per schedule.

You're a trainspotter aren't you !!!

clap2.gif

The mean piston speed is measured in meters per second, and a true indicator of attrition. If you are using regular engine oil, the oil film in between the cylinder and the piston walls, will be torn apart at about 21 meters per second mean piston speed; hence the less speed, the better.

To save material, nowadays car engines are short stroke rather than long stroke engines, which have more torque and less need to shift the gears. Today the valve trains can handle high rpms, as there are no pushrods anymore.

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Least it's a Nissan rather than a Kia or Hyundai or even worse a Cherry.

Being a Nissan, it will/should keep going.

Unless you take it to the Nissan dealer in Chonburi and it comes out worse than it went in and half a petrol tank missing and spare tyer swopped for a older one dealer in Sriracha main highway be aware. My first car in Thailand was 2nd hand.

I drive a merc now and no problems.

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Least it's a Nissan rather than a Kia or Hyundai or even worse a Cherry.

Being a Nissan, it will/should keep going.

Unless you take it to the Nissan dealer in Chonburi and it comes out worse than it went in and half a petrol tank missing and spare tyer swopped for a older one dealer in Sriracha main highway be aware. My first car in Thailand was 2nd hand.

I drive a merc now and no problems.

My local dealer here in Bangkok is pretty good. Sorry to hear about some scam by others. Don't think it has anything to do with the car make however.

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It is a disposable car. I would not expect it to last tooo long after the warranty has expired.

Nonsense... those days are gone for major brands... we aren't talking about a 1973 Fiat here. They really don't make rubbish anymore.

it should last just fine to 150k kilometers if you don't beat it to death. The number of cylinders has no bearing on how long the engine will last.

But worrying abut the value of a 400,000 baht car in 20 years is a bit rich. Ten years of service (150k km) and some nominal resale price is probably about the best you can expect.

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I know something about vehicles and that is that diesel engines can commonly run 1,000,000 km and more. A good rust prevention program can help the body last a long time and that includes regular car washing at least every two weeks.

I would recommend " Lemon Aid " which rates automobiles. Also many different auto magazines available. If 3 or 4 agree, it is likely you will have a winner. there is also "Consumer Reports" magazine. These can save you from costly mistakes and guide you to good vehicles.

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It is a disposable car. I would not expect it to last tooo long after the warranty has expired.

Nonsense... those days are gone for major brands... we aren't talking about a 1973 Fiat here. They really don't make rubbish anymore.

it should last just fine to 150k kilometers if you don't beat it to death. The number of cylinders has no bearing on how long the engine will last.

But worrying abut the value of a 400,000 baht car in 20 years is a bit rich. Ten years of service (150k km) and some nominal resale price is probably about the best you can expect.

No worry about the value of it at any time. I buy my vehicles with cash, keep them forever and value them as worth 0 baht because I will never sell them. The money I pay is strictly for their service, not as some sort of asset. :)

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Nothing to do with the number of cylinders, let the manufacturer sort that out. It's a Nissan - it'll outlive you. My Nissan Micra (precursor to the March) was a great car (left the country, had to sell it).

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I have had Nissan Toyota cars before here. All second hand and have had very few problems with them. In my opinion the best was the Toyota Soluna (Circa 1997).

Unless you have more money than sense why buy a new car, the price of cars here is extortinate I'd rather invest the money in bricks n mortar.

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I have a Toyota VIos that is now 6 years Old aside from replacing a Battery and Belt It drives like a new car. I suspect with minor repairs over time It will last at least another 10 or 15 years.

Next Year get new tires

Cars in general will last 10 or more years. The car industry understands this. This is why banks will lend against a car for a period of up to 7 years

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Unless you have more money than sense why buy a new car, the price of cars here is extortinate I'd rather invest the money in bricks n mortar.

Exactly my thinking.

Cheap entry level new car - 500k.

25% the cost of a 2m baht condo. crazy.gif

Far too out of sync for me to put my money into all but the cheapest vehicle options.

Looking at used car prices the Protons and Kias seem to dissolve in terms of value. 180k baht for a 3 yr old one.

Best to stick with boring reliability. Japanese companies.

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