When switch to new tires? I have passed 58.000 km. from new.

[dagling]

I need to replace my old tires on my MU7 soon have driven them around. 58.000 km. from new. The pattern is still very good, but has been recommended that tires should be replaced after 40.000 km. due to the rubber becomes hard and the tires do not perform well?

So out of sheer curiosity, after how many km. did you swapped out your tiers and why?

[WarpSpeed]

I swap them when they reach the manufacture wear bars at approx. 3 mils tread so I'm probably not the best measure in this case as I don't follow the usual hype to buy new tires at some random mileage some tire merchant has randomly set to increase sales.. I'm also not paranoid about "lost performance" I can feel the loss of performance if any exists and adjust my driving accordingly, but that's just me..

[cornishcarlos]

Approaching 80k on my original tires (Ford Ranger)...

Suppose I should put some new boots on her before 100k

[ALFREDO]

Your km you had driven them already, do not say much, regarding needy to change.

More likely age and how worn down they are.

http://www.wikihow.com/Know-when-Car-Tires-Need-Replacing

http://www.michelin.co.uk/tyres/learn-share/buying-guide/when-should-i-change-my-tyres

[ALFREDO]

Approaching 80k on my original tires (Ford Ranger)...

Suppose I should put some new boots on her before 100k

I knew I drove my old Ford Ranger tires to long, could be 80.000 km,

as one tire lost his air, had a blow out after a fast driven section to my bank before closing time.

Luckily in the Banks parking lot and near a tire shop.

But I changed than all tires, (to late) after I had soon after a second blow out during driving on a High Way in Isaan and had to change the tire alone in the 40 Celsius in shadow heat - but there was no shadow!

I would have paid somebody, a helpful Moto bike driver to do it for me, but nobody stopped.

OMG how I was sweating.

Edited July 8, 2014 by ALFREDO

[dagling]

Your km you had driven them already, do not say much, regarding needy to change.

More likely age and how worn down they are.

http://www.wikihow.com/Know-when-Car-Tires-Need-Replacing

http://www.michelin.co.uk/tyres/learn-share/buying-guide/when-should-i-change-my-tyres

My car will be 3 years in September.

[ALFREDO]

-dagling-

I believe, from age, you can drive them 2 years more, so it depends how much used they are possibly before already.

Think, I had them to long, 6? years on my Ranger.

[Kwasaki]

Your km you had driven them already, do not say much, regarding needy to change.

More likely age and how worn down they are.

http://www.wikihow.com/Know-when-Car-Tires-Need-Replacing

http://www.michelin.co.uk/tyres/learn-share/buying-guide/when-should-i-change-my-tyres

My car will be 3 years in September.

I condone what ' warby ' says, it's a straight forward way to go.

A good cockpit outlet at my recent service checked my tyres when it went up on the ramp and there nearly 5 years old, no problem.

[transam]

Don't listen to the tyre shop, keep on motoring.........

[WarpSpeed]

Your km you had driven them already, do not say much, regarding needy to change.

More likely age and how worn down they are.

http://www.wikihow.com/Know-when-Car-Tires-Need-Replacing

http://www.michelin.co.uk/tyres/learn-share/buying-guide/when-should-i-change-my-tyres

My car will be 3 years in September.

BTW OP out of curiosity? What brand?

[transam]

I swap them when they reach the manufacture wear bars at approx. 3 mils tread so I'm probably not the best measure in this case as I don't follow the usual hype to buy new tires at some random mileage some tire merchant has randomly set to increase sales.. I'm also not paranoid about "lost performance" I can feel the loss of performance if any exists and adjust my driving accordingly, but that's just me..

Me too.......

[bkkjames]

By the way, don't forget to rotate.... I did last weekend and the guy at the shop seemed a bit surprised I wanted to: 300 for the rotate + 340 for the alignment. I asked him in Thai do many Thai people come in for rotation, he replied no, they buy new lol

[transam]

I still have two tyres on the truck 7 years old, nothing wrong with them. OP, remember folk like Michelin guarantee their tyres for six years on a car, 9 years if the tyre has been on a shelf for 3 years.

[dagling]

I still have two tyres on the truck 7 years old, nothing wrong with them. OP, remember folk like Michelin guarantee their tyres for six years on a car, 9 years if the tyre has been on a shelf for 3 years.

And how many km. in 7 years? I have the original Bridgestone tyres, but make me a bit worry when people say they change tyres after 40.000 km. because they dont`t want to have some blow out in 120 km/h

[ALFREDO]

I still have two tyres on the truck 7 years old, nothing wrong with them. OP, remember folk like Michelin guarantee their tyres for six years on a car, 9 years if the tyre has been on a shelf for 3 years.

And how many km. in 7 years? I have the original Bridgestone tyres, but make me a bit worry when people say they change tyres after 40.000 km. because they dont`t want to have some blow out in 120 km/h

Same I wrote, the -blow out- can come from old tires, not from the 40.000 km,

if you are not spinning them same a Dragster in Burn outs.

[planemad]

Never felt the need to change tyres before they were worn out or blown out. If they have lasted 58K with wear left on them, then you are not a particularly aggressive driver otherwis they would have been worn out already. You might wish to check the sidewalls for cracks which will develope with age, but even this is not a sure indication of time to change.

With regard to rotating wheels (isnt that what they do anyway ), I do not believe that it helps, in fact quite the oposite. You can only rotate wheels front to rear otherwise you will have the wrong direction of rotation. Rear wheels will usually have a neutral camber whereas front wheels will have a toe in/out camber which will require the tyres to be worn in again in their new positions which will certainly not extent the life of the tyre.

If however you ever feel that your safety is at risk, change them!

Be safe.

[WarpSpeed]

...... Duplicate post....

Edited July 9, 2014 by WarpSpeed

[WarpSpeed]

With regard to rotating wheels (isnt that what they do anyway ), I do not believe that it helps, in fact quite the oposite. You can only rotate wheels front to rear otherwise you will have the wrong direction of rotation. Rear wheels will usually have a neutral camber whereas front wheels will have a toe in/out camber which will require the tyres to be worn in again in their new positions which will certainly not extent the life of the tyre.

Not true, it absolutely extends the life of a set of tires..

[cooked]

As stated above, 3mm tread is time to change. You can still sell them!

Rotating tyres should be done diagonally, but you may wish to examine the state of the rubber itself to be sure that this is worthwhile. I have seen tyres with fissures in all sorts of directions, bad news.

[culicine]

I still have two tyres on the truck 7 years old, nothing wrong with them. OP, remember folk like Michelin guarantee their tyres for six years on a car, 9 years if the tyre has been on a shelf for 3 years.

And how many km. in 7 years? I have the original Bridgestone tyres, but make me a bit worry when people say they change tyres after 40.000 km. because they dont`t want to have some blow out in 120 km/h

Do you notice any change in noise levels or performance characteristics such as how well the perform under hard braking? I changed some yokohamas at 40K because they were becoming excessively noisy, and I noticed that the grip was lower (hardened rubber) - easier to spin the wheels on hard accelerations - something an auto honda civic shouldn't be able to do . There was still plenty of tread, so we performance was still ok. So if there are no obvious issues, I don't thing there is any need to change them.

[WarpSpeed]

As stated above, 3mm tread is time to change. You can still sell them!

Rotating tyres should be done diagonally, but you may wish to examine the state of the rubber itself to be sure that this is worthwhile. I have seen tyres with fissures in all sorts of directions, bad news.

Sorry once again to make a correction, hope you don't take this one personally too, but at any rate it requires correction for safety's sake, not steel belted, steel belted are changed front to rear only..

This time for the comfort of all concerned I've enclosed a illustration to verify my advice so there's no need to argue the point or the personal long time experience behind it. I'm not going to be be arsed to do this in every post to validate my advice any more than anyone else is required to do so, sometimes it'll just have to be taken on faith value if one wishes to follow it and if not well, no skin off my nose...

Edited July 9, 2014 by WarpSpeed

[biggles45]

The Philippines has a great system with the tyres on the public jeepneys....they wait until the canvas is showing....and then put the bald spare tyre on. !!

[jacko45k]

I replace them when they need it.

I believe manufacturers are in the business of selling tyres.

If there is sufficient tread on the full surface, and they do not shatter from brittle rubber when I kick them, and no cracks are apparent, I feel confident.

[rdteth]

Mitsu triton. 88000 km. 3.5 years. Bridgestone light truck tiers. Time for a change now

[MoonShadow]

On my old 4 X 4 Ford the tyres needed changing about 50K on my current Ford I have 65K (rear wheel drive only) but I changed the front tyres because the rubber was hard and the grip in the wet was fading....still good tread but there was a deffinate grip issue. With new tyres on the front she is good in the wet at speed on good roads.....so for me its about grip not tread.

[gung7]

Hi all

My tyres have done 145k pick 9 years old tyres legal to uk standards, just changed 2 front tyres owing to tracking problem resulting in uneven wear.

[Coaster11]

Manufacturers quote long life tires good up to 80,000 miles.

Just changed the bridgestone light truck tires on my pickup after 125,000k's and 8 years on the vehicle.

Tread was close to 3ml but they were still sticking like glue but the fear of a blow out was too great by then.

Rotation at 100,000k's gave them a new lease of life.

Easiest way to encourage a blow out is by driving around with them under inflated all the time. Side wall damage will see to that.

Edited July 10, 2014 by Coaster11

[MZurf]

As stated above, 3mm tread is time to change. You can still sell them!

Rotating tyres should be done diagonally, but you may wish to examine the state of the rubber itself to be sure that this is worthwhile. I have seen tyres with fissures in all sorts of directions, bad news.

Sorry once again to make a correction, hope you don't take this one personally too, but at any rate it requires correction for safety's sake, not steel belted, steel belted are changed front to rear only..

This time for the comfort of all concerned I've enclosed a illustration to verify my advice so there's no need to argue the point or the personal long time experience behind it. I'm not going to be be arsed to do this in every post to validate my advice any more than anyone else is required to do so, sometimes it'll just have to be taken on faith value if one wishes to follow it and if not well, no skin off my nose...

What's the difference between bias and radial ply, and how do I find out which type I have on my car?

[bkkjames]

took me 5 seconds to google radial vs bias http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Z0pkqq9dbs for bike tires but informative

Edited July 10, 2014 by bkkjames

[WarpSpeed]

As stated above, 3mm tread is time to change. You can still sell them!

Rotating tyres should be done diagonally, but you may wish to examine the state of the rubber itself to be sure that this is worthwhile. I have seen tyres with fissures in all sorts of directions, bad news.

Sorry once again to make a correction, hope you don't take this one personally too, but at any rate it requires correction for safety's sake, not steel belted, steel belted are changed front to rear only..

This time for the comfort of all concerned I've enclosed a illustration to verify my advice so there's no need to argue the point or the personal long time experience behind it. I'm not going to be be arsed to do this in every post to validate my advice any more than anyone else is required to do so, sometimes it'll just have to be taken on faith value if one wishes to follow it and if not well, no skin off my nose...

What's the difference between bias and radial ply, and how do I find out which type I have on my car?

Highly unlikely you have biased ply tires on a modern car, really haven't used them for quite some time for autos, not even sure they make them any more for autos, mostly on larger trucks, trailers, buses, and as I guess now can also be added some motorcycles depending on the application needs, as the side walls tend to be stiffer, load carrying vehicles, though durability and performance not as good but these vehicles don't need those features and steel belted tires tend to be more expensive. They do not contain steel belts instead they have polyester ply belting and it is wrapped differently from steel belts thus the stiffness and loss of compliance and puncture protection that steel belted tires provide, it would say steel or bias ply on the sidewall....

Ok so I just watched the video James provided and it says much the same as what I said even if mostly referenced to bikes. I'd say though it seems they left off the fact that bias ply are not steel belted, they are cord and not steel, it seems that video was just referencing the actual belt structure and not the composition of the belts.

Edit: Just had a look and they do still make them but mostly for classic cars to retain that original look and profile, as I said not really for modern cars and not likely to find them for newer cars or on any newer cars since mid 70's..

Edited July 10, 2014 by WarpSpeed