First free solo Rock Climb ascent in Phuket -- watch it POV!

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Hi there,

I'm not 100% sure something like this has never been done in Phuket before, but I highly doubt it (and I've lived here for 15 years, have managed an adventure team building consultancy for over a decade, and have never heard of such) -- unlike Krabi, Phuket is not at all known for rock climbing because 99% of the rock here just isn't suitable (very undependable, not good hard limestone like Krabi has).

But after seeing a cliff on a hill from the road for many, many years, and telling myself I needed to at least check it out someday, I FINALLY got around to visiting the place recently, Sony Action Cam & climbing shoes in hand just in case, though I really didn't expect to find any good quality, climbable rock -- I was wrong....

And I'd like to share my experience with others interested in Phuket; despite the issues it faces this really is a wonderful little island and there's a lot more to discover than beaches, bars and shopping malls if one makes the effort -- hope you will enjoy mine (best to watch in HD 1080p setting and with your speakers on!):

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Finally, PLEASE DO NOT try such a climbing challenge 'free solo' style (no ropes or protection whatsoever), as depicted in this video, unless you are a VERY experienced rock climber AND are willing to take the very real chance you will die or get seriously injured...I take absolutely no responsibility for any other person's actions by revealing the location of this cliff, which note is on private property.

Edited October 3, 2014 by Gforcejunkypkt

[Gforcejunkypkt]

By the way, this HD video is not a 2-3 min. YouTube snippet, more of 'mini-documentary' of sorts, so it might take some time to load, esp. on a mobile network -- the most I could squash an intense 35 min. climb down into, while still maintaining integrity and flow, was 15:30. So maybe grab a beer, coffee or juice, sit back, try to put yourself into the experience and hold on to your chair!

Edited October 3, 2014 by Gforcejunkypkt

[Jerry Cornelius]

Well done, you now have the privilege of naming and grading your red pointed route.

This could lead to a base knowledge of VS climbs (or any grading of climbs/bouldering) in Phuket and other areas.

Climbing or bouldering information of routes here should be accessible to all interested parties in a truly committed climbing community.

Then again!!!

Business 'opportunities' seem to prevail and ethics disappear.

Jerry

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Well done, you now have the privilege of naming and grading your red pointed route.

This could lead to a base knowledge of VS climbs (or any grading of climbs/bouldering) in Phuket and other areas.

Climbing or bouldering information of routes here should be accessible to all interested parties in a truly committed climbing community.

Then again!!!

Business 'opportunities' seem to prevail and ethics disappear.

Jerry

Thanks for watching Jerry and the comments, which I surely agree with your sentiments regarding an open and committed climbing community (and one ideally not based on or affected by the all mighty Baht/Dollar). Frankly though, cool as it is, I really can't see this particular place being commercialized; most serious climbers I reckon will still be heading toward the far superior Krabi.

But I'll be trying to find the owner of the land (not always easy here) to get proper permission for personal, non-commercial use (of course totally at climbers own risk/responsibility and with indemnity toward the owner). Hopefully if me and and a Thai friend approach them in the right way they'll be cool about it (though what others, if any, might come along afterwards and do, of course I can't really control).

But likewise, if permission is secured to use the site (which nothing has been going on there for many years), I would surely welcome the help of any other climbers resident or maybe visiting in the future (esp. any more climbing tech-savvy) to help open up new routes -- and for such a relatively small place there's a wonderful variety of rock faces: a beautiful, nearly sheer wall to the left, the mid-level stuff like I was on in the center and even some overhanging/small roof stuff on the right. There's also some nice bouldering on the sides.

So if any fellow climbers out there who want to collaborate and have some fun, incl. of course yourself Jerry, leave a message here or PM me!

[falkan]

that looks dangerous..

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Also Jerry I've named the route 'What Mid-life Crisis?' and as per the YouTube Description box I can't really say I'm a super expert on grading routes, 5.9/5.10 is just my estimate for a couple of the harder moves, the rest are quite a bit easier (though often complicated by slippery or brittle sections). I'm also aware that climbing without a rope can make moves/routes feel quite a bit harder than if one was climbing with the confidence of a good rope for protection, so again I would kinda take my stated grades with a pinch of salt so to speak.

But along these lines I hope to meet up with other like-minded people any time we could there and get there opinions/help in grading new routes.

[stevehaigh]

i'm an out of shape rock climber and very interested in teaming up with local climbers. my lead climbing days are over however, strictly top rope (or deep water soloing) at this point i think.

if anyone is looking for partners, please PM me

[Gforcejunkypkt]

i'm an out of shape rock climber and very interested in teaming up with local climbers. my lead climbing days are over however, strictly top rope (or deep water soloing) at this point i think.

if anyone is looking for partners, please PM me

Perfect Steve, and no better way to get back into shape than climbing! Likewise I myself prefer top rope (nothing against trad/sports climbing but I just personally prefer spending more time climbing and concentrating on the rock/moves rather than on using tons of gear). I'll post a pic of a nice little wall there soon that would be great for top roping.

Will PM you in a bit with my contact details, but would be happy to meet up when schedules/weather permit with yourself or any others in the area. Would also love to do some deep water soloing! It'd great to get a few guys together to share on a speedboat, esp. after the weather gets better; I've got contacts along these lines to get pretty decent non-touristy level prices.

Also, maybe if there's enough interest we could start a Climbing (or at least Adventure Sports) Group or Sub-forum whatever it's called on TV.

[Old Croc]

Just watched a documentary about a guy, Alex someone, who free climbed 3 rock faces, a total of 7000', in a national park in the US in about 18 hours.

Scarily good.

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Just watched a documentary about a guy, Alex someone, who free climbed 3 rock faces, a total of 7000', in a national park in the US in about 18 hours.

Scarily good.

Yes sir, his name is Alex Honnold and he's amazing. There are some crazy good videos of him in action on YT. He's pretty much considered tops in the world for solo climbing now -- what he does on a regular basis makes my little climb look like a walk in the park! (of course he's 20 years younger, but like Alain Robert "Spiderman" (who is in his 50's now but still doing it!) and climbed all of those skyscrapers etc., they just have a level of focus/confidence that's on a completely different level than 99.99% of the people walking this planet).

That said, long-time/frequent practitioners, of which I really am no longer, do have quite a lower overall life expectancy rate rather unsurprisingly -- there's always the question of when you should quit while you are ahead...and more than a few go past that point (e.g. Dan Osman -- there are plenty of interesting reads online about his life/death).

Edited October 4, 2014 by Gforcejunkypkt

[hansgruber]

Just watched the whole video and very impressive.

I've seen that rock formation for years and had no idea it was that big. From the road below you can only see the top 10 metres. I'm guessing it's an old mine.

Once you got to the top I noticed the land is clear and not overgrown. What's going on up further and how did you get back down?

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Just watched the whole video and very impressive.

I've seen that rock formation for years and had no idea it was that big. From the road below you can only see the top 10 metres. I'm guessing it's an old mine.

Once you got to the top I noticed the land is clear and not overgrown. What's going on up further and how did you get back down?

Thx Hans, and you're right, I was pretty shocked how big/high it was compared to what I saw from the road (and better rock quality than I suspected as well).

I don't think it's an old tin mine -- I'm not sure but my impression was that a developer started digging out the place to put a house/homes and then realized that whole hillside is one huge, very hard quartz-granite rock (to the back where the cliff is and on the level part below the cliffs too), and maybe it became too expensive to keep cutting/digging it out. But it looks to have been 'abandoned' more than a bit ago (though I wouldn't be totally surprised if someone comes along someday and builds a house there).

At the very top and toward the back it's been cleared somewhat and as you saw there are some rubber trees growing there, though not sure if they're currently being tapped. As I needed to get home I didn't explore further down the backside, but surely will on a future trip to see if there's any more decent rock; there's likely some kind of dirt road or trail leading up there from the backside, will let you know.

I came back down along the ridge (and over the top of the sheer wall to the right). I'm going to be posting another video (making it now), showing part of that descent when I ran into a beautiful little crack which I down climbed bouldering style, though there are easier ways down in the same area.

Edited October 4, 2014 by Gforcejunkypkt

[stevehaigh]

i wonder where to get climbing shoes around here. i expect you can but them at some of the climbing places in Krabi but super expensive. maybe online?

[Gforcejunkypkt]

HI Steve, yep that is kind of an issue because to my knowledge nobody is selling climbing shoes on Phuket (though would love to be corrected if others knew otherwise). So yes, that leaves Krabi as pretty much your only option, and they're not cheap, like anywhere, maybe 5,000-10,000 Thb), though I'm pretty sure BKK also has a few places selling them (google & call "The Climbing Factory"; I think they probably have some (though sizing could be an issue) or could tell you where else in BKK to check.

And yeah I'm sure you could get them online, though a) I'm personally only 50-50 confident in local postal services (except maybe UPS and FedEx) and of course there'd be the issue of being sure about sizing/fit as you know how personal this is in particular with climbing shoes.

If my buddy has any left over shoes from that former co. and in foreigner kind of sizes I'll also certainly let you know.

Edited October 5, 2014 by Gforcejunkypkt

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Here's a picture of the super mini-'Yosemite' like wall that should be fun to open a few routes on. I didn't check it out up close as I was focused on the 'lady' I was about to get intimate with in the middle, but it looks like there's nice crack just off the right of center as just one possibility.

Edited October 5, 2014 by Gforcejunkypkt

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Hi there, here's a second video I made from my first excursion to Chalong Bay Cliffs -- it's a shorter clip featuring part of the descent from the top, going down the side of a ridge, when I came across a beautiful little crack that I couldn't resist downclimbing (and it would make a fun bouldering route going the usual direction too:)

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[Gforcejunkypkt]

Forgot to say, as per the YT description I have named this on-sight, red-pointed bouldering route, 'Phuket Crackdown!' -- in honor of all the crackdowns the island has seen over the last months -- not that I make any political statement in regard to these per se; politics and rock climbing are 2 different things and the former isn't my business here .

[KarenBravo]

but it looks like there's nice crack just off the right of center as just one possibility.

You're still talking about the "lady", yeah?

[Old Croc]

but it looks like there's nice crack just off the right of center as just one possibility.

You're still talking about the "lady", yeah?

I wouldn't try to mount that one, I dress to the left.

[Tapster]

@Gforcejunkypkt

Cool, man!!

I'm really impressed by your explorations!

My wife and I are moving to Phuket in December. We spent Feb-September this year checking it out and we’re leaving South Africa which is a lovely, but troubled country, to live a safer (yes, only relatively!) and happier life in LOS.

I’ve been climbing for years and in Johannesburg where we live I have helped develop some new climbing areas. I have all the bolting gear (big cordless drill, etc., etc.) and experience in route setting.

All this stuff will arrive when our container does, some time in Feb/March 2015.

I’d love to be involved in a project to develop this area. I have been slightly disappointed that there’s no climbing in Phuket. It has no limestone as far as I know and so doesn’t have the fabulous formations they get in Krabi and to a lesser extent on the sea cliffs of Koh Yao Noi. Both the latter areas aren’t exactly a day trip from Phuket, well not there and back anyway, so having a climbing area in Phuket would be a great training resource, honing our skills for longer trips to the other areas.

Anyway, I’d like to be involved and I’m not an egomaniac. I would have no intention at all to steal your “Crag X”.

Before the area can be developed, and money spent on expensive bolts, anchors and other hardware, the owner would normally be contacted and access negotiated. As this is Thailand and things are probably very different regarding the expectations of landowners, permissions and even the dreaded dollar raising its head, I completely bow to local custom and those who have lived in LOS for some time.

Anyway, I think it sounds like a potentially very exciting addition to the activities in Phuket and I’ll be available either by private messages or by open discussion (which might be more interesting for all concerned) to chat about your discovery.

[Gforcejunkypkt]

@Gforcejunkypkt

Cool, man!!

I'm really impressed by your explorations!

My wife and I are moving to Phuket in December. We spent Feb-September this year checking it out and we’re leaving South Africa which is a lovely, but troubled country, to live a safer (yes, only relatively!) and happier life in LOS.

I’ve been climbing for years and in Johannesburg where we live I have helped develop some new climbing areas. I have all the bolting gear (big cordless drill, etc., etc.) and experience in route setting.

All this stuff will arrive when our container does, some time in Feb/March 2015.

I’d love to be involved in a project to develop this area. I have been slightly disappointed that there’s no climbing in Phuket. It has no limestone as far as I know and so doesn’t have the fabulous formations they get in Krabi and to a lesser extent on the sea cliffs of Koh Yao Noi. Both the latter areas aren’t exactly a day trip from Phuket, well not there and back anyway, so having a climbing area in Phuket would be a great training resource, honing our skills for longer trips to the other areas.

Anyway, I’d like to be involved and I’m not an egomaniac. I would have no intention at all to steal your “Crag X”.

Before the area can be developed, and money spent on expensive bolts, anchors and other hardware, the owner would normally be contacted and access negotiated. As this is Thailand and things are probably very different regarding the expectations of landowners, permissions and even the dreaded dollar raising its head, I completely bow to local custom and those who have lived in LOS for some time.

Anyway, I think it sounds like a potentially very exciting addition to the activities in Phuket and I’ll be available either by private messages or by open discussion (which might be more interesting for all concerned) to chat about your discovery.

Thanks for your comments! And very glad to hear that you'll be coming to Phuket, and even more so with your technical knowledge and gear While I have some decent climbing under my chalk bag belt it's been mostly bouldering and free soloing (more than a bit of which I probably shouldn't have been soloing ). So your experience will for sure be appreciated, and I have some ropes knowledgeable Thai friends & staff who can help as well -- assuming as you say we get proper permission from the land owner!

I'm off for an overseas program soon, but after returning it's high on the agenda to go find out who actually owns the land and then hopefully arranging a little meeting. One never knows if such a person will be cool or a dork, but I've got some good staff who are used to asking permission to use places for our corporate adventures, I'll certainly keep you up to date of any developments in this regard.

And no worries about 'egomaniac' dynamics, while I might be kind of a show-off I wouldn't consider myself an egomaniac -- anyway it's not my cliff, it's Mother Nature's! -- if it works out we get access I'm happy to work and share with any others who are interested and make a like effort.

We can PM further -- I sometimes get really busy with work and might not reply to posts or messages right away but certainly would try to do so as soon as I could. For now I leave you with another view of that nice little main wall -- nothing super high but I'm sure we could have some fun:

[Tapster]

Thanks for your comments! And very glad to hear that you'll be coming to Phuket, and even more so with your technical knowledge and gear While I have some decent climbing under my chalk bag belt it's been mostly bouldering and free soloing (more than a bit of which I probably shouldn't have been soloing ). So your experience will for sure be appreciated, and I have some ropes knowledgeable Thai friends & staff who can help as well -- assuming as you say we get proper permission from the land owner!

I'm off for an overseas program soon, but after returning it's high on the agenda to go find out who actually owns the land and then hopefully arranging a little meeting. One never knows if such a person will be cool or a dork, but I've got some good staff who are used to asking permission to use places for our corporate adventures, I'll certainly keep you up to date of any developments in this regard.

And no worries about 'egomaniac' dynamics, while I might be kind of a show-off I wouldn't consider myself an egomaniac -- anyway it's not my cliff, it's Mother Nature's! -- if it works out we get access I'm happy to work and share with any others who are interested and make a like effort.

We can PM further -- I sometimes get really busy with work and might not reply to posts or messages right away but certainly would try to do so as soon as I could. For now I leave you with another view of that nice little main wall -- nothing super high but I'm sure we could have some fun:

@Gforcejunkypkt

Thanks for the reply.

It sounds like you're well placed to find out about the owner and access, etc. That's great!

I'll get in touch nearer our move to Phuket and we'll see how things are looking then. Obviously I'll also see any other posts here.

Just to whet my appetite, how high is this main wall? It's so hard to tell from photos.

Cheers and have a good trip abroad

[hansgruber]

Attached is a screenshot of the map where I found a huge rock wall. It looks exactly the same as the Chalong one only bigger.

Note the word trang on the map and the big open space next to it. That the spot if you're keen to do some exploring. It's very close to Koh sirey.

[hansgruber]

The satellite image is better. Can See the stone.

[Tapster]

Hans, that's awesome!

I've saved the spot.

It higher than the Chalong cliff, you reckon? That's brilliant. Higher = more moves to get to the top = better training for strength, better training for being comfortable at height. It's all good!

I'm getting excited about this. Training walls in Phuket, new climbers, re-born climbers, social shit, beer! You know it makes sense!

Do you climb?

[hansgruber]

Hans, that's awesome!

I've saved the spot.

It higher than the Chalong cliff, you reckon? That's brilliant. Higher = more moves to get to the top = better training for strength, better training for being comfortable at height. It's all good!

I'm getting excited about this. Training walls in Phuket, new climbers, re-born climbers, social shit, beer! You know it makes sense!

Do you climb?

No. Scared of heights actually but I love exploring and bush walking.

This thread now has me on the look out for more exploration areas.

This formation looks much more difficult but I couldn't stop to explore today.

Please report back and let me know how it is or video your maiden climb.

[Tapster]

Maybe you can try top-roping.....totally safe and you can be lowered off any time you don't feel good.

Thanks for the exploring idea. If we can get access permissions there's some exciting potential by the sound of it.

I'm in South Africa until late December but there are others who will take up the challenge in the meantime, I'm sure.

When I get to Phuket I'll be keen to get out and see what's around. If you've found some possible crags, maybe we could go together sometime.

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Thanks for your comments! And very glad to hear that you'll be coming to Phuket, and even more so with your technical knowledge and gear While I have some decent climbing under my chalk bag belt it's been mostly bouldering and free soloing (more than a bit of which I probably shouldn't have been soloing ). So your experience will for sure be appreciated, and I have some ropes knowledgeable Thai friends & staff who can help as well -- assuming as you say we get proper permission from the land owner!

I'm off for an overseas program soon, but after returning it's high on the agenda to go find out who actually owns the land and then hopefully arranging a little meeting. One never knows if such a person will be cool or a dork, but I've got some good staff who are used to asking permission to use places for our corporate adventures, I'll certainly keep you up to date of any developments in this regard.

And no worries about 'egomaniac' dynamics, while I might be kind of a show-off I wouldn't consider myself an egomaniac -- anyway it's not my cliff, it's Mother Nature's! -- if it works out we get access I'm happy to work and share with any others who are interested and make a like effort.

We can PM further -- I sometimes get really busy with work and might not reply to posts or messages right away but certainly would try to do so as soon as I could. For now I leave you with another view of that nice little main wall -- nothing super high but I'm sure we could have some fun:

@Gforcejunkypkt

Thanks for the reply.

It sounds like you're well placed to find out about the owner and access, etc. That's great!

I'll get in touch nearer our move to Phuket and we'll see how things are looking then. Obviously I'll also see any other posts here.

Just to whet my appetite, how high is this main wall? It's so hard to tell from photos.

Cheers and have a good trip abroad

The wall's actually a bit shorter than the middle section I already climbed, I'd say about 20-25m, but it's more sheer and better quality rock. At that height I'm not sure it's even worth it to drill and bolt, in fact after a top roped climb or two I think I could probably solo that crack (esp. if it's anything like that beautiful little bouldering crack in the 2nd video above).

So not super high but better than nothing as you imply, of course Phuket will never be a Krabi but that doesn't mean we can't make the most of what we've got (and then yes, once in a while as time etc. permits, take a longer trip out to Krabi and as @Steve says above some deep water soloing).

[Gforcejunkypkt]

uploadfromtaptalk1412928274189.jpg

The satellite image is better. Can See the stone.

Thanks for sharing @hansgruber! Actually I know that formation and was going to mention about it but you beat me to it Like Chalong Bay Cliffs it's an abandoned development site that looks like someone was wanting to develop but gave up -- and that was many years ago! It's down Rassada Rd. not super far from Rajahabat University (but on the other side of Thepkassatri Rd.) About 13 years or so ago I lived down that road for about 6 months and could see the area, which one day I hiked back into (it's not super far). If memory serves me correctly I think yes, it is at least as high if not higher than the center section of Chalong Bay Cliffs; I also have the impression it was wider in scope as well but can't remember for sure.

However, I do also distinctly remember walking up to one of the walls and testing some rock, which broke away pretty easily, instant turn off to a mostly solo climber, and never went back. Part of the problem is that wall largely faces west, so gets more sun, wind and rain (and which is why the CBC site is largely good rock, because it faces south and receives less of these).

All of that said, it's quite possible that with the help of another person or two and some top ropes, that some of the better routes could be cleaned of weathered rock and made into good climbs -- certainly worth another look!

And also glad to hear that you like hiking and exploring -- as I'd bet you know there are actually a lot of "unvisited/unseen" (except maybe by rubber tree planters/harvesters perhaps) places in the hills and jungles of Phuket! So would be great to have an "on the ground" adventurer like yourself (or any others' contributions welcome too), keeping an eye open for interesting rock formations (even shorter boulders, esp. if they're good rock). And if you find a cool place that we are able to climb at, we'll be happy to name the site after you, maybe "Hans Gruber Heights" (or whatever takes your fancy).

Esp. if people are interested to contribute or even just check out the adventures of others, as mused above in a previous post, maybe we can start a new sub-forum, something like Phuket Adventures & Explorations (only outdoor stuff of course, no bars, shopping or restaurants), though not being very long here on TV I wouldn't know at this point how to do that or if even possible. Sorry for the long post!

[Old Croc]

uploadfromtaptalk1412928274189.jpg

The satellite image is better. Can See the stone.

Thanks for sharing @hansgruber! Actually I know that formation and was going to mention about it but you beat me to it Like Chalong Bay Cliffs it's an abandoned development site that looks like someone was wanting to develop but gave up -- and that was many years ago! It's down Rassada Rd. not super far from Rajahabat University (but on the other side of Thepkassatri Rd.) About 13 years or so ago I lived down that road for about 6 months and could see the area, which one day I hiked back into (it's not super far). If memory serves me correctly I think yes, it is at least as high if not higher than the center section of Chalong Bay Cliffs; I also have the impression it was wider in scope as well but can't remember for sure.

However, I do also distinctly remember walking up to one of the walls and testing some rock, which broke away pretty easily, instant turn off to a mostly solo climber, and never went back. Part of the problem is that wall largely faces west, so gets more sun, wind and rain (and which is why the CBC site is largely good rock, because it faces south and receives less of these).

All of that said, it's quite possible that with the help of another person or two and some top ropes, that some of the better routes could be cleaned of weathered rock and made into good climbs -- certainly worth another look!

And also glad to hear that you like hiking and exploring -- as I'd bet you know there are actually a lot of "unvisited/unseen" (except maybe by rubber tree planters/harvesters perhaps) places in the hills and jungles of Phuket! So would be great to have an "on the ground" adventurer like yourself (or any others' contributions welcome too), keeping an eye open for interesting rock formations (even shorter boulders, esp. if they're good rock). And if you find a cool place that we are able to climb at, we'll be happy to name the site after you, maybe "Hans Gruber Heights" (or whatever takes your fancy).

Esp. if people are interested to contribute or even just check out the adventures of others, as mused above in a previous post, maybe we can start a new sub-forum, something like Phuket Adventures & Explorations (only outdoor stuff of course, no bars, shopping or restaurants), though not being very long here on TV I wouldn't know at this point how to do that or if even possible. Sorry for the long post!

How about Hans Gruber Fell?

A fell (from Old Norse fell, fjall, "mountain"[1]) is a high and barren landscape feature, such as a mountain range or moor-covered hills - Wiki

Edited October 11, 2014 by Old Croc