How do I run Cat 5 cable from Router to back yard to have WiFi for Tablet ?

[BKKdreaming]

Hi

I have a router in the house and I would like to run a 50 foot CAT 5 / 6 cable from the router to the back yard.....

But how do I get WIFI out of the Cat 5 cable ?

Do I need another Router or ????????

The WiFi signal out of the indoor router does not reach back there

I would want to use the back yard WIFI on a Tablet, phone etc and maybe a notebook

thanks for your help

[KittenKong]

You need an access point:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dcomputers&field-keywords=access+point

Another option might be Homeplugs, depending on the layout of your house and the state of the electrical wiring:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_3?url=search-alias%3Dcomputers&field-keywords=homeplug&sprefix=hom%2Ccomputers%2C444

A third option might be wireless extenders:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_3_14?url=search-alias%3Dcomputers&field-keywords=wireless%20repeater%20extender&sprefix=wireless+repea%2Ccomputers%2C493

Edited January 24, 2015 by KittenKong

[NeverSure]

Do you have an electrical outlet outside, or even near a window inside? You could use a wireless range extender like this, without running ethernet.

http://www.amazon.com/Linksys-Wireless-Range-Extender-RE2000/dp/B00BFW8KM2/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

Edited January 24, 2015 by NeverSure

[BKKdreaming]

does the electric need to be on the same line / fuse in the fusebox ?

[NeverSure]

does the electric need to be on the same line / fuse in the fusebox ?

No, it will just need power.

Be sure that whatever you get boosts the signal strength back up to normal or better. Some access points don't do that. They are designed only to allow connecting wireless to ethernet. Read the small print.

I once designed a system for a 450 bed hospital that had 3 buildings on the campus. Running wires of any type was out of the question due to several factors. We used wireless bridges and picked up those signals with range extenders at the destination buildings. You don't need a bridge, you need a range extender regardless of what it's called on the package.

[BKKdreaming]

will it help if I put an 8db taller antenna on the router ?

[RichCor]

does the electric need to be on the same line / fuse in the fusebox ?

No, it will just need power.

Be sure that whatever you get boosts the signal strength back up to normal or better. Some access points don't do that. They are designed only to allow connecting wireless to ethernet. Read the small print.

I once designed a system for a 450 bed hospital that had 3 buildings on the campus. Running wires of any type was out of the question due to several factors. We used wireless bridges and picked up those signals with range extenders at the destination buildings. You don't need a bridge, you need a range extender regardless of what it's called on the package.

As NeverSure points out, you can easily purchase Range Extenders, but you'll need to read the package to see what they need/use to operate

Package types of Extender:

1. WiFi Range Extender

Range Extender Only Mode, or a unit that can be 'Set" to Range Extender Mode (like Asus RT-N12 router)

These type of devices use their Radio Antennas to receive and resend your existing WiFi signal, so they need to be placed close enough to your original WiFi Point in order to receive and make a connection, and then pass/resend it along to where you need it.

Some Range Extenders look like a normal home router, others are small packages with no external antenna that look like an AC Plug appliance. Know that devices with external antennas generally give better reach/performance.

2. WiFi Range Extender / WiFi PowerLine Extender

"PowerLine" devices use your home wiring as it's cabling. TWO or more units on the Same AC Phase are necessary to create a 'bridge'. The first unit connects a short Ethernet cable into your home router and gets plugged in the AC electrical. The other unit can be placed practically anywhere your home wiring reaches -- and you've now created a bridge.

There are Ethernet Only PowerLine Extenders (NOT what you're looking for), and;

Special packages where the second units are integrated WiFi Range Extenders. The important part to remember is that "PowerLine" devices can only function in pairs.

3. WiFi Access Point

Another option previously mentioned was to run a long Ethernet cable from your current home router and connect a WiFi Access Point at the other end.

So, your 'extension' choices are: by Air (wireless), by AC Electrical, or by long Ethernet Cable.

If used to connect to the Internet they will all work fine. If used with in-home higher bandwidth devices then you may want to stay with the latter options.

[Tywais]

One thing to be aware of if getting a WiFi range extender and it will invariably cut your speed down, as much as half if using a cheaper unit that transmits and receives on the same channel. Several articles out there describing this issue. But even at 50% speed reduction it may still be faster or fast enough for your ISP connection.

“No matter what they are called or technology they use, repeaters start out with a minimum 50% throughput loss. The reason is that a repeater must receive, then retransmit each packet using the same radio on the same channel and with the same SSID. If the repeater is very efficient, then your loss will be close to 50%. But if it’s not, throughput loss can be higher.”

Thanks to that 50% loss in bandwidth right off the top, just about all wireless extenders suck. But the technology has gotten a little better in the past year. If you have to get a Wi-Fi extender, it should be the $80 Netgear WN2500RP, which has a dual-band 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz radio. The extender can use one frequency to communicate with a router and another frequency to communicate with client devices, which bypasses that 50% hit to bandwidth.

thewirecutter.com

[BKKdreaming]

thanks for all the info ,

I do not mind running a Cat 5/6 cable , the router is easy to get to and I have easy access to the back yard ,

will the extenders have their own password ?

Also since we are talking about it , is there anything I can use in my hotel to capture the Wifi signal and rebroadcast it into the room ?

the Wifi works good near the window but not farther into the room since then it needs to go thru walls of the other hotel rooms to get to the hotel router.

again thanks, I learn a lot here

[NeverSure]

Yes the range extender should have a password. Read the manual when you get it.

I thought that for dual band range extenders to use dual band, they had to be receiving the signal from a dual band router. This stuff wasn't out when I was in the biz.

Yes the extender will work in your hotel room IF the signal is clean enough to amplify. Since there's signal at the window, put the extender at the window and it should cover the room well.

[VBF]

does the electric need to be on the same line / fuse in the fusebox ?

No, it will just need power.

Be sure that whatever you get boosts the signal strength back up to normal or better. Some access points don't do that. They are designed only to allow connecting wireless to ethernet. Read the small print.

I once designed a system for a 450 bed hospital that had 3 buildings on the campus. Running wires of any type was out of the question due to several factors. We used wireless bridges and picked up those signals with range extenders at the destination buildings. You don't need a bridge, you need a range extender regardless of what it's called on the package.

Excuse me BKKD but if you use "Homeplugs" aka Powerline adapters then YES the electric DOES need to be on the same line.

To be fair my my experience in the UK (where we typically have Ring Mains) is that if you try and use different rings the PLAs don't synch up. This is because you're using the mains to transfer the data between PLAs and they cannot "see" each other.

I cannot see how it could be different in Thailand - if you've done it successfully, then accept my apologies but I thought the warning timely!

However, for the other solutions suggested, you're correct as with those the mains is only used to supply power

Edited January 25, 2015 by VBF

[Thaimaishoe]

Sorry for the late reply, but there is another way to skin this cat. You can cascade two routers. The main advantage as I see it is flexibility, since the second device is just a standard wi-fi router if you don't need this configuration anymore (or your main router dies) you have a standard router you can put into service until the broken one is replaced. The second way this is more flexible is the network configuration. You can decide between two distinct wi-fi networks or one continuous network. With the first, you would have a 192.168.1.0 network in the house, and a 192.168.2.0 network in the backyard. In the second config you would just have a 192.168.1.0 network broadcast from both routers, so that you can take your tablet or phone and walk from inside to outside, and the switch between routers is seamless. You also get ethernet ports so you can use wired ethernet in the backyard if you like.

I am not familiar with range extenders or access points, so they may be able to do the same things, at least an access point might I don't think range extenders can. The network numbers are just for example, you can configure anyway you decide.

If you want a proper guide on this look here:

http://www.wikihow.com/Cascade-Routers

and a clearer, easier to follow write up from linksys here:

http://kb.linksys.com/Linksys/ukp.aspx?pid=80&vw=1&articleid=3733