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rewiring the whole house


meatboy

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Crossy, on 04 Feb 2015 - 18:56, said:

NEVER, EVER, EVER put Thai outlets on a 'ring main' with a 32A breaker!!!!!!

Ring finals (the proper name) are peculiar to locations like the UK with fused plugs.

Thai plugs are unfused and rated at 16A, you will cause a fire if uncle Somchai plugs his welder in, or for that matter, if your table light on the end of 3m of 0.5mm flex gets a short in the lampholder.

Read line 1 again!

I'll disagree on that Crossy.

If uncle Somchai plugs in his welder on a 16Amp circuit, I don't want to unplug everything else in the house to prevent the RCD tripping.

32Amp for 2.5mm cable is standard. The cable won't overheat.

UK standards are probably the safest in the world. IEE regs.

Not sure where ring mains got into this - but they are best left in England where they belong and no where else.

AND - the RCD is not going to trip from over-current - only ground fault. Geez.

It was Faz who mentioned rings in post #13, I also note that he has NO overcurrent devices in his rewired home, scary.

If one does not know the difference between an MCB an RCD and an RCBO one should not be giving advice here. Bonus point for ELCB.

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Crossy, on 04 Feb 2015 - 18:56, said:

NEVER, EVER, EVER put Thai outlets on a 'ring main' with a 32A breaker!!!!!!

Ring finals (the proper name) are peculiar to locations like the UK with fused plugs.

Thai plugs are unfused and rated at 16A, you will cause a fire if uncle Somchai plugs his welder in, or for that matter, if your table light on the end of 3m of 0.5mm flex gets a short in the lampholder.

Read line 1 again!

I'll disagree on that Crossy.

If uncle Somchai plugs in his welder on a 16Amp circuit, I don't want to unplug everything else in the house to prevent the RCD tripping.

32Amp for 2.5mm cable is standard. The cable won't overheat.

UK standards are probably the safest in the world. IEE regs.

Not sure where ring mains got into this - but they are best left in England where they belong and no where else.

AND - the RCD is not going to trip from over-current - only ground fault. Geez.

It was Faz who mentioned rings in post #13, I also note that he has NO overcurrent devices in his rewired home, scary.

If one does not know the difference between an MCB an RCD and an RCBO one should not be giving advice here. Bonus point for ELCB.

You left out GFI :P

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Anyway, back on-topic.

I agree with Forky's first post, if the wiring is in good order then simply replacing the fittings and adding grounds where necessary should have the desired effect.

Oh, and install a Safe-T-Cut type device if there is currently no earth-leakage protection.

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Never knew that polarity was an issue with AC appliances.

Polarity is not an issue with appliances. The problem of the lights glowing dimly after being switched off is crossed live and neutral. The switch which would normally operate on the live wire is then switching on the neutral wire with live being permanently connected to the light. There is enough leakage in the light fitting to pass current from live, through the light to earth, bypassing the switch. Don't forget that earth and neutral are bonded together at the CU.

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The wiring in the house if 2.5mm cable 2 or 3 core should be fine, plugs, switches fine, the only problem is the way its connected, the reason it burns it is a hot joint, connect it correctly and firm, you must have a safety switch RCD, 2.5 cable on 20 amp breaker, earthling -hot water, water pump, and if you have exposed metal in house. If you have an RCD may sure it is working , press the test button once a month, do not rely on the earth .

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  • 10 months later...

thanks for all your posting guys,but where do you find a good sparky?

as for somchaiw00t.gif i would rather trust mrs.meat.whistling.gif

oh well its a yr.gone by and hopefully its time to get the whole house rewired.last yr.our mind has been with our beloved sam and now that he is well again,its time for mrs.meat to dig deep into her pockets.as mentioned we will try and get some PEA guys,we do have one living 4 doors away who should know how to change it all or put us in the right direction.

better stock up with cider to help with all the stress.burp.gif

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  • 2 weeks later...

got a sparky to do the work,he has advised us to change the ballasts in the round floresant lights as some of them are buzzing a bit.to electronic ones.

if i had my way i would get rid of them all [inside]

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  • 1 month later...

sparky came yesterday to size up the job,this is for you crossy,he told us to get a RCD 60A.[sCHNEIDER] residential current device.

went to home pro no have,only circuit breaker around 3,000bht. is the rcd and cb.one of the same.

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MB are you adding to an existing Schneider or Square-D board or replacing the board with new??

If existing please post photos.

If you are replacing I would avoid Schneider, Square-D or any of the units with plug-in MCBs. Unless you know you are never going to add an over / under volt trip, a generator or an AVR to the system I would go with the ABB boxes with DIN mount devices, infinitely versatile.

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MB are you adding to an existing Schneider or Square-D board or replacing the board with new??

If existing please post photos.

If you are replacing I would avoid Schneider, Square-D or any of the units with plug-in MCBs. Unless you know you are never going to add an over / under volt trip, a generator or an AVR to the system I would go with the ABB boxes with DIN mount devices, infinitely versatile.

thanks crossy i am sorry i cant post photo's,its the existing schneider box,on the left of the box is the mains 2 on and off switches,underneath it says SQUARE D

this RCD protects the earth leakage circuit.

thanks again.

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OK, upgrading the existing Schneider box.

Assuming it looks like the one in post 7 of this thread http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/897030-a-power-cut-is-a-power-cut-is-a-power-cut/ you need to replace the main switch (with no "Test" button) with an RCBO (which has a "Test" button).

I don't have access to a Schneider catalog right now (I'm on-site and the online one doesn't seem to work on my mobile) but a PM to Morakot should net you the part number of the unit he obtained.

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OK, upgrading the existing Schneider box.

Assuming it looks like the one in post 7 of this thread http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/897030-a-power-cut-is-a-power-cut-is-a-power-cut/ you need to replace the main switch (with no "Test" button) with an RCBO (which has a "Test" button).

I don't have access to a Schneider catalog right now (I'm on-site and the online one doesn't seem to work on my mobile) but a PM to Morakot should net you the part number of the unit he obtained.

just had a look at post 7,the box looks the same but the mains switch on ours looks like a double and not a single [like post 7]

on the left it has QOvs.

C63

at the btm.it says DO NOT EXCEED RATED CURRENT

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OK, upgrading the existing Schneider box.

Assuming it looks like the one in post 7 of this thread http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/897030-a-power-cut-is-a-power-cut-is-a-power-cut/ you need to replace the main switch (with no "Test" button) with an RCBO (which has a "Test" button).

I don't have access to a Schneider catalog right now (I'm on-site and the online one doesn't seem to work on my mobile) but a PM to Morakot should net you the part number of the unit he obtained.

just had a look at post 7,the box looks the same but the mains switch on ours looks like a double and not a single [like post 7]

on the left it has QOvs.

C63

at the btm.it says DO NOT EXCEED RATED CURRENT

well this has got to be a first,just had a look at what a RCBO looks like and,the bloke at home pro was RIGHT this is what he showed us.

what about the rateing as i saw on the box 32w.

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thanks crossy,the wife just ordered it from home pro,2,590bht.quite a good price according to the sparky.

i will have tooooooooooo eat some humble pie when we go back.or take our dog for a ride and i can stay outside.

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thanks crossy,the wife just ordered it from home pro,2,590bht.quite a good price according to the sparky.

i will have tooooooooooo eat some humble pie when we go back.or take our dog for a ride and i can stay outside.

let this be a warning to others,wether its new or old.

we have had a few incidents with our electric the past 6yrs,but the last one made us realize we needed the whole house checked.a couple of months back we had a satellite dish installed and the rigger told us there was wireing in the loft that needed to be looked at[sparking].before that a terminal[if thats the word] burned out,wrong size wire,loose connections ect. so we found a good sparky but had to wait as he is always busy.

he came on saturday,to check what he could and as we wanted all the lights changed it was goner take some time.

i always thought if you have a box with all the electric points,wireing and other parts it would trip out if a fault occured,no not at all,untill he fitted a new RCD.

once he had done this and started checking SPARKS DID FLY.

first an air con cable bad loose conection.

then one of the three showers not earthed proper.

loose wire's in one of the bathroom lights.

just 3 for the time being till he comes back.

you might think what house and cheap or a quick build.

well it was the most costly out of 50 on a mooban and they had 18months to build it before we moved in.

we did complain a couple of yrs.back to the electrician employed by the co.his reply was, I HAD TO SUB THE WORK OUT AS I HAD TO FINISH OTHERS.

what else he's goner find wont surprise us at all.just glad none of us ended up at the temple.

so my message is GET IT CHECKED and take nothing for granted.

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Looks like you've found a decent sparks there MB (they do exist).

Keep his number, find out what area he serves, pass business his way smile.png

yep he came back sunday to change more lights,electric tripped out 4times,wire's put into the wrong terminal? one wire in the bathroom had come out,

and also our earth was floating what that means.all in all we have been very very LUCKY.

LETS SEE WHAT HE FINDS THIS WEEKEND. how important was having a RCD fixed.

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