as the title says ,i know sod all about the internal workings of forks the problem i have is one of the rebound adjustment screws seems to screw in a lot further than the other one ,the forks are super soft and are going in to have new harder springs and oil,the guy is gonna have a look at the rebound screws at the same time he reckons can work out expensive if its a problem with the top cap,so can anyone give a brief explanation of whats going on in there ,what the problem could possibly be and what would need replacing..

thanks

pics attached,you can clearly see how much further one screw goes than the other.

Not sure, but I'll ask someone who will know and get back to you if I get some helpful info.

My adjusters do not go in that far. I am 95% certain the damper is not serviceable. I ordered new sprngs from racetech.

I looked all over trying to find someone competent to do the job but eneded up doing it myself

This is the answer I got from the best wrench I know, with his best guess as to what's causing the issue (I showed him your pics)- of course it couldl be something else, but it's difficult to diagnose without seeing it in person:

Here's the deal, you can dick those things up pretty easy.

How many clicks did it have when new? Somewhere around 14~17 clicks usually. Take the tops off the damping rods. The tops are the pieces with the 17mm or what ever hex in the picture. They have a jamb nut holding/locking them, this is where the problem is. turn the jamb nuts down a few turns to get them out of the way.Make sure the little push rods are in there and can be pushed up and down, that they are not bent or stuck.

Back the clickers out all they way, turn them in 14~17 clicks, what ever it was new and leave them there. With the clickers turned in what ever amount it should be, 14~17 clicks, turn them onto the damper rods until they seat lightly, this is compressing the push rod (which adjusts the compression) all the way until it stops. Then turn the jamb nut up and tighten it. Then, your adjusters will be within a click or two of each other.

Very easy to do, it's just hard to explain it to someone.

Sounds like a Thai mechanic has had a go at it. Expect to find bits missing,Bent and torn up inside when you open them up. I'd take the to caps off and have a look there. Just s back off the top triple clamps first

Sounds like a Thai mechanic has had a go at it. Expect to find bits missing,Bent and torn up inside when you open them up. I'd take the to caps off and have a look there. Just s back off the top triple clamps first

He needs to loosen the nut while the triple is thight butnot remove it. Then support the bike with a proper stand. Then he can remove the forks to work on them. The front fender is a bitch to remove without damage. If you don't loosen the nuts you'll be reinstalling them to loosen

Not sure but the bottom triple clamp will hold the forks while listening the end caps. Some bikes will hold the threads tight with the top triple clamp tight. You do heed to support the front end though when removing them.

thanks for the replies .....first of the bike is in the uk so no chance a thai mechanic has been any where near it.....555

there is also no clicking when you turn either of the screws,it all sounds like a bit of a fiddly job and aint really got the tools to be doing it,getting ohlins front springs 9.5 put in tomorrow so we shall see how bad it all is then.

these 03 model cbr do not have the upside down forks ,however the 04/05 model does and they are near enough a straight swap would like to take this route as it also allows better brake callipers to be fitted but its pretty expensive to try and source complete front end from on 04/05 model .

will update when they have been looked at and maybe i will learn something about the internals of front suspension....

they're not suppose to make any sound. 03-04 have the same forks at least in the usa. 05 they went to upside-down forks. You would need almost a complete front assembly to make the change.

sorry yep my mistake, 05 is the start of upside down forks yep you need more or less the whole front end upper and lower triple clamp etc.etc pretty easy swap though once you have everything.

some say its worth doing others say its not worth it,is an added bonus if you want better callipers though,I'm just gonna get the original forks set up properly for my weight and possibly go for a brembo master cylinder if I'm not happy with the brakes on track.

p.s. thats good to know they are not supposed to make any sound ...

If you're a track hobbyists then the stock calipers and master are fine. Upgrade to ebc HH, high temp fluid and HEL brake lines and the bike will stop great.

will add the ebc hh pads and high temp fluid to my shopping list,already have the braided lines......thanks