Info on Pai to Mae Hongson back to Chiang Mai loop

[watgate]

I am planning on doing this trip with my g/f sometime around the middle of November. My g/f says that there is suppose to be a spectacular display of wild flowers dotting the Mae Hongson countryside around the middle of November or thereabouts. We are going to be catching a van from the Arcade Bus Terminal and will be staying in Pai 1- 2 nights. Then we will be taking a van or bus from Pai to Mae Hongson and spending another 1-2 nights before departing for our trip back to Chiang Mai.Any folks who have done this scenic loop and might have some recommendations would be most appreciated. If someone knows of any hotels or B&B or other lodging in Pai and/or Mae Hongson which is clean and comfortable and moderately priced I would be most appreciative for any suggestions or names of any places. Also,if anyone knows about the wild flower displays and where the best viewing areas to see the flowers. Also, any recommendations for places to eat in Pai and/or Mae Hongson. I take it, it would be wise to make reservations since November is the busy season. I know this is a popular trip so any info or feedback would be appreciated.

Edited September 21, 2015 by watgate

[dutchisaan]

Did you hear about google?

Amazing what you can find!

[colinneil]

Go to the salween river restaurant in Mae hong son.

Food is very good, ask for Nang (owner) she speaks very good English, and can tell you the best and most moderatey priced places to stay..

Salween river is on the side of the lake in mhs easy to find. Tell Nang Colin recommed you, and she will assist you all she can.

[Rimkok]

I recommend that you hire a car and go at your own pace.

As for places to stay check out Agoda, plenty of reviews on there.

[chingmai331]

We hired a car, cheap at North Wheels. Hotels, motels, guest houses, tent space, all in abundance in those two towns. Pai failed to impress. MHS slightly better. Road to Pai not good, beyond Pai some improvement. From MHS to CM, around Doi Inthonon, was very nice.

[Seligne2]

Wikivoyage: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Mae_Hong_Son_Loop

[MESmith]

The attraction of the MHS loop is the drive, not the destinations. Great roads if you enjoy mountainous, twisty roads, great views & scenery. Car, motorbike or bicycle, take your pick. Waste of time if doing it on public transport.

[cornishcarlos]

I can't imagine anything worse than doing the MHS loop in a mini van !! 80% of passengers will be vomiting within an hour.

Hire a car or even a bike. PCX 150 will get 2 of you round the loop in relative comfort and cheaper than a van

[Paul944]

My Thai gf insisted on going by public transport, a big mistake to agree. Driving your self, it is much more fun. Those van drivers drive like crazy and after the first corner people already start vomiting.

[trainman34014]

Worst part of the loop is the area South of Mae Hon Son where the road is a switchback for many miles, drives me nuts. Make sure you stop at Mork Fa Waterfall on the way to Pai, Doi Keaw Lom Viewpoint overlooking Mae Hon Son and Obluang National Park on the way back.

Pai has one of the best cake shops in Thailand; can't remember the name but it's owned by a Muslim family and on one of the main streets.

[Chicog]

Did you hear about google?

Amazing what you can find!

Fantastic community spirit there.

Well done.

[STUDMEYER]

Rent a big bike - 250 minimum, a a 650 Versys would be pretty comfy. It sucks getting passed, and IMHO is a bit dangerous being constantly overtaken by other crazy drivers on that road.

While you're doing the loop, I suggest stopping at Thom Lod Cave. You float through it on a raft in total darkness. The water is swarming with fish. You get off the boat and hike around in the pitch black inside the cave. If you're there near sunset you get to see a few million bats fly out of the cave. Pretty impressive, although thus far its been my only cave experience in thailand (fish cave not withstanding)

The hot springs in Pai are kind of neat in the winter time (in a dirty, overcrowded hot water in a creek sort of way) especially after you've been freezing your butt of riding. Also if you like to boil eggs, you're in egg boiling heaven!

There's this fish cave place somewhere up there too. We stopped there for about an hour. Tonnes of carp you can see and feed in crystal clear water coming out of a mountain side. The fish swim into and disappear into the mountain (like a cave... for fish)

The loop is all about the ride and views. Spent most of my time rubber necking at some gorgeous country side and enjoying the hair pin corners while dodging idiots riding in the middle of the road wearing headphones.

Rgs

SM

[cloudhopper]

Just wanted to add that just about the entire road between Maetaeng and Pai is under reconstruction now. They appear to be widening the road to 3 or 4 lanes wherever practicable so whenever it's completed should allow for a faster and safer trip for that leg. Until it's finished the dust will make a motorcycle ride pretty miserable.

[robertmueller]

Look also at Bua Thong Sunflower Festival in Khun Yuam. Google it!

Main period (depending on weather) is normally from second half of November to first week of December.

[alant]

I would also suggest cart or bike over public transport, to be honest the minivans scare me even when they pass never mind riding in them. Pai, cheap and cheerful Pai Walking St guesthouse, quality Medio do Pai. http://www.tripline.net/trip/Ride%3B_Hippies_Smell.-274657437357101082E6DD40C02D1A73

Mae Hong Son have a look at the Mountain Inn http://www.tripline.net/trip/Motorbiking%3B_The_Mae_Hong_Son_Loop_-_anti_clockwise.-76540670764010109F7CFB17D46A3939

Flowers will be all over but do try Bua Thong.

[amexpat]

"Rent a big bike - 250 minimum, a a 650 Versys would be pretty comfy. It sucks getting passed, and IMHO is a bit dangerous being constantly overtaken by other crazy drivers on that road."

I wondered when this would pop up. A 150 is plenty for two people but two 100 - 150 cc is a better choice if you both can ride. Big bikes are awkward on those tight switchbacks.

And if you want to drive faster than all those other crazy drivers on that road, well, up to you.

[jacko45k]

I have done this trip a couple of times, once using public transport, and another with my own vehicle.

It is a great trip and I enjoyed it, but beware there are some steep and bendy roads.

Consider a stop between Pai and Mae Hong Son, I stayed in Phang Mapha, where there was a wonderful guest house overlooking the river with little bungalows.

Great coffee at breakfast. We also took trips to caves in the area too.

Lots of guest houses in Pai although I found the place a bit back-packer touristy.

Mae Hong Son has some hotels. Get some TAT literature as you travel.

My only unpleasant experience was the bus from Mae Hong Son, which broke down and had me scared as hell. Stuck in the middle of nowhere overnight!

Got to Tak some 24 hours late!

[villagefarang]

It is not a loop if you go out and back. You need to continue on to Khun Yuam and then take the road through Mae Chaem up the back side of Doi Inthanon before continuing back to Chiang Mai.

[hkt83100]

If you go counter-clockwise, you will be entitled to get a colourful certificate at the T.A.T. office, confirming that you did all these turns (hopefully) without an accident. It is a nice souvenir to show off back home. I did that tour in the early nineties and I don't want to have missed the trip. Fabulous!

[2008bangkok]

Me and my mate did the trip from CM to Pai Xmas last year. Hired a couple of 250's from Tonie's big bikes in CM then off through the mountains.
Great time and as others say the views are fantastic so if you can drive id recommend it.
We stayed in some really nice huts right in the thick of Pai about 800 baht per night not sure if the name but great location although that time of year it can get a bit cold.
We also took a day trip to some caves where you go rafting, good but you need to be fit as the full course is 10km, not very good for two 40 something overweight wanna be teenagers lol.
Anyway enjoy your trip im sure you however you get there you will have a good time.

[Fairynuff]

Did you hear about google?

Amazing what you can find!

If you have nothing constructive to say better to say nothing

[Mangkhut]

I have been this loop 6 times, one time by bus and 5 times by motorbike. Guess which one I prefere and which one I recommend? ;-)

You have already got many good advices here.

1. Do it by own vehicle - and own speed and stop where you want.

2. Accomodation in Pai - there are an abundance of hotels and gh there. Hard to recommend any. I stayed in a place just through the main center when coming from the CM side, on the right hand side, near the river. Cannot remember the name of the place. Costed 6-700 baht 3 years ago and for that price it was well worth it.

3. Accomodation MHS - Piya guesthose down by the lake. Nice bungalows for the price of 7-800 baht. Have pool too. Ngam Ta hotel - just on the corner from the main rd and the rd down to the lake. Rooms 8-1200 baht including breakfast. Ok value for money. Can be a little noisy because of the nightclub/disco straight across the road.

Definetively continue to Doi Inthanon and/or Mae Sariang. Nice and scenic roads and scenery.

Places to check out - many already mentioned:

- Tham Lod cave (between Pai and MHS) huge cave with stream in so that you need a boat to take you through parts of the cave. Stone age settlements inside the cave. Stream full og big fish.

- Several wiew points along the road. Stop for coffee and a chat with the locals.

- Ban Rak Thai - some 20-30 kms before MHS take right and head up into the mountains for 20-30 kms to the BRT village. A chinese settlement around a lake. Taste delicious tea and dried fruit. Look at the chinese styled houses, and take a dive into history. Why are those chinese there?nThe road and ride/drive up there are spectacular. Its up to 11-1200 masl. Thers also a relatively nice waterfall half way up.

- Dok Bua Deng field. (Sunflower field) located on the road between Khun Yuam - Mae Chaem. A little detour from the main road but quite a sight in the blooming season.

- Temple and cafe on the hilltop overlooking MHS. A nice temple in a spectacular setting on a hill right above MHS. One can walk there in from town centre in 20 minutes or so dependong of your physical shape or drive all the way to the top. Its also a cafe behind the temple with a spectacular view. You can actually look down on the airstrip in MHS which is very cool when planes comes in for landing.

Take your time and dont rush it. Its one of the best parts of Thailand IMHO.

[cornishcarlos]

Ban Rak Thai... Stunning

[gary94578]

I had a wonderful trip last year with a friend, We went on 125ccHonda click and they were fine.

A must visit is the Tam Wua Forest Monestary, visitors are welcome to stay, and it was a great experience, http://www.althaiman.ru/thai%20htm/Province/wattamwua.htm, The setting is absolutely beautiful and very friendly. Plan on staying a day or two to appreciate everything.

The full beauty is not captured in even these photos.

We arrive on a rainy afternoon seeking shelter from the storm. They provide all white clothing and we slept in a very large hall, polished hardwood floors and a thin mat for a bed. My friend insisted that he could never be comfortable and in the morning said he had the best nights sleep. Early vegetarian breakfast then meditation with some instruction for beginners. No problem sitting in a chair, if that is what your bones will allow.

Lunch, the last meal of the day and then more meditation.

We left after lunch, enough meditation for me and made a contribution to the jar of what you can afford.

In Mae Hong Song, the Salween River Resturant, by the lake, is great, http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g297928-d2093418-Reviews-Salween_River_Restaurant-Mae_Hong_Son_Mae_Hong_Son_Province.html

Do not miss the Green Tea Salad!

At the highest point on the road between Pia and Mae Hong Song, there is a large viewpoint. Across the road, not too obvious is a small road that goes a hill for fantastic views in the opposite direction.

See a cave .

Soppong may be a little fashion center. Men were wearing very colorful Thai style pants.

A short beautiful trek starts over the suspension bridge in the rear of The Little Eden Guesthouse. The bridge is open, I believe or you can ask at the bar. A walk of 1 or 2 hours goes thru jungle, bamboo and large boulders.

Note: Only now, that I have made my post, would a google search be useful.

Edited September 22, 2015 by gary94578

[LNV]

Just wanted to add that just about the entire road between Maetaeng and Pai is under reconstruction now. They appear to be widening the road to 3 or 4 lanes wherever practicable so whenever it's completed should allow for a faster and safer trip for that leg. Until it's finished the dust will make a motorcycle ride pretty miserable.

This is some good advice. Can anyone else confirm this as we are planning on going in the next month or so?

[MESmith]

Just wanted to add that just about the entire road between Maetaeng and Pai is under reconstruction now. They appear to be widening the road to 3 or 4 lanes wherever practicable so whenever it's completed should allow for a faster and safer trip for that leg. Until it's finished the dust will make a motorcycle ride pretty miserable.

This is some good advice. Can anyone else confirm this as we are planning on going in the next month or so?

Cloudhopper's word is good enough for me.

[GotSeoul]

I recommend that you hire a car and go at your own pace.

......

I concur with hiring a car and going at your own pace. Better if you can get a convertable somehow. It's more expensive than a van or bus for sure, but you will have a much better experience.

EDIT: I should have read the whole thread before I responded. A lot of good advice from folks here. Definitely go at your own pace in your own vehicle (2 or 4 wheel :-) You will see some beautiful sites and a nice drive

Edited September 22, 2015 by GotSeoul

[louse1953]

I can't imagine anything worse than doing the MHS loop in a mini van !! 80% of passengers will be vomiting within an hour.

Hire a car or even a bike. PCX 150 will get 2 of you round the loop in relative comfort and cheaper than a van

Bike is the way to go,but bit of experience is needed.

[louse1953]

Worst part of the loop is the area South of Mae Hon Son where the road is a switchback for many miles, drives me nuts. Make sure you stop at Mork Fa Waterfall on the way to Pai, Doi Keaw Lom Viewpoint overlooking Mae Hon Son and Obluang National Park on the way back.

Pai has one of the best cake shops in Thailand; can't remember the name but it's owned by a Muslim family and on one of the main streets.

Pai is a tourist ghetto to be avoided.1 night if you must,then you will enjoy the other towns more so.

[louse1953]

"Rent a big bike - 250 minimum, a a 650 Versys would be pretty comfy. It sucks getting passed, and IMHO is a bit dangerous being constantly overtaken by other crazy drivers on that road."

I wondered when this would pop up. A 150 is plenty for two people but two 100 - 150 cc is a better choice if you both can ride. Big bikes are awkward on those tight switchbacks.

And if you want to drive faster than all those other crazy drivers on that road, well, up to you.

Although it is a good bike ride,if you go fast,what's the point,you miss all the wonderful scenery.