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Help my electric meter has gone bananas!


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Posted

Hi everyone,

For years I have been using about 1350kwh on a yearly basis for which I have bills to prove. Now I have moved to a new appartment and recently the first bill has arrived and it was outrages!

I still have all the same stuff so I knew it was wrong. So I bought myself one of those outlet electrical meters to see what was going on. I tested the outlet meter with lightbulbs to see if it was accurate and it is.

So tonight I unplugged all of my outlets and twisted out all of my lightbulbs except for my 20watt fridge and connected it with the outlet electrical meter. Next I wrote down the score on the official meter in the closet.

This morning the official meter tells me I have used 2000w while really I only used 100w with the fridge for which I have my outlet meter to back me up. I mean this is insane right?!

It's a 10 year old meter rated 10/30A. Is this even the right meter for me? 10/30A means 1200w/3600w while my electrical usage is min 20w to max 1150w.

Is the meter simply broken? Is it meant for stronger households and therefore not able to read my small usage correctly and should I apply for a 5/15A for example? Anything else that could be wrong?

The meter seems to register a steady daily 7kwh every day regardless of what I plugin?! (Well of course I never tried to exceed 7kwh since I only actually use about 3,5kwh a day).

Thanks

Posted

As you have not provided any information must ask if you talking about an apartment in Thailand? Am sure I have never seen a 20w fridge here.

Posted

As you have not provided any information must ask if you talking about an apartment in Thailand? Am sure I have never seen a 20w fridge here.

It's a 50w fridge which goes on and off during the day and has a 1600kwh usage on yearly basis. That's nearly 20w on average an hour.

Posted

Assuming overnight means about 10 hours, and 2000w really means 2kWh, that means your fridge draws about 200 watts on average.

That's a lot more believable than 20 watts average.

Take a photo of the "energy label" on your fridge - that should help settle it.

BTW: your meter capacity math seems to be based on 120V - Thailand mains is 220V.

Posted

As you have not provided any information must ask if you talking about an apartment in Thailand? Am sure I have never seen a 20w fridge here.

It's a 50w fridge which goes on and off during the day and has a 1600kwh usage on yearly basis. That's nearly 20w on average an hour.

1600 kWh per year = 4.38kWh per day. You're saying your meter registered 2kWh overnight. It's right.

It also means your fridge draws an average of 180 watts, not 20 watts.

I can supply the math for you if it's still not making sense wink.png

Posted

As you have not provided any information must ask if you talking about an apartment in Thailand? Am sure I have never seen a 20w fridge here.

It's a 50w fridge which goes on and off during the day and has a 1600kwh usage on yearly basis. That's nearly 20w on average an hour.

1600 kWh per year = 4.38kWh per day. You're saying your meter registered 2kWh overnight. It's right.

It also means your fridge draws an average of 180 watts, not 20w watts.

I can supply the math for you if it's still not making sense wink.png

Ahum I'm sorry it's 160kwh a year. (160000/365)/24=18.25w an hour.

Which I verified over about 5 hours during the night, I didn't want my food to go bad for a longer period. The energie meter on the outlet displayed about 100w over 5 hours. What I'm telling is correct but my apologies for the confusion.

PS: the compressor of the fridge turns ON and OFF, ON and OFF. During the time it's ON the energie meter displayes 50w so it's a 50w fridge but it's not continually using energie, just when the compressor jumps in, the average usage is 18.25w.

Posted

Now what I'm mostly concerned about is the 10/30A meter. 10A is the nominal value whilst 30A is the maximum value and I have been led to believe it is not able to regsiter correctly when I'm only using 0.4Amps with my fridge. One of the solutions would be that the meter simply doesn't register less than 2.4Amps an hour since it's not meant for my low usage, or the damn thing is broken.

So even when it turns out to be broken or has to be recalibrated shouldn't I apply for a smaller meter like a 5/15A or even a 5/10A?

Posted

Normal electric meters here in Thailand are 5 or 15 amp for small home usage. Again ask if you are actually talking about Thailand - and if so where?

Posted

Normal electric meters here in Thailand are 5 or 15 amp for small home usage. Again ask if you are actually talking about Thailand - and if so where?

No I'm home in Holland now. The fact I even noticed is because I got my bill over 2014. Supposedly I had used 900kwh but I had been in Thailand nearly the entire time, I only actually spend 22 days in Holland in the appartment so knew it couldn't be right.

Posted

1. First step should be to disconnect your apartment from electric supply - there should be a breaker to do so - and then watch the meter and be sure it is not turning.

2. If you confirm over few minutes it is not turning - restore power to apartment with nothing plugged in - confirm still not moving.

3. If still not moving you can then use your testing to check one thing at a time.

900kwh is not very much (but for 22 days probably a lot in apartment if fridge not plugged in all year) - I use that much every two weeks here in Bangkok (but have 6 b/r home). Is there any electric heating or cooking being done?

Posted

As you have not provided any information must ask if you talking about an apartment in Thailand? Am sure I have never seen a 20w fridge here.

It's a 50w fridge which goes on and off during the day and has a 1600kwh usage on yearly basis. That's nearly 20w on average an hour.

1600 kWh per year = 4.38kWh per day. You're saying your meter registered 2kWh overnight. It's right.

It also means your fridge draws an average of 180 watts, not 20w watts.

I can supply the math for you if it's still not making sense wink.png

Ahum I'm sorry it's 160kwh a year. (160000/365)/24=18.25w an hour.

Which I verified over about 5 hours during the night, I didn't want my food to go bad for a longer period. The energie meter on the outlet displayed about 100w over 5 hours. What I'm telling is correct but my apologies for the confusion.

PS: the compressor of the fridge turns ON and OFF, ON and OFF. During the time it's ON the energie meter displayes 50w so it's a 50w fridge but it's not continually using energie, just when the compressor jumps in, the average usage is 18.25w.

I understand how fridges work, thanks :)

The only way it's going to be 160 kWh per year is if it's a tiny little bar fridge, i.e. in the 3-5 cu ft range. And If it's one of those, the first thing to check is the temperature setting - they chew huge amounts of power as you turn up the dial...

Posted

Oops I used 120v for my Ampere calculation but it's 220v. So 10/30A means 2200w/6600w which is even worse or not?

As other have noted, standard meter sizes in TH are:

5/15

15/45

30/100

So not sure how you got a 10/30, but I guess anything is possible ;)

In any case, yes, the first number is the nominal/calibration amps, the 2nd number the max. load amps. Even if you're only pulling a small amount of power, the accuracy is only going to be affected by very small margins. They don't go nuts at low loads - or at least, they shouldn't.

Perhaps call your MEA/PEA to come and check it?

Posted

I understand how fridges work, thanks smile.png

The only way it's going to be 160 kWh per year is if it's a tiny little bar fridge, i.e. in the 3-5 cu ft range. And If it's one of those, the first thing to check is the temperature setting - they chew huge amounts of power as you turn up the dial...

It's a tiny little fridge, 160kwh/year is what the sticker sais and the energie meter confirms.

Posted

Oops I used 120v for my Ampere calculation but it's 220v. So 10/30A means 2200w/6600w which is even worse or not?

As other have noted, standard meter sizes in TH are:

5/15

15/45

30/100

So not sure how you got a 10/30, but I guess anything is possible wink.png

In any case, yes, the first number is the nominal/calibration amps, the 2nd number the max. load amps. Even if you're only pulling a small amount of power, the accuracy is only going to be affected by very small margins. They don't go nuts at low loads - or at least, they shouldn't.

Perhaps call your MEA/PEA to come and check it?

It's about my meter in Holland. I have called them and being approached highly cynical which gives me nightmares. I'm not stupid, I know exactly what I plugin and what I use.

Posted

It's about my meter in Holland. I have called them and being approached highly cynical which gives me nightmares. I'm not stupid, I know exactly what I plugin and what I use.

Why would you be talking about your meter in Holland on a Thailand Forum?

Try one or a few of the many Dutch Forum and you might get more success.

Anyway if you where only 22 days of the year in Holland, why even leave the fridge on. Throw any food away or give it to neighbors/friends/family.

Maybe you have people watering your plants and while you where in Thailand they arranged a few parties in your Dutch home or rented it out without you knowing.

Pay the 900kwh bill and next time ... no plants, fridge or spare keys for anyone.

Posted

I thought about aircon running all night or the street light supplied by your appartment.

But all this happens in Holland... no aircon... but street light...

smile.png

Posted

Oops I used 120v for my Ampere calculation but it's 220v. So 10/30A means 2200w/6600w which is even worse or not?

There might be some other explanation...

Turn of all your electric appliances and see if the meter still moves...

It does not make a difference if the meter is 5/15 or 15/45, it still registers the consumption correct.

So step 1, unplug everything and go look on the meter.

Step 2, take something with a known watt consumption , as a coffee cooker, plug that i and boil water for 1 hour, the water cooker draws a certain wattage should be equal at the meter as that amount during 1 hour.

If with step one, the meter is not running, still does not mean that one of the neighbors is on your meter as well or even the hall way outside lightning...

Also can be that you have a fase to ground device, draining your amps...

Start with step 1... for example at midnight, during 1 hour, or even to make more sure, make it whole night... ( keep your fridge closed...)

Posted

Oops I used 120v for my Ampere calculation but it's 220v. So 10/30A means 2200w/6600w which is even worse or not?

As other have noted, standard meter sizes in TH are:

5/15

15/45

30/100

So not sure how you got a 10/30, but I guess anything is possible wink.png

In any case, yes, the first number is the nominal/calibration amps, the 2nd number the max. load amps. Even if you're only pulling a small amount of power, the accuracy is only going to be affected by very small margins. They don't go nuts at low loads - or at least, they shouldn't.

Perhaps call your MEA/PEA to come and check it?

It's about my meter in Holland. I have called them and being approached highly cynical which gives me nightmares. I'm not stupid, I know exactly what I plugin and what I use.

My wife used to say " i am not stupid, i am a teacher..."

And no, you don't know... seen your questions and explanations... and talking about Holland ? have a water boiler for your hot shower ? or any electric heater for your house heating ?

Posted

I'm giving up guys, throwing the towel into the ring. It's even going when everything is shut down. I'm waiting for the mechanic next week.

I'll try disconnecting all the breakers/groups tonight to see if it will still run like ti does when I just unplug all the gear.

Posted

Previous poster brought up a good point - do you have a water heater? If so and you did not remove power to it there would be a lot of wasted electric being used to keep that hot during most of your year there.

Posted

I'm giving up guys, throwing the towel into the ring. It's even going when everything is shut down. I'm waiting for the mechanic next week.

I'll try disconnecting all the breakers/groups tonight to see if it will still run like ti does when I just unplug all the gear.

if its running everything shuts down ... switch of the mains for starters... then test every single fuse.. but if it runs even with the mains of... call your landlord...

Posted

Oops I used 120v for my Ampere calculation but it's 220v. So 10/30A means 2200w/6600w which is even worse or not?

Nikko, please dont put the Europeans down by such stupid mistakes... are you dumb like a tulip?

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