Upcoming trip to find the best place to live in Chiang Mai...

[Alk]

I will spend two weeks in Chiang Mai in January. I have not been to the city in 27 years, and will be looking to see what part of the city I will be most comfortable in. I'm am recently retired, and will be traveling with my Filipina fiance. I will want to divide my time between being close to the old city for one week, and then outside the walls for the second week seeing if I would be more comfortable living in a location like that.

I would love suggestions for a hotel in each location (1500-2000B per night), and if anyone has any advice as to what they would consider an ideal place to live for someone such as myself, I would be appreciative.

I've not decided whether I want a house or condo. I will rent for at least the first year.

I'm still trying to decide whether to get a car, motorcycle or just use public transportation. I've rented cars several times in Southern parts of Thailand over the years, but I'm a little bit concerned about potential driving mishaps since Thai's drive on the "wrong side of the road" to us Americans.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Edited November 18, 2015 by Alk

[masuk]

Definitely a good idea to come and inspect first. Be prepared for some major changes! Thae Pae gate to Maya - allow 30 or 40 minutes after 4pm.

I think you'll find that almost all of SE Asia drives on the correct side of the road - i.e. the left! (apart from the former French colonies).

Motor bike??? Good luck!

[Alk]

Definitely a good idea to come and inspect first. Be prepared for some major changes! Thae Pae gate to Maya - allow 30 or 40 minutes after 4pm.

I think you'll find that almost all of SE Asia drives on the correct side of the road - i.e. the left! (apart from the former French colonies).

Motor bike??? Good luck!

I'm in the Philippines now, which means I'm currently driving on the wrong side of the road.

Last time I drove extensively on the left side of the road was a 10 day car tour of England. At the end of my trip, and two significant accidents later, I managed to coax what was left of my car to the Heathrow rental dealershp...at 5AM before they opened, so I would not incur their anger (the car was fully insured).

Thanks for your suggestions.

[jobin]

IMO, you should abandon the idea of living in the countryside. Not becoz of its merits/demerits but the wife will be bored out of her skull in one week. When out of town, one is far too dependent on car to find ANYTHING. Oh, maybe a noodle shop down the road but if i know the Filipina ladies they NEED heavy duty socializing, esp on Sunday.

[Alk]

I'm not planning on going too far out of the city (less than 5km), but I know some of the newer areas are of course outside of the old city walls... I would like to investigate one or more of those while I am there.

[Cheesekraft]

if you plan to live here long term, I would recommend seeing if you can stand the burning season before making long-term arrangements. Chiang Mai is only getting more crowded, less friendly, more expensive, and more polluted with each passing day. The smoking season is by far the worst part of the year for many of us, others don't mind the cancer particles and it doens't bother them symptomatically (but even if we don't feel something, that dooesn't mean it isn't staying in our lungs forever).

[JaseTheBass]

I think you'll be shocked at what a dump it's become. Take a detour and visit Udon Thani as it's closer to how you probably remember Chiang Mai (except the locals are less dim-witted in Udon).

[ThaiTony2]

I first visited CM in 1985 and then visited again in 2009. As you can imagine it changed tremendously. Now I live here, purchased back in 2009. CM is constantly changing with expected visitors to be 2 million within the next couple of months. Many Chinese visitors and increased traffic.

From my observation and opinion I would not want to rent or own in the old city area even though I do like to visit there periodically for night life activity including eating out.

I really enjoy living near the 700 Year Statium area which is now beginning to get popular with new condo's. It's still quiet enough to enjoy the peaceful area and surrounding mountains, close to Doi Suthep area and Neiman Rd. and the new Maya shopping Mall.

The trip to the old city and Night Bazzar area only takes me 15-20 minutes with my motorbike anytime during the day or night. Taking my vehicle can take 35-40 minutes when traffic is heavy.

When so many tourist are in and around the old city area, yes it's a feeling of excitement but for me when I drive back to my home, it's a relief getting away from the congestion of people and traffic. Once you're here for awhile you will learn the back roads and short-cuts to reduce your travel times.

So if you like living near crowded areas then you shouldn't have a problem but if you like to clear you head and not have to deal with all the confusion then I would consider the area that I've already mentioned.

I also suggest renting a motorbike if you know how to ride. If you do end-up living around my area you will most likely want to consider getting your own transportation, either a vehicle and/ or a motorbike. Relying on public transportation such as a taxi or Red truck can be burdensome due to their availability. What I mean to say is that living off of Canal Road area around the 700 Year Statium you will need to call every time you need to be picked-up by taxi.

Besides, this area is really nice driving with very little traffic when compared to downtown or the old city areas.

Good luck to you and if you have any specific questions you can always private message me.

Best wishes for an enjoyably stay in Chiang Mai.

[alant]

Hope you find the information you need. I live near the promenada mall. When I moved here I worried we were to far out. Now we are certainly not.

[Singharh]

Do yourself a favor and spend a few days in Loei....I lived in a Chiang Mai for three years 2008/11 and it's not what it used to be. Loei,is a stunning province and not as polluted and crowded as CNX. Also cheaper there now.

[strabel23]

IMO, you should abandon the idea of living in the countryside. Not becoz of its merits/demerits but the wife will be bored out of her skull in one week. When out of town, one is far too dependent on car to find ANYTHING. Oh, maybe a noodle shop down the road but if i know the Filipina ladies they NEED heavy duty socializing, esp on Sunday.

Depends on what you want. For some living in the heart of the tourist area can become a little annoying at times with noise pollution, congestion, parking and obnoxious tourists being the major complaints. Sure Philipinos like to have their social gatherings, and so that will have to be a consideration, but for me if I had a Filipina for a wife I would prefer to keep her away from the Philipino community. Why, because once she establishes connections with the rest of the Philipino community it will be harder for her to tear herself away from her group to mingle with the general expat community and having her friends around all the time can become a little nerve racking for a guy that is looking for a little peace and quiet in retirement.

Having said that living only just 10 kilometres out of the downtown core you will find secure gated communities with cheap rent and sporting amenities within from swimming pools and gyms to tennis and badminton courts. Sure you will need transportation but you will probably need it anyway unless you want to be lugging your groceries home all the time and sweating in the hot sun.

Some come here to live as cheap as they can. Others come here because they can afford more luxuries than back home. Just depends on your preferred life style I guess. Just my 2 cents.

[1FinickyOne]

If you remember that the steering wheel always stays in the center of the road - it is easier. That said, if living in CM, I would not think a car is necessary. 5km from the Thapae Gate is certainly going to still be city. If you are talking about hte NE section of the old city with all the backpacker style restaurants and guesthouses, you might find it fun to be near, but that you have outgrown it in 27 years - htough you might enjoy wandering around and having an occasional meal there..

If you go out Huay Kaew Road, there are some condos there and it still keeps you in reach of the tourist areas - plenty of Songthaews [pickup taxis] rnning their routes so transport will be easy and cheap and no car needed.

[flyDelight]

I'd never want to live in a house in Thailand, the burglary rate is extremely high it cost only a minute to break into any house. Better go for a apartment with proper security only then you can leave with a good feeling. There are lot's of brand new apartments in the $250 range and most of them are furnished, have a flat television, fridge and aircon etc.

A difference with 27 year ago is the city now is completely dominated by cars, the whole middle class drives financed 3 liter diesel Status Utility Vehicles. The driving skills are poor and ignorant but not as rude as China or India actually quite friendly.

[MrBrad]

If you have time and nothing better to do, you might find it worthwhile to check out some of the neighborhoods and streets on Google maps. Just about every highway, road, street, and back alley can be seen on the Streetview feature by moving the little gold-colored man from the lower right corner to the very street you want to look at. It can be time-consuming, but also fun and informative.

https://www.google.co.th/maps/@18.7897641,98.9818163,3668m/data=!3m1!1e3?hl=en

[soc]

Definitely a good idea to come and inspect first. Be prepared for some major changes! Thae Pae gate to Maya - allow 30 or 40 minutes after 4pm.

I think you'll find that almost all of SE Asia drives on the correct side of the road - i.e. the left! (apart from the former French colonies).

Motor bike??? Good luck!

I'm in the Philippines now, which means I'm currently driving on the wrong side of the road.

Last time I drove extensively on the left side of the road was a 10 day car tour of England. At the end of my trip, and two significant accidents later, I managed to coax what was left of my car to the Heathrow rental dealershp...at 5AM before they opened, so I would not incur their anger (the car was fully insured).

Thanks for your suggestions.

Just a bit of trivia, Alk.

America drove on the left side of the road until 1905.

Don't know why you changed.

[bazza40]

I think you'll be shocked at what a dump it's become. Take a detour and visit Udon Thani as it's closer to how you probably remember Chiang Mai (except the locals are less dim-witted in Udon).

Are they compensating for the falangs there?

Edited November 18, 2015 by bazza40

[bazza40]

Definitely a good idea to come and inspect first. Be prepared for some major changes! Thae Pae gate to Maya - allow 30 or 40 minutes after 4pm.

I think you'll find that almost all of SE Asia drives on the correct side of the road - i.e. the left! (apart from the former French colonies).

Motor bike??? Good luck!

I'm in the Philippines now, which means I'm currently driving on the wrong side of the road.

Last time I drove extensively on the left side of the road was a 10 day car tour of England. At the end of my trip, and two significant accidents later, I managed to coax what was left of my car to the Heathrow rental dealershp...at 5AM before they opened, so I would not incur their anger (the car was fully insured).

Thanks for your suggestions.

Just a bit of trivia, Alk.

America drove on the left side of the road until 1905.

Don't know why you changed.

Driving on the left side of the road originated from the Romans. As most charioteers were right-handed, they needed their sword-hand free to hack at chariots coming the other way.

While I don't know why America went to the right-hand side, I could speculate it was because they realised it didn't matter which side of the road you were on when you substitute guns for swords.

[SiSePuede419]

"I have not been to the city in 27 years, and will be looking to see what part of the city I will be most comfortable in."

You would be more comfortable in Santa Barbara, California or Vail, Colorado, but you're going to need a substantially bigger budget. But you will get better quality everything (except Thai food and tropical fruits).

If you love Thai food and tropical fruit more than living a quality life with relatively pollution-free air to breathe and safe roads to walk or drive on, then Chiang Mai is the place to find similar "geniuses"...

Edited November 18, 2015 by SiSePuede419

[SiSePuede419]

Definitely a good idea to come and inspect first. Be prepared for some major changes! Thae Pae gate to Maya - allow 30 or 40 minutes after 4pm.

I think you'll find that almost all of SE Asia drives on the correct side of the road - i.e. the left! (apart from the former French colonies).

Motor bike??? Good luck!

I'm in the Philippines now, which means I'm currently driving on the wrong side of the road.

Last time I drove extensively on the left side of the road was a 10 day car tour of England. At the end of my trip, and two significant accidents later, I managed to coax what was left of my car to the Heathrow rental dealershp...at 5AM before they opened, so I would not incur their anger (the car was fully insured).

Thanks for your suggestions.

Just a bit of trivia, Alk.

America drove on the left side of the road until 1905.

Don't know why you changed.

The answer is your trivia is nonsense. Americans never drove on the left side:

https://www.fhwa.dot.gov/infrastructure/right.cfm

BTW, driving on the left in Thailand is not a problem, it's the idiots who barely have any driving experience who are afraid to drive anywhere but the Middle of the road (or on the wrong side)...

[dotpoom]

I make regular trips to Chiang Mai, had been considering moving there for a long time, but now every time I go the traffic just seems to be worse and worse, enough to make me change my mind about living there. It was difficult to simply just cross a road while walking....let alone driving.

[Alk]

if you plan to live here long term, I would recommend seeing if you can stand the burning season before making long-term arrangements. Chiang Mai is only getting more crowded, less friendly, more expensive, and more polluted with each passing day. The smoking season is by far the worst part of the year for many of us, others don't mind the cancer particles and it doens't bother them symptomatically (but even if we don't feel something, that dooesn't mean it isn't staying in our lungs forever).

Thank for your message CK,

I moved up my trip to Chiang Mai so that I will leave there by the end of the first week in February, specifically so I will miss that. If I find what I am looking for; I'll return at the beginning of the rainy season. Although there is always a possibility I will decide to live full-time in Chiang Mai, paying slight more for a shorter rental period (~9 months), will give me the option of living 3 months in a place like Phuket as well.

[Alk]

I first visited CM in 1985 and then visited again in 2009. As you can imagine it changed tremendously. Now I live here, purchased back in 2009. CM is constantly changing with expected visitors to be 2 million within the next couple of months. Many Chinese visitors and increased traffic.

From my observation and opinion I would not want to rent or own in the old city area even though I do like to visit there periodically for night life activity including eating out.

I really enjoy living near the 700 Year Statium area which is now beginning to get popular with new condo's. It's still quiet enough to enjoy the peaceful area and surrounding mountains, close to Doi Suthep area and Neiman Rd. and the new Maya shopping Mall.

The trip to the old city and Night Bazzar area only takes me 15-20 minutes with my motorbike anytime during the day or night. Taking my vehicle can take 35-40 minutes when traffic is heavy.

When so many tourist are in and around the old city area, yes it's a feeling of excitement but for me when I drive back to my home, it's a relief getting away from the congestion of people and traffic. Once you're here for awhile you will learn the back roads and short-cuts to reduce your travel times.

So if you like living near crowded areas then you shouldn't have a problem but if you like to clear you head and not have to deal with all the confusion then I would consider the area that I've already mentioned.

I also suggest renting a motorbike if you know how to ride. If you do end-up living around my area you will most likely want to consider getting your own transportation, either a vehicle and/ or a motorbike. Relying on public transportation such as a taxi or Red truck can be burdensome due to their availability. What I mean to say is that living off of Canal Road area around the 700 Year Statium you will need to call every time you need to be picked-up by taxi.

Besides, this area is really nice driving with very little traffic when compared to downtown or the old city areas.

Good luck to you and if you have any specific questions you can always private message me.

Best wishes for an enjoyably stay in Chiang Mai.

Thanks Tony, I'll take you up on your offer and PM you. 1985...I just realized that was when my last trip was...so make it 30 years since I have been here last. I'm giving more and more thought to getting my own transportation if i decide to live there.

[Alk]

If you have time and nothing better to do, you might find it worthwhile to check out some of the neighborhoods and streets on Google maps. Just about every highway, road, street, and back alley can be seen on the Streetview feature by moving the little gold-colored man from the lower right corner to the very street you want to look at. It can be time-consuming, but also fun and informative.

https://www.google.co.th/maps/@18.7897641,98.9818163,3668m/data=!3m1!1e3?hl=en

Good advice. in fact I'm getting tons of good advice from almost everyone (except the inevitable flamer or two). My big issue is that after not being in the city since 1985, I have no idea where the Seven Hundred Year Old Stadium, Maya Mall, Loei, Huay Kaew Road, Prominada Mal...etc. I would be a good idea to better acquaint myself with the lay of the land there.

[Alk]

"I have not been to the city in 27 years, and will be looking to see what part of the city I will be most comfortable in."

You would be more comfortable in Santa Barbara, California or Vail, Colorado, but you're going to need a substantially bigger budget. But you will get better quality everything (except Thai food and tropical fruits).

If you love Thai food and tropical fruit more than living a quality life with relatively pollution-free air to breathe and safe roads to walk or drive on, then Chiang Mai is the place to find similar "geniuses"...

I went to college in Santa Barbara, and lived and worked there for many years afterward. I outgrew it after a while. I've been skiing in Vail, but would never want to make that my home. It's way up interstate 80 and is a long way from anywhere.

I'm still puzzled why people make replies like this.

BTW....where do you live?

Edited November 19, 2015 by Alk

[ByblosYuNaiSoi]

If you're sensitive to noise at night (loud music, amplified speaking etc), avoid the Thapae Gate and Nimmanhemin areas.

Also, it depends where you are in a building. I moved 2 km from a music site, but on the 7th floor facing this live music area (I didn't know it was there when I moved it) and the racket comes in whether windows are open or closed.

My experience of Chiang Mai is much more noisy than Bangkok - so much outdoor loud music at night here. Also karaoke bars all over the place.

It's lovely otherwise, but noise is a problem for me.

[MaeJoMTB]

I'd never want to live in a house in Thailand, the burglary rate is extremely high it cost only a minute to break into any house. Better go for a apartment with proper security only then you can leave with a good feeling. There are lot's of brand new apartments in the $250 range and most of them are furnished, have a flat television, fridge and aircon etc.

A difference with 27 year ago is the city now is completely dominated by cars, the whole middle class drives financed 3 liter diesel Status Utility Vehicles. The driving skills are poor and ignorant but not as rude as China or India actually quite friendly.

Been living in CM for 7 years, 6 of those years in houses, on and off moobans.

Never been broken into, don't know anyone else that's had a break in.

@OP

Two weeks is nowhere near long enough to find a place.

Rent a condo for two months, decide what you like doing, and where you like doing it.

Then cruise around suitable areas looking for rent/sale signs in Thai on gates.

Edited November 19, 2015 by MaeJoMTB

[JaseTheBass]

If you're sensitive to noise at night (loud music, amplified speaking etc), avoid the Thapae Gate and Nimmanhemin areas.

Also, it depends where you are in a building. I moved 2 km from a music site, but on the 7th floor facing this live music area (I didn't know it was there when I moved it) and the racket comes in whether windows are open or closed.

My experience of Chiang Mai is much more noisy than Bangkok - so much outdoor loud music at night here. Also karaoke bars all over the place.

It's lovely otherwise, but noise is a problem for me.

All good points, but it's not quite as cut & dried as that. I live off Sirimangkalajarn which is generally considered as part of Nimman and it's one of the quietest places I've lived in since I've been in Thailand. But move into Nimman proper and noise can very much be an issue.

[WinnieTheKhwai]

Definitely a good idea to come and inspect first. Be prepared for some major changes! Thae Pae gate to Maya - allow 30 or 40 minutes after 4pm.

Well let's see.

He was here last about 30 years ago.

30 years ago there was no Maya, and very little reason to go to that area unless you had a guest staying at the Rincome or had stuff to do at the university.

30 years ago there wasn't even a Central KSK or Airport Plaza.

30 years ago you would have walked, biked or Songthaewed over to the Big Market to buy stuff.

Today you can still walk over to the Big Market and buy stuff.

Going to a fancy mall is an option that just wasn't there 30 years ago. Heck, there wasn't even a Tesco or Big C..

Now we do have that option, along with interesting Japanese noodles. Or cuisiney Thai fusion food. Decent Western food. Espresso and a macaroon. At a price, of course. Plus it can take time to get out there, with Maya being by far the worst from downtown. (From downtown though you can be at either Central Airport or Promenada in about 15 minutes.)

But.. going back 30 years, and on the fairly safe assumption that what you saw back than appealed enough to come back now: it's all still there. Not just the Big Market is the same as ever, you can get great affordable Thai food up and down every road and soi in the old town. (More so than 30 years ago actually.)

So yeah.. join a traffic jam to Maya and eat a bowl of Interesting Japanese Noodles for 165 Baht, or.. live and eat downtown. The below is today, lunch time. Very little traffic. Great chicken soup / chicken noodles. Huge bowl, 45 Baht.

It's good having options. This makes Chiang Mai objectively better now than it ever was; best of all worlds.

Edited November 19, 2015 by WinnieTheKhwai

[masuk]

arroi mak?

[WinnieTheKhwai]

Yes, very. And for a fairly new shop with English and Chinese menus I was expecting it to cost a lot more, also given the two big pieces of chicken. It's on Phrapokklao Road, on the left side when going towards Chiang Mai gate, coming from the intersection with Ratchamankha Road.