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Dirty fuel injectors? How to clean


jobin

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Have 1997 Opel with multi-port injectors and lots of miles. Have now used 3 tanks of benzine in hopes of improving slight hesitation when accelerating. Maybe a good effect, hard to tell.

But just today, out of the blue, the engine died. Restarted but engine continued to die when foot off gas pedal. Idling very poorly and dying when shifting gears due to foot off gas.

Could be dirty injectors, or bad fuel pump or ??? Have never cleaned injectors so do not know the procedure. Can common car shops, like BQik, do this job?

Any ideas on how to isolate problem? thnx.

BTW, URGENT.

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A quick way to check your injectors is to use a multimeter setting it on the 200k ohms

position. (You can buy a digital multimeter for about 300bt or maybe borrow one).

With the engine off, disconnect each injector by it's terminal plug.

Check the resistance of each injector by putting the 2 multimeter wires across the two terminals on the injectors.

The readings of all the injectors should be within 0.5ohms of each other.

EG:

If your reading is 16ohms on the majority of the injectors and one has a reading of say

12ohms or even 14ohms, then that injector would need replacing.

To clean them, you need to remove them from the engine, and squirt carb/brake cleaner

through the fuel inlet hole while at the same time energising them with a makeshift two wires

connected to the two terminals on the injector and the other two to a battery.

(Note some injectors work on 12v supply while others can work on as little as 1, 3, 6, or 9v

battery.

The injector will spray out the cleaner fluid from the nozzle end every time they are energised

just as they would spray a pattern of fuel in the combustion chamber in the engine,

making sure you spray the cleaning fluid and energise the injector at the same time.

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Fuel choice makes a difference too....Was using PTT ? The one with the red dot red white blue sign (the one that always has the 7/11 or Jiffy + Amazon coffee) because they are full service handy and plentiful.....I found when using that brand a lot more diesel exhaust at less tip in //// Switched up to Cal Tex and smoke was much less - power increased and gained 35-60k between fill ups.....

I now stick to Ctex only if possible....But just in case I carry

an FI cleaner that Ctex sells for when I can't find one on trips....

Not sure if deposits are the OP's problem but fuel does make a difference.....

Almost sounds like a possible vacuum leak - wouldn't trust BQ for anything let alone a diagnosis and repair....

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There's a product line BG that Toyota used in the states....

Some of their induction/injection cleaners actually rendered repairs where only replacement of components had worked prior....

Worked well enough that incorporating in some intervals prevented problems...They worked closely with the Chevron engineering teams (top dogs) during R/D.....

Not sure if stocked in Thailand but Amazon has some.....

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Doesn't sound like injectors..Injectors over time get a varnish build up which is very hard to remove, Ultrasound apparatus was designed to remove the stuff. They do have to be removed from the ride and put in the machine.

They are connected up to a pump and you can see the spray pattern through a glass window. After the ultrasound cleaning they are connected up again to see the improvement. Quite interesting to watch the procedure and the end result. Had it done on a high mileage V6 Volvo..

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  • 2 years later...

As a first step which is always overlooked, and  I have solved so many problems with is simply installing a new fuel filter, removing the ignition cap and cleaning the contacts and and installing new plugs. Sometimes with older cars replacing brittle plug wires can make a huge difference. What I am getting at is starting with cheap and easy and moving forward from there.

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