Fresh Air Needed - Re-routing our honeymoon away from Chiang Mai

[fnk]

Hi all,

My wife and I are planning our honeymoon in Thailand departing Feb 22nd from Canada.

I got the impression from speaking with previous traveller’s that the Chiang Mai region was a "must-see" for cultural reasons. Most people did not hesitate to recommend spending several days there.

We then decided on the following high-level schedule :

Fly in

• Bangkok - 2 nights
• Chaing Mai - 5 nights (Feb 25th to Feb 29th)
• Kanchanaburi - 3 nights (already booked)
• South (Ko Phi Pi 3 nights + Eastern Island TBC) - 7 nights
• Bangkok - 1 night

Fly out

We were happy with this until we heard about the burning/smoky season in Northern Thailand. My wife is suffering from severe asthma so we do not take this lightly... It also concerns me to see that "dangerous" pollution level "PM10" in canada is 50+ and Thailand seems to have adopted a scale that suits them better (120+ considered dangerous). Anyways, we decided that we would play it by ear and book the "Chaing Mai" part just before departing, if the aqmthai.com reports PM10 hight than 100 upon departure (on the 21st), we go with "plan B", and "plan B" involves avoiding smoky areas. That's our "agreed upon" cut-off. (that's how marriage works folks).

Since, we did already book something in Kanchanaburi (from night 8th), "plan B" is most likely going to involve spending nights 3 to 7 somewhere in central/northeastern Thailand. Pattaya/The Eastern Seaboard does not interest me. (it's a honeymoon :-p), and I am not sure what could replace Chiang Mai from a cultural point of view - open to suggestions.

What do you guys think about the smoky season? Am I freaking out for no reason?

What would you recommend? I was pretty much set on renting a car in DMK on my way back from Chiang Mai and drive to Kanchanaburi (optinal stop in Ayutthaya). I though maybe spending an additional day in Bangkok and then, renting the car earlier and touring around Khao Yai, Ayutthaya, Petchaburi(out of the way?) and then Kanchanaburi would be a good idea. Or, should we drive further west to the national parks Tong Pha Phum and then come back east to Kanchanaburi?

We were thinking of going to an elephant sanctuary (pattara) in Chaing Mai and doing the cooking class? Where else are those activities fun to do (and ethical for the elephant part)?

What about the car rental? Is it suicidal? I feel like renting a car would allow a way more easy going atmosphere since we would be hoping for city to city often (yes, I know about driving on the left side and about crazy drivers, and yes, it does scare me a bit).

Anyways, your thoughts would be more than welcome.

Cheers!

Me

[craigt3365]

A lot depends on the weather. But that time of year is known to be tough. Pretty much all over Asia, and for sure all over Issan and NE Thailand. Even Phuket got hit hard not long ago from fires in Indonesia. I went to Bangkok early last week and you could barely see 2km due to the smoke. That is from Pattaya. Burning is everywhere. Sadly.

For not much more than the cost of a rental car, you can get a car with a driver. A great way to go. No worries about directions, etc. Something to think about.

As for elephants, if it involves shows or riding, then they are abused. Please avoid at all costs.

[fnk]

Thanks for your answer!

So...

1-I am not freaking out. Got mixed feelings about this one :-(

2-Even Bangkok can be troublesome

3-North / Northeastern / Issan is risky end of February

4-Consider the driver option

About Phuket, that was circonstantial wasn't it?

I still not sure what do do with these 5 nights... Any suggestions?

Thanks!

[grumpyoldman]

• Bangkok - 2 nights-add another night here,Bangkok is a vibrant place lots to see and do, rent your car last day.
• Chaing Mai - 5 nights (Feb 25th to Feb 29th)-Sure,forget this,drive the car to Ayutthaya and spend a couple days looking at the temples.
• Kanchanaburi - 3 nights (already booked)-Great call, if doing Erawan Falls get to the trail at 7:30AM,hike straight to the top pool enjoy serenity for about 2 hours before the tour bus masses arrive,hike down when screaming people invade.
• South (Ko Phi Pi 3 nights + Eastern Island TBC) - 7 nights-Do not stay in Phi Phi Don Village, complete dump,outer areas Phi-Phi o.k., from Phi-Phi can ferry to Koh Kradan or Koh Muk,white sand heaven
• Bangkok - 1 night-Maybe extend 1 night,Bangkok is awesome, super food,nightclubs,shop for goodies for the friends back home, maybe consider scheduling the cooking class on the way in and do it here on the return

Have a great time!!

[leftorright]

Alternatively, try to bring your booking for Kanchanaburi forward and spend more time in the south (where the air is indeed cleaner this time of year). You could then for instance add a couple of nights in Khao Sok National Park to the mix, staying in a floating raft house on the lake. Think hard about how you like your islands, especially in terms of tourist-density. Koh Kradan and Koh Muk, as recommended by grumpyoldman, offer white-sand beaches and decent snorkeling (KK) without the crowds that Phi Phi gets. West coast (Andaman side), this time of year should be better - weather-wise - than the east coast.

While the roads here are certainly dangerous, I'd say driving yourself is doable, especially if you're an experienced/confident driver. At least destiny will be in your own hands. Bring a good road map and invest in internet access so that you can benefit from online/real time navigation services for the finishing touches (if your rental car doesn't have some).

Finally I would like to second what craigt3365 said about elephants, and extend it to tigers.

Enjoy!

[fnk]

Thanks guys, that's useful.

What do you mean by the weather being not as good on the eastern coast? Are we talking of the temperature / the wind / the rain?

As for the island, we thought Koh Pha Ngan, and we believed going there when it's not the FMP would make it peaceful. It this a bad assumption?

:-)

[craigt3365]

Khao Sok is amazing. One of my best experiences here. Rustic. But great. We took a kayak out at sunset, with rum and coke mixers. Incredible.

I'm no fan of Koh Pha Ngan. Even outside the FMP, too many low end backpackers. IMHO.

Kanchanburi is great. You can easily burned 3 days there. Bangkok is a great city. Good for at least 2 full days.

What do you want to see? Beaches, mountains, ruins? Angkor Wat is incredible. Easy flight from Bangkok.

[grumpyoldman]

Thanks guys, that's useful.

What do you mean by the weather being not as good on the eastern coast? Are we talking of the temperature / the wind / the rain?

As for the island, we thought Koh Pha Ngan, and we believed going there when it's not the FMP would make it peaceful. It this a bad assumption?

:-)

Correct, this time of year Samui/Koh Phangan side not as nice as Andaman Coast side due to the monsoon winds.

Khao Sok is a good suggestion, also Khao Lak for some really nice beaches and inexpensive accommodations.

[fnk]

We actually thought of going to Khao Sok and stay in one of these floating villas. I'm just not sure how this could be doable since the Kanchanaburi booking is fixed and non refundable (...and we are also staying in a floating hotel there!).

What about Khao Yai national park and/or Thong Pha Phum national park (staying in a treehouse)?

Thanks for the recommandation regarding the eastern coast. We'll take it off the itinerary and most probably head somewhere like Ko Lanta. We'll be somewhere in Phi Phi just before so this is also simplifying the commute. Ko Kradan seems interesting, especially for the snorkeling and serenity but this might be a bit to secluded for our tastes.

Btw, I just check AQI this morning for northern Thailand, and its not bad. I'm wondering if the new regulation is making a difference. I'm glad we did not pick China as a destination (air quality looks awful there!).

Cheers!

[craigt3365]

Here's a pretty good site on the islands here:

http://tezzasthaiinfo.blogspot.com/

Agreed that Khao Sok might not be as fun after your stay on the river in Kan. I've not spent much time in Khao Yai, but NPs here can sometimes be a bit disappointing. Thailand is a heavily populated place. Even in NPs, you'll find crops being grown and resorts illegally built all over. Coming from Canada, you might be disappointed. I'd maybe stick to the cultural things and islands.

Phi Phi is massively crowded. You can get away from the craziness by going to the other side of the island. The day trip to the place filmed in The Beach movie is massively packed with tourists by day. Now, with hordes of Chinese on packaged tours.