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Northern Thailand and Laos on a CRF250L

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I met a couple from the UK, Russ and Emma, they were very nice and we ended up spending the evening together in the guesthouse, chatting, eating and drinking. They didn’t know where they were going to next so we discussed where I had been and their options. It was nice to have a good light hearted conversation.

15629565864_589d439416_b.jpgIMG_1597 by Wayne 66, on Flickr
Russ and Emma

Elbow is the size of a golf ball, glad to be resting up, gloves and body armour are still wet through, can't wait to put them on tomorrow!

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Day 30 Luang Namtha to Muang Sing

Gloves still drenched, glad I have another pair with me, nowt worse than soggy gloves, boots still wet also, Seal Skinz it is then, although the body armour has dried out.

15632223343_f7039ffc9f_b.jpgLuang Namtha to Muang Sing by Wayne 66, on Flickr
  • Author

Set off for Muang Sing via the NamDi (Dee) Waterfall N21.01496 E101.44214 and the That Phum Phuk Stupas N20.97172 E101.38046

Visited the Stupa first which was on top of a hill, looked for the road that went up to the top but couldn't find it so I ended up climbing the stairs to the top, not the best idea in Motocross boots. There was the old stupa which I think was partially destroyed when it had a bomb dropped on it, and the new stupa in the usual gold colouring.

15632090693_9df8855dfe_b.jpgIMG_1599 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16064572660_b354050aef_b.jpgIMG_1601 by Wayne 66, on Flickr
View from top of stairs

16065804799_e89c49a1cf_b.jpgIMG_1602 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16066124087_70c88f71d1_b.jpgIMG_1608 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16066094337_e7749899ff_b.jpgIMG_1604 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

  • Author

Next up was Nam Di, I was a bit disappointed in it after the Kuang Si Waterfall, the water looked clear coming down but then was a bit murky as it started to flow again and there was a long rusting pipe which you can see in the photos, ain't got a clue what it was for, cost was 10,000 kip and 2,000 kip for the motorbike to be parked

16065755019_b6e3365557_b.jpgIMG_1612 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16066042537_404ee2fd60_b.jpgIMG_1613 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16225966966_326262e6ae_b.jpgIMG_1615 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16251865575_5b69380b68_b.jpgIMG_1618 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16251852085_62b119183c_b.jpgIMG_1621 by Wayne 66, on Flickr
Doing the washing in the river just after the waterfall

  • Author

It was good to get back out on the bike after resting my arm and sitting about for nearly 36 hours due to bad weather. The road (17A) was quite good all the way to Muang Sing and the scenery was up to its usual standard, loads to look at.

I stopped for my usual in the middle of no where breakfast in Ban Done Xay
food was good, noodles with pork and veggies.
Although the sun was not out for most of the journey it was a lot warmer than it had been over the previous two days.

16249981011_ce7421c7f0_b.jpgIMG_1627 by Wayne 66, on Flickr
Ban Done Xay

15631920573_35b7ebf9fd_b.jpgIMG_1629 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

15629490074_a78f156eb8_b.jpgIMG_1610 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

15631969323_a6559688b7_b.jpgIMG_1622 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

  • Author

Just before I got to MS I took a bit of a detour to Ban Koum which is a distillery village, When I got there I had a ride round the village and as normal all the villagers were staring at me, I could not see any distilleries but thought I could smell it in the previous village I passed through, however I did meet a group of guys who where sat drinking some home brew at 1030 in the morning as I was riding passed the one with the home-brew beckoned me to stop, as I stopped he finished of his drink and poured me one, it was strong, thankfully I had only eaten an hour ago, so I got my smokes out and passed them round, much appreciated it was too, then we had more home-brew whilst taking about the bike, my GPS and the Go-pro, and they even posed for a photo

15631837723_814bb8626c_b.jpgIMG_1639 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

15629296934_abef3ce3db_b.jpgIMG_1641 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

Got to MS at about 1130hrs and had a coffee after the mediatory ride round, whilst having a brew I look for some accommodation, After riding around again I opted for the Anousone Guesthous at coords N21.19140 E101.15479. Wifi which is quite good, hot water which is luke warm but bearable and the bike is parked out front.

16065841937_78334a5c1f_b.jpgIMG_1644 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16065835817_76f445d4ce_b.jpgIMG_1646 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

15629262764_7e97892c6b_b.jpgIMG_1647 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16064288260_49eea7d618_b.jpgIMG_1648 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

There was not a lot to choose from in the town IMHO, it is a bit of a one horse town and nothing like the other places I have stopped. It is predominantly Chinese in the town with it being close to the border and most of the businesses are Chinese, including the Guesthouse I am in.
Moving on again tomorrow to Houayxai.

  • Author

Day 31 Muang Sing to Houayxai

Set off quite early from Muang Sing, it was about 0730hrs as I knew it was going to be a long day. But I didn’t know how long or how hard!

16261013411_960ffe371d_b.jpgDay 31 Muang Sing to Houayxai by Wayne 66, on Flickr
  • Author

The road,17B, was Tarmac for about 18km then it went on to an unpaved road, it was good going with loads to see on route. Went through loads of Banana Plantations and then I finally turned left on to the 2483 and got my first sight of the Mekong River at 0920hrs,

16261918242_5d46168507_b.jpgIMG_1650 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16076877767_4526ca05a3_b.jpgIMG_1652 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16076614429_624a81e036_b.jpgIMG_1653 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16076603859_c37c3c9e0a_b.jpgIMG_1657 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

  • Author

Then it all went very hard for me indeed, the road, which I say in the loosest of terms went to a single track between point 1 N20.88651 E100.65087 and point 2 N20.81732 E100.52865. It was nightmare, I was literally having to fight my way through young bamboo plants, jungle, fallen trees and logs on the track, so much for it being a road. The mud on the track/road was very slippery and you could not use any speed at all, I had a bit of a slow motion moment where the front wheel went from underneath me, great, picked the bike up only to find the gear selector had snapped off, not happy, but on the bright side I could still change gear, thankfully. The rest of the horrible track i did with the broken gear selector.

On the single track I had to negotiate two landslides, the first was a small gap which was on the edge of a 100/150 foot drop straight to the Mekong, the only thing breaking my fall would be the trees on the way down, and the only track which had been used was a Scooter track about a foot from the edge. Wet slippery mud, paddled may way across that, and got across ok, then came the next one about 2k’s down the track, this was an uphill climb of about 4 feet, I stopped and had a look at it, thankfully there was a bit of a flat top on the landslide so at least I could compose myself before going down the other side, another bad time, I was beginning to think why the hell am I doing this on my own, one wrong slip/move and i am in to the Mekong after and long drop. But thankfully I made it ok. Would I do that stretch again on my own…No. But saying that it was better than sitting on a boring tarmac road. After about 10k’s plus i came across and excavator which was clearing the track and making it wider, great, about time, haha. This made it a little easier going as the track was a little bit wider but it made it harder on the sloppier muddy sections due to him churning it up. Didn’t take any photos or video as that was the last thing on my mind. Eventually the track became a lot better and more free flowing. I had passed a couple of villages on route and was asking about getting the gear selector fixed, one of them being Ban Xiengdao N20.81468 E100.52652 which had a really nice Stupa and Temple

16260801111_903a6b2d74_b.jpgIMG_1681 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16075250810_b4cd69925b_b.jpgIMG_1682 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

In all the villages I stopped at I kept hearing Meung Meung, and didn’t have a clue except it was a village. I eventually got to the village and got it welded back together at a bike place, N20.73103 E100.46026, great, at least now I could change gear properly.

16076473459_a653224443_b.jpgIMG_1688 by Wayne 66, on Flickr
Getting it sorted

  • Author

Once I left Meung ( as it is on the map) I followed the 2203 which was a nice unpaved road with a number of bad sloppy mud sections all the way to the 3, once on the 3 it was a good tarmac road to Houayxai.

16261760512_a73e891390_b.jpgIMG_1690 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16260766921_7aff0e9d8b_b.jpgIMG_1691 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16236665876_b243ddd1f9_b.jpgIMG_1692 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16260755981_4d72b933f5_b.jpgIMG_1695 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16076436909_b00b3ec993_b.jpgIMG_1699 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

15640128024_03673316bd_b.jpgIMG_1704 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

15640121574_ef7ec76609_b.jpgIMG_1707 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16260716461_38eb1a9a67_b.jpgIMG_1708 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16074998978_87170dd92d_b.jpgIMG_1710 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

  • Author

Once I got to Houayxai it was time to stop and have some food as I was in need of some sustenance. Whilst eating I got talking to some Lao men and one of them spoke a bit of English, so I asked him where there was a good place to stay with good wifi, he pointed me in the direction of the Friendship Guesthouse 2, good wifi, 43 photos uploaded to Flicker in about 45mins, and the hot water is ok, bike parked at front under the CCTV, coords N20.27176 E100.41343, 125,000 Kip per night

16075154770_daf0f513fd_b.jpgIMG_1713 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16075150060_107b1fec32_b.jpgIMG_1714 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16261677932_6451c97c20_b.jpgIMG_1716 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16074974368_b1d1cd457d_b.jpgIMG_1715 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

It was a really good day with lots of challenging parts if not scary at times.

  • Author

A couple of videos

16269270821_5d84bec621_c.jpgBan Chom Ong by Wayne 66, on Flickr

15649599474_159fb8362c_c.jpgRoute 2483 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

Edited by Caps

  • Author

Day 32 Local in Houayxai

Stayed around Houayxai today and went for a walk in the morning.
In the afternoon I met up with Kurt who was riding from Norway to Australia, we sat, drank coffee and had a good chat. We have arranged to go out riding tomorrow, going to the Laos side of the Golden Triangle.
After he had left I went and visited Fort Carnot, it was good to go and visit although it was getting bit overgrown as you can see by the photos. There was quite a commanding view over the Mekong River and the town. It was a Legion Fort and was built in 1900 following the acquisition of Laos into French Indochina in 1893.
On the way up to the Fort there is a bit of a Laos Military Barracks thing going on including the Bokeo Army Hospital and as you walked down the road the doors to the patients rooms were open and you could see people on drips and laid in their beds.

15650626363_413783c306_b.jpgIMG_1746 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16084456489_dde1cf869e_b.jpgIMG_1721 by Wayne 66, on Flickr
Outside the Fort

16269685452_3d7dbddf8b_b.jpgIMG_1722 by Wayne 66, on Flickr
Main Entrance Tower

16083206860_c3465e5e25_b.jpgIMG_1725 by Wayne 66, on Flickr
  • Author

Day 33 Riding local around Houayxai

Up quite early as normal, was feeling really hungry so went and had some breakfast whilst waiting for Kurt to arrive, which was going to be at about 0900. I had just finished my Hot Mocha when he got to where I was staying, we were in no rush so he had a brew too before setting off.
The plan was to have a steady ride out and try and find some interesting things I had researched in the local area and discussed with him.

16279154535_9d5cbf814b_b.jpgDay 33 Local Riding near Houayxai by Wayne 66, on Flickr

Edited by Caps

  • Author

So off we headed, first stop the Laos side of the Golden Triangle, I thought it would be good to have a look over the Mekong River at somewhere I was stood not many weeks ago looking at where I am stood today ermm.gif. It was The Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone, coords N20.35484 E100.09054. We stopped outside the hotel/casino in the area and one of the guys outside was not very happy and was telling us both to move on….we did…once we had taken some photos. Next up in the Zone was the Golden Triangle International Border Zone, where we had a look in the arrival and departure areas, duty free got some money from us also, cheap booze, great…. Then it was time for some food. Once we had eaten we decide to leave the Zone and start heading back towards Houayxai and look for some of the other places. However we ended up seeing some Tigers so naturally we had to stop and take a look, they were massive, also had some young Tigers there, then we saw lots of other animals in a bit of a Zoo, there was Bears, Peacocks, Monkeys and some Deer looking type of animal. It was a nice surprise. On the way out we also checked out the Ampi-theater on Done Xao, coords N20.32689 E100.09773.

16093154937_251b93bc2c_b.jpgIMG_1748 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16091842570_f871f00c24_b.jpgIMG_1750 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16277416521_5dff62a2c7_b.jpgIMG_1751 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

  • Author

16093066219_78f31dcd39_b.jpgIMG_1752 by Wayne 66, on Flickr
Looking at where I was a few weeks ago in Thailand

16093044389_2dfeab51a9_b.jpgIMG_1761 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

15656745164_52755338ed_b.jpgIMG_1764 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16091789950_78f1d35758_b.jpgIMG_1765 by Wayne 66, on Flickr
Not bad for a gallon of Malt

  • Author

On the way back we were looking at trying to find the Souvannakhomkham Stone Budda area, so with a bit of gesticulating from me and quite good Thai/Lao from Kurt we eventually found one of the Budda’s. Only the one mind as they are situated in a massive Banana Plantation which is a maze of tracks and even the one we found we would have ridden past if I had not had one of the locals sat on the back of my bike showing us the way. Souvannakhomkham, one of the Stone Budda’s coords N20.24970 E100.16522. The junction we took to the Budda is at coords N20.30186 E100.16099

16093230227_db840485a1_b.jpgIMG_1809 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16253154286_d97fed68dd_b.jpgIMG_1812 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

  • Author

Next up was to try and find the sculpture of a Lao princess, daughter of the Lane Xang King Chao Anouvong, who is believed to have died at a certain point in the river and the King then did the shrine for her. You have to go down some step to get to it and it is nearly right on the edge of the Mekong. There is also a great view of the river and some seats to sit on. coords N20.38180 E100.35274.

15659184283_1e8fc6a082_b.jpgIMG_1824 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

15659177083_e79a2af214_b.jpgIMG_1825 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16279062045_a09d19c9fe_b.jpgIMG_1819 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

Edited by Caps

  • Author

Back to my accommodation and have a drink then it was 30km in the opposite direction to have evening meal with a Laos family and Kurt’s Thai friend. What a great meal we had and I was made most welcome, then it was a ride back to Houayxai in the dark, that was fun, scooters, lorries and motorised carts with no lights on at all, all driving down the road. Thankfully no dogs, cows or kids etc running about in the road.

16091504268_b4a206f240_b.jpgIMG_1829 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

15659165803_5c2606bd15_b.jpgIMG_1830 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

15659161213_3865b87611_b.jpgIMG_1831 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

Had a great day and it was nice to have a bit of company and a good ride out with someone

  • Author

Day 34 Houayxai to Chiang Khong

Set off back for Thailand after a good hearty fried noodles with pork for breakfast at a little food place across from where I was staying.
Then it was off for the short journey across the Fourth Friendship Bridge and in to Chiang Khong.

16258300976_8fd253600b_b.jpgHouayxai to Chiang Khong by Wayne 66, on Flickr
20102960252_df45d6765e_b.jpgDay 34 Houayxai to Chiang Khong by Wayne 66, on Flickr

15664361543_36a68f92ac_b.jpgIMG_1832 by Wayne 66, on Flickr
Last Photo in Laos

Edited by Caps

  • Author

It was not far to the Bridge from where I was staying, maybe 12 km’s or so. When I got there I went to the Main Part of the Building and found the window for Check Out. The guy behind the window spoke really good English and he told me to get back on my bike and go to the lane for cars.

Once in that lane there was a queue of of about 6 people wanting to cross the border in their cars. As I got to the window the guy on the otherside of the glass didn’t seem to want to deal with me and he called another bloke over. This guy took my passport and paperwork (the Customs paperwork and Thailand acceptance sheet). He kept looking at it and then he put it down and just walked out of the hut. I thought this is going to be along process. I was quite wrong, after making a phone call he came back in and processed my paperwork and then asked me for 500 Bht for the escort to cross the bridge. I asked him if he had a receipt in case I was asked for it again, the answer was no. So I paid up. He then gave me everything back and said to me that I must go to the Customs window which was about 25 meters further on, on the left. He walked and I rode down to the window, at this point I had to hand in my Customs paperwork, no extra charge, just a stamp and he kept it then said I could go but had to follow this civilian car across the Bridge…..sorted
I manage to sneak bit of video of most of the area and the crossing of the bridge to the Thai side.
Once we got to the Thai side the guy in the escort vehicle point for me to go into the private car land and he drove back towards Laos.
I parked up and went to the window in the hut to my front and handed in my paperwork and passport. I was asked for the vehicle paperwork and told him I don’t have it as it is a rental bike and thats all I had.
Whilst I was filling in the arrivals paperwork one of the other guys went out and checked the paperwork with the bike registration number. He came back satisfied, I was then stamped into the country until the 13 Feb 15, not bad that, thought you only got 15 days, not that I need it all!
From that window I rode down to the Customs window which is about 25 meters behind the Arrivals booth. He took my Customs paperwork which I was given as I left Thailand, I signed it, and that was that, back into Thailand and on my way to Chiang Khong and all in less than an hour. Well chuffed.
I had to pay another 200 Bht at some point but I cant remember where, think it was the Thai side at the arrivals window

15665006913_a644a300c4_c.jpgCrossing the 4th Friendship Bridge by Wayne 66, on Flickr
Video of crossing the Bridge

Edited by Caps

  • Author

Found a place to stay in Chiang Khong, the Baan Fai Guest House, which is next door to the Nam Khong Riverside where I stayed last time I was here, Hot water, good wifi, nice clean room, bike parked on there grounds at the back, out of the way, 800 Bht, coords N20.26704 E100.40595

16283400712_7df3eb24ac_b.jpgIMG_1833 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16098099999_636c722b3a_b.jpgIMG_1853 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16098097779_8c57ccb214_b.jpgIMG_1854 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

16258304676_8f664fa1eb_b.jpgIMG_1855 by Wayne 66, on Flickr

  • Author

Day 35 The Penultimate Day, Chang Khong to Phayao

The road from CK to Phayao was initially long and a bit boring (1020) and very damp as it had just finished raining,but then I turned off and went on a few of the back roads which turned out to be about 20km shorter than if I had stayed on the main drags. Once I had left the 1020 I ended up going on the 1292, 4005, 1126 and the 1202 straight in to Phayao. On the 1202 I stopped off at one of the reservoirs for a bit of a chill

16105404429_84a850be81_b.jpgDay 35 Chang Khong to Phayao by Wayne 66, on Flickr

19922919000_c0dda49880_b.jpgDay 35 The Penultimate Day, Chang Khong to Phayao by Wayne 66, on Flickr

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