Driving A Motorbike In Bangkok

[alohatiger]

I know driving is dangerous in Bangkok, especially on a motorcycle. Before the warnings come in, I need to tell you I am an athlete and plan to use the motorbike part-time, during the evenings (I know, drunk drivers) when there's less traffic. I really need to get to know Bangkok much better, and a car (rental or otherwise) seems too big to get around, harder to park, and an otherwise bigger investment. I may consider a car rental, but I want to explore the motorbike option first.

I have GPS, so getting lost is not a problem. Just find a "safe haven" to pull over to, and see where I am. That's pretty easy. If I do get lost, I won't be lost for long.

Now: Bangkok's road quirks: I need to know about the one-ways, dead-ends, round-abouts, etc., stuff the new driver wouldn't know. For example: if you get on 'so and so' highway, it's an express to the airport and you cannot turn around until you reach the end! Avoid unless you're going there. 'End example.'

I've ridden with motorcycle taxis often and they seem to know all the ins and outs. Shortcuts too.

As for now, I plan on only driving the same paths as the motocycle drivers take (a quick and easy way to learn the streets for 40 baht, haha) and the main roads.

So, should everything be well, I will obtain the motorcycle.

Another question: do I need a non-immigrant visa to obtain the 'proof of residence' from my embassy to register the vehicle?

I've heard of several folks who've gotten around that law.

I'll probably only own the bike for 3 months and sell it back anyways.

[PeaceBlondie]

You have gone to a lot of trouble to explain your situation, so I'll assume you have no real experience riding a motorcycle. Other than Baghdad, I can't think of a more dangerous place to learn.

Being an athlete just means your body's in great shape to instantly become a paraplegic or a corpse.

If you're suicidal, go ahead and rent a V-Max, or a used Honda 50. Otherwise, don't even try to ride in BKK.

[alohatiger]

You have gone to a lot of trouble to explain your situation, so I'll assume you have no real experience riding a motorcycle. Other than Baghdad, I can't think of a more dangerous place to learn.

Being an athlete just means your body's in great shape to instantly become a paraplegic or a corpse.

If you're suicidal, go ahead and rent a V-Max, or a used Honda 50. Otherwise, don't even try to ride in BKK.

As I said, "before all the warnings come in": haha, I guess you're trying to warn me, but I DO KNOW that some posters here ride there motorcycles in Thailand, and I've seen a few farang riding their motorcycles in Bangkok, so I DO know it's done.

Just need to know how and when it's done is all. Please, only riders with experience riding in Bangkok please post. Thank you for all your warnings, I'd like to hear from the experienced Thailand riders now, thanks.

[alohatiger]

One more thing: CAN you rent a motorcycle in Bangkok? I'm at the point now where I'll put down a full deposit for the thing, AND the rental (with a reputable renter, of course.)

I'm thinking I'll buy a slightly used motorcycle, use it, then sell it back for outrageously less, if the motorcycle is still in good shape, I'll call the loss the rental cost.

What do you think?

[Thumchok]

First of all , Buy a good health insurance package . Hardly a good idea to burden others with your medical or shipment of your body back home costs . If that doesn't turn you off , then go and buy yourself a motorbike . I just did , and I live in bkk and sometimes I drive here too . But usually only when I am heading out of town somewhere . One of the main things to look out for is people turning onto the road in front of you , bikes coming up beside you from both sides , and general lack of respect for road rules including traffic lights .

Take a taxi , they are cheap , and if they have an accident , you can step out and hail another one .

These Thais have been riding bikes since their early teens , They know where they are going ( Most of the time ).

If you are new to bikes you will be a statistic . I have seen many a time where a group of onlookers are watching a guy who has just been hit by a car , or even worse a family . If you are the cause of an accident , you will have this on your mind for the rest of your life . Do you really think it is worth the risks for a couple of months ?

[tracker]

ok, some advice: easy way to learn is to be patient, very, very patient... forget about all the traffic rules you know. This is nomansland on traffic rules.

to be safe, drive as you would always, always to be blamed on any traffic accident, no matter how good and careful your driving was/is.

Then, this attitude will put you in a reasonable safe zone. Another way to achieve this is, never make use of your horn/claxon, and never need it. So in that way you are driving with such care that you are never obstruct another person. It may slow you down, but it is the safest way.

Every day, I drive 100km on a bike, which of, 25km in bangkok. I try to achieve an almost "enlightened" state of mind while driving the 50cm of space between the cars. It is strange, but the more I pay attention to other roadusers, the faster I reach my office...

"The Zen of driving in bkk" lol :-)

T.

[goldfish]

Another thing I would recommend is to always cover the back brake. You may find something like a Yamaha Mio easier for learning. Have 2 fingers hovering over the rear brake lever. I always cover the front brake as well, but maybe not for you just yet.

This may sound rather stupid, but practice shutting off the thottle quickly. You'd be surprised at how many people crash with the throttle still open

[JimsKnight]

First of all , Buy a good health insurance package . Hardly a good idea to burden others with your medical or shipment of your body back home costs . If that doesn't turn you off , then go and buy yourself a motorbike . I just did , and I live in bkk and sometimes I drive here too . But usually only when I am heading out of town somewhere . One of the main things to look out for is people turning onto the road in front of you , bikes coming up beside you from both sides , and general lack of respect for road rules including traffic lights .

Take a taxi , they are cheap , and if they have an accident , you can step out and hail another one .

These Thais have been riding bikes since their early teens , They know where they are going ( Most of the time ).

If you are new to bikes you will be a statistic . I have seen many a time where a group of onlookers are watching a guy who has just been hit by a car , or even worse a family . If you are the cause of an accident , you will have this on your mind for the rest of your life . Do you really think it is worth the risks for a couple of months ?

There are worst places to drive, one being Iraq, but thats a war zone so its different to Bangkok which aint.

Pristina in Kosova is the worst I've ever seen (after the serbs left), and thats worse as the traffic lights are totally ignored! Its like wacky races there and cares were getting smacked every second!

some cars were being driven on three wheels (sparkfest!).

I rode in BKK for about three months without a single problem, no accidents or scrapes, maybe a handful of close calls.

But then I'm the kind of guy who rides from Phitsanoluk to Ayuthya on a 125cc bike with no problems and didn't get worried about doing it, so have a positive attitude and don't get scared.

In central BKK I've only seen one other falang riding a Bike! And he was getting out there! But then I've 'served' an 'apprenticeship' of sorts from riding about Greece, Phuket, Chang Mai, Phitsanoluk before 'graduating' To Bangkok. if you have at least a years biking experience and are a safe rider who doesn't drink and ride (as in drunk and ride) then BKK is not the monster waiting to eat up falang riders.

Where in BKK are you gonna be riding, truth be told I did most of my biking about in the Ramintra District which is somewhat away from the center, but still heavy traffic. Keep your wits about you, don't relax your guard and carry a map of Bangkok around with you. Plan your route before you set out cause trying to map read when waiting at the lights is bad practice (but may be required).

If you're in central Sukumvit and want to bike around their its best to use the public transport / taxis as you'll not save money. If however you don't live near any decent public transport like where I used to stay in Ramintra then I'd say give it a shot and see how you find it. If I was heading into the heart of BKK I'd ride my bike to the nearest Tube Station, leave the bike there and then ride on the tube to the center of BKK, and return later to pick up the bike. If you head into the center then make sure you plan a route out of there. Remember some places a bike isn't allowed to go (Like the Expressway) so plan to not follow traffic up there!

Wear a mask! The traffic fumes will make you sick after about twenty minutes without one. Even wearing one will only extend the 'sickness margin' by about 1 1/2 hours (depending on your bpm/traffic conditions)

Theres a lot a scaremongering about how bad it is for riding in BKK but in reality its a piece of cake once you groove into to the flow of traffic and adjust, but don't get too overconfident!.

Your first ten minutes are the scariest after than you either can do it or you'll be a nervous wreck at the roadside. Be brave but not reckless. Thats how the thai biker guys keep doing it day in day out. Your got to almost loose the fear but not forget it. You'll know what it is if you get out there and ride BKK.

Having a bike allows you to slip past the monster jams and get in front of the cars (when the jams set in), but cross-filtering at speed is an art in itself as you don't want to make a habit a smacking wing mirrors off. Your awareness of other vehicles, checking your mirrors EVERYTIME you want to change lane / position is critical! Failure to observe all these points may result in the the undermentioned.

If you go down on the tarmac amid a clatter of bikes / wreckage there is a very high chance other cars behind you will not have time to stop and you may be crushed to death! So keep your wits about you!

But thats an extreme, I never saw one accident during my riding times around BKK, but like Thumchok says get some accident insurance, its not expensive, I got some for about 1500 baht a year (A and E only).

Good luck!

[Moonfruit]

I have been riding my bikes around Bangkok for 4 years now. I have been riding bikes since i could walk, and am a very confident rider, however barely a week goes by when i dont have a close call.

The only time i have been hit however, was by a taxi pulling across me to pick up a fare. He just managed to knock my bars but i stayed upright. A big kick to his door and i was on my way again, rather red faced.

In all my time riding in Bangers, ive only ever seen a handful of other foreigners doing the same. As said above, forget your highway code, and have your eyes everywhere. No rules apply.

Having said that, i used my motorbike for exactly the same purposes that you want to do when i bought it. Rather than sitting watching TV after work, i would get out on my little bike and go exploring the sois.

Some roads to beware of. Any elevated road, you arent allowed on, and dont wanna be on anyway becoz of cross winds.

Beware of Sukhumvit Rd around the Nana area where there are 2 lanes going south, and one lane going north. That area is a nightmare.

Ramkamhaeng sux, though it is a nice ride once you get out past the elevated section of the road.

Buy a decent helmet. Most would argue that the helmet i use isnt decent (I use a UK safety standard rock climbing helmet) but its better than anything made in Thailand. It has lots of air vents to keep my head cool, and an open face so i can breath deep on all those fumes. When going on a longer journey outside Bangkok i do use a full face Shoei though.

Personally speaking, i think riding outside Bangers is much more dangerous, simply because there is much more speed involved. Generally in bangers the traffic flow is very slow, whereas outside your looking at accidents happening at over 100kmh.

Drop me a line if you want to go exploring. I never can get enough of it.

Oh, and on a final note, make sure you have all your papers together and a few hhundred baht notes in your pocket. The police love to pull over motorbikes, and you WILL end up shelling out a few hundred baht/week to them.

[corkscrew]

I know driving is dangerous in Bangkok, especially on a motorcycle. Before the warnings come in, I need to tell you I am an athlete and plan to use the motorbike part-time, during the evenings (I know, drunk drivers) when there's less traffic. I really need to get to know Bangkok much better, and a car (rental or otherwise) seems too big to get around, harder to park, and an otherwise bigger investment. I may consider a car rental, but I want to explore the motorbike option first.

I have GPS, so getting lost is not a problem. Just find a "safe haven" to pull over to, and see where I am. That's pretty easy. If I do get lost, I won't be lost for long.

Now: Bangkok's road quirks: I need to know about the one-ways, dead-ends, round-abouts, etc., stuff the new driver wouldn't know. For example: if you get on 'so and so' highway, it's an express to the airport and you cannot turn around until you reach the end! Avoid unless you're going there. 'End example.'

I've ridden with motorcycle taxis often and they seem to know all the ins and outs. Shortcuts too.

As for now, I plan on only driving the same paths as the motocycle drivers take (a quick and easy way to learn the streets for 40 baht, haha) and the main roads.

So, should everything be well, I will obtain the motorcycle.

Another question: do I need a non-immigrant visa to obtain the 'proof of residence' from my embassy to register the vehicle?

I've heard of several folks who've gotten around that law.

I'll probably only own the bike for 3 months and sell it back anyways.

If you own the vehicle...rather than just rent it...your Thai insurance will not cover you unless you have a Thai driver's license. An International Driving Permit is not enough.

I drive a car here. I would never even ride on a motorcycle taxi much less drive one. I don't like emergency wards.

[besth]

I'd suggest you don't go for the cheapest motorcycle you can find, but for the best you can afford comfortably. Get good tires, good brakes and good shock absorbers (plenty of potholes and all kind of unexpected small obstacles).

Drive as if everyone else on the road is out there to kill you and keep concentration to the maximum (not so easy with so many short skirts around).

Rules? What rules? Red lights, one way signs, etc. are there merely as suggestions. A lot of people seems to disagree with those suggestions.

If you don't know Bangkok well and you only plan to be here for three months, it may not be worth it as you may end up losing more time trying to find your way around that what you'll save in traffic, although the GPS can help.

If police is around, remember to drive on the left lane, otherwise you'll be contributing to their tea money fund. Remember to keep your lights on at all times. As someone has already mentioned, motorcycles are not authorized in Motorways and even in some flyovers.

I agree that it is the best way to go around the big mango. If you finally do it, take care and enjoy it.

[besth]

Every day, I drive 100km on a bike, which of, 25km in bangkok. I try to achieve an almost "enlightened" state of mind while driving the 50cm of space between the cars. It is strange, but the more I pay attention to other roadusers, the faster I reach my office...

"The Zen of driving in bkk" lol :-)

T.

Yep, that is it!

[yankee-expat]

Drive as if everyone else on the road is out there to kill you

No better advice has ever been uttered.

[Tony Clifton]

There are many bad driving habits here you have to observe first for a while and learn to predict.

Here's one:

The pendulum

A car follows behind, you look in your rear view and side mirrors and this guy is swinging right and left even though there's a bus and two poultry trucks in front of you and five garbage trucks in the left lane. These drivers are usually convinced they have spotted a wormhole ahead that will allow them to travel through time and space , no matter how congested the road is. They will try and overtake in that space betwen you and the left lane vehicle and cut right in. According to these guys, you are now behind them and THEY have priority. Be careful of overtakers using the left lane.

Edited December 1, 2006 by Tony Clifton

[Moonfruit]

I see many people keep suggesting to always look in your mirrors.

In all the years i have been riding, from being a learner to a sunday biker back home to being here, i have never heard this advise.

Every biker i have known back in the UK completely disregards his mirrors. They are, after all useless as you pretty much only see your shoulders. There is NO substitute for turning your head around and taking a look.

Indeed, if you do not look over your shoulder at least once every 15 secs you will fail your UK bike test.

[Loz]

hmmm, interestingly when I took my bike test in the UK (11 years ago) this over the shoulder glance was know as the "life saver".

I ride in a City Called Korat. its not bangkok but it has the same "challenges". just be careful and you'll be as fine as the next man. Wide open throttle everwhere is not a good idea until you are used to how everyone around you will react. I enjoy riding in this cooler weather but its too hot to be comfortable most of the year ( or too wet!).

Enjoy biking, it 's a great cheap way to get around and you avoid the street mafia who charge youfor lifting up your wiper blades everytime you stop for a bite to eat! (grrrrr!!)

Defensive riding is always good practice and please, in case it's not been said. Wear a helmet!

[Tony Clifton]

I see many people keep suggesting to always look in your mirrors.

In all the years i have been riding, from being a learner to a sunday biker back home to being here, i have never heard this advise.

Every biker i have known back in the UK completely disregards his mirrors. They are, after all useless as you pretty much only see your shoulders. There is NO substitute for turning your head around and taking a look.

Indeed, if you do not look over your shoulder at least once every 15 secs you will fail your UK bike test.

Why then do I adjust the mirrors frequently so that I can see clearly behind me? It does work. If all you can see is your shoulders then you need to extend/adjust the mirors so they stick further outwards. The over the shoulder look is not to look behind but at the dead angle the mirror doesn't cover on your side should you change lane or leave the road.

[Mid]

Indeed, if you do not look over your shoulder at least once every 15 secs you will fail your UK bike test.

any cite for this ??

[Briggsy]

Indeed, if you do not look over your shoulder at least once every 15 secs you will fail your UK bike test.

any cite for this ??

This is absolutely true.

Thais say to me, "Why do you do that?" No matter how you adjust your mirrors you will have blind spots.

7 years biking daily in BKK. Never come off. Total concentration required. Do not use your mobile phone when riding.

Got splatted in Nakorn Pathom once by a pick-up blasting through a red light. It didn't stop. Left me with a wobbly ankle. Now I assume they are going to jump the lights. Upcountry they do it all the time. In BKK tends to be the 5 seconds after the lights change. So never be the first away from the lights.

You will be pulled up by the police. You need to learn their tricks.

I'm still riding. Good luck.

[Bottlerocket]

Aloha, Tiger.

I rode my 125cc motorcycle in Bangkok for 2 years. It was my main mode of transport. The day I got it is what finally made being in Bkk tolerable. Riding between cars is the norm especially when traffic is stopped at the lights. It's important to get to the front of the line and zip away from the cars when the light turns green. Bkk is a huge city so nobody can tell you everything you need to know about learning the quirks. However, keep these things in mind:

There are certain bridges over the river which are prohibited to motorcycles.

Motorbike, pedestrians, and dogs will come out of nowhere. Pay special attention to bus stops. Most people here aren't ingrained with that look left, then right, then left again habit. It's actually the opposite here as well. People will just walk out into the street from behind a bus or in the middle of the road and not even consider that cars might be coming. You've been warned.

Other than I highly recommend it. Half the people on this board sound like they've lost their spirit. Everything is insurance and risk and fear. Do it, dude. It's a blast.

[Loz]

Bottlerocket for president!!!!

[jbowman1993]

37 dead daily on the roads in Thailand, 34 of the on moto-sai's. Good Luck with all that.

[ray23]

Some good advice here, but what I don't understand yet is what is your level of riding experience?

If it's zero start in an empty parking lot somewhere until you are comfotable with the basics of the bike.

It is zero in riding in the heavy traffic of Bangkok, from what you said. Don't head to the main section the first day. Try to find places with less traffic, which sound like what you have in mind driving later. Don't know how that works there but don't start in the worst in enviornment unless that is the only option.

I have ridden most of my life and four years in Issan, I won't ride in Bangkok cause I spend to much time being lost instead of paying attention to what I'm doing when I'm riding. We have a big event in Udon right now, I spent an hour or so in very heavy trafffic last night. I would much rather be on the bike. Just bought a new bike and I couldn;t think of a better way to get ued to it then to go play in the street with the cars. It did very well handles great. But, I am an experienced rider with the right license, insurance ect. and I was not lost.

The one traffic rule here that never changes is the rule of size, who ever is the biggest has the right of way, starts with the busses, you are just above pedestrians but not by much.

Issan has other challenges, such a water buffalo deciding to cross the road. But the funniest story I have experienced here is almost putting me and the bike up a elephants butt at night. Learn to ride. adapt to the enviornemnt. Do so carfully being patient and you to will probably enjoy a good past time here in Thailand. Not everyone is killed on motorcycles. But, being stupid on one, sure increaese the odds against you.

[Gary A]

I've been in Thailand for many years and have RARELY seen fatal road accidents OTHER than motorcycles. I can't count the number of riders that I have seen splattered on the roads. A little bump on the handlebar and you can easily be under the wheels of a bus. I certainly DON'T want to die on the road or in the back of a pickup truck heading for the hospital. Good luck to you and I hope you DON'T need the luck.

[Crossy]

But the funniest story I have experienced here is almost putting me and the bike up a elephants butt at night.

Just for you Ray

[Crossy]

Indeed, if you do not look over your shoulder at least once every 15 secs you will fail your UK bike test.

any cite for this ??

This is absolutely true.

When I took my UK bike test (many moons ago) we all removed our mirrors for the test in order to force the look behind over the shoulder (so the examiner was in no doubt that you had indeed looked).

Back in the days of big vertical twins the vibration made mirrors unusable when the engine was running let alone you actually moving

[ray23]

But the funniest story I have experienced here is almost putting me and the bike up a elephants butt at night.

Just for you Ray

yep thats the one crappy story I must say

[alleykat]

I rode a smallish bike all over Bangkok for nearly 2 years. But I learned to ride before I moved to Bangkok. Had quite a few close calls.

I was very lucky. Get the shivers when I think about some things.

It is very convenient though. But if you can avoid it, do!

[mt2005]

Did ride a motorbike in Phnom Penh, Chang Mai, Chang Rai, Hanoi, several Chinese cities and some other big Asian towns, though not in BKK. Though it's crowded, I've considered this much of a pleasure.

And yes, it's dangerous, but that heavily depends on the way you drive your bike. From western countries, you'll probably used to the fact that OTHER people do (at least should) guard your safety. In Asian countries/cities, you are the one taking care of your own safety.

So when changing direction, going forward, etc. just assure yourself you can go there without conflict of interest with something bigger or more stable.

Be alert for other people's actions (and not only people, also dogs, and other livestock).

Don't dream away behind the handle bars. Stay alert. It's you who does have to guard your safety.

Wear a decent helmet, not the building constructors type of a helmet, use a model also seen in western countries. These tend to be roughly the same (but without the approval seal) as the low price entry models in the west. In the shop, they'll often refer to these helmets as being made in Taiwan.

Wear some leather gloves.

Consider to wear some motor boots.

Consider to wear a lightweight protection jacket and jeans.

Create yourself a fysical statue on the bike, like "Hear I am". This will give you a more significant visible presence on the road, giving you a little road "clearance", just like when you are behind the steering wheel of a big truck (Everybody will move out of the way of a big truck....).

Regarding the police. When you are tall: Wear a helmet with dark mask. When stopped, step of your bike, stand in full length close in front of the officer and politely ask what he wants. You'll probably be at least a head taller then the officer, which might not make him feel comfortable and as such, his intuitive reaction would be to get away from you. Please take care to be extremely polite, no physical threats, just your big appearance.

Enjoy your trips.

Edited December 3, 2006 by mt2005

[alohatiger]

Well, thanks for all the words. Looks like I may just get some few more months of experience riding a motorcycle, outside of Bangkok. But I'll still be cruising up and down the back soi's and streets, just with a good motorcycle taxi. I find them to be nearly invaluable learning how and where to ride in Bangkok: not only do they know the best and current path, but riding behind them teaches me which decisions they make and why.

BTW, my experience is about 9 months of riding around Thailand's islands etc. Had some fun on the unpaved dirt roads and mud in the south.

I've decided on a few things:

1. Always wear protective gear: a motorcycle ride will have to be a 'outing', not a casual affair. I'll have to 'kit up' and wear all my gear at ALL times. That's really the only way to ride and not ask for it.

2. NEVER drink and drive. Not a big deal for me, but I'll have to find a place to stash my motorcycle near the places I frequent!

3. Always go easy and with the flow. Gotta give way most of the time.

4. And, I may just find a bike that has little power, etc., so that I CAN'T speed. Haha. Me on a 100cc bike. Slow acceleration, slow speed. Might just save my life.

I still gotta get my gear first, which'll be a blazingly visible motorcycle jacket (day and night), some boots, and a bright helmet.

And to the posters:

Tracker: Thanks for the words. Calmness IS key out there.

JimsKnight: I will plan my route. In fact, the first time, I'll just use a motorcycle taxi to follow! And thanks for the words.

MOONFRUIT: That's what it's about! EXPLORING! There are so many places out there just waiting to be discovered. Just got to know it's there!

Besth: I'll definitely go with a very well-maintained bike. I may even go with some improvements.

Tony Clifton: On the Pendulum, that'll definitely help me one day. Thank you.

As far as mirrors and the look back go, I thought it was constantly scan mirrors, and always look over before you change lanes.

Bottlerocket: good tempered words on encouragement.

Ray23: I'll keep your words in mind.

And dealing with the police: what do I do? Assuming I DO get all the paperwork right, and a Thai DL, how am I going to deal with the police?

BIKE IMPROVEMENTS

I'd especially like to hear on any BIKE IMPROVEMENTS that will make riding safer in Bangkok. Since I'm a heavy guy, I always go with front disc brakes and a wider back tire.

I've seen on rice rockets (Japanese sport bikes) the electronic light control unit (back in the West) that makes the headlights flicker in a noticeable fashion. Don't know how expensive they are.

Also, a good pipe probably wouldn't hurt. Let 'em know you're coming!

Any other suggestions?