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conventional vs synthetic oil for car, which is better?


momtaz

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Hello guys,

 

which type of car oil is better the synthetic or conventional to be considered when it change car oil?

and if certain type more useful for certain type of cars, engines etc,,

what are the advantages, disadvantages of each type?

any additional information will be highly appreciated, kind regards.

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Nowadays - you gotta read up on the 'API Service Standard' - or equivalent. 

 

Its not really a guessing game anymore. Your owners manual for your particular vehicle should indicate what viscosity is required, and what API Service Standard. 

 

A lot of modern oils are semi-synthetic or fully-synthetic. In Thailand its a little harder to find 'conventional' but not impossible. 

 

Lol this subject is bound to cause some debate. 

 

End of the day, really, use exactly what the manufacturer recommends. 

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If you stick with what your owners manual recommends, then you won't go far wrong.

 

If it recommends a conventional or semi synthetic oil then upgrading to a more costly fully synthetic would be more beneficial for your engine, but stick with well known brands, like Mobil, Shell, Castrol, Valvoline etc..

Always try and stay within the recommended viscosity set by the manufacturer.

 

The advantages of synthetic over conventional oils is better durability to cope with low & high engine temperatures, with better overall lubrication.

 

Semi Synthetic is a mixture of the two, but some brands could have a minimal synthetic oil mix ratio to keep down costs without the consumer knowing.

 

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Don't put too much stock in what the new car manufacturers say. Most spec 5W20 -  the only reason to help CAFE (corporate average fuel economy) Dino oil plenty good enough for run of the mill cars and trucks. Change every 5000 km. Full Syn OK for high performance bikes - and cars - where they are making lots of horsepower and operating at high revs. Overkill for anything else. Will not significantly increase engine life or mileage. But if you want to spend the $$$ for some pie-in-the-sky benefit - UP 2 U

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2 minutes ago, canthai55 said:

Don't put too much stock in what the new car manufacturers say. Most spec 5W20 -  the only reason to help CAFE (corporate average fuel economy) Dino oil plenty good enough for run of the mill cars and trucks. Change every 5000 km. Full Syn OK for high performance bikes - and cars - where they are making lots of horsepower and operating at high revs. Overkill for anything else. Will not significantly increase engine life or mileage. But if you want to spend the $$$ for some pie-in-the-sky benefit - UP 2 U

Syn is the best at doing the lubrication job....No question....If one has the wonga for syn, it is the best..

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Have used semi-synthetic in a Lancer Ralliart, which has been driven quite hard, since new in 2006 and it still does not need topping up between scheduled services. Fully synthetic it no benefit unless you have a high performance car and is expensive, however, the dealer will recommend it to you so just say no semi is ok!

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2 hours ago, canthai55 said:

Don't put too much stock in what the new car manufacturers say. Most spec 5W20 -  the only reason to help CAFE (corporate average fuel economy) Dino oil plenty good enough for run of the mill cars and trucks. Change every 5000 km. Full Syn OK for high performance bikes - and cars - where they are making lots of horsepower and operating at high revs. Overkill for anything else. Will not significantly increase engine life or mileage. But if you want to spend the $$$ for some pie-in-the-sky benefit - UP 2 U

 

Imho a person should always use what the manufacturer recommends for a 'run of the mill' car. Trying to 'out-think' the manufacturer (who has way more time in R&D than we do) is kinda silly. 

 

All the performance engines that Ive built use conventional oil. Not synthetic. My last one was over 700HP at the tires with Nitrous (7,000 RPM) and still use conventional oil. The reason being is that conventional oil lubricates just fine, and its cheaper as I change oil every 500 - 1000 miles after initial break in for inspection. 

 

There are other benefits to synthetic such as increased oil change interval (10,000 MILES) if the manufacturer approves of it. 

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On the topic of cost, I don't know if this is still working practise, but in my previous life I had a friend who worked for Scania.  He said that they used fully synthetic in the HGV fleets and never changed the oil.  They would only change the filter and top up the oil.  They're expensive trucks so I wouldn't think they'd be cutting corners if new was necessary.

 

In older cars I watched over and over as mineral oil would reduce in viscosity as it broke down.  My last (and most expensive) car there it said to use at least 1/2 synthetic mix.  I used to pay the extra and go fully synthetic, but in that case they did drop the oil at service time.  I'm not sure if that was necessary or an up sell technique, or whether the Scania reference would still be valid today and whether valid for lighter standard vehicles at all.

 

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1 minute ago, Shiver said:

In older cars I watched over and over as mineral oil would reduce in viscosity as it broke down.

 

How old was the car? Fuel Injected or Carburetor? 

 

How are you seeing mineral oil break down? 

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52 minutes ago, Sooo Upto Me said:

Semi synthetic will do. U can't go wrong with that.

Only slightly more expensive.

Hope ur taking this onboard Transam & Strange ?

Not in the Everest, Ranger,  Fiesta EcoBoost or Focus my friend ... Hope ur taking this onboard ☺

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I think it depends on how long you intend to keep your car, five to ten years regular oil ok, if you want it to last a very long time use synthetic as it leaves very little sludge in your engine and does improve performance, also don't have to change as often.

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Had a Subaru years ago from new, and they begged me not to use synthetic oil because it broke down the gaskets and created all sorts of problems. After warranty ended they didn't care. There was only Mobil 1 in those days. Of course everything is vastly improved with many manufacturers suggesting 10,000 miles between changes......I still change at 3,000 miles as it is cheap insurance.

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1 hour ago, JAS21 said:

Not in the Everest, Ranger,  Fiesta EcoBoost or Focus my friend ... Hope ur taking this onboard ☺

 

Agreed. 

 

Just had a look, and yep, they recommend "Ford-Magnatec Professional A5" 5W30 for gasoline engines. This is a fully synthetic API SN; ILSAC GF-4

 

https://www.ford.co.th/en/owner/ford-engine-oil/

 

They also - on the bottle itself - go on to note that their 'claims' of better longevity over other brands are a 'Dramatization of (Ra)' witch translates to "haha you just bought our oil over the other guys"

 

Point being (for anyone reading) that its all about the SAE API standard that the manufacturer recommends. 

 

Screen Shot 2016-11-19 at 6.57.45 PM.png

 

Edited by Strange
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5 hours ago, transam said:

If new car use what they recommend till it's done it's 'break in' period. There is no doubt using full synthetic after that will extend engine life........

 

PS. I now feel nashing of teeth at my heels telling me to feeeeer off...:laugh:

Actually I am one who agrees with you 100%. Using Synthetic Oil right from the start and after the break in oil, is very important. You will notice it will use some oil at first as it coats all of the engine interior moving parts. But after that it uses no oil at all.

 

On an older car which has never used Synthetic Oil before, I am bit doubtful there is any benefit at all to switching. Considering the higher cost I don't think I would switch. Synthetic Oil is a better lubricant, but I am not sure it is any use on worn out parts already. Not sure!   

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100 % synthetic, all the way every day

Especially in LoS with high temperatures, synthetic oil lubricates well even if it is very warm

(change frequently, thats cheap spa/well being treatment for the mill)

 

talkin about synthetic,

I have some problems with very warm gear box (manual) I'd like to have fully synthetic gear oil

Can find fully synthetic gear oil in BKK, but very expensive, the oils are made for racing cars (2000-3000 baht / litre)

Anyone know of normally piced fully sythetic gear oil?

 

(am using half synthetic Valvoline gear oil now)

 

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Which is better...? Any good quality oil which meets the vehicle/engines specification, as has been touched on a lot of engines do not benefit any further from Fully synth oil so why waste money?? If you are running high performance then yes these engines require fully synth, but older vehicles are more than happy with a good semi synth multigrade oil specced to that vehicle.

 

Same arguments with Dot 4 and Dot 5/5.5 brake fluids, standard cars most use Dot 4 no need to spend more on DOT 5s but you wanna waste your money no probs...

 

Regular oil changes and preventative maintenance/correct servicing prolongs engine/vehicle life - simple as that.

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Synthetic oil is the superior choice if you have a turbo and/or you practice extended oil change intervals.

 

Although a high quality conventional motor oil will provide adequate protection as long as it is approved by the vehicle manufacturer in the Owners Manual.

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9 hours ago, Shiver said:

On the topic of cost, I don't know if this is still working practise, but in my previous life I had a friend who worked for Scania.  He said that they used fully synthetic in the HGV fleets and never changed the oil.  They would only change the filter and top up the oil.  They're expensive trucks so I wouldn't think they'd be cutting corners if new was necessary.

 

In older cars I watched over and over as mineral oil would reduce in viscosity as it broke down.  My last (and most expensive) car there it said to use at least 1/2 synthetic mix.  I used to pay the extra and go fully synthetic, but in that case they did drop the oil at service time.  I'm not sure if that was necessary or an up sell technique, or whether the Scania reference would still be valid today and whether valid for lighter standard vehicles at all.

 

 

Not a good practice to never change oil even if its synthetic. 

 

Modern oils all rely heavily on additive packages for everything from detergent cleaning to viscosity improvers. These additives wear out over time and need to be replaced. The method to do this is to replace the old oil with new.

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3 hours ago, Lokie said:

Which is better...? Any good quality oil which meets the vehicle/engines specification, as has been touched on a lot of engines do not benefit any further from Fully synth oil so why waste money?? If you are running high performance then yes these engines require fully synth, but older vehicles are more than happy with a good semi synth multigrade oil specced to that vehicle.

 

Same arguments with Dot 4 and Dot 5/5.5 brake fluids, standard cars most use Dot 4 no need to spend more on DOT 5s but you wanna waste your money no probs...

 

Regular oil changes and preventative maintenance/correct servicing prolongs engine/vehicle life - simple as that.

 

Dot 5 is NOT interchangeable with Dot 4. 

 

Dot 5 is silicone based. The others are polyethylene glycol based. 

 

Dot 5 is not compatible with Anti-Lock Brake systems.

 

Sort of negates the rest of your argument? 

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14 hours ago, melvinmelvin said:

 

talkin about synthetic,

I have some problems with very warm gear box (manual) I'd like to have fully synthetic gear oil

Can find fully synthetic gear oil in BKK, but very expensive, the oils are made for racing cars (2000-3000 baht / litre)

Anyone know of normally piced fully sythetic gear oil?

 

(am using half synthetic Valvoline gear oil now)

 

 

You could try Slick 50 manual gearbox treatment which you add to your existing 

oil (no need to replace it if it's recently been changed)

 

http://www.slick50.info/manual-gearbox-treatment/

I've used this product before and it does make a difference.

 

Can order it from Amazon and Halfords also sells it in the UK.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/B003HCNZ8C/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

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1 hour ago, transam said:

You can mix....

No I would not put full syn in an old engine as it can/could get past crank seals, I have the T-shirt...

I also have that shirt ... put it in my wifes Mazda Lantis as it uses LPG... it drips slightly sometimes ... it doesn't do a high mileage so yearly changes or a little more and never need to top up between oil changes.

 

When we had the V-Cross I changed to Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Pickup 5W-40 ... it completely stopped that few second rattle on start up ... at that time actually out of spec and Isuzu didn't have a fully synthetic 5W-40.  However a year or so later they came out with Tri-Petch Fully Synthetic 5W-40 ... I forget who's oil it was now but the engine wasn't as quite on cold start up as before. So next oil change went back to Mobile 1.

 

Of course you can mix non-synthetic with synthetic ... it just changes the spec to the lower spec.

 

It's interesting what Ford say you can add, for top up, if you can't get their recommended oil ...

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19 hours ago, transam said:

Syn is the best at doing the lubrication job....No question....If one has the wonga for syn, it is the best..

18 hours ago, canthai55 said:

 

Agreed - but overkill for most.

 

Yeah synth is over kill, I just use straight 50 weight conventional is all my vehicles now, the camry does not seem to like it though.

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