Stiebel water heater - suggestions?

[Sheryl]

I spent a frustrating day at Home Pro (is there any other type of day one can spend there?). My hot water heater has died and I need to replace it -- can't complain, as it ran for 20 years! I want to get another Stiebel as that is what this was and it served me very well.

 

They have them, but they have many models, and therein came the frustration as no one could speak a word of English and my Thai isn't great once it gets into technical specifications -- but the larger problems was I think their sheer lack of knowledge. The specification inserts were all in Thai, as well. In addition, I am not sure that what they showed me suit the purpose as I think they may just be shower heaters and I like to take hot baths, makes a difference.

 

Tried to call the company, got a "press 9 for English" which led to an immediate disconnect

 

My need is for a point-of-use heater that will work for taking baths, not just showers (and this is where the sales staff become useless). The units they showed me today are all much smaller in size than what I have been using and I think are made just for showers.

 

Steibel apparently had what they call "multi point" heaters and :shower heaters". Can someone tell me if I need a multi point or shower? I will often be using it for bath, not shower, but only at the same one point, so am confused as to which to get,

 

Would also appreciate any suggestions as to model. I want energy efficient as possible, and also one that can work with low w/flunctuatng water pressure. Don't care in the least about LED displays and features like that., just want something that will reliably provide enough hot water to fill a bathtub, hopefully without sky high electric bills as a consequence, and able to do so under sometimes low water pressure. I don't mind paying more for this.

 

I have tried calking Steibel but the "press 9 for english" leads to an automatic disconnect .

 

Appreciate any suggestions. Again, need is for bath not shower, but only in the one location.

[janclaes47]

Just look at the Wattage of your old heater, and buy one with the same wattage.

[Hereinthailand]

 

You dont really need a multi point unless you want separate lines for shower and tub. Power usage will depend on the temp of water you want and how much you use. http://www.stiebeleltronasia.com/showtype.php?productcateid=4 4500-6000 watts should be good for you, just make sure your power box breaker and line size is able to take whatever size you buy.

32 amp breaker for 6KW/25 amp for 4.5 KW- Wire should be at least 2.5mm

[Crossy]

If you have taps on the bath and shower you need a multi-point heater. Shower heaters vent via the shower head and in the event of a fault in the control electronics keeping the heater on will blow up if that venting is closed.

 

There are also differences in the heater control (flow or pressure), multipoints are invariably flow controlled but showers can be either.

 

We have two "Redring" branded 6kW units which work very well, they are about 1/2 the size of a pack of A4 paper.

 

EDIT This one https://www.homepro.co.th/product/257576

 

 

[Langsuan Man]

Here is the model that I use for hot water in the kitchen tap.  No temperature controls since temperature is regulated by adding cold water at the tap.  This may suit you since you just want hot water for the tub

 

[juehoe]

We use Stiebel multipoint water heaters with 8 kW for our kitchens and the guest bathroom. No problems since 2 years.


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[Sheryl]

To run a 6 or 8,000 watt heater I would likely have to redo the wiring, would prefer to avoid if possible.

 

What is the difference between being flow controlled and pressure controlled, seem liek both would depend on water pressure?

 

And can anyone recommend a specific model that is not more than 4,500 watts, energy saving and OK with low water pressure?

[Crossy]

If you put a tap on the outlet of a pressure controlled heater (that would be a shower heater) it will explode! Plenty of pressure (outlet restricted) keeps the power on, nowhere for heated water (steam) to go = bang!!!

 

Flow controlled heaters monitor the passage of water through the heater, flow stops, power off. They are also better on low water pressure

 

If it's classed as multipoint it will be flow controlled.

 

 

[Sheryl]

OK, so clear now I need a multi point.

 

Problem now is that these all seem to be 6-8,000 kw and I am not sure that my wiring can handle that load.

 

Can anyone recommend a brand/model of multipoint heater that is not more than 4,500 watts?

 

 

[Crossy]

The Redring unit I linked to earlier has three power settings, just don't set it to 6kW

 

[luudee]

 

I did as other have suggested here, researched wich unit I want online, and

then ordered in from Lazada. Came in 3 days ...

 

luudee

 

[Hereinthailand]

This is the one I would choose for your need. http://www.stiebeleltronasia.com/productdetail.php?productcateid=4&producttypeid=43&productseriesid=82&id=1132 Energy efficient, low pressure capable, and good capacity of water and only 25 amp breaker for 4500 watts. My stiebel is 6 years old and never had a problem yet.

[Hereinthailand]

Also if you can stuff insulation everywhere you can around your tub to retain heat or even get some spray insulation foam to fill in around it. Well worth the time and money to keep your water hot.

[Sheryl]

17 minutes ago, Hereinthailand said:

This is the one I would choose for your need. http://www.stiebeleltronasia.com/productdetail.php?productcateid=4&producttypeid=43&productseriesid=82&id=1132 Energy efficient, low pressure capable, and good capacity of water and only 25 amp breaker for 4500 watts. My stiebel is 6 years old and never had a problem yet.

 

Thank you very much, but that is a shower unit. Are you using it to run baths?

[janclaes47]

2 hours ago, Sheryl said:

OK, so clear now I need a multi point.

 

Problem now is that these all seem to be 6-8,000 kw and I am not sure that my wiring can handle that load.

 

Can anyone recommend a brand/model of multipoint heater that is not more than 4,500 watts?

 

 

 

Did you look already at the spec of your old unit?

 

I doubt that with a 4500 Watt unit you're able to fill a bath with hot water, but as you say that you're used to taking baths, you unit must have been sufficient.

 

So if you were taking baths before, I suspect your unit was more then 4.5Kw, and if you house hasn't burned down yet your wiring will be sufficient.

 

[juehoe]

 
Did you look already at the spec of your old unit?
 
I doubt that with a 4500 Watt unit you're able to fill a bath with hot water, but as you say that you're used to taking baths, you unit must have been sufficient.
 
So if you were taking baths before, I suspect your unit was more then 4.5Kw, and if you house hasn't burned down yet your wiring will be sufficient.
 

4.5 kW is not enough, indeed!

My experience is that a 6 kW heater can deliver a temperature of 45 °C, the 8 kW heater about 55 °C.

45 °C is enough for a shower, but the water flow may be too low. With 55 °C you have to mix and there for a higher water flow.

[Hereinthailand]

Why wouldnt it fill a tub ??? It delivers a constant supply of water at whatever temp you decide, i can take a 30 minute shower with the same temp if I want. Thats why they are called on demand water heaters.

[sfokevin]

http://www.lazada.co.th/toshiba-wh-4511gnw-4500-11077196.html?ff=1

 

[Sheryl]

To be suitable for a bath it needs to have a high flow rate. Otherwise, the water will cool off well before the tub is full. I think that, more than how hot the water is, is the issue.

 

I no longer have the manual for my old unit. On the side of it, it reads

"4,6,8,12 KW  220v 50 Hz"

I don't know what to make of that, there is no switch to adjust the wattage. It is on a 20 amp circuit breaker and would trip it if run for very long.

 

So in short, I don't know what it was running at but probably only 4-6 KW?

[Hereinthailand]

You are missing the point, the heater in it is just a small canister, not a big water tank ! They are all basically the same. That water inlet line is roughly the same size no matter what the wattage. Higher wattage is only good for when you have colder inlet water. My 3500 watt in the city works great because the water temp from the supply is fairly high, in my village water it is much cooler due to well water so I run a 4500 watt unit, it doesnt have to work as hard heating the water ! As long as water is running thru the system it is going to be heated to the wattage available. Its not rocket science. 

[tonboy]

why not invest in the future and buy a sun boiler search for "Solar hot water system". Plenty of hot water at almost no cost.

 

[Sheryl]

I would love to have solar heated water and wish I'd put it in when I built  the house.

 

But I am not up for tearing out the tiling now to do it. Wall and floor (and bathtub, since the pipes go in under it) would all have to come out in order to connect it. So until/unless I need to do an extensive bathroom remodel anyway, this will have to wait.

 

Hereinthailand - the various heaters do differ in how energy efficient they are, how well they perform in conditions of low or erratic water pressure, and how fast the outflow is.  It is indeed a simple matter if all one wants is a hot shower, but for filling a bathtub it gets more complicated.

[Hereinthailand]

What is different ? cold water goes in hot water comes out ??????????? Please explain your rational, my friend takes a bath everyday with a 4.5 kw unit, so why cant you ?

[Sheryl]

The rate of flow differs. As does electricity consumption. And how well a unit operates under low or flunctuating water pressure. That you have a friend who takes a bath using a 4,500 watt heater does not mean that every single water heater of that wattage will work well for this purpose in all settings.

 

I finally got hold of someone at Stiebel. Took some doing, i.e. (1) ignoring the "press 9 for English", since that only disconnects, and pressing 0 instead; (2) talking to a variety of people in Thai and ultimately being told to call a different number; (3) calling that number and getting someone else with no English who told me I had to call the original number instead; (4) holding firm and telling her I already had and they said to call her --> ultimately she went and got someone who really spoke English and seemed to know what she was talking about and it has been smooth sailing from there.

 

After having me send them pictures of the wiring to be sure it could support it, they have advised me to get a multi-point model DHC6EC. And it turns out I can exchange the old unit for a 15% discount. So seems to be a happy ending.