Jump to content

Building a lap pool.


sipi

Recommended Posts

'Thanks Carl. You have just made my mind up for me.
Preconstructed?'.
Sorry I did answer this but forgot to post it.
Since then I really like the long above ground pool from Crossy' s post.
The short version of what I said was, which ever construction method you use, depends on the capabilities of your building team. @grollies (one of my gurus), did a block pool.
I would have done an 8" cement block pool, but transportation costs alone were B 22000 for the blocks.
I didn't think the Thai cinder blocks were strong enough, but since then have found a place where they will make them stronger in a special order.
I could rent the frame local, but not the adjustable supports, hence all the steel box section.
I think the frame is more difficult as everything is moving and you have to have a smart team. Frame renting is B1500 per day, so at the end of the day, what method you use completely depends on your Thai building team.
I've gone through 1 mob already. Hope I can keep this new mob[emoji26].

Sent from my SM-J700F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From what I can gather most concrete above ground water tanks are 150mm base and 125mm wall thickness, however they are much taller than an above ground pool (2.4, 2.8m). So I guess that could be a rough guide for an above ground pool.

However the kit pools sure look great so might settle that way.

Thanks one and all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

depending on how much time you have....you can build a steel pipe frame and attach wire mesh followed by concrete (waterproof) plaster....the same way the built concrete boats. And it's very easy to do, but a pain twisting all the tie wires.

Any shape and size you want....the mind boggles.

 

Edited by weegee
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Place tongue in cheek before reading  :smile:

 

I do wonder if pools intended for people swimming are over-engineered with 150mm ++ reinforced concrete walls etc etc.

 

After all many koi ponds are simply a hole (you'll need that anyway unless going above-ground) and a simple HDPE liner 1mm or so thick. Nothing to stop you swimming in a koi pond, koi manage it perfectly well.

 

Of course it's not going to nice smooth tiles, and it's probably going to be black http://www.pondkeeper.co.uk/flexiliner/

 

Or maybe this is the solution https://www.penguinpool.com/types-of-pools/inground-pool-quotes/inground-vinyl-liner-pool-designs/  ...

 

Our 1m deep koi pond has a 100mm mesh reinforced concrete base and simple rendered block walls, the blocks were back-filled to the sides of the hole with more concrete and mesh. If it were a little deeper it would be perfectly swimmable.

 

I'll get my coat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Crossy,

 

You are probably correct.

The trouble is that when you build something like a swimming pool, for the first time, and you get a structural engineering report on the job, you have to believe what they say.

My pool slab is 40 cm thick and 2 lots of 12 mm rebar. One would think, over the top. The walls are 25 cm thick with 2 layers of 12 mm rebar as well. (Hopefully; not poured yet).

I know one of my advisors has over engineered his pool more than me.

So at the end of the day, you have to make a decision between say 1 layer of rebar, or 2 layers, at 10 mm thickness or 12 or 16 mm, with a slab of 25 cm or 30 or 40 cm and walls between 15 cm and 30 cm, so you would tend to over spec. than under spec.

I think it also depends on your budget. If you have a budget, in my case of B700000, and you get quoted over B1400000, then you tend to go bigger than smaller.

Hope it doesn't leak or break in half.

Also, where I live, when I ordered CPAC, 280 strength, with an additive, seems I didn't get what I ordered and paid for. One of the guys working on the pool can fairly easily bang in concrete nail in the slab, where as other slabs he has worked on, the nails bend (I know it does depend also on how you hit the nail). So, for me, over engineering was probably good.

I know Naam agrees, and he's only ever been wrong once. [emoji38]

[emoji21]

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-J700F using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/25/2017 at 5:42 PM, weegee said:

Hey Sipi...6 x 2.5 Fibreglass lap pool....1.4 deep all the way.....fully installed under 250k baht. There are a few different sizes to choose from...moulded steps, pump, filter, piping, Vacuum, etc etc....jobs done.. only way to go.

6m laps? :unsure:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, carlyai said:

My pool slab is 40 cm thick and 2 lots of 12 mm rebar. One would think, over the top. The walls are 25 cm thick with 2 layers of 12 mm rebar as well.

Your specs are similar to mine, however I know pools who thought they could get away with much less, then again I know plenty of pools that need to have the water tab slightly open 24 hours a day, or that have cracked or lose coming tiles.

 

3 hours ago, carlyai said:

One of the guys working on the pool can fairly easily bang in concrete nail in the slab, where as other slabs he has worked on, the nails bend (I know it does depend also on how you hit the nail).

 

 

How long ago your slab was poured? It takes at least a month for concrete to cure, but actually it cures indefinitely.

 

If your concrete mix had much water, which is often used for pool bases because it needs less vibrating which is not easily done on a large flat surface , it may take longer before it has cured to the point that a nail bend.

 

 

 

Edited by janclaes47
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did concider chatting to the lad that does all the paths and ponds and fountains and things at the local temple (wifes cousins sisters second-husband's brother).

I am sure he and his mates could knock something up.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 
How long ago your slab was poured? It takes at least a month for concrete to cure, but actually it cures indefinitely.
 
If your concrete mix had much water, which is often used for pool bases because it needs less vibrating which is not easily done on a large flat surface , it may take longer before it has cured to the point that a nail bend.
 
 
 

Thanks for that comment.
Bringing happiness to Carlyai in Thailand. [emoji2]

Sent from my SM-J700F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, carlyai said:

I know one of my advisors has over engineered his pool more than me.
So at the end of the day, you have to make a decision between say 1 layer of rebar, or 2 layers, at 10 mm thickness or 12 or 16 mm, with a slab of 25 cm or 30 or 40 cm and walls between 15 cm and 30 cm, so you would tend to over spec. than under spec.  I think it also depends on your budget.

 

This has the potential of developing into a great story, like a 1970's disaster movie (eg: Towering Inferno), where, in a futile attempt to come in under budget you under-sized all your ordered materials, and the compounding failures lead to    ....no, wait. I'm sorry, already in Thailand.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pretty sure the OP wanted a lap pool which to me should be at least 15m long so inflatables & fibreglass do not fall into this category. BTW if using concrete blocks make sure you have a good waterproof membrane on both sides plus the bottom as the blocks tend to be quite porous.

To those who feel some pools are over engineered consider that there is tremendous weight on the sub soil & various factors can cause further subsidence. During the 2004 tsunami earthquake a client told us the whole pool appeared to be vibrating (it was built half in & half out of the ground) & afterwards discovered he was losing water. It turned out one of the lines running from pool to pump room had cracked which was easily repaired. It was good to see the pool structure remained intact.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

sipi stick to your idea of a slab, the cheap thai building blocks.... wang some rebar in fill the blocks up with some of that cement stuff then give it a double render mixed 2 to 1 then tile it should cost around 15000 and last between 10 to 15 years, after that you will probably be dead as you will have just saved yourself hundreds of thousands of thai baht that will enable you to go down to weegee's with mr transam and get pissed for the rest of your lives.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Carlyai, what you doing with all that box section when your done?

Hi, sorry late reply.

Hired the metal frame bits, and cut down the Euka from the farm. Left over wood for the Isaan kitchen fire, steel for the pool roof cover.

Sent from my SM-J700F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.



×
×
  • Create New...