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Adding an inner wall of AAC block to a red brick house


cangolfbuilder

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Hi I built a 3 bedroom 3 bathroom house about 8 years ago. I should say that my wife built it. I was away working at the time. Very nice home but everything was built the Thai village way. Red brick walls, wooden framed windows and no insulating foil above the ceiling. With myself away working a lot it ended up that I had never spent a thai summer here until last year. Above 40C for almost 2

 

months with high humidity if you recall. My home was like a pizza oven.  My boys are getting bigger now so I am going to add an addition to the back of the home. While I am  doing this I plan to renovate the rest of the home. Insulate the attic space, Change out all the windows to UPVC, and maybe add another inner skin of Q-con aac blocks to all the outer walls. Has anyone done this before

 

and if so did it make a major difference?

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I am currently building my house I have metal framing inside the block wall with insolation and sheet rock / plaster board it is a quick easy and you have a smooth finish also I have trimmed windows and doors with window boards/ sills something Thai people have never seen


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I would think about  what Builder mentioned above,

you can easily metal frame all exterior walls in the inside. Very easy to do, you can even do it yourself one room at the time.

So metal stud frame  on the inside of the exterior wall, easy to move electrical outlets  to metal frame wall. Insulate with fiberglass insulation, drywall with mold resistant drywall,  also insulate, attic floor,/ room ceiling.

it will make for a much cooler house.

PM me for further explanation.

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I will agree with two above that "dry lining" is by far the best and least messy option.

I am doing something similar myself with an old wooden house. I have used traditional 2x1 steel and framed out all the walls and then stuffed a 3 inch mineral fibre insulation behind.

I will be plasterboarding and/or teak cladding mine internally but i can tell you its so quick and nothing apart from a sweep up as regards mess.

 

I wouldnt want to retro fit q cons, yes they are easy but unless you intend to gut the place because to render the walls you have get everything out then think about it..you will be replacing a lot more than just the walls...you will need further accommodation aswell.

 

Lining out the existing you can simply re fix your electrics in almost the same position and you only need to lose 50/75mm of floor space.  blocks will lose you a lot more.

 

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I am currently building my house I have metal framing inside the block wall with insolation and sheet rock / plaster board it is a quick easy and you have a smooth finish also I have trimmed windows and doors with window boards/ sills something Thai people have never seen


Sent from my iPhone using Thaivisa Connect


Interesting! Do you have any picture of your concept? I also would like to see your trimmed doors and windows with window boards.
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Very nice work Builder!

In My US Florida Home, the walls are block, , instead of framing an other wall, they put metal furring strips 

fef76044-cd30-4522-8ff1-a407367fc976_1.d

Nailed directly on the block . then  the cavity was filled with insulating board that has foil in one side 

Related image

 

even easier than framing and amazingly fast

 

 

 

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31 minutes ago, builder said:

Yes furring channel will work if the walls are plum and square if not you will have to shim I recommend a top and bottom track and braced to the masonry


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Yes indeed, , in my NY home , when I did the basement, where the wall were not smooth and I was also worried about dampness. I used the top and bottom channel method  that I filled in with metal studs . Half way up  I braised   the metal frame wall  against the basement wall with a bracket I made from a  piece of  metal stud scrap

It made for a very solid wall

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2 hours ago, sirineou said:

Very nice work Builder!

In My US Florida Home, the walls are block, , instead of framing an other wall, they put metal furring strips 

fef76044-cd30-4522-8ff1-a407367fc976_1.d

Nailed directly on the block . then  the cavity was filled with insulating board that has foil in one side 

Related image

 

even easier than framing and amazingly fast

 

 

 

that metal channel is actually a sheeting rail and used as a tiling batten on roofs here.

metal stud channels for framing are actually akin to c channels.

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that metal channel is actually a sheeting rail and used as a tiling batten on roofs here.
metal stud channels for framing are actually akin to c channels.

I know that but looks like a regular furring Chanel or Chicago bar as called in ny , I have framed all my walls with 3 inch stud it was not always what I wanted but all I could find it is very light gadge to the point if you press on the wall it will make a didgeridoo sound to avoid this I would recommend double rock


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2 hours ago, builder said:

Did you have a structural defect in order to use steel


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Termites have eaten half the wallplate and some of the purlins. I underestimated what they can do in 3years.

The roof has dropped an inch on a hip and i was unable to jack it up. Every steel stud now directly supports one rafter just in case any futher infestation occcurs

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  • 3 weeks later...

Depending on how you house is built I would Q block the outside & tie them into the existing wall

This would make it much easier having not to worry about all the inside fittings & ect

Also you retain the the floor space - no need for insulation as the blocks will do there job

A win/win situation as your inside life wont be interupted & the mess will stay outside

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