Crossy

This is only true if you are exporting the TNC-S(MEN) ground. I suspect that our OP may have his pump on a "TT island" with a 2-core cable (possibly 3-core if the pump capacitor is in the control box) and a local rod. Whilst I understand this is not permitted under Aus regs, we are not in Aus. TT islands are common practice for outbuildings in the UK and, provided they are protected by an RCD/RCBO at the source, are deemed safe. @PJHassselt Is the pump suspension wire also connected to the local rod? As to why you are getting the electrical leakage. It could be a weepy cable seal at the pump or maybe a joint in the cable down the hole. Either of which will require the pump to be pulled and the attention of the brand service centre sought.

@advancebooking if you post some photos of what you have we could suggest how to make it safe. Thai "temporary" power is rarely safe in the Western sense of the word.

It would not be safe!!! Go and buy a roll of 1.5mm2 flexible cable and put a plug on one end and a traily outlet on the other. Make a loooong extension cord. Supporting the cable off the ground out of the wet would be a smart move. Plug/socket joins are not intended to be out in the weather unless specifically designed for it. How long would this temporary arrangement be in use for?

I've not actually done any measurements of consumption but: - Our double gates have 2 x 300W actuators (we have heavy swing gates). A full open the close cycle takes about 60 seconds (30 each way) - this I did measure. So, one open close cycle uses up to 2 x 300 x 60/3600 watt hours. About 10 Watt hours or 0.010kWh At 5 Baht a unit that's about 0.05 Baht per open/close cycle. So, to achieve 1000 Baht per month that would need the gates to operate about 666 times per day!! There are only 1,440 minutes per day, if they need to operate that often you might as well leave them open. ** This assumes I've done my sums correctly of course. No warranty implied or inferred. ** I'm also assuming that the idle power of the controller is negligeable compared with the operating power of the gate actuators.

Sounds like a dry bearing to me. Still under warranty??

But would you actually admit to being either??? Case proven m'lud. Burn the witch!!

I'm not a great lover of the "universal" outlets anyway. The interesting shape of the contacts combined with the "monkey-metal" they're often made from ensures that, particularly after UK plug has been used, the contact can be somewhat iffy. If you really need to use UK plugs order a pukka 13A one from Malaysia or Singapore, or do as we did, and get the family to bring one with them, stick a Thai plug on it and you're gold. Using an actual UK strip also mitigates any polarity issues.

I reckon someone could do with a poke in the groyne

Rule #2: Make sure that your backup will actually restore! There's only one thing worse than having no backup, and that's having a backup that won't restore (ask me how I know)

You will need to replace the main switch with a suitably rated 2-pole MCB for over-current protection, Thailand has no DNO fuses. You could then put that switch in a small DIN box and use it as an isolator. You need to wire MEN as per the Thai requirements routing the incoming neutral via the earth bar, so your MEN link actually needs to be the same size as your incoming cables. I've never seen a Thai domestic sparks with a megger, they do tend to rely on the "bang-test" (if it doesn't go bang, all is good). Look at the routing of the incoming neutral: -

So, you've signed all the necessary agreements etc? Or do you mean you have an electronic meter that records export but you have no agreement in place? Which is effectively the same as not having an export meter. It may still take months to sort out all the paperwork and inspections 😞 With no agreement all bets are off as to what PEA do. But as with all things Thai it's up2u. EDIT I would have a word with your contractor to see exactly what they've signed you up for, simply "registering" your solar isn't that same as getting on the feed-in tariff.

It's been reported at least once on this forum. Until you get your export meter I would avoid exporting anything.

The English country pub, the main reason the English own dogs! As if we really need an excuse

A post which contravenes Aseannow Community Standards has been removed.

Wouldn't that make it an off-grid hybrid then, just spend less money 🙂 The issue affects the hybrids that synchronise the output to the grid (so called on/off grid hybrids) so that the grid can seamlessly provide any shortfall from the solar, like a grid tie would. The problem occurs when a large load goes off, the electronics doesn't react fast enough and a short burst of export occurs. A disc meter probably wouldn't notice at all but the electronic meters can and do. Note that I understand that @MJCM actually had a constant, although small, export (meter was actually moving visibly) even when the inverter said zero. Fixed with a small constant load (fan).

Yeah, Ghost Export is a known problem with electronic meters and one solution is to go off-grid, only going on-grid when the solar is dead. Some inverters allow you to set a minimum grid draw of a few watts which should offset any ghost. Members on another, US-centric, solar forum are noting that their electronic meters are actually saying "error" in the event of even a tiny ghost (along with threats to remove the meter).

From a later post it would appear to be the Netherlands.

Even if he was grid-tie (he's not, the ATS handles that), every domestic level grid-tie inverter has island-protection to prevent it back-feeding into a dead grid. It's an absolute requirement. Note that exporting energy to a live grid (no hazard) is not the same as back-feeding to a dead grid (potential hazard to linemen). If your inverter is on the "approved" list rest assured that, assuming it is correctly installed, it will never back-feed into a dead grid.