Crossy

I think you are mis-reading the diagram, not helped by the labelling. I cap MUST end up in series with one of the windings or things definitely won't run. Now go away and take the photos I asked for (original pump diagram) ???? Have you made it run with the old controller yet??

I'm in the same process, but being a lazy <insert suitable expletive> ... I'm using KeyVisa. Darren acknowledged my payment on 5 July, today (13 July) I got notice from VFS that they have forwarded my application to the UK. It remains to be seen how long the process takes. As an aside I applied to renew my UK driving licence on Wednesday last week (using my existing PP number so no need for a new photo), paid my 14 squid using my UK credit card. The new licence arrived at my (ok, my parent's) UK address on Saturday! I have no idea why it was so quick, some of my UK friends have been waiting months.

Have you made it work as originally wired??? I think that has to be task A. Have you verified continuity of the two motor windings to the common?? I assume the pump is till down the well so "doesn't work" means it's not pumping. swapping the two windings by accident would make the pump run backwards so, of course, it won't pump. Can you do a clearer shot of the existing diagram, we can then tell you what to put where for correct operation with the new controller.

Yeah I see that now, my eyes are not good enough to read the wire labelling. As noted, get it going with the old controller first. If it still won't go, it's time to get the meter out and check the winding continuity. L and one winding go to one end of the cap, the other winding goes to the other end of the cap then both free ends of windings go to N. Although I note that the original drawing has the cap on the neutral side, shouldn't matter.

Start caps are in series with the relevant winding as shown in your first diagram. I doubt you've fried the pump you should re-check the wiring of the original box and get it working with that first. How did you connect your pump to the new controller?

Ours just sprang a ruddy leak so it's dribbling all over the kichen floor, it evidently heard us talking about it. Madam put a towel under it and I ordered a replacement - https://www.lazada.co.th/products/i1508658372-s3987020350.html

Lazada has a very effective return system (even with my empty package, eventually). Take photos of what you received. As above it never hurts to video you opening the package. Click on "Return" on your order. Follow the instructions.

He hadn't posted in about 12 months but he still visited regularly. RIP Mobi, a ThaiVisa legend! ????

The problem is that the "concession lamp" on top of the gate lights up and the guards are on the lookout for illegal users of concession (not just elder) cards. My BTS staff pass puts on the light too and I've been pulled a couple of times "farang cannot have" until I show them the card then it's all smiles, salute and "sorry, sorry". By the way, the fine is 10 x the maximum fare and the card is confiscated with no refund of any remaining value. Not really worth the risk.

60, and yes, for the BTS you have to be Thai. The MRT however just requires you to be 60 to get an "elder" card for 50% discount on the fare.

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Airport only I'm afraid.

Do NOT, that's NOT, use a separate ground for your heater when there is a properly configured grounding system in place! What you have sounds just fine. If you really want the technical reasons I'll go into them.

5-7psi it is then ????

Note:- A quick peruse of various on-line sources shows them quoting a pre-charge of 10psi or so which seems low to me. Too much pre-charge will limit the amount of water your tank can hold, same problem as no pre-charge. Nothing to stop you letting some air out if you find you are getting too little water. Obviously if your tank has a label, follow it.

Yeah, looks like your tank has lost pressure. Does it have a label with the pre-charge pressure? If not try 40psi (nip it down to the garage to pump up).