Crossy

It was a long time ago, 1950's early 60s, if they did fall off the beast would pause whilst they climbed back on for a rather damp school day. They would all be hopping on a motocy now, probably more hazardous ????

OK, all MCBs off, remove the link between the RCD N out and the N bar immediately above, this should isolate the RCD completely - still trip? If it does I think you have a defective unit, which bit did you replace?? If it's ok try with earths off and neutrals off connecting one N at a time until it trips. Dumb question, is the "Test" button stuck?? EDIT Whilst all the neutrals are off the N bar check that it is isolated from the box.

Long, long ago my wife went to a school that was on the "wrong" side of a river, it was about a 1km walk to the nearest bridge. If she had been very good she and her sister were allowed to ride the water buffalo across the river standing barefoot on its back. Send the buffalo home once at school. Reverse the procedure to go home, buffalo was sent over to collect them. Of course she's told my English grand-daughters about this, they have informed us that they've done elephants last time they were here, they want to do water buffaloes next time!

In reality it's a non-issue, modern equipment is polarity insensitive (if you have a 1960's TV which is "live chassis"** it's a different matter). It should however be fixed, easy DIY if you have a screwdriver ???? ** A lot of early TVs and wirelesses had no mains transformer. One pole of the supply (the neutral) was connected directly to the chassis, the other (live) went through a meaty dropper resistor before supplying all the valve heaters (in series) and being rectified to provide the valve HT. Obviously reversing the supply on one of these could get "interesting".

Why did I read this as "no more than 5 on a motorcycle"???

Are they sick ones??

Around 25kg a piece. MegaHome have some even bigger ones, gave me a hernia just looking at them!!

Right now prices seem to be sliding downwards after a peak at the end of last year. I think I'd wait unless I was installing immediately. EDIT https://globalhouse.co.th/product/detail/2014234503503 Jinyuan 340W poly panels 3,750 Baht a pop, seems to be plentry of stock. OR https://globalhouse.co.th/product/detail/2103200552946 Trina 445W mono at 5,390 Baht each, rather limited stock.

Yup ^^^ if you get a "domestic" contactor they are the same form-factor as DIN mount breakers, handy and neat mounting in a DIN box. https://www.lazada.co.th/products/ac-240v-25a-2-reed-ac-contactor-2p-closed-domestic-35-mm-din-rail-i3698218298-s13991069206.html

Most if not all inverter A/Cs have a "minimum cooling rate" below which the compressor (and the outside fan) does actually shut down. This is probably what you are seeing. The min and max cooling capacities should be in the manual, time to open the plastic bag

Get yourself one of these chaps https://www.lazada.co.th/products/habotest-ht107t-plus-ht107b-socket-tester-thunelectric-i2557036299-s9098364095.html?

I find it very difficult to believe that a long term member with over 2k posts is unaware of the yellow tabien baan (house book for foreigners) and the pink "foreigner" ID card.

One assumes the tripod bush on the camera is electrically connected to the bit that's doing the shocking.

Tripping with all the branch MCBs off? Look for a N-E fault, damp or bugs in an outlet somewhere possibly. You could start by disconnecting all the neutrals from your neutral bar (all breakers off) then connect them one at a time until you get a trip. Then investigate that circuit. If it still trips with all the neutrals isolated then time to start posting photos of the distribution board wiring. I'm assuming there have been no recent wiring changes of course.

The old adage is "Volts Jolts, Mills Kills", as Steve notes above 1mA is around the threshold of perception (but people vary significantly, I can certainly feel around half that), anything over 5mA or so and you will know all about it!! You could try measuring the leakage current to ground by measuring the voltage across, say 10kohm resistor between ground and the power supply output (your meter is unlikely to be able to measure AC currents this small so we have to convert them into a voltage and then use Mr Ohm's law V/R=I). With small shocks it's not actually the shock that does the damage, it's the involuntary reaction to the tingle, drop the screwdriver, fall off the ladder etc. Adding a ground to the camera certainly won't hurt (if it has RCA connectors the shield makes a good access point to the metalwork). Beware of earth loops introducing hum on the audio if you have wired connections into the studio kit (although those ought to stop the tingle by themselves if the studio is properly grounded).

Any indication where it came from? Maybe they still have that valve.

I'm sure a man of your calibre could fabricate a handle extension ????

Yup, Lazada is your friend ^^^. Most pool supply places should have them too. Note that they come in a number of flavours dependant upon just which ports they switch and how they switch them, check you are ordering one that does what you want it to do ???? EDIT The one on Madam's koi filter can block any of the three ports or leave all three open together.

In reality I think we are looking at a "design fact". We have three units which behave in the same way - Unlikely to be a faulty unit. They appear to do the same in a number of locations - Not likely to be a wiring issue. The units are intended to be used 2-wire, so no missing ground. The leakage is very, very small and likely only noticeable in bare feet on a conductive floor. I can just feel the "shock" from my neon screwdriver if I'm downstairs on our tiled concrete floor, it barely manages to light upstairs on the wooden floor or if I wear my ancient sandals. As a "solution" it's the slippers or a less conductive floor covering I'm afraid.

A couple of friends have received emails purportedly from Wise:- All the hallmarks of a fake, not personally addressed, embedded link, etc. etc. the "Login" link goes to "wIseuk" (yes, that's a lower case L). Despite all the warnings people still follow these links and get screwed, so another warning can never hurt.

Sadly no, we're down in BKK, a bit far to come. Try a post in the Chiang Mai forum with a link to this thread, there could be someone who knows a competent sparks, or you could try your local PEA office, the chaps often like a bit of moonlight ????

Thanks ^^^, and the plug at the adaptor end is also 2-pin? It's possible that the adaptor has gone leaky internally for which the solution is a replacement ???? Can you beg or borrow another to try? EDIT Is this occuring in the building in your other thread with the apparently excessive current in the N-E link? Is it the same elsewhere?

You definitely seem to have significant diverted neutral current heading off down your ground IF it is wired as the diagram (I admit I'm still not convinced) you have a problem that needs looking at.

Can you post a photo of the adaptor please, particularly the mains connectors. It is odd that a pukka Sony adaptor is giving tingles.