Crossy

Looks like time for a bigger BMS then ???? Or just ensure you don't go over the max discharge current it's set to.

Which inverter do you have, is the manual online?

You should be able to tell the inverter what it's max discharge / charge rate is, set it a bit lower than the BMS then it "should" top up from the grid.

No!

When the Soviet Union invaded Afghanistan, some gas stations in Toronto refused to gas Ladas. 1980s. Will history repeat?

Remember what happened to the Martians in Mars Attacks!!

"Anutin latest: We are completely in control of Covid - even if things turn into an emergency" Translation:- "Anutin latest: It's getting away from us - prepare for lockdown!"

There are "accurate" sizing programs, feed in 1,000 variables and it will select the "correct" size of A/C. You then get to pick one from a range of maybe 4 or 5 cooling capacities. Thing is, so long as it's not massively over (yes, you can over size an A/C although it's less of an issue with inverters) or under sized, the thermostat will even out the bumps and all will be good. The Thai guesstimate comes from loads of local experience, as noted it does tend to over-size somewhat for what we feel comfortable at, but we have to keep those penguins happy.

Yeah, we run similar temperatures, anything cooler than 26C is just too cold! (been here too long evidently). We recently replaced the aging 18,000 BTU conventional unit in our bedroom with a 12,000 BTU inverter. The installer was worried it was too small, but was happy when I said we ran at 26C. We are gradually replacing the conventional units with inverters, mainly because they soft-start and don't stress our power generation system. What I have noticed is that they don't have that "instant gratification" arctic blast on starting (that might be why some people think they are not cooling as expected) but leave them alone to get on with the job and they really do cool just as fast.

It certainly wouldn't hurt for our OP to "suck it and see" with his existing unit. But it depends upon what is defined as "adequately cool", he may keep penguins as pets ????

Ok. The standard Thai guesstimate for A/C is 600-700 BTU/m2 this actually over-sizes a bit but it's a good starting point. So you 60m2 room is going to need about 36,000 to 42,000 BTU, it's well insulated / low gain so the lower end should be just fine. So you need to add about 17,000 BTU. Another similar sized unit to your existing one at the other end of the room should be a good fit. I'd certainly go inverter for your new unit.

I doubt trying a DC adaptor would do any harm, the internals are almost certainly DC anyway and there's an internal rectifier etc. I had an old router that used an AC output adaptor, this did NOT work with a DC supply, but no damage was caused. If you have a modified unit that's producing 14V AC at some indeterminate frequency give it a try, I doubt any actual harm will come to the beast.

99% of the adaptors like this are DC output (like the one in your image), DC does not have a "frequency". The lumpy units like you have for your pedal are a simple iron transformer (hence the weight) frequency out = frequency in (50Hz here). The reason that the modern units are so light is that they have high frequency transformers (and the associated electronics to allow their use) which are much lighter than the lumps of iron. They are invariably DC output. The light ones that are actually AC output are not 50Hz (and as I said are usually intended to drive halogen lamps [not LEDs]). You are not going to find a 14V AC power supply which is both light and 50Hz output. You will likely be able to find a 50Hz one that is heavy, but at least you won't need to lug the 100V converter around too. Just get the right transformer for your pedal from the manufacturer, far easier and safer.

I've hidden a link to a "transformerless" power supply. Bloody lethal Provides DC anyway Anyway, our OP is going to hit many issues. It's correct that the existing unit has a nice, heavy, iron cored transformer. You should be able to get a 220V => 500mA 12V transformer (conventional type) which would reduce the weight that needs moving around. The lightweight AC units (usually intended to drive halogen lamps) produce high-frequency AC. Now of course the works inside the pedal are optimised for 50/60Hz AC and may or may not work on the several kHz that comes from these adaptors. The pedal may in fact work OK on a DC supply. The only way to be sure is the examine the circuit. I'd be tempted to try it on 12V DC, if it works, great.

If you close the error window (X top right) you can move on. At this page https://tp.consular.go.th/en/plan you can select AQ (rightmost box) where all the requirements for the unvaxxed are listed.

Yours seems to be a later unit which doesn't have "Direct" or "Bypass" ???? So if it doesn't trip on the "Test" button it's likely busted ???? It's possible it has been completely bypassed by an unscrupulous installer, can you post a photo with the lid off??

Yours do it too? I thought it was just me! My youngest, who does ultra-precision measurements for a UK defence contractor, would kill me (very slowly) for saying that!

I post full month generation figures in the Solar Car-Port thread at the end of each calendar month I can add the PEA numbers too if it's useful ???? I have numbers going back to March 2020 (and before but sporadic as I was just getting the logging working). live data here https://thingspeak.com/channels/991448 If anyone is that interested feeds (1).csv only 77MB! That's data every 60 seconds (I do have 1 second data but it's a bit big). Sadly I didn't store weather data ???? The PV capacity has increased over the period covered, let me know and I'll post the dates and capacity changes.

Just out of interest, we have just over 10kWP on the car port, so far in February we have:- From Solar 504kWh From PEA 213kWh Since 18th Feb (when the meter reader came) we have:- From solar 155kWh From PEA 5.3kWh The weather has been good to us for the last 4 days, I don't expect it to last ????

Yeah, the 340W panels I got for 2,890 in November are now 3,590, same supplier ???? Everybody is, of course, blaming covid!

I have seen that on my phone when the .apk was damaged, so maybe try a different source? APKPure has worked well for me in the past to get those "not available" apps.

You made the same mistake as I did, assuming an Android TV would be like a giant smartphone. https://www.businessinsider.in/tech/how-to/how-to-sideload-apps-on-android-tv/articleshow/87100257.cms

I still suspect you are under-loading it, but there's something odd going on in your ceiling.