Crossy

Idahoan:- INGREDIENTS: Potatoes, Vegetable Oil (coconut, sunflower, soybean), Maltodextrin, Dried Corn Syrup, Salt, Sugar, Nonfat Dry Milk, Butter (Cream, Salt), Mono- and Diglycerides, Calcium Stearoyl Lactylate, Natural Flavors. Smash:- INGREDIENTS: Dehydrated Potato (98%), Salt, Emulsifier (Mono- and Diglycerides of Fatty Acids), Stabiliser (Diphosphates), Antioxidants (Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Bisulphite (Sulphites)), Colour (Curcumin), Flavouring.

You need to get 4-pole arrestors then 🙂

20kA is at the low end of what would be considered as "adequate" for a main suppression device, I also believe that the Schneider units only protect L-E rather than L and N to E (I may be wrong here mind). Of course, they are far better than nothing. I would consider adding an 80-100kA 2-pole unit next to your incoming supply (assuming you are single-phase) give it a nice straight, meaty, earth to its own rod if your main rod isn't reasonably accessible. Also, if you have remote buildings, I would add similar 2-pole units at the building incoming locations. You don't have to spend a fortune, there are many suitable units from China in the 500-1000Baht region which won't break the bank. We were also losing LED fixtures more often than I liked, so each one now has a little 6kA beastie in the fitting. They are cheap but do ensure that they can't set anything on fire if they fail!!!! I got a bag of these chaps from NPE ages ago https://www.bourns.com/docs/product-datasheets/mov20d.pdf

Even the best surge protection isn't an absolute guarantee, particularly for a very close strike. What is the kA rating of your surge protectors? Do verify that the "failed" flag isn't showing. You may want to add some of the small, round, surge devices to your LED lights, they are really cheap but do ensure that they're not near anything flammable.

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We have an ATS to switch the whole system to grid in the event of inverter failure. We maintain the grid to inverter connection to allow the grid to top-up should the solar/battery be insufficient (which is how the Deye hybrids work). It makes the whole system "wife-proof" (fully automagic) if I'm away and something goes pear-shaped.

No new meter, yet. But in preparation for getting one (OK I had some $$$) we upgraded our storage to be larger than our daily usage so we are effectively running off-grid. The meter creeps about 1kWh per day due to the "no-export" on the inverter having a small draw (adjustable) to ensure the meter never actually goes backwards.

The Deye CTs are horribly inaccurate. You can improve that accuracy by using an external meter, but there are only a few that work with the Deye (check your manual), doing this certainly improves the zero-export accuracy. This meter (not cheap) definitely works with the Deye https://www.lazada.co.th/products/i4470648921-s18041805611.html? We also have a number of Hiking DS238-2 energy meters monitoring various stuff. These have RS-485 for remote reading, sadly they don't talk to the inverters. In reality, the only meter that actually matters is the PEA one, the others are purely an estimate unless they are calibrated and certified.

Numbers for October. We are actually "wasting" a lot of our potential generation because the batteries are usually full by 1pm and we don't export.

@GammaGlobulin try Dark Mode now 🙂

If you click on the "Customizer" to the left of the moon thingy you can choose from a limited selection of alternative backgrounds. "Blues" might suit.

"Transportation" to the UK

They may be worried about people buying cheap-rate energy using a TOU meter then selling it back as peak rate during the day. I'm not convinced that would be remotely profitable but ... We're just running off-grid, no hassles from PEA.

Yeah, 2P8S (24V 12Ah) for grand-daughter's e-scooter to replace the dead gel batteries using an 8S 40A BMS from the same seller.. Works nicely.

Yeah, I'd forgotten that Visa Exempt is 60 days now, so no real point getting the re-entry anyway.

@DrJack54 is this correct??