Lickey

So im waiting for you to explain how the cracks appeared, dont tell me it was power stress, thats daft!!

And then explain to readers why the box was difficult to remove,,

Twin plate clutches in a drag racer, i seem to remember you telling me theres a lot of difference between a comercial auto trans and a car trans, really? and when you posted anybody have probs with auto trans, no replies, not even boiling brake fluid or warped discs or overheating leaving in drive at the lights ect,

When you can read the lines rather than in-between them, you might learn something,

Perhaps Cocnuts Toyota will start another world record breaking re-call, would i have a Toyota,? No way!!

Check the oil level, also if it has gone milky, change it,

Yes, i can see very well where the cracks start,,, that is what they do, pull the box back a little, shake it like hell, this cracks the cover, hence they sell you a new plate,,

And I said IF it was MY truck, i would put the plate back in !!!!!!!! up to others what they would do,

The pilot/spigot bearing is in the photo, whats that supposed to mean?? has it been checked for roughness?

Coconuts pics are very clear, all the cush-drive springs are intact, the center drive is clean, if the cush drive relied on the cover plate, surely the cracks would be more open and show signs of chaffing ect?but no signs atall, as Coconut suggested, he wondered if the cracking was caused by the ecessive shaking and the use of crowbars caused the cracks, in my mind, Yes!! All that cover does is cover the levers that operate the cush drive, it wiill be fine without this cover, its there to keep the dust out ect..

If you are having problems reading and understanding technical posts, then just stick to V8 drag racing,

Thankyou..

A few more thoughts have just sprung to mind, now if the spigot shaft and clutch centre was rusted, [in your pics it wasnt] they should release all bolts 1 turn, then press the clutch pedal, this pushes the box away from the clutch, another question, were they using a transmission jack or man handling the box?

Another thing i would be concerned about is the use of crow bars, these will cause indents on the alloy flywheel housing and the bell housing of the clutch, did they clean of these indentations ? if not, the gearbox might shake loose in a week or so, get the bolts re-torqued soon.

Just an engineers point of view, Lickey..

Coconut, are those pics without cleaning the plate of after? if without cleaning, then the cracks would show some kind of dust on them, by the way, all these plales do is cover the cush drive, and should not be subject to tourque atall, The inner spline transmits torque via levers to the cush drive springs, so i think your suspicions are right, it has been known that quik fit centers in the UK remoce all bolts and just loosen a couple, thus having to shake the gearbox violently and cracking that cover plate,

Like i said before, heel and toe it, if the engine stops in0.5 sec, there is nothing wrong with the clutch, they do this out of your view, but they have to find something to show you and make money.

Do you have the spigot/input shaft bearing with you? if so, you can pry off the seals, clean with diesel or petrol, and inspect the inner surfaces, any pitting atall would point to a noise.

If it were my truck, i would want the friction plate put back in, even with the cracks, looks like another 50,000ks wear left in it..

Cheers, Lickey..

Boyce, dont know if you got any PMs to help you, but what we did was buy some bread from a falang supplier in Udon, took it to the local bakery, they tasted it, and said yes, we can do!! burger buns were under half the price of the Udon supplier, plus they had sesame seeds on, she also makes us loaves [crusty top] for 25 bht, so worth a try mate,

Cheers, Lickey..

Thanks v ery much Wolf, i will send a link to this site to my mate, I have an idea he might change his mind, as his dog is already 8 years old,

Cheers, Lickey..

Thanks Wolf, im not sure if my mate has an agent acting for him, seems a bit costly?

My good candian friend is coming here to Thai to live, and he is importing his dog, so when he gets of the plane, whats the next step to find his dog, is there Import section, is it posted on the signs ect?

Thanks for any help,

Lickey..

Which i have already mentioned about low fuel life and clogged jets,

For instance, if im not going to use my XJR 1200 Yamaha for 2 weeks, i drain the carbs, otherwise [even though i use 95] the fuel coagulates and the engine runs weak and backfires a lot, The extra heat ruins the spark plugs, so spending 10 mins draining the carbs saves me 260bht and an hours work for 4 new plugs,

Dont know what you mean by that the pistons are carboned up, that the compression will be higher? if the piston is carboned [or sooted] it usually means the valve guides and seats are worn and the piston rings are worn as well, thus lowering compression, even a worn turbo charger thrusting oil mist into the engine will not cause cokeing,carboning,sooting, the only time ive seen this was with BMC cars when old people forgot to push the choke in,

As for the OP, a weak fuel mixture could be the problem, the petrol fuel here does have a low life before it clogs your carb jets, getting the carb/s cleaned out would be a good start..

No answer was the stern reply..

Well Lickey, the beauty of internet forum discussions, is that we all choose when and what to write or reply to

Pistons and valves can be sooted even on fairly new vehicles (20k km) due to much idling or low revs or clogged airfilter, and the valves and seats can still remain in good condition. This increases compression slightly and can demand higher octane to avoid pinging.

Solution, blow soot out by keeping the revs up for a couple of hours. Speedlimits may restrict this to be done in 2nd gear at 90kmh. Check oil when done as it can be very black and low.

Typical for a Scandinavian car with speed limits 110kmh, go to German Autobahn at +200kmh, initially exhaust is dark but within couple of hours exhaust is clean and often oil dark. Oil makers call it black slurge.

I will agree to disagree on this one, i would say that modern fuel injection systems petrol or diesel give a monitored amout of fuel according to engine speed, whether its working or ticking over, as an eg, in 2004 i was called out to a pumping station on the Fens in the UK, the engigine was makiking chuffing noises in the air filter, i found a tight inlet tappet, adjusted it and it sounded ok, boss said take the head off to be sure the valve is ok, so odered the gaskets ect and took the head off, no problems with the valves, now this engine is a Crossley flat 4, from 1933, it is left ticking over for 4 months of the year, about 90rpm, because they are such a bugger to start,, Max HP 380 at 620rpm, the piston was clean, ok, a little damp with unburnt fuel, but no soot or cokeing, not bad for 70+ years service, so if you have some pics of a 20.000k pick-up engine, coked up, will be glad to see them,

Thankyou, Lickey,,

Dont know if my mrs was doing the lending thing before i arriived on the scene?I dont want to ask her because its none of my buisness, im pretty sure she knows how i feel about this,

But again, its up to her, bad debtors, she will get to work on the farm or be a housemaid till the debt is paid off,

You posters with a money lending mrs, did she do this before you came along, or was it that she has a falang B/F husband who would bail her out??

Right, after a call by mrs to BIL, The single red cord means they have just finished at the police academy, like a passing out parade thing, after that, they dont have to wear them unless on special duties, Like riot or royal duties, and one star on the shoulder epulatet,

Seargeants will have 2 red cords and 2 stars,

BIL has 3 thicker red cords and 3 stars, which makes him a captain, and yes Scuba, you are right, the 1 cord BIB tend to hang their whistles on the cord,,

Cheers, Lickey.

Well, yes BIL is a police captain in Korat, so next time the mrs talks to him, she will ask, personally i think its riot police who wear this cord, somebody must have seen this in BKK, looks like some kind of garotting device to me, but will have a full answer soon..

As the guys say, put your foot down and the engine rattles, especially if your in too high a gear. Really bad fuel will pink every time you accelerate until your at your cruise speed.

If there is no difference in the sounds coming from under the hood then don't worry about the lower octane.

a US spec, as sold in LOS, 84 Nissan runs fine on 91, usually down to 89, so its going to be hard to spot any ping at all, unless the pistons are very sooted, thus increased compression

Top gear 1200rpm and full thottle, if it sounds like a diesel, have ignition timing adjusted. If it still sounds like a diesel, you need an octane booster additive.

Dont know what you mean by that the pistons are carboned up, that the compression will be higher? if the piston is carboned [or sooted] it usually means the valve guides and seats are worn and the piston rings are worn as well, thus lowering compression, even a worn turbo charger thrusting oil mist into the engine will not cause cokeing,carboning,sooting, the only time ive seen this was with BMC cars when old people forgot to push the choke in,

As for the OP, a weak fuel mixture could be the problem, the petrol fuel here does have a low life before it clogs your carb jets, getting the carb/s cleaned out would be a good start..

No answer was the stern reply..

Windy, the book will give you an impression of life in Thai, problem is all thai famlies differ, im not ashamed to say that i met my mrs on the net, her mums dying words were, find your self a falang, thai men cant be trusted,, i came here for 10 days, she never asked for money and looked after me very well, i done a bit of research about Thailand and read a lot of horror stories, mrs came to the UK for 6 months and she never missed home, well, at least she didnt tell me she did, so i sold up and now live here, now its 4 years 4 months,

It was a big commiment, leaving my grown up kids ,mum brothers ect,

You have made a good decision, rent some where for you both, dont agree to buy land or farm at short notice, i know a few falangs that have looked at Thailand throurgh rose tinted glasses and have lost everything, or will soon.

Of course dont be tight with money, take mum and dad out to dinner once a week or so, little things like that go a long way,

Cheers, Lickey..

My wife has accumulated a nice stack of Chanotes lending money. She give the people about 3 years to repay, and charges a part of the crop as interest.

I never pay too much attention to her business affairs.

When my mother-in-law needed a new roof, my wife asked me if I would pay...I told her when we went this summer I would. I asked her if she had any money in the bank in Thailand, or was it all loaned out...I about fell off my chair when she told me she had over 1 million baht in her bank. And she still has more rice that she has not sold yet.

We reached an agreement that I would give her the money for a roof, and she could put in her bank account here and have her mother take the money from her Thai bank account and do the roof now, before it starts to rain again. Better than me transferring money to Thailand.

We have been married for 15 years, and seem to work things out pretty well.

I have the same circumstance as Old Wanderer, I don't pay too much attention to the wheeling and dealing of the wife but she seems to own or has mortgages on half the village. She buys and sells cows, rice, lends money to relatives mostly and ALWAYS gets it back with interest. She doesn't deal with time as we do but somehow she keeps track of things and makes enough money to keep her happy and give some to her uncle and aunt. I learned a long time ago not to try and understand it and that works for me.

Exactly, let the thai better half get on with what they want to do,ive found its not apreciated when a falang trys to put his nose into their buisness, ive told my mrs, you can wheel and deal, but dont come running to me if it goes wrong, perhaps some lovelorn falangs will read these posts and understand Thailand a bit more,

As the guys say, put your foot down and the engine rattles, especially if your in too high a gear. Really bad fuel will pink every time you accelerate until your at your cruise speed.

If there is no difference in the sounds coming from under the hood then don't worry about the lower octane.

a US spec, as sold in LOS, 84 Nissan runs fine on 91, usually down to 89, so its going to be hard to spot any ping at all, unless the pistons are very sooted, thus increased compression

Top gear 1200rpm and full thottle, if it sounds like a diesel, have ignition timing adjusted. If it still sounds like a diesel, you need an octane booster additive.

Dont know what you mean by that the pistons are carboned up, that the compression will be higher? if the piston is carboned [or sooted] it usually means the valve guides and seats are worn and the piston rings are worn as well, thus lowering compression, even a worn turbo charger thrusting oil mist into the engine will not cause cokeing,carboning,sooting, the only time ive seen this was with BMC cars when old people forgot to push the choke in,

As for the OP, a weak fuel mixture could be the problem, the petrol fuel here does have a low life before it clogs your carb jets, getting the carb/s cleaned out would be a good start..

If electricy is available, a 2 hp single vane pump at about 3000bht should do the job, from what the OP descibes, his farm is hillside same as ours, if you maths men want to work it out, it rises 3in in 1 yard, and the pipeline is about 300 mtrs long, 2in blue plastic into 1in hose for sprinklers,

The system i used with the help of Chownah was a borehole pump pumping into a ground level water tank, and the 2in booster pump operated by a luke-loy floating valve that turned on the booster pump, or off when level sunk.

I think in your case, a 2hp pump with a flexible re-inforced hose with a good magaluf [thai name] valve fitted, and the first few meters allowing movement of the pump due to high/low water would suit your needs.

If you use the blue plastic pipe, give it coat of paint, any colour, it stops the sun baking it, making it brittle ect, also fit a one way valve a metre or so from the pump, the water in the pipe will keep it cooler.

Consider fitting a timer, night time watering is far more effective without the sun evaporating the water, about 2000bht from home pro,

Hi Windygale, yes,Lee bar is still going, on the bus station square, i dont go there very often as im not a football fan, Several other falangs will have gone home come end of January, but ill be here doing my life sentence,

I would think your mrs or her family will know the salon opposite the temple before the traffic lights as you come into Namsom from Ban Phu, if not PM me,and will pass on more detail, about food ect,,

Cheers, Lickey.

Scrapyard would be your best bet, a recent modern write-off will have all you need, all the connectors fitted, and a blade type fuse box, just strip what you need out of a wreck,,

Its been 11c early morning, 22c in the day and 19c at nights here, bit cold even for an englishman!! 100ks NW Udon Thani,,<BR><BR> What we do is light the BBQ, [clay pot type] let it get smoke free, and put it in the sitting room, brings the room up to 24c and a lot more comfortable, cheap as well, <BR> I do some toast for us for supper, other stuff might smoke and smel too much,<BR> Cheers, Lickey..

Since when is it bad to get money from farangs?

If you dont know now, you will soon learn if you live or visit Thailand,

One way to 'fix' squeaking brake pads is to have a bevel ground off the outer edge.. The squeal is very often a function of the outer edge either vibrating at high frequency and or sitting in a tiny ridge in the disc.

Not talking taking a lot off, just a couple of mm at a 45 degree angle.

I imagine its going to take some grinding too !!

I agree with Livinlos with this, if you front disc has a small lip on the outside and inside, [previous pad wear] then remove pads, use some sandpaper on the inner and outer edges of pads, just make a small champher, refit pads and all should be ok, High melting point grease would help also, applied to the back of the pad, between the pad and cylinder, Im not familiar with your model of bike, does it have sliding calipers or fixed 2/4 piston calipers? it could be that the sliding part has become dry and needs re-greasing,