sometimewoodworker

It is rather likely that your Canadian account is out of money. Just because you are trying to use a Canadian sim to make a call to Canada does not affect the fact that it is an international call. You are in Thailand so your Canadian call using a Canadian sim is using the Thai network so is an international call, this means that it is extremely likely that using your Canadian sim is very very expensive. If you are using a Thai sim to call another country you need international calling enabled. If you are using a foreign sim from Thailand to call another country you need international calling enabled from the foreign country the sim is from.

It is not just duty but VAT as well and the value is CIF so cost insurance freight and Thai customs determines the cost value and ignores your declaration value. if you aren’t hand carrying your wife may well be hit with a substantial bill.

Congratulations you are a 100% qualified Thai sparky 55555555 Never ever use (or allow anyone else to use) a yellow/green insulated wire for anything but an earth cable. From the picture you have no earth.

Unfortunately regulations have been quoted that are, as is often the case, drawn up and quoted without (it seems) much local knowledge. Thai regulations are drawn up knowing that local interpretation is usual so don’t believe that rules in one country are necessarily correct here. Things that can influence the earthing include but are not limited to bonding earth to the structural steel of you foundations installing the earth rod into permanently wet soil trying to hammer a 2.4 meter rod through earth then into a boulder that is 1 metre down The bonding the earth to your steel in the structure was a requirement that has recently been introduced (despite its discovery over 90 years ago) so retired ex electricians are quite likely to deride its use. This is despite it often being a far more effective and lower distance method than the rod banged into the earth.

This is a point to which you have been given several different options, if they are not acceptable please list the ones you don’t like/can’t do/can’t afford so that there is an opportunity to avoid those. Maybe others are available. So far I haven’t seen that any are being adopted/going to be implemented already in use.

Was what made me assume a rather less erudite education. Physics is a subject that has quite a few pitfalls for those who assume that an effect is of necessity caused by one thing when it’s really caused from something quite different.

I think you are vastly overestimating the scope of a PEA inspection. There is no similarity with an inspection in U.K., Europe, USA and one in Thailand. A PEA inspection is, in general, limited to the connection between their meter and your consumer unit, this usually includes checking that the CU breaker is the approved size and that the earth rod is actually not cosmetic but is real. However many inspections are an excuse for a chin wag and no actual inspection occurs. “you're not in Kansas anymore”

That is an extremely rough generalisation, the harder an LED is driven the hotter they get. There are LEDs that I have that can cause a rather nasty burn. Some of mine have cooling fans to reduce the burnout times. In general an LED can be under run and get just warm however the makers generally run them as hard as possible so they get toasty.

Your physics knowledge seems a little restricted. It’s the amount of heat needed to cause a phase change between liquid and gas. Yes water can transfer heat quite well as a liquid, but that is much less than the phase change heat transfer, something in the region of 1,500kJ/kg this number is not exact as the temperature at which vaporisation occurs is not at 100C

I have seen this system used in some places in Thailand though with continuous flow and on the roof. The disadvantage is that there is a need for maintenance, this is something that is often not done here.

The actual quote is Or in real money 5 degrees under ambient air temperature, so even better that my example above.

As long as you can get enough blokes and there is enough headroom (probably not much more than 2 meters) you can sink piles with no machine required. This is a well established Thai way

It would be ridiculously expensive, not to mention pointless, to buy a rebar grid. this is the genuine stuff what you need is lengths of deformed rebar of your choice, probably 9mm, the use the standard wire tie method or even welded crossings, though wire ties are standard. You will need rebar chairs to give the correct stand-off. I doubt that you actually want the stand-off shown as you are not actually designing the concrete for repeated 50 tonne loads.

Yes the paint is external for best results. I doubt that there is a commercial version that you can buy, but making it isn’t a significant challenge. The proof of concept is here my opinion on adding mass with tiles is that it’s likely to be a waste of money as you really don’t want more mass, unless of course you like to be kept toasty warm after the sun goes down. This is a reason why concrete walkways around a house are only good to keep mud down. Night storage heaters use concrete as a heat storage method.

The majority of your post is excellent, though plugging up the gaps is usually far from as easy as you suggest. However I saw an interesting experiment that took 3 panels of aluminium one untreated one with a commercial IR reflecting paint and the last coated with barium sulphate nano particles of 3 differing sizes. In full sun. The results were plain aluminium 20C above ambient air temperature, IR reflective paint 10C above ambient air temperature and the barium sulphate nano particle paint 3C under ambient air temperature So it is possible to make an inexpensive paint of barium sulphate and reduce the heat gain by a very substantial amount. you can have any colour you like as long as it’s white. Though the painting process is rather arduous as you need extremely thin coats of paint that (on a small surface) take about 20 minutes to get to the repaint stage and probably 30+ coats

Your empirical observation is absolutely correct. However you are missing some rather important facts of physics. And that it was the total rubbish being spouted about thermal breaks that I was addressing. Yes glass will heat up by radiation, yes there will be some heating by convection, nut NO there will be little heating of the glass by conduction from the hot frames the Physics of heat transfer is somewhat complex and it isn’t easy to determine, without instrumentation, the path of heat transfer

You need to use heat reflecting paint to stop the walls heating up as much

The idea about thermal breaks being required in hot countries is tosh. Thermal breaks are designed to stop the problems of condensation when you have a cold outside and warm humid inside. Yes the thermal breaks will reduce heat transfer but the idea that without them your windows are going to be radiating much heat is so much ball cocks This suggestion is an example of someone being totally lazy and misunderstanding basic physics.

Not just the windows you need to either build a second wall outside the hot ones or add insulation on them. Then for the windows use shutters outside or the bamboo blinds, again outside.

Batteries have a longer lifespan and function better at lower temperatures A led acid battery that is expected to last for 10 years at 25°C, will only last 5 years if it is operated at 33°C, and just a year and a half if kept at a temperature of 41°C.

See if anyone nearby is using them and you may be able to do a deal

And your point, x 2, is? specially as the post was in reply to a different poster!

Why? Is it because I can count to more than 4? ????

Coconut battery

Except that for iPhones it is trivially easy to find out.