Pib

As more and more ICEV drivers transition to EVs I sure hope they can handle the increased power/torque/speed of an EV. Probably going to be a lot more neck injuries caused by increased acceleration & G-forces...especially for females with their delicate necks. Of course some females can not experience neck injuries as they are pure demons which can rotate their heads 360 degrees. 😜 Maybe the government should require special driver license for EV drivers...a license that includes training in acceleration, G-forces, etc. Heck, I'm not sure, but I don't even think governments started requiring a driver license until the technology transition from horse & buggy to motorized vehicles" began over a 100 years ago. Maybe this technology transition period of ICEV to EV should require a new special license--and of course at a higher price to ensure a new source of tax revenue. 😁 P.S. Above is all sarcasm. 😉

From googling this it seems the pro Just doing the every 3-6 months discharge to at least 10% and then slow charging back 100% to recalibrate the SOC indicator and range guess-o-meter "as recommended by BYD (and even Tesla) for LFP traction batteries" is not the core case. It's either some software glitch or 12V battery problem. From googling I came across lots of folks who ran into this issue even when their high voltage traction battery was at a high level SOC. Some just came back to the car after being in the mall for a few hours and the Seal was dead/asleep. Some figured out it was caused by the 12V battery running down/entering sleep mode when the hood, door, etc., was left open for an extended time like overnight or a few days. But then others ruled out 12V battery drain as the problem but some software glitch telling the 12V battery to go night-night. As with a lot of car issues, there can be more than one cause of a problem. But yea, I would definitely have your 12V battery checked out....have a health/capacity check done....check for loose/corroded terminals, etc. And I would recommend you install a Bluetooth 12V voltage monitor on your battery as this will allow you to easy see and track the 12V battery voltage/SOC/temp.....greatly help to spot issues well in advance and/or confirm whether the battery is asleep/dead without needing to access the battery as the mobile app used with the monitor will tell you what is going on 24/7. I installed Ancel BM200 Bluetooth 12V Battery Monitors on both my 2023 BYD Atto and 2009 Toyota Fortuner about a year ago....the monitor works like a charm....has a voltage measurement accuracy of 0.03V (30mv), only draws 1.5ma working current, and includes 30 days memory. Cost is around Bt500 plus or minus Bt100 depending on promotions, discounts, etc. I brought mine off Lazada for around Bt420 including shipping around a year ago.

In BYD vehicles that KmH/100Km consumption estimate is like its NEDC (Not Even Damn Close) range estimation. Like my Atto has a NEDC range rating of 480Km. And if I use the Atto's consumption estimate (snapshot below) I'm consuming 12.7KWH per 100Km after 35,513Km of driving...about 99.9% of those kilometers were done in ECO mode with light foot driving here in and around the greater Bangkok area and bordering provinces with very little of those kilometers exceeding 120KmH and also not a lot of terrible Bangkok traffic since I don't live in the highrise, central Bangkok area where living half your life at a stop light/in a traffic jam can be the norm.....my Bangkok driving is where I can usually move along in the 50-80KmH ballpark. A/C set to 22C. Since my Atto Extend range model has a 60.48KWH battery and using the consumption numbers it translates to a range of 476Km....yea, right, maybe if using NEDC type math. Real-world I get around 400 to 442Kmh range depending on the time of year and of course the type of driving....a person gets better fuel efficiency during the cooler parts of the year as the air-con uses fewer electrons. My last two real world range tests where I make sure I use a light foot in driving, very little to no driving faster the 90KmH, "and" taking the SOC down to less than 10% (like even to 1%) was back in Sep 2024 and Jan 2024 where I got a range of 424Kmh which does exceed the Atto WLTP 420Km range rating but well short of its Not Even Damn Close (NEDC) 480KmH range rating. In some previous real world tests I've got as high at 442Km range. Do "not" base your BYD vehicle's range estimation on what its consumption reading tells you....base it on some real world range tests where you drive the car down to around 10% or less. But even driving down to say around 25% SOC can also give a fairly close real world range estimation. The BYD consumption guesstimate appears to not count total consumption as at least on my Atto...it gives a reading that is around 15% low real-world. Maybe it don't count A/C consumption which averages around 1.5KwH after the cabin has cooled down on hot days....and can even reach up to 4KwH when first starting the car if its been setting in the bright, hot sun. Maybe it don't count the time/electrons you are eating when not moving like at stop lights/stuck in a traffic jam, idling in the parking lot, etc. And maybe BYD just tweaks that consumption algorithm to give Happy Face type readings that always seem to be close to the car's NEDC rating.

He must have found the sweet spot speed in the 80KmH ballpark. I have noticed with my Atto its sweet spot is in the 50-80KmH ballpark....but below and above this ballpark range the range decreases significantly. Also, in a couple of other Sealion 7 range tests Bjorn did with the Sealion 7 with 82.5KWH battery he only got a range of 446Km at an average speed of 90KmH and 312Kmh at 120Kmh.

Extrapolating that to running the battery down to 0% would indicate a real-world range of around 449Km which sounds about right for a Sealion 7 Performance or AWD (I don't know which model you have) with NEDC ratings of 567 and 542Km, respectively. I kept my Atto in ECO mode for the first 3,000Km and since then (around 18 months now) I've kept it in ECO mode about 99.9% of the time. Only use Normal or Sport mode (which burns electrons a little faster) whenever I want to do some tests, maybe show-off the get-up-and-go to some passengers, etc. But ECO gives plenty, more than enough power for quick passing, quick get-away if you are the driver for bank robbery, etc.

Oh, my BYD Atto with a 60.5KWH battery is rated at NEDC 480Km/WLPT 420km....and I can get 420Km real world range with ECO driving. It's a lot more than I need for day-to-day driving....and needing to charge once on a long trip is not a big deal. HOWEVER, BUT, I would like to have an EV with approx 750Km real world range. Do I really "need" an EV with such a range? No. But do I "want/desire" such an EV? Yes. And I would like to have a full size SUV EV with that save 750Km range....heck, I would even settle in the interim for a 500Km real world range on a full size SUV such as a Fortuner size. And EVs with significantly longer range will pretty much kill-off a main reason lots of people don't buy an EV---range anxiety. EV sales will surge!!

Faster charging batteries is a good thing "if", repeat if you can find a DC charger with the high power to provide the required charging rate. Like a 80KWH EV battery with a 5C rate would require a 400KW DC Fast Charger to fully charge in 1 hour "if" the battery could maintain a 5C rate from zero to 100 SOC which is highly doubtful as that highest C rate will only be over a portion of the battery's charge curve. An 80KWH EV battery with a 10C rate would require an 800KW charger to take full advantage of the high C rate. How many 400KW and 800KW chargers have you seen around Thailand--probably zero. And of course a high C charge rate does nothing to improve your charging speed on your home 22/11/7KW wall charger. More powerful batteries/higher KWH without increase in physical size is what I would prefer....that is, like a 160KWH battery which is the same physical size as an 80KWH battery....give you a ton of range and/or be able to give good range to larger vehicles like a full size SUV say the size of a Toyota Fortuner or Isuzu MX-X SUV. Throw in faster charging/high C rate as ice cream on top of the pie....yummy.

And here's an article with partial quote with more details on the BYD ultra fast charging blade battery that can charge at 10C, Super-E 1000V/1000A platform, etc. This truly seems like a BIG step forward in batter battery technology that actually going to reach the common man at an affordable price very soon. However, it will not improve the charging speed at the typical 120KW DC charger, 7KW wall charger, etc. What I also hope to see soon is just EV batteries that can hold a "lot more KWH" without being physically bigger which will very significantly increase range. Faster charging and higher capacity batteries will drive hasten the continuing transition to EVs. https://cleantechnica.com/2025/03/17/byd-launches-1000-volt-ev-platform/

Didn't know there was a phone number login option for Thailand. I have to login with my email address and PW. Now once logged in whenever I need to open the app I just using biometric/fingerprint to get the app fully operating....no email and PW entry required. Only if I manually logout...that is click the logout icon do I have to login again using my email address and PW.

I assume both you and the daughter are using the "same" email acct when logging in?

Based on this BYD Australia weblink and Reddit posts, no can do "two" email accounts. And if having the app on two phones under one email address when you log onto one phone it will log you off the other phone. https://bydautomotive.com.au/announcement/8vN0ZSBaJBdO7DyzvwrMaURJTnnFtY3ldO10XHEgBodYyIUMehqd6CcvGwjmzFuB

Very recently the wife and I did 13 daily round trips of 165Km each to visit a close relative in the hospital....totaling 2,145km. Thankfully that relative is back home now and recovering well. We did all 13 daily trips in our BYD Atto EV....below is a comparison of the cost between the Atto and if we had made those 13 trips in our Toyota Fortuner 3.0L diesel.

For fuel savings comparison between my Toyota Fortuner 3.0L Diesel and my BYD Atto EV see below....it's a partial snapshot from a spreadsheet I made to determine my cost and cost savings between my ICEV and EV. This is based on charging at home using my wall charger and my MEA electric company average total cost per KWH (i.e., basic rate, Ft, tax, just all fees) is Bt5.16/KWH (non-TOU). Typically a person's fuel cost will be approx 75% lower when switching from a full size diesel-powered vehicle to a electric-powered vehicle assuming they can charge at home. I expect when switching from a compact petrol-power vehicle to a electric powered vehicle the savings will be in the 60-65% ballpark when considering the higher cost of petrol over diesel and the higher gas-mileage a compact petrol gets compared to a fuel size vehicle. And of course if you can charge from solar then the EV fuel cost is zero if you don't want to consider the cost of the home solar setup which was originally installed just to power your home...before a person got their EV. If you can't charge at home with a wall charger where you get electric company rates of around Bt5/KWH (including ALL costs) but must use commercial chargers then plan on paying around Bt6.5 to 9.5 per KWH....cost per KWH varies among the commercial charging companies. If charging at home but paying some inflated landlord KWH rate then be sure to take that into consideration. I expect in almost every case depending on the type of ICEV you are switching from, whatever home electric rate you are paying, how many kilometers you drive, whether you charge at home or at a commercial charger, etc....etc...etc., that a person will save "at least" 50% in fuel cost....most will probably be saving 60-80%....and some (the solar dudes) 100%.

OK...I understand now....thanks. You do understand as a "life long oil man" if you take this radical path to installing solar panels you could be excommunicated from the Retired Oil Workers Assn, Drill Baby Drill Cult, and possibly lose your seat on the Illuminati High Council. Heck, John Wick might even come looking for you! 😁😉

Are you saying you live somewhere in Thailand without electricity? Or are you saying you do have electrical service but you figure the electric company burns 12 liters of diesel per day to feed your home with electrons?

Just like in the "horse & buggy to motorized vehicles days" the transition from ICEV to EV will take decades---but it is happening with the typical ups-and-downs for most any technology trend. The ups-and-downs will be affected by the economy, trade and real wars, people becoming use to the new technology, etc. EOW, Is that your great, great grandmother petting the horse in her new petrol vehicle? 😜😉

Was this possible human's name "Sid?" Sid was the name in my re-instated acct response. And my response was short and sweet....could have easily been a bot response...a bot named Sid....or, maybe Sid was human.

BYD sales "within" Thailand may be down compared to the overall Thailand BEV market but on a worldwide basis BYD sales are booming...growing....a 41% increase from 2023 to 2024. And regarding BYD sales in Thailand, well, there is ton more competition...a bigger, wider choice of BEV brands to choose from...many more brands in Thailand now compared to a year or so ago. But BYD is still the 800 pound guerilla in Thailand for overall BEV sales. And let's not forget falling sales for ICE and EV in Thailand over the last year or so due to high household debt, much tougher financing rules, etc. https://tridenstechnology.com/byd-sales-statistics/#:~:text=BYD sold a record 4%2C272%2C145,claiming the Global Sales Champion!&text=Battery electric vehicle (BEV) sales,%2C up 12.1% from 2023.

See below Autolife 10 Mar 2025 media release for full details regarding Jan and Feb 2025 100% electric/BEV R.Y.1 vehicle category registrations. https://autolifethailand.tv/ev-register-feb-2025-thailand/ Note that in "January," 1 of every 5 newly registered vehicles in the R.Y.1 vehicle category was a 100% electric BEV vehicle....a good start to the year....result of end of 2024 promotions I guess. January was a BIG month for BEVs. BYD Dolphin and BYD Sealion 7 are the number 1 and 2, respectively, most registered BEVs so far in 2025 with the MG4 Electric coming in at 3rd and closely followed by the Deepal S07 in 4th position. Total registrations of 100% electric vehicles in Thailand in February 2025 totaled 5,164 units | Decreased by -58.3% compared to the previous month and increased by 42.1% compared to the same period of the previous year. BYD Dolphin is the champion, followed by AION V / ORA Good Cat / MG 4 / AION HYPTEC HT Total car registrations in the 100% electric vehicle group (BEV: Battery Electric Vehicle) in January 2025 total 12,376 cars (accounting for 22.1% of the total car registrations in Thailand, R.Y.1, totaling 55,923 cars) https://autolifethailand.tv/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/EV_feb_2025_table-for-facebook.jpg

A lot of people think that any US govt agency (like the SSA) can see/access all data collected and maintained by another US govt agency (like State Dept, IRS, etc) and this thinking is incorrect. While some US govt agencies do share certain info it is specific and limited in scope....only what is needed for a govt agency to do its job and then it's usually limited in scope. Basically on a need to know type basis kinda like access to classified material and privacy data. Some database info is readily shared but other info is not. You get the idea. What is SSA does sometimes in requesting certain forms/docs is just obtaining documentation for "their system".....info that might be maintained in another federal, state or local govt system but that info is not available to the SSA. So, the SSA will ask the applicant for docs to provide the info they need. Heck, when my wife applied for SS pension which would be based on my record since she fell a half year short of having enough work record to earn SS pension based on her work record the SSA Manila sent me a simple one page form to confirm I was still married to her, when and where we got married, etc.,...I completed/signed it and sent it back. And Manila even had the wife fill out the form to apply for a SS number although she has had a SSN for decades and decades....but the SSA needed that form for "their records" and which also ended up in her getting sent a new SS card---not a new number, just a new card. The Manila rep told us although there is indeed proof in other govt systems of this-and-that, the SSA does "not" have direct access to those systems. No one should think that just because you have a US passport issued by the US State Dept that the SSA can see/confirm such by the SSA looking at some State Dept database...nope, it don't work that way. Maybe is should but we don't live in a "should" world. Heck, the Manila SSA Office is part of the US Embassy - Manila which is part of the US State Dept....that Manila SSA rep can "not" just go across the hall to the Manila Embassy Passport office and ask that they provide confirmation/ a copy of the applicant's current US passport from some St Dept databses...nope, it don't work that way....maybe it should....but we don't live in a "should-world"....we live in the real-world like it or not. Each applicant is different.....each has had a different life....some are citizens by birth....some are naturalized citizens....some have paid social security-type taxes to other countries which can complicate an application....some are applying for benefits based on their own work record while others are applying based a current or former spouse work record.....etc.....etc......etc.....etc.....etc. Oh my gosh, there are some many life and work record issues that can possibly apply to each application. And due to all the variables you read and hear all types of stories about SS benefit applications. For some applicants the process went quick & smooth and for others the process was filled with lot of additional docs and a long wait as SSA evaluated and/or waited for the additional docs which were to be provided by the applicant or another agency. So, if you get asked by the SSA for a certain doc/complete a certain form that makes you scratch your head as to "why" it's needed because you can't figure why it's needed or why the SSA doesn't have readily access to the info maintained in another govt database, I would recommend you do yourself a favor and just provide the requested doc/form. Complain about it later if desired if that makes you feel better, but to keep you SS application moving along just provide the doc/form.

Pretty much the exact same thing happened around 18 months when I hand-worked a neighbor (a dual US/Thai citizen) thru the process. He applied online....about two weeks later he got an email from Manila saying that Baltimore had relayed his application to them for some action. And in that same email was an telephone interview appt about 2 months down the road. When telephone interview occurred (Manila calls you) it only took about 5 minutes to confirm a few things and Manila required him to provide his US passport (original or certified copy) via mail and email. I think they also asked for a completed IDD direct deposit form since he want direct deposit via IDD. He had already got certified true copy of his US passport from the US Embassy - Bangkok and had the direct deposit form complete to include the bank's part. Since he was a Naturalized US citizen Manila required him to provide his US passport "or" Naturalization Certificate just as I told him Manila would probably ask for such based on 2 other Naturalized US citizens I hand-walked in applying for SS pension. But if a US citizen by birth it's unlikely they will ask for your passport.

It's my opinion/based on my experience with my BYD Atto Extended range 60.5KWH battery EV when comparing remaining range guesstimate when in Standard or Dynamic range modes that it does not really make any difference in remaining range guesstimate once your SOC of is approx 75% or less as there will just be a few kilometers difference between the two---or at least that's been my experience. And once you get down to around 10% SOC (about 50Km range remaining for my Atto) both Standard and Dynamic range modes will both estimate almost exactly the same remaining range. Every 3 to 4 months I take the SOC down to less than 10%...usually down to around 5%.....one time to 2%....and one time to a mere 1% and the remaining range estimate between Standard and Dynamic range mode were exactly the same. When I fully charge to 100% if in Standard mode I get a 480 NEDC estimate since my Atto Extended range has a 480Km NEDC rating (420 WLTP). If will "always" be 480Km when in Standard mode....I've never seen anything other than 480. It's like a 480Km estimate is triggered when the SOC reaches 100%....it would probably do this even if the battery was 20 years old and only had a real remaining range of 100Km. But start driving a little bit the range estimate would drop like a lead weight. However, if in Dynamic range mode at 100% SOC the reading varies.....typically some where between 485-498Km (usually in the mid 490's)....my Atto is now 17 months old. And once I saw 503 and a 505Km when the EV was only a couple months old. But once I start driving say 5Km real world per the odometer the remaining range estimate can easily drop 10Km due to the the top charge capacity of not being very linear at all...for the first few percent the battery voltage will drop quite a bit before stabilizing and presenting a pretty flat voltage curve until you reach around 10% SOC when it will start dropping off pretty fast but not so fast the SOC and range meter can't give an accurate reading. Yea, between around 98 to 100% it seems that's a tough area to get a good range estimate due to the battery voltage dropping pretty fast until the voltage drop flattens out....it's just the nature of lithium type batteries. Yea, I think when EV manufacturers give a person Standard and Dynamic range mode options it really just to satisfy customers who think the Dynamic mode gives a more accurate estimate which I'm doubtful it does. But I leave my EV set to the Dynamic range estimate mode as I know once I get down to around 75% or less SOC the Standard and Dynamic modes are giving almost exactly the same remaining range and at around 10% or less that are jointed-at-the-hip in their estimates. Plus, unless I'm intentionally discharging to less than 10% so I can then recharge to 100% to recalibrate the SOC/BMS electronics I never drop below 25% SOC whether just driving locally or on a long trip.

You can apply online from outside the US....like from Thailand. A SS online account is "not" needed to apply. Once submitted "if", repeat, if Baltimore needs to relay it to Manila for some processing such as doing a telephone interview you will get an email from Manila saying such along with a date/time for the telephone interview. What documents, if any, SSA may need to support your application varies from individual to individual. Apply online starting here: https://www.ssa.gov/apply Once again, you do not need a SSA online acct to apply online. In case SSA does ask you to provide them the original or certified copy of some documents like your passport you can get such from the US Embassy/Consulate in person "or" via a mail-in process discussed below....since you are applying for federal benefits the service is free other than mailing fees. https://th.usembassy.gov/u-s-citizen-services/local-resources-of-u-s-citizens/notaries-public/notaries-public-2/

Many, many, many organizations/companies (government agencies and civilian companies/organizations), like state and city governments now use IDme like unemployment benefits, IRS, etc....etc...etc. IDme is like the 800 pound guerrilla in the US when it comes to identity verification and acct login management. And when I say identity verification I mean not just a one-time verification to do a one-time event but to logon certain sites like the IRS. That is a person still goes to a certain organization's website to click the login button which then takes the person to the IDme portal for login using a person's IDme login credentials and then the IDme routes the person back to the website they wanted to log into like a person's IRS acct, VA account, etc....etc....etc account....they are now logged into that acct. Many organizations have just contracted-out to IDme the responsibility of verifying a person's identity and the login process. It's kinda like IDme is now the doorman/bouncer at a club's entrance....you can't get into the club without going thru the doorman/bouncer first. Preaching to the choir I know....this is just for others who may not know how IDme, Login.gov, etc., works....why they exist....what they do.

A seriously doubt a hardware passkey is going to help from possibly get temporarily suspended unless when selecting as passkey as one of the 2FA methods available on IDme that use of a passkey overrides/prevents use of any other 2FA method such as Google Authenticator, SMS, etc., which I don't think it does. But a "passkey" does greatly help in phishing/using a fraudulent, fake website as doing the passkey setup the correct site to log into is part of the passkey setup....and a passkey can negate the entry of a person's login User ID and PW....it basically like going "password-less." And some websites, like some banking websites, are now starting to offer "software-based passkey" login where one of your devices, like mobile phone or computer, acts as a "passkey"...basically it simulates a hardware-based passkey. Software-based passkeys may make hardware-based passkeys unneeded....and software-based passkeys are free; can't say the same for hardware-based passkeys. IDme article on use of a passkey on IDme https://help.id.me/hc/en-us/articles/10295798300951-Setting-up-passkey-multi-factor-authentication-MFA