Pib

Try logging out of the app and then logging in again. Maybe it's the app causing the change from before. OR, maybe that's how a Seal will operate after the Sim upgrade. I just know what happened on my Atto after the Sim upgrade as I posted earlier....that is, it only did a similar thing as you are experiencing on my first use of the app to start the A/C. Hopefully some other Seal owners will report their post-Sim upgrade experience. This morning I did another test of starting the A/C via app and it started the A/C and car (including infotainment display) just as pre-Sim upgrade.

When I saw above I thought to myself if I had tried starting the A/C with the BYD app after my Atto's SIM upgrade approx two weeks ago....I don't think I had. I had used the app to check the status of the Atto and all worked as normal, but I hadn't used the app to start the A/C. So, I gave it a try and I experienced the same thing as you when using the BYD app; HOWEVER, it only occurred on the first use of the BYD app to turn the A/C after the SIM upgrade. I used the BYD app to start the A/C, went to the car, the A/C was running as you could hear it and feel the cool air, however, the car was not powered up as normal...no display...no running lights....no nothing other than the A/C working. When I pressed the car Start button it stopped the A/C but nothing happened as in the car starting. I then pressed the Start button again and the car started as normal as did the A/C. I immediately then run the test again. I turned the car off. Used the BYD app to turn on the A/C, but this time the car A/C started along with the car starting as normal....just like before the SIM swap/upgrade. I did probably a half dozen more tests that day with same results...that is, car and A/C starting when using the app to start the A/C. And today I did the test several more times....same results....A/C and car starting just like before the SIM upgrade. So, appears it was just a glitch...a "one time" glitch resulting from the SIM upgrade....a one time glitch that cleared itself after one time.

I'm running G-box version 1.5.2.5 If you are getting the "Authentication is required. You need to sign into your Google account....Try Again" OR you are getting "Something went Wrong...Try Again" message it's probably because you are "not" signed into your google account although it may appear you are signed in as you see the icon in the upper right indicating your are logged in but you may have really got logged out. Go to the G-box icon, long press it, press Storage, and then clear both Data and Cache. This will reset G-box....it will take about 30 seconds to reset itself to its original status and then you can log into Google Play with your google acct....things should work then. I did this process before...it pretty much just starts you fresh with G-box....G-box is not deleted or anything like that...it's just reset.

See below post regarding a ReverSharger promotion announced today/25 Dec. Happy Holidays.

Just to confirm...have you logged into your Google acct? If not you need to as that allows update of Google Play, download/install of the app shown on the Gbox screen, etc.

Yeap...it turned out to be related to the Wallet. When you use a ReverSharger charger you earn credits....the more KWH you use can change you wallet rating from a status of Silver, Gold, or Platinum. Even when charging-up with BYD 'free/reduced rate" electrons it counts as credits/affect the rating status of your your wallet. Like for me since I've used ReverSharger a LOT over the past several months under the BYD free electrons promotion which runs thru 2 Jan 2025 by ReverSharger status rating is Platinum. This big Christmas gife ReverSharger was advertising (now on their Facebook page) is basically a reduced charging rate depending on your ReverSharger Wallet Status rating. See below. With my Platinum rating I will be able to charge for Bt5.8/KWH....which is not bad considering it costs me Bt5.2/KWH when using my home wall charger...and that 5.2 baht includes the basic rate, Ft, VAT, and meter fee. This Christmas gift expires at the end of Jun 2025. https://assets.aseannow.com/forum/uploads/monthly_2024_12/image.png.a781d70d9ca6d8ed262667368db3b273.png

I've seen above "Try Again" error a few times....every time I have clicked it to Try Again it "did" make a connection on the 1st or 2nd click....all was fine.

After looking at ReverSharger Facebook page I now think it will have something to do with ReverSharger "Wallet"....maybe doubling, tripling, etc., the amount a person has earned from charging. And since the Facebook poster says the gift is for "everyone" I now kinda doubt it being related to the BYD free/reduced rate promotion which did not apply to everyone. Plus, BYD vs ReverSharger would probably be the one announcing an extension of the free/reduced rate promotion. Who knows....we are all guessing....time will tell.

Since it's from/about ReverSharger maybe it's extending the current free/reduced electrons promotion from 5 months to 12 months. The current promotion began 1 Aug 2024 and ends 3 Jan 2025 ( a few more days than 5 months)....maybe BYD will be extending the promotion by 7 months till 31 July 2025 which ends-up giving 12 months of free/reduced rate electrons. This would line up with a govt rep announcing in late July 2024 that supposedly BYD agreed to 12 months of free/reduced rate electrons but a few days later BYD only implemented the current promotion for 5 months Time will tell.

And one more thing. An OBD2 adapter is only half of the team...the other team member is the OBD2 app you use to connect to/interface with the adapter.....then this team can communicate with the car. And for the app and adapter to communicate with each other (and the car) the app has to have a specific "Connection Profile File" which is a fancy name for a device driver....a driver that will properly communicate with the adapter "and car." That Connection Profile File is VERY important. The Car Scanner app talked earlier than LOTS of Connection Profile Files (i.e., drivers) for many different brands/models of cars...to include EVs. Below are a couple of snapshots of the Connection Profile File choices for BYD and MG cars. For BYD Vehicles For MG Vehicles

And to finish-up this post, below are some links to low cost OBD2 adapters you can buy on Lazada/Shopee. I have both the Konnwei KW902 (also sold as a Vgate model) and costs around Bt300 and the MiniElm327 which costs around Bt50. Both give the exact same OBD2 data readouts and work fine with the Car Scanner ELM OBD2 app. I recommend you buy an OBD2 adapter which has a on/off switch so you can leave it plugged into the car all the time but turn if off when not using it. Below adapter has an on/off switch. This way someone who happens to be nearby to your (say within 10 meters) can not tap into the Bluetooth connection between the adapter and your phone. It just adds some security. The on/off capability is not important regarding 12V battery power usage....like draining your 12V battery...because the adapter draws a minute amount of power (like 1.5ma). Plus these adapters typically go into sleep mode automatically after 30 minutes whenever they are not connected to/talking to the OBD app. This link is to the Konnwei KW903 that I bought...but Konnwei now has a later model out called the KW906 whose only difference appears to be a minor change in the case color/texture. Go here for the Konnwei website. When looking on Lazada/Shopee search for Konnwei KW906....and you will still find plenty of the KW901/902/903 which are identical except for case color. https://s.lazada.co.th/s.HjmTg And below link is for the MiniElm327. It does not have an on/off switch. https://s.lazada.co.th/s.HjOOn And DO NOT buy this OBD2 adapter. Although it has an on/off switch it has a non-standard MAC code which doesn't allow it to work with a lot of OBD apps like the Car Scanner app. https://s.lazada.co.th/s.HjmaU In closing, an OBD2 adapter is really just a "reader" of digital OBD2 data developed/contained/saved in your car's computers/modules/BMS. The adapter is only a reader except for one measurement and that is measurement of the 12V battery (a.k.a., OBD2 voltage) and the reader's use of its own built-in low accuracy voltmeter circuit which can reads plus or minus 0.5V which is not very accurate when you want to know the 12V battery's voltage when not being charged or being charged. So, what you do one time is determine how much the adapter reads low or high. Use a digital multimeter with descent accuracy and measure the voltage directly across the 12V battery terminals...say it reads 12.9V....then see what the OBD readout is saying...if it says say 13.3V (which is high) then you know you need to substract 0.4V from your OBD 12V battery readout for the actual voltage....you basically now have determined a -0.4V correction factor. Happy Holidays

I actually bough my first OBD2 adapter a few weeks "before" I got my Atto in late Oct 2023 in preparation of wanting to monitor OBD data on the EV I would soon have in my carport. Watching Youtube video like those from Bjorn Nyland I got very interested in wanting to monitor/know everything I could about the EV traction battery. In Byorn's videos he uses the Car Scanner "Pro" app for almost all his videos except maybe when he doing a video on a Tesla where he sometimes uses another OBD2 app tailored specifically for Tesla vehicles. But he uses an $80USD OBDLink LX adapter which will not provide you anymore info for many car's (like EVs) than a cheap Bt50 OBD2 adapter bought off Lazada/Shopee. Go to one of his videos and look down in the comments section and he has links to the OBD app and adapter he uses....as I already mentioned above. There is a Car Scanner "free" version and a Car Scanner "Pro" version. The version cost about $5 USD which is did buy. It's like the most popular OBD2 app of the many out there. Excellent app and updated frequently. And the app even comes with around a dozen pre-made data screen specifically for EV's...LOTS of traction battery monitoring info...LOTS and LOTS. The only difference the free and pro version is the Pro version don't bother you will advertising and allows you to make/modified OBD2 data screens. Definitely spend the $5 on the pro version, but like I said the free version is pretty much the same as the pro version except for advertising and in-ability to make/modified OBD2 data screens/readouts which is very easy to do on the Pro version. See some snapshots below of the Car Scanner app although I think the snapshot/video is showing the free version. The Pro version will have "Pro" in the name also. I need to go right now but later this evening I will provide a recommendation on what OBD2 adapter(s) to consider buying off of Lazada/Shopee. Low cost adapter...works just fine. I got a story to go along with the recommendation. Later....

Yes, charging losses are accounted for except possibly for the amount of heat generated within the battery itself during the charging process....no need to try to figure out charging cable, onboard charger, etc., varying charging losses as I use the OBD2 KWH and AH accumulated data direct from the EV's BMS/electronic modules. I'm not using some external meter to monitor how much KWH/AH flowed out of that external AC or DC charger where things like charger cable, onboard charger, cooling system, etc., type power usage (a.k.a., losses) must be estimated for a SOH determination. And using an external meter can easily result in the SOH of a battery appearing much better that it really is because of accuracy related to the external meter and incorrect charging losses estimation. But when measuring the KWH/AH "after" the point of all/most charging losses and using the EV's own KWH/AH measurement circuit which is hopefully fairly accurate then a person SOH measurement can be much more accurate as compared to an external measurement.....can determine how much juice actually made it into the battery. The KWH and AH flow measurement into the battery is accomplished by a shunt sensor right after the juice enters the battery and this is reflected in OBD2 data....this sensor is after any other circuits can drain off/divert some of the KWH/AH.....right after those big orange high voltage cables enter the traction battery. That shunt sensor is part of the battery's BMS system. That KWH/AH measurement circuit is constantly measuring the power into and out of the battery....when the measurement dust settles you know exactly how much juice made it into the battery after all possible charging losses with the possible exception of slight heating of the battery itself which is very minimal when charging via 7KW wall charger. 7KW of power following into a large traction battery like my Atto's 60.5KW battery represents only a 0.12C Rate (charge rate) which is a low rate that generates very little heat....at such a low rate it takes over 10 hours to fully charge a battery. C Rate definition below. But back to the measurement of the KWH/AH by the EV's KWH/AH measurement circuit and OBD2 data recording of that measurement. Below is a snapshot of the KWH/AH OBD2 accumulation/measurement. Just take a OBD2 data measurement of the Accumulated KWH and/or AH before beginning the charge....then take measurement/snapshot after the charge completes...substract the two and then divided by the battery's rated battery pack capacity (like my Atto's 60.48KW/150AH battery pack) along with making a correction/adjustment in those cases where you could not start the charge from 0% SoC. This is the method I'm using to obtain my SOH 97% calculation. And if I instead just used measurements of input KWH/AH from an "external" meter like built into many AC chargers, a DC Fast Charger, etc., without correction for various charging losses a person could easily end up with a SoH greater than 100%....a battery with a SoH better than when it was brand new. And even when using an estimation of charging losses....say around 8.5% average when using a 7KW wallcharger you could still end-up with a SOH of greater than 100% as the charging losses for that particular charger could have been significantly different for that particular long, multi-hour charging session where charging efficiency could have varied a good amount. But if using the EV's built-in KWH/AH measurement circuit it's keeping tabs/correcting for all those possible charging loss errors. OBD2 Data Snapshot....shows Accumulated KWH and AH....that is the amount of KWH and AH that actually make it into the battery after charging losses.

Thanks. Since a MG dealership did the measurement with their OBD2 reader it's probably a good SOH readout. The dealerships service centers have high end OBD2 devices and also access to any proprietary OBD2 data the EV's computers/BMS may contain....proprietary OBD2 data that may not be available on the open market like when you buy a low cost OBD2 adapter and match it up with some OBD2 app your get for free or a small amount. Now several weeks ago when I took my BYD Atto to the dealership for the SIM upgrade/swap I asked if I could get a battery SOH readout. The answer was a firm No!!!....they will only do that if a problem is suspected with the traction battery. As explained in one of my earlier posts regarding SOH of my Atto battery I don't get a "valid" SOH readout using my OBD2 adapter with the Car Scanner Pro app. The SOH readout the app gives is a "calculated" SOH obtained from dividing two static, hard-coded values set at the factory and these values never change..,even 10 years from now those values will not change....SOH next month, 1 year from now, 10 years from now would appear like it did day 1 out of the factory. Maybe in the future the Car Scanner Pro app author will figure out the secret to obtaining a direct SOH readout (i.e., not calculated) from BYD vehicles BMS "assuming" the BYD BMS has such a value vs BYD using some type of fancy algorithm on a external OBD2 device to come up with a SOH reading based on a bunch of various factors like individual cell voltage, cells voltage delta, etc. Time will tell. The app's author knows EV owners really want to see a traction battery SOH reading with whatever app they use/buy so the "calculated" SOH probably fools a lot of people....hopefully such people will figure that out over the coming months/years assuming they notice the SOH readout has not changed even a little bit. So, I been doing some SOH measurements using OBD2 data based on KWH and Amp-Hour (AH) capacity when charging from a low SoC....usually starting at around 5% SoC. About a month ago when I last did a SOH measurement (the Atto was 13 months old with approx 27,000 Km at the time) I got a SOH measurement of 97.6% when using the "KWH" measurement method and 96.7% if using the "AH" measurement method. The average of those two methods is 97.1%, 97.1% is not bad considering...actually pretty good....as a lithium-ion type battery (LFP like the Atto battery or even a NCA/NCM battery) has its biggest capacity degradation during the first year or so and then the continued degradation is much slower as the years go on.

How was that SoH measurement done? What type of equipment was used? Who did it? Is your battery LFP or NCA/NCM? Sorry for multiple questions but I've really been interested in SoH measurements over the past 6 months....and I've come to the conclusion that some SoH measurements done by some shops are like some people who sell snake oil.

After having my Atto with 60.5KWH battery now for almost 14 months/28,000km one thing has been obvious to me that during cooler weather I get approx 10% better range. We are now in the cooler part of the Thailand seasons and I've already seen this range increase just like I saw 14 months ago when first got my Atto in late Oct 2023 just before the cool season began. Having now driven the car over a full year I have experienced all the seasons...the varying temperature and humidity throughout a whole year. Why approx 10% better range in cooler weather you may ask? Well, it not due to the traction battery retaining less juice in hot weather/summer weather as a traction battery typically can add a few percent more more KWH around 40C than at it's 25C factory rated power. But it's because of the electric A/C usage. The "electric-power" A/C compressor doesn't have to work as hard/use as much juice in cooler weather to keep your EV cool as compared to hot weather like in the summer. Monitoring precise OBD2 data and just watching the KW usage on the EV's display during the summer months and if the car has been setting in an unshaded parking location when you first start the EV they electric A/C is going to pull a LOT more KW than after 15 minutes or so when it's been able to cool down the cabin. But even after it has initially cooled down during hot weather it still takes more KW to keep the cabin cool as you drive along as the sun beats thru your tinted windows. I've seen my Atto whose A/C I set at 22C pull up to 4KW in hot weather when starting the EV after it's been setting in a mall parking lot with no shade....just a HOT car cabin. After after starting the EV and driving off it can be 15 minutes or more before the electric A/C is now pulling only around 2-3KW at EV at idle like at a stop light. Now during the cool part of they year initialing cooling off a hot car cabin and keeping it cool while you drive takes a very significant less amount of electric A/C power. Heck, in cooler weather you can actually be at idle with A/C at 22C and you EV display can show 0 (zero) Kw usage but since on BYD models the Kw displayed rounds "down" to the whole number you could really be pulling 0.99Kw per OBD2 readout but the BYD would display 0KW....can kinda deceive a person. You could be displaying 1Kw but actually be pulling 1.99Kw (almost double for what the display shows)....displaying 2Kw but could be pulling up to 2.99Kw....etc. During the cooler part of the year I can easily achieve 420Km real world driving range, which is the Atto's WLTP rating, and even up to around 442Kw real world range if not driving above 90KmH and not in stop-and-go city traffic....just driving very economically. But come the "hot, high humidity" time of the year I only get around 390-400Km real world range no matter how easy...how economically I drive.

Then maybe an OTA update has made the RWD BMS and AWD BMS same-same.

That protruding bolt in that Sealion pic or even the protruding bol shown in my Atto pic are "not" close to a person's feet UNLESS the person is trying to jam his feet up under the dash and way behind the pedals. And I just went out to my Atto and tried touching those protruding bolts I showed in my Atto pic by sticking my feet behind the pedals and they upwards to where my toes could feel/touch those bolts. I could just barely feel them....they did not bit/snag my toes....and I would be crazy to try to drive that way with my feet behind the pedals and pushed upwards to reach those bolts as I surely wouldn't get far before having an accident.

My post/chart was talking "charging rate"; not range. And you did say in earlier posts that your MG ZS EV charged very slowly at a higher SoC. And regarding range estimates that website does its range tests under specific, controlled, repeatable conditions which us humans driving on real life roads can not duplicate as everybody's driving area, habits, conditions, etc., vary quite a bit.

Do you have a Seal RWD which is the charging curve chart you include in your post above? Or, do you have a Seal AWD which has a different charging curve as shown below? And notice the chart below shows a 45-46KW charging rate up to 98% like you are showing almost the same at 44kW at 99%....so, that's why I'm asking if maybe you have a Seal AWD. Additionally, from my experience of using the ReverSharger DC chargers over 5 dozen times since early August in getting free electrons and using OBD2 data which shows charging percentage to a tenth of a percent once reaching 98.5% per OBD2 data readout which will be a 99% readout on your EV's display the vehicle charging curve can deviate quite a bit from charge to charge. In fact if you started the current DC charge from a higher SoC say over 90% then when you get to around 98% display on the vehicle it can jump right to 100% because the charging percentage indicator gets confused/recalibrates itself...I've notice this several times on my Atto at the ReverSharger because If I drive by one that has an open slot I will pull-in an top-up...even if my SoC is at 90% or a little more....get those free electrons whenever I can without queuing. Yea, the charging rate during the last couple of percent can appear quite a bit different than the last time you charged depending on SoC starting from, temperature of battery, SoC percent indicator getting confused, etc. But unless there has been an OTA update changing the battery's BMS charging curve the rest of the curve should follow pretty close "assuming" the charger you are using can provide whatever amount of KW is being requested by the EV. But if at a charger that can't provide the power level being requested then of course the curve wouldn't match....the curves shown at that website is based on using high power DC chargers that can provide whatever amount the EV requests. Charging Curve for Seal AWD https://evkx.net/models/byd/seal/seal_awd/chargingcurve/

If you are trying to upload your updated passport under the passport area it may not work unless BOI has unlocked it for you....same for hotel info. You may need to provide the info to BOI via Email and/or contact BOI telling them your problem. A similar thing happened to me when I was applying for my LTR 2 years ago. In the end I had to "email" BOI my passport which hadn't changed any since I initially uploaded it. DO NOT wait to see what the next day might bring since you are having problems in the upload. Email or call BOI with your problem....they should respond via email within hours to a business day or two. You will not be able to make an appointment until you satisfy BOI info/docs request.

@KhunLA If I remember right you have a MG ZS EV. If so from looking at it's charging curve from 89% to 100% it has a low and rapidly decreasing charging rate to 100%. By the time it gets to 95% it down to a 11KW rate and then to 6KW just before reaching 100%. That is not quick. Now my Atto has a has a charge rate of 32KW from 85% to 99% and the final 1% is at 16KW. MG ZS EV Charging Curve https://evkx.net/models/mg/zs/zs_ev_standard_range/chargingcurve/

From the Manila SSA Office website. It may by around two weeks before they respond....and they "might" ask for additional info and/or a signed direct deposit form if they want your John Hancock on a form....you'll just have to wait and see. And I expect even if they took action on your email already that it wouldn't be until the 3 Feb 2025 payment that it would take effect. https://ph.usembassy.gov/services/social-security/faq/

When opening the ReverSharger app today it said an update is required. I pressed update and it downloaded/installed the update from Google Play....then the app started up. I then noticed I had a "Wallet" where I could add credits via PromptPay instead of just being able to pay via debit/credit card. Now the Wallet icon down at the bottom of the app has been there for a while and when opening it that's were I added debit/credit card(s) to pay for charging. But today it also showed a "Wallet Number" and a red link titled "Add Credits" that I had never seen before. And by clicking that Add Credits link I can add funds (credits) to the wallet via Prompt Pay which gives a person another way to pay for a charging session instead of using a debit/credit card. Now if the Add Credits to your Wallet ability has always been there and I just noticed it today maybe because of the app update emphasizing it/displaying it in a way that finally caught my eye then bad on me. But if it is a new where you can now pay via a Wallet balance where you top-up via PromptPay vs only being able to pay via debit/credit card then this new capability is a good thing especially if a person couldn't get the ReverSharger app to accept their debit/credit card as a Payment Option....or just didn't want to load their debit/credit card as a payment option.

Your MG must charge super slow during the last 5%. I think your MG must have a very slow final 5% based on how it balances/calibrates the BMS. My Atto charges at the same rate from 85% to 100%....a rate of 32KW. And below that the Atto's charge curve is 88KW up to 65%..then from 65% to 85% it's 57KW...and then as already mentioned 32kW 85% to 100%. Or said another way, charging from 95% to 100% (that final 5%) takes the same time as charging from 85% to 90%, 90% to 95%. Each one of those 5% increments takes approx 7 to 8 minutes. And in the final minute of charge just before it reaches 100% it goes into "calculating" mode where it's calibrating the charge percentage indicator. And I seriously doubt such chargers where you pay an attendant vs needing an app will become wide spread....I expect it to remain very rare. Heck, Thailand don't even do "self-serve, self pay" petrol/diesel fuel pump where you insert your debit/credit card into a card reader built into the pump. PTT did some "testing" on the concept about 10 years ago but after almost 20 years in Thailand I've never seen a self-serve/self pay gas pump.