Am I a genius or what? - Luggage.

[AllanB]

Stick welding this thickness would be quite difficult and no-one out there is going to have a mig. In an ideal world I would buy a Mig, cut-off saw and pipe-bender and do it myself, like the good old days in the UK. But a lot of expense for something I will use once, so this fairly thin walled stainless is less than ideal, though lightweight.

 

If I do drop the bike it will deform, but then so will I, anyway l'll give it a try, see if I can get some triangulation into it somewhere and it shouldn't f-up the bike in a prang.

 

LOS, but not exactly a country for engineering..though the guy does speak a bit of English and Khon Kaen is not exactly a western town either, so getting my excuses in early.

Edited October 31, 2017 by AllanB

[VocalNeal]

The rack on my Indonesian NSR was just mild steal and painted black. It worked fine. Side bars and rear about 20mm x 5mm and ribbing/braces 6mm/1/4" rod. Any local who owns a "gas axe" will be able to bend some steel for you. 

Or you could buy some charcoal, a blower and a leather apron 

 

yes a staidness gate shop will do it but I would stand and watch

Edited October 31, 2017 by VocalNeal

[AllanB]

3 hours ago, VocalNeal said:

The rack on my Indonesian NSR was just mild steal and painted black. It worked fine. Side bars and rear about 20mm x 5mm and ribbing/braces 6mm/1/4" rod. Any local who owns a "gas axe" will be able to bend some steel for you. 

Or you could buy some charcoal, a blower and a leather apron 

 

yes a staidness gate shop will do it but I would stand and watch

Easy to build a "brick shithouse" that will survive a nuclear bomb, I am looking at keeping the weight down to a minimum as we ride two up at 145kg before we start. It is only a 250, so every kilo counts.

 

Will put the heavy stuff in the tank bag, so each bag will only carry a few kilos, to spread the weight, may even put a rack over the front light. Possibly a bit OTT though.

 

Anyway we have the thing tacked up, will pick it up tomorrow morning, see if we need any mods, B2000, which is okay.

[AllanB]

Due to the fact that there is very little exposed steel for the tank bag magnets, have added a couple of simple clips. They unclip very easily for refuelling easily.

 

Got the frame made up B1500, lightweight but pretty rigid, so no additional bracing deemed necessary (so far) I don't plan to crash, but plan on keeping the frame semi-sacrificial.

 

The bags cost B300 each including the mods, I want to keep the load down to 5kg each side, using the tank bag for the heavier stuff. If we go past this temporarily, with food, the bags are expandable.

 

One mistake I made was that I should have made them asymmetric as I only need to clear the silencer on one side, may to a mod??

 

Need a few more bits of velcro too, but drilled no additional holes. 

[Randell]

Nice job Allen. Looks very professional job and light but functional. Although what about heat from exhaust  and  nylon back pack I know you have some space there you might need to add a bit of shielding to that side but only time will tell. Great job enjoy your trip. And thanks for sharing.

Randell

[AllanB]

29 minutes ago, Randell said:

Nice job Allen. Looks very professional job and light but functional. Although what about heat from exhaust  and  nylon back pack I know you have some space there you might need to add a bit of shielding to that side but only time will tell. Great job enjoy your trip. And thanks for sharing.

Randell

Yes, only 3cm, that may not be enough.

 

Have to look to see what I can use......

[Rhys]

Good on you mate for the work... but keep it basic... you have a dirtbike.

Edited November 4, 2017 by Rhys

[papa al]

13 hours ago, AllanB said:

Yes, only 3cm, that may not be enough.

 

Have to look to see what I can use......

glob some aluminium foil round there

[VocalNeal]

A thing of beauty is a joy forever.

[thaiguzzi]

Looks strong enough to double up as a bike stand, so you can get that punctured  rear wheel out in the middle of nowhere...

[AllanB]

21 hours ago, Randell said:

Nice job Allen. Looks very professional job and light but functional. Although what about heat from exhaust  and  nylon back pack I know you have some space there you might need to add a bit of shielding to that side but only time will tell. Great job enjoy your trip. And thanks for sharing.

Randell

As I mentioned I did think of making it asymmetric and with this problem, thought a simple solution would be to move it across by one hole.

 

Looks okay I think, gives me now 6cm from the silencer, perhaps at a simple heat shield too.

 

Can see any issues with it protruding out more one side???

 

[Randell]

Looks good hardly noticeable that it isn't symmetrical and that will definitely help dissipate the heat. I same again great work.

Randell

[thaiguzzi]

IMHO the thing wants 8-10-12 cms cutting out the middle and weld it back together. You only need an inch (2.5cms in new money) clearance each side.

The thing is FAR TOO WIDE. Look at it from behind with the rucksacks attached compared to h/bar width - too wide.

Was'nt it Allan (and I agree) going on about BMW GS Bohemoths and their ridiculous width?

 I doubt you will have heat problems and if you do, it's only the R/H side - easily fixed with alloy heat protective sheet (lofts, u'neath car bonnets etc).

[AllanB]

13 hours ago, thaiguzzi said:

IMHO the thing wants 8-10-12 cms cutting out the middle and weld it back together. You only need an inch (2.5cms in new money) clearance each side.

The thing is FAR TOO WIDE. Look at it from behind with the rucksacks attached compared to h/bar width - too wide.

Was'nt it Allan (and I agree) going on about BMW GS Bohemoths and their ridiculous width?

 I doubt you will have heat problems and if you do, it's only the R/H side - easily fixed with alloy heat protective sheet (lofts, u'neath car bonnets etc).

Well it is only the nearside that I can alter, then it will look very lopsided. This bag system is designed purely for touring (2up) and the whole thing is removable in 60 seconds. So we could leave the whole thing in the hotel room when we arrive.

 

I will see how it goes on a trip and modify if needs be, this is all a bit experimental.

 

If I was travelling alone it would be easy, just strap everything to the seat, with no increase in width, ....and I agree the Beama guys do look a little foolish. It's a macho thing, I am sure they buy these massive boxes ("galvanised garbage cans") and try to find things to fill them up. They have a shit load of horses, so think it all looks impressive. Copying the two Scottish/English celeb tossers, their money their choice, I guess.

 

 

 

Edited November 6, 2017 by AllanB

[AllanB]

I have a question, how popular are metric nuts and bolts in the USA now, do HD still use UNC/UNF, in the UK imperial fittings are all but gone. Don't know who else are not metrified??

 

The reason I ask is that I have just been down to buy a couple of HSS drills to replace the mild steel ones in a set I bought and everything is bloody feet and inches (and probably not high speed steel either TBN).

 

You cannot find a 5/16th nut or bolt anywhere so what are these drills for? 3 different brands all the same. 

[papa al]

HSS drill bits are in "bloody feet."?

 

[AllanB]

16 hours ago, papa al said:

HSS drill bits are in "bloody feet."?

 

Jeez, how did you do that, did it hurt?

[papa al]

Dunno.

Your post,

not mine.

[AllanB]

48 minutes ago, papa al said:

Dunno.

Your post,

not mine.

You mean "feet and inches", I was looking for the correct term for you Yanks, we call it imperial.

 

Anyway are HD and others now using metric threads? 

[VocalNeal]

22 hours ago, AllanB said:

I have a question, how popular are metric nuts and bolts in the USA now, do HD still use UNC/UNF, in the UK imperial fittings are all but gone. Don't know who else are not metrified??

 

The reason I ask is that I have just been down to buy a couple of HSS drills to replace the mild steel ones in a set I bought and everything is bloody feet and inches (and probably not high speed steel either TBN).

 

You cannot find a 5/16th nut or bolt anywhere so what are these drills for? 3 different brands all the same. 

Allan,

 

This is to placate all the Americans that come here and complain about everything.

In Aus. they used to call them Whenwees. 

 

That is the nice thing about Thailand one can buy metric or Imperial everything. Drills, nuts and bolts, steel etc.  so everyone can be happy. 

Here in the big B one can buy drills sized every 0.1 of a mm or by the 64th. I think the smallest drill I have is 1/64. 

 

Edited November 7, 2017 by VocalNeal

[AllanB]

4 minutes ago, VocalNeal said:

Allan,

 

This is to placate all the Americans that come here and complain about everything.

In Aus. they used to call them Whenwees. 

 

That is the nice thing about Thailand one can buy metric or Imperial everything. Drills, nuts and bolts, steel etc.  so everyone can be happy. 

Here in the big B one can buy drills sized every 0.1 of a mm or by the 64th. I think the smallest drill I have is 1/64. 

 

My point is that DoHome sell only metric nuts and bolts and only imperial drills. Seems odd.....not a bit like in the UK where we buy 3 metres of 4x2....No no.....

[VocalNeal]

3mm bolt fits in a 1/8in hole

6mm bolt fits in a 1/4in hole

12mm bolt fits in 1/2in hole

 

you tink too mus.

[thaiguzzi]

3 minutes ago, VocalNeal said:

3mm bolt fits in a 1/8in hole

6mm bolt fits in a 1/4in hole

12mm bolt fits in 1/2in hole

 

you tink too mus.

And an 8mm bolt fits in a 5/16" hole... And a 3/8" bolt fits in a 10mm hole. But not vise versa....

Just buy what you can get. Every decent mom'n'pop corner m/c shop and auto factors stock a good selection of fasteners, metric and imperial. Bare steel and BZP. I can get everything I need in my local market town. If I want stainless I have to go to Udon.

Oh, and HD still use UNC/UNF. Everyone else, inc Triumph use Metric.

[AllanB]

51 minutes ago, VocalNeal said:

3mm bolt fits in a 1/8in hole

6mm bolt fits in a 1/4in hole

12mm bolt fits in 1/2in hole

 

you tink too mus.

.....and the most popular 8mm? Not exactly great engineering and what about tapping sizes?

 

I know TIT.

[thaiguzzi]

4 hours ago, AllanB said:

.....and the most popular 8mm? Not exactly great engineering and what about tapping sizes?

 

I know TIT.

Jesus. Google is your friend, tapping drill for 8mm is 6.8mm. And that's off the top of my head......

[ktm jeff]

29 minutes ago, thaiguzzi said:

Jesus. Google is your friend, tapping drill for 8mm is 6.8mm. And that's off the top of my head......

tg keeps drill bits in his flat cap  ?.

[AllanB]

18 hours ago, thaiguzzi said:

And an 8mm bolt fits in a 5/16" hole... And a 3/8" bolt fits in a 10mm hole. But not vise versa....

Just buy what you can get. Every decent mom'n'pop corner m/c shop and auto factors stock a good selection of fasteners, metric and imperial. Bare steel and BZP. I can get everything I need in my local market town. If I want stainless I have to go to Udon.

Oh, and HD still use UNC/UNF. Everyone else, inc Triumph use Metric.

A 5/16" hole is 7.9mm, so I don't think so. A 3/8" drill is 9.5mm, so wrong again.

 

Just odd they sell imperial drills at all, a range of 5mm, 5.5mm, 6mm..and so makes much more sense.

 

 

[thaiguzzi]

33 minutes ago, AllanB said:

A 5/16" hole is 7.9mm, so I don't think so. A 3/8" drill is 9.5mm, so wrong again.

 

Just odd they sell imperial drills at all, a range of 5mm, 5.5mm, 6mm..and so makes much more sense.

 

 

Read my lips; a 3/8" bolt (one thou bigger than 9.5mm) will fit in a 10mm hole.

You've been on Google - very good.

If you are being pedantic, 7.9mm = 0.3110".

5/16" = 0.3125"

8mm = 0.3150"

I guarantee you drill a 5/16" hole with a hand held drill or even a pillar drill, you'll get an 8mm bolt in the hole.

Milling machine with a collet chuck a different matter.

Oh, whilst you've been on Google and got all pedantic, 9.5mm is a thou under 3/8" at 0.374".

I don't need Google 'cos I've just checked my Zeus book.

Next....

You also need to get out more and find better suppliers. Plenty of tool shops in Udon city sell every size drill bit you want in metric and imperial.

 

[VocalNeal]

22 hours ago, AllanB said:

.....and the most popular 8mm? Not exactly great engineering and what about tapping sizes?

 

I know TIT.

I think the clue is in the name of the store DoHome. NOT DoAutomotive or DoEngineering. 

 

Average home guys just drill holes! 

Edited November 8, 2017 by VocalNeal

[AllanB]

7 hours ago, thaiguzzi said:

Read my lips; a 3/8" bolt (one thou bigger than 9.5mm) will fit in a 10mm hole.

You've been on Google - very good.

If you are being pedantic, 7.9mm = 0.3110".

5/16" = 0.3125"

8mm = 0.3150"

I guarantee you drill a 5/16" hole with a hand held drill or even a pillar drill, you'll get an 8mm bolt in the hole.

Milling machine with a collet chuck a different matter.

Oh, whilst you've been on Google and got all pedantic, 9.5mm is a thou under 3/8" at 0.374".

I don't need Google 'cos I've just checked my Zeus book.

Next....

You also need to get out more and find better suppliers. Plenty of tool shops in Udon city sell every size drill bit you want in metric and imperial.

 

Not interested in reading your lips, you said and I quote "And an 8mm bolt fits in a 5/16" hole... And a 3/8" bolt fits in a 10mm hole."

1. So how do you get an M8 bolt in a 7.938mm hole, a 50 tonne press tool perhaps?

2. They don't sell 3/8" bolts or 10mm drills, so why does that matter.

 

There may be shops that sell metric drills, but the DIY shops around here sell imperial drills and metric bolts.

 

PS. 3/8" = 9.525 even worse and if you knew anything about very basic engineering you would know that you don't put an M8 bolt in and 8mm hole, you need a small amount of clearance. Certainly not an interference fit as you are suggesting.

Edited November 8, 2017 by AllanB