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Posted

After towing my car to the garage and getting a quote of 30.000 baht (overhaul) to fix the problem i brought it back home and investigated the problem myself.

The problem was a loud tinging sound which was hard to pinpoint. The garage was convinced it was inside the engine and i was convinced it was not because it sounded very high pitched and almost like a bell. If it was in side the engine it would sound dampened.

Well after a days work i found the culprit.

It was the EGR pipe that runs at the back of the engine. One side was broken and with the vibrations it was metal on metal making that sound.

I removed it and now would like to replace it.

 

 

And here the next problem starts.

After contacting Nissan, they say this part is not made anymore and is thus not available. I beg to differ as the whole point of spare parts is to service older cars.

 

Are there any good suppliers of parts in Thailand, maybe one that can send parts to my location in Prachuap City.

 

I found one on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/D22-Nissan-Navara-3-0-Zd30-Diesel-EGR-PIPE-Fits-2001-2007/253351553702?hash=item3afcedeaa6:g:UNEAAOSwU8JZqesZ&vxp=mtr, but that would not be my first choice as i would like to fix it more quickly.

 

Any help to locate this item is much appreciated!

ZD30 EGR pipe.jpg

Posted

If the flanges at both ends are in good shape, remove it, have a new piece welded in, replace.

And competent shop that does tube work can handle this. No worries if it is not mandrel bent.

Try local muffler place.

Posted

I considered that but that would involve more modifications as the pressure would increase and air mixture changes etc...

At the moment there is one open port on the exhaust manifold and one open before the EGR valve. Theoretically i could close both of them and this will cause all the exhaust fumes to go out of the exhaust. Not sure what kind of 'filters' there are between the exhaust manifold and the tailpipe, but i would expect to have at least some more back pressure and if there are 'filters', they would need to handle the increased amount of soot. This would then also need to be accounted for.

Maybe if there is a complete modification set, it would be worthwhile.

 

 

Posted
47 minutes ago, canthai55 said:

If the flanges at both ends are in good shape, remove it, have a new piece welded in, replace.

And competent shop that does tube work can handle this. No worries if it is not mandrel bent.

Try local muffler place.

One side is perfectly fine and the broken side is reasonably clean. It seems to be brazed, not welded.

It is certainly an option. My concern is about the competency as this pipe is pretty thin and brazing/welding if not done good might give a very weak bond which will cause the problem to reappear rather soon. 

 

edit: It should be possible to use some thicker tube to make the welding/brazing easier and stronger.It is rather a curvy piece with compounded curves. Again competency.....

At the moment i do not know somebody with that skill.

Posted

I am a bit puzzled why it broke. Both sides are firmly connected to the engine (left and right, the tube goes behind the engine). There is no difference in movement between those two points.

If you look at the picture there is a 'dent' on the left side. This should not be there.

I think that has been done to be able to mount the pipe while the engine is already mounted in the car. It looks like somebody hammered it a bit to make mounting it easier. The space behind the engine is tight. I also had some noise on the inside of the cab and now i suspect that it was this pipe that made contact with the metal work from the cabin.

There is however no proof of that as i would expect to see a spot on the metal that shows this.

It could be vibration, but the pipe is very light so it should not exert such big forces.

Confused.....

 

I actually have a oxy/acetylene torch so if all else fails i can give it a go myself. That would require some practice as i am not skilled enough to do thin pipe. :) 

Posted
1 hour ago, Khun Jean said:

I considered that but that would involve more modifications as the pressure would increase and air mixture changes etc...

At the moment there is one open port on the exhaust manifold and one open before the EGR valve. Theoretically i could close both of them and this will cause all the exhaust fumes to go out of the exhaust. Not sure what kind of 'filters' there are between the exhaust manifold and the tailpipe, but i would expect to have at least some more back pressure and if there are 'filters', they would need to handle the increased amount of soot. This would then also need to be accounted for.

Maybe if there is a complete modification set, it would be worthwhile.

 

 

Seems a common problem ... a comment I found ...

 

Good video. My pipe's broken and Nissan want $1,000 for a new one. What a rip off for a who cares part. The pipe no doubt is made in a slave factory somewhere in Asia for something like $20 a pop.

 

Plenty of info on youtube ... don't actually think that you have to worry and your oil will stay new looking for longer ...

 

I still have the EGR blanking plates for a 3Ltr New D-Max if anyone wants them ...

Posted

After reading a lot about blocking the EGR on a ZD30 enigen i did it last saturday. It was pretty easy to do, maybe a half hour job.

I made some blanking plates from16mm steel and used the flanges to clamp those plates. I just cut off the flange from the pipe.

The engine runs a lot smoother and is more responsive.

Especially in the low revs.

A great mod.

 

Posted
1 hour ago, Khun Jean said:

After reading a lot about blocking the EGR on a ZD30 enigen i did it last saturday. It was pretty easy to do, maybe a half hour job.

I made some blanking plates from16mm steel and used the flanges to clamp those plates. I just cut off the flange from the pipe.

The engine runs a lot smoother and is more responsive.

Especially in the low revs.

A great mod.

 

I found exactly the same on my V-Cross ... but the engine did take longer to warm up as after blanking no hot gasses passed through the EGR Cooler.

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