After years of struggling as to where to put stuff I have decided to build a shed. It will be on a flat tiled base that I already have ... size 2M by 4.5M. The water tank and pump were located there previously but I have already re-located both ... built a plinth 30cm deep with 9mm rebar installed.

 

I have subbed out to a contractor the steel work and roof. It will have 4*4's (3.2mm) at the four corners. In the front 4*2 for the door frame area and the rear will have two 4*2's to split the long length. So the longest length of block work should be about 1.6M. I have someone lined up to render but not to lay the blocks.. Yes it will have a couple of windows and a row of vent blocks high up at the rear. The roof will have some insulation.

 

There appears to be two ways of racking the 7mm AAC or ACC or whatever they are called. Either using, I think, cement gowe or a sand cement mix. Cement Gowe is the preferable method I think OR?

 

I also understand that every two rows you should tie into the steel work ... Is there a 'special' bracket for this or do I just tack weld a bit of the 9mm rebar that I have left over and slot the bottom of the next block. I have done some bricking back in the UK ...........

 

All suggestions gratefully received ...............................

 

 

 

 

Both Q Con and Diamond dealers can provide the OP with printed instructions. They both have plenty of instructional videos in Thai language on youtube. The metal ties are better that rebar for this application. Both Q Con and Diamond have metal reinforced lintels to go over your door openings and window openings. There are specific "glue' for AAC blocks from many companies. Also specific render to use also made by many companies for AAC blocks. It will be much cooler on any room made with AAC blocks. Good choice. 

Everything he said. And it cannot be stressed enough to follow the instructions. There are countless things you need to do that will make for a more successful project. And q-con has an english handbook on their web site. Quick shortcuts:

 

Do not use sand and cement with these blocks!

 

For edge fastening, special brackets or metal bars can be used. This short video shows both methods:

 

You can get the stainless steel straps at Global for 4bt each. Just bend them about third way and drive a self tapper into the steel.

Just rake out the top of the block a few mills to sink the strap in and nail it or screw it...i usually bang about 4 masnry nails in.

Every 3 or  4 course is more than ample generally but strap every 2 course if its abutting a door frame.

Only use standard mortar on the bottom course as a levelling bed, the adhesive mortar is designed to be only 2mm thick so useless on an uneven slab.

 

Just about everything you said does not meet the manufacturers specifications. You even got where to bend the strap wrong which is mind boggling. Not to mention the weaknesses, if someone does things you advocate and gets inspected they will fail. And think down the line if ever Thailand requires a building inspection for sale of a house you are screwed. What are your qualifications for making these recommendations? And why on earth should someone deliberately deviate from the simple, engineer approved instructions from the manufacturer?

 

On 4/22/2018 at 6:54 AM, canopy said:

Just about everything you said does not meet the manufacturers specifications. You even got where to bend the strap wrong which is mind boggling. Not to mention the weaknesses, if someone does things you advocate and gets inspected they will fail. And think down the line if ever Thailand requires a building inspection for sale of a house you are screwed. What are your qualifications for making these recommendations? And why on earth should someone deliberately deviate from the simple, engineer approved instructions from the manufacturer?

 

Well what a load of hot air with no pointers to what is wrong.

ican tell you that if you see the Thai way, they dont even strap them.

 

Your turn...enlighten me

Advocating following the manufacturer instructions in favor of making things up is not hot air. I think you got that backwards. The instructions say straps are to be used every other course, not every 3rd or 4th course. That's a pretty serious deviation. The instructions say the straps are to be bent and fastened as below. I don't understand what is so hard about just doing what they say to do.

 

 

On 4/22/2018 at 6:54 AM, canopy said:

inspected

is this word in the Thai dictionary 

23 hours ago, canopy said:

Advocating following the manufacturer instructions in favor of making things up is not hot air. I think you got that backwards. The instructions say straps are to be used every other course, not every 3rd or 4th course. That's a pretty serious deviation. The instructions say the straps are to be bent and fastened as below. I don't understand what is so hard about just doing what they say to do.

 

 

Only the fact that I'm using 3.2mm 4by4's at the corners (a few new drill bits maybe the order of the day)... it will be every two rows ... have put steel erector back until I have been to Architect Show to see if I want to change the roof material ...

 

Thanks all for the advice ...  looks like someone will win the rest of my 9mm re-bar that I was saving as was thinking of tack welding it for the straps ...