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[Misab]

I could use a little help, I have search for a Total price per square meter for a metal roof made with metal roof tiles with insulation underneath but cannot find any from 2017 - 2019. Also would you recommend any extra insulation underneath the tiles?

Can anyone here help.

I am talking about a new house therefore the whole roof construction with metal roof tiles.  Not work only materiels

 

 

Edited September 25, 2019 by Misab

[eyecatcher]

Metal sheets, they dont make steel tiles.

Profiled metal sheets start at about 180bt/m2

4*2 structural steel say  300bt/m2

Cheap 2" insulation 50bt/m2

 

Thats a cheap charlie building a shed standard.

Quality job, double it.

[Kwasaki]

4 hours ago, Misab said:

I have search for a Total price per square meter for a metal roof made with metal roof tiles with insulation underneath but cannot find any from 2017

Go to a shop where they sell the metal sheets that have tile profile looks and ask how much in the length.

Insulation under roof google it many ways of doing that. 

[cheeryble]

Get the sheets with the glued on 3mm foam with reflective coating.

Decent quality so the foam doesn't come off, but we felt no need for the best Bluescope..........if we have to change the sheet in 10 years or whenever it will be cheap, frame and fascias already there, the sheets up in a day.

Also didn't feel the need for hidden attachments.

If you combine the thinly (but surprisingly efficaciously) insulated sheet with above ceiling Rockwool you,ll be well insulated for heat and noise, I've now been through storms and its a pleasant muffled sound.

Go to a supplier he will calculate the prices quickly.

[cheeryble]

On September 25, 2019 at 6:18 PM, eyecatcher said:

Metal sheets, they dont make steel tiles.

Profiled metal sheets start at about 180bt/m2

4*2 structural steel say  300bt/m2

Cheap 2" insulation 50bt/m2

 

Thats a cheap charlie building a shed standard.

Quality job, double it.

Hey Mr Eye aren't the rafters on 120cm centres, and other 4x2 only at ridge and bottom, and valleys?

Does 300bt/m2 sound a lot?

[eyecatcher]

51 minutes ago, cheeryble said:

Hey Mr Eye aren't the rafters on 120cm centres, and other 4x2 only at ridge and bottom, and valleys?

Does 300bt/m2 sound a lot?

I certainly wouldnt ever set steel rafters at 1200c/c.

600/700/800 are the only sensible spacings.

I reckoned on an arbitrary 100bt/m for 1.8g box section or I.P.

Say 2.5no 1m lengths per m2=250bt

Then the extras, tiling rails, purlins, ridge, collars and ties and eaves, red oxide.

300bt/m2 is probably too low just for steel

[JimShortz]

I just had a single plane roof completed on a new build house. For an idea of costs, my roof at 26m x 9m was:

Covering: Bluescope colorbond galvanised steel, with white colour bonded on top and 25mm of bonded insulation underneath, cost just about exactly 100k Baht including delivery, flashing and and all fixings, but not including the actual installation (that was done by the people who constructed my steel roof frame as part of the price for the whole job).

 

Roof structure: all done with high quality steel box section at 2.6mm thickness, except battens at 2mm. The whole building area 26m x 7m had a 4" square ringbeam and the same beam down the centre of the building. The 3" x 1.5" rafters are them placed at 1.5m centres and 2" square battens on top at 1m centres. Rest assured that this is a super strong structure if done with good spec steel, and no cheap C sections. Painting, welding (excellent seam welding all "linear" joints in ringbeams, rafters and battens), installation of the Bluescope covering and flashings, and installation of fake wood fascia boards, by a really good team of three welders cost me B60k Baht in labour + about the same again for steel.

Total roof cost about 220k Baht - an absolute bargain for a very strong and highly insulated  and reflective roof!  And it's not noisy or hot at all either; the bonded insulation is fantastic.

PS, I originally planned it with 1m centres for the rafters and it was the main man at Lion Steel who said for this structure (only 3.5m between each ringbeam that the rafters cross) that was excessive. He said I could go as far at 2m, using quality steel of decent thickness, but I compromised at 1.5m and am super happy with the decision.

I also think I got great welding because the guys could seam weld the decent thickness steel (I weld fairly well myself, and thin steel is a bitch, it just melts away, leaving holes). I also bought them 10kg of good rods so that they wouldn't be shy with them!

 

Edited October 4, 2019 by JimShortz

[JimShortz]

I should've mentioned that the Bluescope steel roofing came from the place found at (18.761777, 99.041102). It doesn't seem to come up in any English search, but this is the main Bluescope place in Chiang Mai and the prices via them are comparable to non-Bluescope elsewhere. You will, of course, need a Thai speaker. We found their service and prices to be excellent, and with a large product range too.

If you buy Bluescope from anywhere else it is much more expensive. I don't know for sure, but I assume all of the other outlets are just resellers from this place - with associated price mark-up.

You're welcome...  ????

 

[cheeryble]

I should've mentioned that the Bluescope steel roofing came from the place found at (18.761777, 99.041102). It doesn't seem to come up in any English search, but this is the main Bluescope place in Chiang Mai and the prices via them are comparable to non-Bluescope elsewhere. You will, of course, need a Thai speaker. We found their service and prices to be excellent, and with a large product range too.

If you buy Bluescope from anywhere else it is much more expensive. I don't know for sure, but I assume all of the other outlets are just resellers from this place - with associated price mark-up.

You're welcome...  [emoji846]

 

Damn wish I’d known about yr Bluescope place before, we only bought the last of the sheet a couple of months ago


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[Misab]

On 9/25/2019 at 6:18 PM, eyecatcher said:

Metal sheets, they dont make steel tiles.

Profiled metal sheets start at about 180bt/m2

4*2 structural steel say  300bt/m2

Cheap 2" insulation 50bt/m2

 

Thats a cheap charlie building a shed standard.

Quality job, double it.

 

 

Edited October 8, 2019 by Misab

[Misab]

On 9/25/2019 at 6:18 PM, eyecatcher said:

Metal sheets, they dont make steel tiles.

Profiled metal sheets start at about 180bt/m2

4*2 structural steel say  300bt/m2

Cheap 2" insulation 50bt/m2

 

Thats a cheap charlie building a shed standard.

Quality job, double it.

Okay, maybe I am using wrong words, buy these are the one I mean

[Misab]

On 10/2/2019 at 5:09 PM, cheeryble said:

Get the sheets with the glued on 3mm foam with reflective coating.

Decent quality so the foam doesn't come off, but we felt no need for the best Bluescope..........if we have to change the sheet in 10 years or whenever it will be cheap, frame and fascias already there, the sheets up in a day.

Also didn't feel the need for hidden attachments.

If you combine the thinly (but surprisingly efficaciously) insulated sheet with above ceiling Rockwool you,ll be well insulated for heat and noise, I've now been through storms and its a pleasant muffled sound.

Go to a supplier he will calculate the prices quickly.

Thank you 

[Misab]

On 10/4/2019 at 2:03 PM, JimShortz said:

I just had a single plane roof completed on a new build house. For an idea of costs, my roof at 26m x 9m was:

Covering: Bluescope colorbond galvanised steel, with white colour bonded on top and 25mm of bonded insulation underneath, cost just about exactly 100k Baht including delivery, flashing and and all fixings, but not including the actual installation (that was done by the people who constructed my steel roof frame as part of the price for the whole job).

 

Roof structure: all done with high quality steel box section at 2.6mm thickness, except battens at 2mm. The whole building area 26m x 7m had a 4" square ringbeam and the same beam down the centre of the building. The 3" x 1.5" rafters are them placed at 1.5m centres and 2" square battens on top at 1m centres. Rest assured that this is a super strong structure if done with good spec steel, and no cheap C sections. Painting, welding (excellent seam welding all "linear" joints in ringbeams, rafters and battens), installation of the Bluescope covering and flashings, and installation of fake wood fascia boards, by a really good team of three welders cost me B60k Baht in labour + about the same again for steel.

Total roof cost about 220k Baht - an absolute bargain for a very strong and highly insulated  and reflective roof!  And it's not noisy or hot at all either; the bonded insulation is fantastic.

PS, I originally planned it with 1m centres for the rafters and it was the main man at Lion Steel who said for this structure (only 3.5m between each ringbeam that the rafters cross) that was excessive. He said I could go as far at 2m, using quality steel of decent thickness, but I compromised at 1.5m and am super happy with the decision.

I also think I got great welding because the guys could seam weld the decent thickness steel (I weld fairly well myself, and thin steel is a bitch, it just melts away, leaving holes). I also bought them 10kg of good rods so that they wouldn't be shy with them!

 

Thank you Jim

[cheeryble]

Okay, maybe I am using wrong words, buy these are the one I mean

 

Are those large red tiles or sheets insulated?

If not if I was you I would go for the regular metal sheet from top to bottom one piece Probably cheaper too .....And certainly nice to have that glued on thin insulation I don’t think you need to think of expensive stuff that’s profiled, Combined with Rockwool on the ceilings rock wool on the ceilings it’s great.

Your sheets will most likely involve wastage two as your Sheets are unlikely to fit exactly top to bottom where as the long metal sheets Are just cut to length

 

The following pic is some time ago now larger and neater

 

 

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[JimShortz]

1 hour ago, cheeryble said:

If not if I was you I would go for the regular metal sheet from top to bottom one piece Probably cheaper too .....And certainly nice to have that glued on thin insulation I don’t think you need to think of expensive stuff that’s profiled, Combined with Rockwool on the ceilings rock wool on the ceilings it’s great.

Your sheets will most likely involve wastage two as your Sheets are unlikely to fit exactly top to bottom where as the long metal sheets Are just cut to length

 

I certainly agree that single lengths is great to ensure a leak free roof, even in the fiercest storms. My lengths were 9.1m and almost unbelievably they came on a pickup with a special frame fitted (see picture earlier in the thread). I also agree that the 2 or 3mm glued on insulation with reflective foil massively cuts down heat transfer and deadens the sound of rain. I fitted it on my outdoor bathroom that I built ahead of building the main house and I am very happy with it. Mine's been on for a year and hasn't sagged or fallen apart yet, but I have seen many that have. I don't know how you go about choosing the good stuff? I guess I was just lucky. I bought that from Lion Steel in Hangdong, Chiang Mai. I'm glad to hear yours is working out well for you.

I also want to share in more detail, for anyone interested, the alternative way I chose for my main house:

For my main house I chose the "hard" bonded insulation from Bluescope and am super pleased with it. I also went for the foil bonded on its underside to prevent heat radiating downwards, but if you were leaving it exposed there is a paintable option too. The bonded insulation actually gives a flat ceiling to its underside and I have seen a friend leave this exposed on a "lean to" to his house and painted it to match the house - it actually gives a decent flat ceiling and looks good.

The real reasons I went with the 25mm bonded insulation is that it is much quieter during rain and very little heat passes through (25mm insulation makes a significant difference compared to a couple of mm). I have a gypsum ceiling fitted 8" below the roof (at the same angle) with no rockwool and have mosquito proof ventilation all the way along both the top and bottom eves.

The idea is that air enters at the bottom eve, passes between the gypsum and the well insulated roof covering, and any heat and moisture that is there leaves at the top eve. I have to say that it works really well - physics in action I guess! The idea behind no rockwool being installed is partly to save money on something not needed with this system, and also to let heat out through the gypsum at night. It seems that with the well insulated covering and good "attic space" ventilation the rockwool isn't needed - at least on my house (my gypsum ceilings are just at ambient temperature, even in the middle of the day). I also went for a white colour on top since the way my house is situated you never see the roof anyway, and it is by far the most reflective colour - again keeping the heat out of my tiny attic space!

My covering with the 25mm bonded insulation cost B100,000 including fixings for a roof of 26m x 9.1m (237 square metres). That works out at about B420 per square meter for covering (including fixings and flashings) with no loft insulation to buy. Not super cheap, but not bad either and is certainly one way to a quiet, cool, and cost effective roof. YMMV!  ????



 

[cheeryble]

I certainly agree that single lengths is great to ensure a leak free roof, even in the fiercest storms. My lengths were 9.1m and almost unbelievably they came on a pickup with a special frame fitted (see picture earlier in the thread). I also agree that the 2 or 3mm glued on insulation with reflective foil massively cuts down heat transfer and deadens the sound of rain. I fitted it on my outdoor bathroom that I built ahead of building the main house and I am very happy with it. Mine's been on for a year and hasn't sagged or fallen apart yet, but I have seen many that have. I don't know how you go about choosing the good stuff? I guess I was just lucky. I bought that from Lion Steel in Hangdong, Chiang Mai. I'm glad to hear yours is working out well for you.

 

I also want to share in more detail, for anyone interested, the alternative way I chose for my main house:

 

For my main house I chose the "hard" bonded insulation from Bluescope and am super pleased with it. I also went for the foil bonded on its underside to prevent heat radiating downwards, but if you were leaving it exposed there is a paintable option too. The bonded insulation actually gives a flat ceiling to its underside and I have seen a friend leave this exposed on a "lean to" to his house and painted it to match the house - it actually gives a decent flat ceiling and looks good.

 

The real reasons I went with the 25mm bonded insulation is that it is much quieter during rain and very little heat passes through (25mm insulation makes a significant difference compared to a couple of mm). I have a gypsum ceiling fitted 8" below the roof (at the same angle) with no rockwool and have mosquito proof ventilation all the way along both the top and bottom eves.

 

The idea is that air enters at the bottom eve, passes between the gypsum and the well insulated roof covering, and any heat and moisture that is there leaves at the top eve. I have to say that it works really well - physics in action I guess! The idea behind no rockwool being installed is partly to save money on something not needed with this system, and also to let heat out through the gypsum at night. It seems that with the well insulated covering and good "attic space" ventilation the rockwool isn't needed - at least on my house (my gypsum ceilings are just at ambient temperature, even in the middle of the day). I also went for a white colour on top since the way my house is situated you never see the roof anyway, and it is by far the most reflective colour - again keeping the heat out of my tiny attic space!

 

My covering with the 25mm bonded insulation cost B100,000 including fixings for a roof of 26m x 9.1m (237 square metres). That works out at about B420 per square meter for covering (including fixings and flashings) with no loft insulation to buy. Not super cheap, but not bad either and is certainly one way to a quiet, cool, and cost effective roof. YMMV!  [emoji846]

 

 

We had The roof on mom’s original bungalow and verandah I built extendedA couple of meters or so With no insulation as it’s just at the edge.

Where we joined Mum’s Bungy to the main new house with a room 3 m wide x 5m long on the back the guys have used what I think you’re talking about, a profiled firm insulation.

We will probably slap some Chiprock GYPROC underneath it as I think that insulation will be enough as in your case.

So the job will be to attach the Jip rock to the raftersThere. Do you think the best thing is to attach timbers 2*1 First with hard as nails glue then screw the chip rock or will the Jip rock screw straight into the rafters Which after all are quite light weight?

 

 

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[sometimewoodworker]

2 hours ago, cheeryble said:

We will probably slap some Chiprock GYPROC underneath it as I think that insulation will be enough as in your case.

So the job will be to attach the Jip rock to the raftersThere. Do you think the best thing is to attach timbers 2*1 First with hard as nails glue then screw the chip rock or will the Jip rock screw straight into the rafters Which after all are quite light weight?

What ever you do don't use timber, termites love it. You can get the metal strips easily and attach to that, the spacing is too wide to screw to directly.

 

also it looks as if it's outside so use cement board or some kind.

Edited October 10, 2019 by sometimewoodworker

[JimShortz]

Yes, I agree, not wood! The guys who installed my gypsum board (inside), and concrete board with mosquito proof ventilation holes (outside, under the eaves) installed a layer of light metal galvanised strips that are then screwed into directly through the board with no need for drilling. Mine are at 40cm centres to prevent sagging (at their recommendation), but 60cm centres is basically fine too - or so they told me.

Like this (and it is cheap as chips): 

 

[GarryP]

7 minutes ago, JimShortz said:

Yes, I agree, not wood! The guys who installed my gypsum board (inside), and concrete board with mosquito proof ventilation holes (outside, under the eaves) installed a layer of light metal galvanised strips that are then screwed into directly through the board with no need for drilling. Mine are at 40cm centres to prevent sagging (at their recommendation), but 60cm centres is basically fine too - or so they told me.

Like this (and it is cheap as chips): 

 

Could you post a pic of the concrete board with mosquito proof ventilation holes you used. I had not heard of them before. I am in the planning phase for my new house and trying to get as much info as possible before plans are drawn up. Actual build will start in a few years.

[JimShortz]

4 minutes ago, GarryP said:

Could you post a pic of the concrete board with mosquito proof ventilation holes you used. I had not heard of them before. I am in the planning phase for my new house and trying to get as much info as possible before plans are drawn up. Actual build will start in a few years.

I don't have a better pic to hand, but you can just about see it at the far left of the picture. On the hidden side it has what is effectively strong mossie screen "tape" stuck over the rows of holes (it appears to be epoxyed in place). Not many places in Chiag Mai have it, but I know Global House now stocks it. I wanted it to keep the geckos out of my roof space!

[JimShortz]

...actually, probably clearer on this one:

 

 

[GarryP]

Just now, JimShortz said:

...actually, probably clearer on this one:

 

 

 

Thanks. Appreciated.

[JimShortz]

1 minute ago, GarryP said:

Thanks. Appreciated.

If your planning a house, also note the 3 high level "exhaust holes".  They have Mitsubishi extractor fans on the inside and are plugged into smart plugs so that in the early hours of the morning, when the outside air is coolest, they pull in air via vents in the opposite side of the house (the low side) and blow out the hot air from the highest point of my ceilings . It is AMAZING how much cooler they make the house; for almost free - the best thing I fitted! 

My roof is single plane, so those forced fan vents make a heap of sense. Having ventilation in the cement board of both the bottom and top eves also creates a natural air current between my roof and the gypsum boards - gotta love natural cooling (supplemented by AC when needed, of course!). Single plane roofs may not be beautiful, but they sure are practical!

[cheeryble]

Yes, I agree, not wood! The guys who installed my gypsum board (inside), and concrete board with mosquito proof ventilation holes (outside, under the eaves) installed a layer of light metal galvanised strips that are then screwed into directly through the board with no need for drilling. Mine are at 40cm centres to prevent sagging (at their recommendation), but 60cm centres is basically fine too - or so they told me.

Like this (and it is cheap as chips): 
 

The light galvanized strips need to be screwed with holes into the rafter? And the self tappers thru gypyroc into Galvanised strips?


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[JimShortz]

6 minutes ago, cheeryble said:

The light galvanized strips need to be screwed with holes into the rafter? And the self tappers thru gypyroc into Galvanised strips?

 

Yes, exactly that - nice and simple. You can buy those strips from Global House, or any of the other big building suppliers.

[sometimewoodworker]

39 minutes ago, cheeryble said:

 

The light galvanized strips need to be screwed with holes into the rafter? And the self tappers thru gypyroc into Galvanised strips?


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The light galvanised strips to the steel use self tappers the concrete board can use self tappers or plasterboard screws. Although if the board is thick then the special concrete board self tappers are needed

Edited October 11, 2019 by sometimewoodworker

[JimShortz]

Actually, looking at where your connecting room appears to be, you may well be able to use water resistant gypsum boards instead of concrete boards. This is what is fitted on my outside roof extension and in my indoor bathrooms. This is much more resistant to humidity than regular gypsum, and you are still able to finish it nicely (concrete board, unfortunately, you can always still see the joins).

You will need to drill through the galvanised strips into the rafters, unless your rafters are made of toffee, lol. With my 2.6mm thick steel rafters they had to be drilled for sure, then self tapping screws into those holes.

[cheeryble]

Two conflicting answers but still much appreciated You both have your own experience. As the rafters are short And came from the local village crew they’re probably then they are probably thin.

As for concrete board don’t think necessary JS don’t forget there is a metal sheet roof above and then the profiled insulation clued in glued gluedIn there certainly won’t be any leakage and Doubt any condensation… But perhaps it wouldn’t Hurt to use the green Chiprock For a few baht extra.

Only other question is what centers to put the horizontally placed galvanized strips on to leave the joins in the plasterboard short enough they won’t crack open.I would guess 40 cm?

 

 

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[JimShortz]

8 minutes ago, cheeryble said:

Two conflicting answers but still much appreciated You both have your own experience. As the rafters are short And came from the local village crew they’re probably then they are probably thin.

As for concrete board don’t think necessary JS don’t forget there is a metal sheet roof above and then the profiled insulation clued in glued gluedIn there certainly won’t be any leakage and Doubt any condensation… But perhaps it wouldn’t Hurt to use the green Chiprock For a few baht extra.

Only other question is what centers to put the horizontally placed galvanized strips on to leave the joins in the plasterboard short enough they won’t crack open.I would guess 40 cm?

Yes, with thin "village spec" rafters you may be able to self-tap. I have no experience of this. I was determined to build mine to out last me  ????

Yes, the green boards don't cost much more, why not... My galvanised strips are at 40cm centres, but 60cm can work fine too - or so my guys told me. Again, for the extra few Baht why not go for 40cm and play it safe.  ????

[MikeN]

23 hours ago, GarryP said:

Could you post a pic of the concrete board with mosquito proof ventilation holes you used. I had not heard of them before. I am in the planning phase for my new house and trying to get as much info as possible before plans are drawn up. Actual build will start in a few years.

Something like this : https://store.scg.com/products/P1999132/สมาร์ทบอร์ด-แคปซูลระบายอากาศ-ขนาด-60x120x0-4-ซม