Installing new downlights in plasterboard/ gyprock ceiling

[charliechoc]

The electric guy did the new wiring for our downlights. Insulation bats have been laid. I created a space to avoid any fire issues. ie I moved the insulation bats away about double the size of the downlights. Is that enough? (question 1)

 

The electrician pulled out the instructions from the downlight box and pointed towards the picture of a small 'terminal box'. He said he would buy this and put one with each downlight. I noticed there was not one on the box with the downlight. 

 

Que 2: Is this absolutely necessary? In another building a few yrs ago doing the same job the sparkie didnt wire in a terminal box. He just attached the wire and that was it. 

 

Finally, the wire is hanging through the new gyprock ceiling. Q3: If he cuts the hole in the wrong spot is this easy for our ceiling guy to come back and fix? Im assuming it is????

 

thanks

[talahtnut]

Q1  I chose 1' all way round, if you're

using LEDs they dont generate a great

heat unlike the old bulbs. mine are 3w.

Q2 Little terminal block would be the

correct method, I didn't bother with em

just wired all 8 parallel, lazy I know, but

been going 3 years ok.

Q3 Not a big problem to patch up PB.

 

[Crossy]

A proper terminal block makes it easier to replace a unit when it fails.

 

The ceiling chaps can make invisible repairs, they're pretty amazing actually.

 

[millymoopoo]

Always ensure there is an air gap around the downlight (no insulation covering them over), you would have noticed on the older halogen type this air gap was around the reflector/bulb itself and another around it's holder/gimbal and thus would need to have been implemented above the light (through the insulation) to be effective.

The same applies to LED downlights but to a lesser extent as the heat generated by them is less.

NEVER cover them over with a terminal box as it stops the airflow, this is why no terminal boxes are supplied with the light.

LED lights can and do overheat, and can catch fire just as a halogen one can, but most often from the electrical control unit not the LED itself.

[Seeall]

6 hours ago, Crossy said:

A proper terminal block makes it easier to replace a unit when it fails.

 

The ceiling chaps can make invisible repairs, they're pretty amazing actually.

 

depends if u pay em up front or not....  once moneys in pocket its bam slam...

[Tropposurfer]

Separate transformer for each light.

I’d allow 100mm all around the led fitting.

*** Don’t just push the insulation back cut it neatly away!!!

In previous houses I owned in Aussie we hung the transformers from the roof trusses then wires down to LED’s so the transformers did not touch anything as these get damn hot too (Depending on quality).

I wouldn’t put the transformers on or near the insulation or resting near any timber or other flammable items.

individual transformers fur each light otherwise a nightmare to isolate which wiring, light is faulty.

most cheaper transformers last maybe 5 to absolute max 10 years so install with the idea of regular inspections and ease of replacement.

Make sure your main power box has top quality circuit breakers too!

[xtrnuno41]

A connection box is not needed, it's nice.

What kind of downlight you have? Is it LED or just PLC or halogene lamps?

What is the power you use for the downlight lamps? IS it on 230 volts or lower? Lower you need a transformer in case of halogene lamps.

 

IF it is a LED light you need a LED driver, which controls power. The LED driver can be built in, with the lamp, mostly DC volt LED 

but can also have an tiny external box, which you have to put in serie with your LED light. Mostly for LED lights on 230 volts.

No LED driver means, your lights can easily burn up fast and then you have to start again.

 

In the manual of the light you saw a little box for fitting, THat could be the LED driver, but normally the LED driver 

would be delivered including with the LED light. As the down lights are mostly spreaded over the ceiling, each LED light has its own LED driver. 

 

For heat generating, the more Watt's you have the higher the temperature. All depends on power consumption of the lights.

Never the less, aswell for LED lights you need some cooling space. Temperature effects also the LED's lifespan, thats why also LED drivers.  

Mostly in the manual, they will give you the minimum free space the light needs. LEDS arent normally in high amount of power. like 3, 5, 9 watts.

If you compare with halogene or PLC lamps, the heat generated by LED's are less then other types of lamps. More efficient.

Though you do have LEDS 20,30 ,50 watts and higher, which will need more space but mostly are stand alone and not built in.