3 hours ago, Mama Noodle said:

 

Last question for now ????

 

What about if the sucker breaks or stops working, say, in the middle of the night and its not a thermal/current overload, its a parts failure - is there a simple re-config? Or would a solution require getting into the CU and moving wires in the middle of the night? 

 

Trying to look ahead and avoid drama down the road. 

I would have some lights group before the AVR.

Have some lights here happily operating between 85v and 250v.

That way you would not wandering about in the dark if the AVR tripped or the under/over voltage device kicking in.

 

6 hours ago, Mama Noodle said:

This means that its not possible to have them both sides closed at the same time, correct? In other words, if you flip one side, the other, opposite side will flip the opposite way? 

 

Both "on" is a prohibited condition and trying to turn one on will trip the other to "off" if it's on.

 

BUT

 

Testing showed that both can be on briefly during the switch over. One needs to go through the both-off phase for safety. It's not perfect by any means but it's cheap.

 

@Crossy switching just L as you diagrammed makes sense. For N, just stub out from main in to AVR input and leave whatever in place from main in to CU?  Or?? 

1 minute ago, bankruatsteve said:

@Crossy switching just L as you diagrammed makes sense. For N, just stub out from main in to AVR input and leave whatever in place from main in to CU?  Or?? 

 

Yup, assuming N really is N then it's fine and safe.