Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
  On 7/23/2020 at 8:43 AM, Metropolitian said:

 

Or where is the 8 shaped hole in the wood beam?

 

Will the bed be positioned at that location? Consider keeping one of the outlets below, you can switch that outlet by adding one more switch with the other two (you can have 3 in a row).

And the setup for the led strip at that outlet below or the bed.

Many led strips are powered by a adapter, but there do exist led strips working on 220v.  Either way it is useful to have a power outlet near where you will mount the led strip.

Colored ledstrips has 4 or 5 (with warm white included) wires. DC distance over wire is best kept short.

 

Expand  

i am working on everything as i talk and think, so the 8 hole wasnt in the picture yet and it turned out to be a wooden square where I will just mount it on a sheet of thin plywood
80nPEAS.jpgsCjRcEb.jpg

 

and I will not widen the alcove, i was so happy i was finished as it makes a lot of dust and noise, also I am not really the most prefered one by my juristic, if you want to read up on that (there's a thread about that if you are interested, called where to buy shower niche/lintel).

Actually, I want to replace the light switch with a smart switch, probably by koogeek (koogeek sucks hard, but it works and is much cheaper than lightwave RF).
it has only a two way switch. But now I think of it, it might be cool to control the led strips seperately.... hmmmmz hahah Anyways I really want it to be smart via siri, any ideas?

 

edit: as you can see the space is really tight there, do i really need ajunction box? 

Posted

First thing I would do would be to rewire with correct colors.

 

If you want a smart switch, I've been doing Tasmota on Tyua compatible stuff, but you need to be savvy with tech to do it. In any case, here: https://tasmota.github.io/docs/ . Connect to a Home Assistant box (https://www.home-assistant.io/), CCP spyware not included. I use Android assistant for voice control, not sure how iOS integrates but it probably does. Happy hacking.

  • Like 1
Posted

As an electrical inspector, I'm speechless. I sincerely would not know where to begin in trying to be of help.

In the USA, every splice must happen in a listed box and every box must be accessible with a cover.

But I know... TIT.

Posted
  On 7/23/2020 at 11:36 PM, ding said:

As an electrical inspector, I'm speechless. I sincerely would not know where to begin in trying to be of help.

In the USA, every splice must happen in a listed box and every box must be accessible with a cover.

But I know... TIT.

Expand  

Mind to share some knowledge? So a listed box is a junction box right?
What else? you are free to scatter random thoughts XD

Posted

I'm not a fan of placing sockets right next to switches, easy to flip one by accident when plugging in and it's a bit ugly. I'd give at least 15cm between the switches and sockets or simply keep all sockets near floor level. Not sure if there's going to be a table or something there though.

  • Like 1
Posted
  On 7/24/2020 at 12:44 PM, Metropolitian said:

You want them there?

Consider taking out or modify that square and put in a long wall mount box.
I have bought mine on Shopee at 'pjrelectric' ,

The box : click here

The plate: click here

 

image.png.cf9db4efa68485129141fdbdee7fbb25.png

wcd_alt.jpg.1c6ec822ed5c94f1501fcc000d3ebee6.jpg

Expand  

This post really inspire me, the amount of detail u put in someone else's work without reward is insane. Are you around onnut, Ill buy you dinner hahah!
Also thanks so much for sharing that junction box and link. Whats your background? Your drawings are so clear and detailed! how did you get to where you are now and is this just a hobby for you (helping out electric rookies ;D, saving peoples life etc)?

@DrTuner Thanks for your opinion, I was planning  to do a smart switch at the top and there 5cm under the sockets. I want to maximize the space so no table within hand reach, as minimal as possible. We tend to still charge our phones with cables, otherwise I might consider digging a bit of wall and put a wireless charger underneath the horizontal part in the alcove and eliminating the sockets... just a future thought tho, since I dont really chase mobile phones... still on iphone 7 here hahaha
 

  • Like 1
Posted
  On 7/23/2020 at 12:50 PM, DrTuner said:

I've been doing Tasmota on Tyua compatible stuff,

Expand  

Plus one for Tasmota on Tyua IOT  devices  though these days it seems you'll have to get the soldering iron out to "flash" the new firmware instead of doing it via WiFi as they (Tyua) have added some encryption to thwart that on the latest devices.

Posted
  On 7/25/2020 at 7:53 AM, johng said:

Plus one for Tasmota on Tyua IOT  devices  though these days it seems you'll have to get the soldering iron out to "flash" the new firmware instead of doing it via WiFi as they (Tyua) have added some encryption to thwart that on the latest devices.

Expand  

Yes, I had to solder the header and use a TTL-USB serial adapter to flash a couple of later models. It's not as convenient as the OTA, but I got the gear so not a biggy. Some lights that are glued together might be a problem.

 

Better get old stock from some obscure seller, they can still be programmed via OTA.

  • Like 1
Posted

SW8EGWd.jpg

A small update, also to check if I did everything correct.
I bought the authentic wago's to support their business!
hmm the small pipe between junction box and backbox is loose,shall I just remove it and let the wires loose there or is it okay as it is?
currently waiting for a smart dimmer and the backbox for it.
By the way I had problems with opening up the holes on the junction box, i tried to slam it with a flat screwdriver and hammer but it didn't break open, so I just cut it open and its not neat at all. I also dont have the pvc pipe connectors for it. I think those are just minor and can be neglected. Please correct me if anything is wrong! Thanks
 

Posted

A Ty-wrap is good for securing wires just outside the box and another just inside.  Don't know about problem opening the holes. I've not had the issue. Cheers. 

Posted

The "holes" in some PVC boxes aren't knock-out. I always drill mine using a spade bit intended for wood, but just cut out should be OK.

 

High-carbon-Steel-6-30mm-Drill-Wood-Flat

 

 

  • Like 2

"I don't want to know why you can't. I want to know how you can!"

Posted
  On 8/6/2020 at 12:19 AM, Polarizing said:

Do I need a 3 holed wago in order to control 2 ledstrips at different locations ????

Expand  

A Wago is a connector (not a switch).  If, for example, you want a switch to control the on/off of two separated loads, you could use a 3 hole Wago to connect the output from the switch to the two loads.

  • Like 1
Posted
  On 8/4/2020 at 11:30 AM, Polarizing said:

SW8EGWd.jpg

A small update, also to check if I did everything correct.
I bought the authentic wago's to support their business!
hmm the small pipe between junction box and backbox is loose,shall I just remove it and let the wires loose there or is it okay as it is?
currently waiting for a smart dimmer and the backbox for it.
By the way I had problems with opening up the holes on the junction box, i tried to slam it with a flat screwdriver and hammer but it didn't break open, so I just cut it open and its not neat at all. I also dont have the pvc pipe connectors for it. I think those are just minor and can be neglected. Please correct me if anything is wrong! Thanks
 

Expand  

The plastic box on the left wouldn't hurt the wiring but the metal box on the right can.

Officially the wiring should be protected with a grommet in the hole of the box, but a cable gland or a conduit hose connector can do the same.

 

Grommet:

F1879453-01.jpg.6a735978eaed87fe78bfa29b48ad2766.jpg

 

For DIY like this, you can , unorthodoxially, use something else wrapped around the wiring.

I always kept some stripped off insulation sheets from a bigger cable. (those grey VMVK cables) in the  bitsbox here.

And I remember even used a piece of a garden hose in narrow situation once when I didn't had a flexible electrical hose at hand at request to fix something in short time while visiting family. ????

As long the metal doesn't penetrate the wiring insulation.

 

Looking at the picture, try to use a 90' tube connector instead of the one you use now.

image.png.4a4280fc58b7cea045c97997436d0199.png

 

 

I am using a flex hose for these situations, and have always a roll in stock.

PVC-flexible-conduit-01.jpg.0cdcb206f137428cc0394a357c9612d6.jpg

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
  On 8/7/2020 at 6:43 AM, Metropolitian said:

The plastic box on the left wouldn't hurt the wiring but the metal box on the right can.

Officially the wiring should be protected with a grommet in the hole of the box, but a cable gland or a conduit hose connector can do the same.

 

Grommet:

F1879453-01.jpg.6a735978eaed87fe78bfa29b48ad2766.jpg

 

For DIY like this, you can , unorthodoxially, use something else wrapped around the wiring.

I always kept some stripped off insulation sheets from a bigger cable. (those grey VMVK cables) in the  bitsbox here.

And I remember even used a piece of a garden hose in narrow situation once when I didn't had a flexible electrical hose at hand at request to fix something in short time while visiting family. ????

As long the metal doesn't penetrate the wiring insulation.

 

Looking at the picture, try to use a 90' tube connector instead of the one you use now.

image.png.4a4280fc58b7cea045c97997436d0199.png

 

 

I am using a flex hose for these situations, and have always a roll in stock.

PVC-flexible-conduit-01.jpg.0cdcb206f137428cc0394a357c9612d6.jpg

 

 

Expand  

Thanks, that flexhose is def a great idea as im too lazy to bend the tube using heat (don't have a heatgun and hairdryers was not enough). As for the grommet, I checked the metal back box and it isn't that sharp. I will take that risk or jam some electrical tape around it. I also checked the wiring with my other koogeek smart dimmer and it works. 1 Hot, L1, L2 and a Neutral, the Neutral is a 1.5, i think it doesnt matter right? since it is only used to slightly power the dimmer so it stays connected.

Posted
  On 8/7/2020 at 2:42 PM, Polarizing said:

Thanks, that flexhose is def a great idea as im too lazy to bend the tube using heat (don't have a heatgun and hairdryers was not enough). 

Expand  

Fill with sand, plug ends and use the gas stove. I have a heatgun but that's how I'd do it in a pinch. PVC doesn't need a lot of heat, you'll feel it give. And use very dry sand of course unless you want to create an explosion.

  • Haha 1
Posted
  On 8/7/2020 at 4:38 PM, DrTuner said:

Fill with sand, plug ends and use the gas stove. I have a heatgun but that's how I'd do it in a pinch. PVC doesn't need a lot of heat, you'll feel it give. And use very dry sand of course unless you want to create an explosion.

Expand  

i did it with water before, just dont like the mess it creates hahaha, and i dont have a gas stove either.

Posted
  On 8/8/2020 at 11:04 AM, bankruatsteve said:

The many good ones just don't work for upcountry peanuts.

Expand  

Ok they are earning good money...Is there a  list of "officially" approved and registered Thai electricians

somewhere on the interweb (or any where)  we can find them ?

Posted
  On 8/8/2020 at 11:09 AM, johng said:

Ok they are earning good money...Is there a  list of "officially" approved and registered Thai electricians

somewhere on the interweb (or any where)  we can find them ?

Expand  

Crossy probably knows. About a year ago (?) Thailand started a certification system but haven't seen much more on that. 

Posted
  On 8/8/2020 at 11:09 AM, johng said:

Ok they are earning good money...Is there a  list of "officially" approved and registered Thai electricians

somewhere on the interweb (or any where)  we can find them ?

Expand  

There is no list but most of them are working for EGAT, PEA, MEA and big companies many will take private extra work. One thing that could help is completing your profile so letting others know which area you are in.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.




×
×
  • Create New...