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Honda Cbr150


Crow Boy

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Boxer....nah!!! I dont consider can compare as a sport bike

The Nija 250 although nice is not the increase in performance for the extra money.

The Kawasaki ER6N I dont like but the FR6N may??.... be ok .......but really cannot compare with a 4cyl 600 CBR or Yammy

Don't knock the Ninjette until you've tried one. The 250cc Kwackerzaki will piss all over Brand H's CBR150. Naturally it costs more too :)

Understand not liking the looks for the ER6n - it's kind of a love it hate it kinda thing. Though once you've ridden one you may no longer care what it looks like as you can't get the perma-grin off your face :D At only 225k Baht it's the best big bike deal in Thailand hands down.

"FR6N" is suppsed to be ER6f??? The ER6f ABS will sell below 280k Baht again making it a tremendous value compared to any new 600cc import.

Cannot compare the ER6 with 4 cylinder 600cc bikes? Hmmm, the parallel twin in the ER6 may not crank out as many horsepower as most inline 4's, but it beats most of them in torque. Depending on what kind of riding you do, the ER6 is often better suited to tight twisties, but yes, it is at a disadvantage on the straights...

Happy Trails!

Tony

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Hi folks.. this is a very informative thread indeed. i've learned a lot. Btw., does anyone have experience using E10 (ethanol mixed fuel). They're phasing out regular unleaded fuel here in the Philippines and repacing them all with ethanol based fuel.

I've heard this is only advisable for Electronic / Fuel Injection engines, and not for those like our CBRs. It's been said that the ethanol tends to melt, corrode, or deteriorate the over all peformance of the bike over time.

Any thoughts you folks might what to share? TIA!

Edited by songoku777
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My local Honda dealership stated flatly (as in these are the facts; take them or leave them) that if the tank or manual doesn't say anything other than benzine (petrol, gas, whatever) DON'T USE IT. I've actually ran a couple of tanks through it, however the loss in performance and economy quickly prompted a return to real dino-juice.

Using ethanol can corrode metal parts, eat plastic float bowls, destroy rubber lines, and could in extreme cases cause a sufficiently lean condition to burn a hole in your piston.

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Boxer....nah!!! I dont consider can compare as a sport bike

The Nija 250 although nice is not the increase in performance for the extra money.

The Kawasaki ER6N I dont like but the FR6N may??.... be ok .......but really cannot compare with a 4cyl 600 CBR or Yammy

Don't knock the Ninjette until you've tried one. The 250cc Kwackerzaki will piss all over Brand H's CBR150. Naturally it costs more too :)

Understand not liking the looks for the ER6n - it's kind of a love it hate it kinda thing. Though once you've ridden one you may no longer care what it looks like as you can't get the perma-grin off your face :D At only 225k Baht it's the best big bike deal in Thailand hands down.

"FR6N" is suppsed to be ER6f??? The ER6f ABS will sell below 280k Baht again making it a tremendous value compared to any new 600cc import.

Cannot compare the ER6 with 4 cylinder 600cc bikes? Hmmm, the parallel twin in the ER6 may not crank out as many horsepower as most inline 4's, but it beats most of them in torque. Depending on what kind of riding you do, the ER6 is often better suited to tight twisties, but yes, it is at a disadvantage on the straights...

Happy Trails!

Tony

Tony I do agree with you on all points.....

No "over the counter" single 150 can hope to keep up with a twin 250 The point I was making was from my perspective.... that for me commuting on sukumvit Rayong/Pattaya every day the 250 wouldnt actually arrive much sooner than the 150 For the extra 100k is it worth it? Plus of course the extra gas used.

The kawa 650 N is a personal thing as far as likeing the style...but also as many have mentioned the wind buffeting is tiring after a while....I need do a hard days work after arriving at work not feel tired before I get there.

I think the F is the best choice...value for money style comfort etc. But again the extra gas everyday does add up.....but put down to satifaction ...... :D I think covered.

But again...really my trip would be how much faster than the CBR150?? No cars beat me on that trip in rush hour on the 150.....on the open road bits....sure the 650 can open up much more....but in the city traffic the 150 may? even be faster???

Ive never ridden a ninjette or N so cannot really back up my point of view.....but I know when I rent a 600 H or Y I save maybe if lucky 10 minutes on the trip. (should rent the kwakers and check them out I guess)

I will never ever take full advantage of the performance available from the 600s ......Prudence steps in far before that point...especially with a rented bike!! But the smoothness of the 4cyl bike is heaven after the single 150!!! so is the extra almost 100hp hehehe...wow!

How do the twins compare for smoothness?

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Ummmmm. I wonder what they changed on the 2008!. maybe just the tank sticker or maybe some internal components in the carb and the fuel lines and etc, etc. It would be interesting to find out......

Edited by thaicbr
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My local Honda dealership stated flatly (as in these are the facts; take them or leave them) that if the tank or manual doesn't say anything other than benzine (petrol, gas, whatever) DON'T USE IT. I've actually ran a couple of tanks through it, however the loss in performance and economy quickly prompted a return to real dino-juice.

Using ethanol can corrode metal parts, eat plastic float bowls, destroy rubber lines, and could in extreme cases cause a sufficiently lean condition to burn a hole in your piston.

Thanks for this information man. 90% (if im not mistaken) of petrol stations in the Philippines now have a mix of E10 (10% ethanol) in their fuels. :) And before this year ends, they target 100% E10 use. You folks in Thailand are lucky to still be able to use your CBR150s without worrying about it.

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My local Honda dealership stated flatly (as in these are the facts; take them or leave them) that if the tank or manual doesn't say anything other than benzine (petrol, gas, whatever) DON'T USE IT. I've actually ran a couple of tanks through it, however the loss in performance and economy quickly prompted a return to real dino-juice.

Using ethanol can corrode metal parts, eat plastic float bowls, destroy rubber lines, and could in extreme cases cause a sufficiently lean condition to burn a hole in your piston.

By 2008 model year, the CBR150 was designed for E10, which I use in my 2008 and get about 35 or 36 km/l.

Ummmmm. I wonder what they changed on the 2008!. maybe just the tank sticker or maybe some internal components in the carb and the fuel lines and etc, etc. It would be interesting to find out......

Thanks for this information guyz. I did buy my CBR in july 2008. I wonder if it's good for E10 already. Peace, how long have you been using E10 ..notice any rubbers falling apart? Any change in performance? It's been noted by some Honda Wave users.. and other small bikes, that E10 causes hard starting, loss of power, not to mention more costly since Alcohol evaporates from your tank :)

Btw anyone got a good idea of how to improve the CBR150's performance given only these three choices: .. and which do you folks think would have the most obvious improvement..

1. Aftermarket open pipe

2. An open carb (unrestricted air filter)

3. Racing CDI (stage 1)

Btw., for affordable but acceptable quality tires.. i'd suggest Swallow Tires. Im just not sure if they sell it there. Not as fancy and prestigious as Pilots or Sport Demons, but definitely better grip than the stock IRC Eagle Grips ^^ [CLICK HERE]

TIA!

Edited by songoku777
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The pipe i would say, a bigger pipe and rejetting the carb would give you the most for the money if you go by the choices you mentioned.

CDI is nice but if you forget to change gear after 14k or so ( running with stock piston etc.. ) you will blow your engine which is costly ~10k bht :)

Carb you would need the pipe or even a bore up to get alot of change.. if you remove the airbox it will certainly get the polices attention also ( sound will increase alot! )... + it would loose power in 6th gear in the high rpms, at least thats what i noticed.

/peace

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The pipe i would say, a bigger pipe and rejetting the carb would give you the most for the money if you go by the choices you mentioned.

CDI is nice but if you forget to change gear after 14k or so ( running with stock piston etc.. ) you will blow your engine which is costly ~10k bht

Carb you would need the pipe or even a bore up to get alot of change.. if you remove the airbox it will certainly get the polices attention also ( sound will increase alot! )... + it would loose power in 6th gear in the high rpms, at least thats what i noticed.

/peace

My first tank was E10 and so were almost all the others on my 2008 stock CBR. No problems, after 7800 km; but the 2003 model that always ran on benzene was plagued with carb problems for the last 15K.

Thanks for the info phobic. I did try a semi-open pipe. Actually it IS open but with less noise ..the orig DBS or Edurance wakes up the dead. I did some carb tuning and made the sprocket ratios bigger. Very good improvement, but i noticed @ 11500 - 12000 rpm.. it bogs down a bit .. could it mean it's asking for a racing CDI? :) ..but yes i see your point in revving the engine too much ..it'd be horrible for me to imagine i just blew my engine.

About E10, there are two major things to worry about :

1. loss of power (since those are designed for EFI engines)

2. deterioration of internal components

Btw i just dug up my CBR150 manual and this is what it said ...

cbr150e10.jpg

... You're right peace, i think newer model CBR150s can run on E10.

Only potential loss of power? ..i've yet to try it myself.

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I cannot detect a loss of power when using E10.

"...I noticed @ 11500 - 12000 rpm.. it bogs down a bit .. could it mean it's asking for a racing CDI? :) ..but yes i see your point in revving the engine too much ..it'd be horrible for me to imagine i just blew my engine."

Peak power may be at 11,000...not sure a racing CDI would change that. There may be damage after the red line.

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CDI doesnt change the powerband in the engine.. just the limit. what sparkplug did you use when you detected that it lost power? It could be that you need the sparkplug to be hotter?

I use a aftermarket pipe with the stock can ( modded to flow more air but keep the dB down abit ) which works great. I just saw on faddybike that they have a converter for the stock can and a aftermarket pipe which looks nice, dont know about the price though but my guess is a few thou bht. Im very tempted to buy the new fairing set they have there and the swing arm ( pro-arm ) :)

If you getting a unlimited CDI i would recommend to change some parts in the engine too like piston, connection rod etc.. as the stock piston will blow for sure if you rev it to much ( its hard not to since it has "alot" of power 12k+ rpm :D ). I wonder if there is a CDI with a limit at 14.5k.. would be nice.

I use 14/44 sprockets on my bike, which is the best combo i have tried so far... but im a light rider so it doesnt loose to much power in 6th.. 15/44 is also nice, gave some more power in 6th but not worth the lost accleration for me.

/peace

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the rev limiter cuts in at around 11.5k-12k...starts sputtering.

getting a new 5th and 6th gear is one of the best things to do for this bike new ratios are something along the lines of:

first number is the main gear/second number is the counter gear.

original gears:

5th 24/25 = 1.04

6th 26/24 = 0.92

new gears:

5th 24/27 = 1.125

6th 26/26 = 1.00

with a new 6th you will pull twice as hard.

phobic try the 14/42 sprocket combo, no lag and no over rev, perfect for city driving up to 110kph...anything faster need to change the front sprocker for out of town trips. I just throw the 15t/16t sprocket under the seat incase I go out of town.

peace, your past carb problems were probably do to the choke engaging itself, along with the fuel valve mounted underneath the gas tank malfunctioning.

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asean motors has them, but its cheaper to get them custom made at a machine shop...easiest thing to do is bring them a gear and tell them to cut another one with more teeth.

CBR parts manual is between 200-300 baht...then you can pin point which gears are which.

phobic, did your bike have an aluminum gasket under the cylinder?

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sinewave. You have had this done so why don't you just put the part numbers up. That way it will save these poor people spending 200-300b on a parts manual that you already have.

Phobic. still waiting for you current address. PM me and i will send you the pipe and a set of tyres.

Edited by thaicbr
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peace, your past carb problems were probably do to the choke engaging itself, along with the fuel valve mounted underneath the gas tank malfunctioning.
We disconnected the choke cable. Dealer reassembled the carb at least once. I gave up. New bike has no problems.
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sinewave. You have had this done so why don't you just put the part numbers up. That way it will save these poor people spending 200-300b on a parts manual that you already have.

Phobic. still waiting for you current address. PM me and i will send you the pipe and a set of tyres.

i dont have the part numbers handy, but torrentreactor has a few links to download them for free.

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Im having a good mind of filling up with some E10 when i finish the load i still got in there -just to settle my unrest. The best E10 i could get here is Shell's Velocity (im not sure what it's called there), but it's got a RON of 97.

CDI doesnt change the powerband in the engine.. just the limit. what sparkplug did you use when you detected that it lost power? It could be that you need the sparkplug to be hotter?

I use a aftermarket pipe with the stock can ( modded to flow more air but keep the dB down abit ) which works great. I just saw on faddybike that they have a converter for the stock can and a aftermarket pipe which looks nice, dont know about the price though but my guess is a few thou bht. Im very tempted to buy the new fairing set they have there and the swing arm ( pro-arm )

If you getting a unlimited CDI i would recommend to change some parts in the engine too like piston, connection rod etc.. as the stock piston will blow for sure if you rev it to much ( its hard not to since it has "alot" of power 12k+ rpm ). I wonder if there is a CDI with a limit at 14.5k.. would be nice.

I use 14/44 sprockets on my bike, which is the best combo i have tried so far... but im a light rider so it doesnt loose to much power in 6th.. 15/44 is also nice, gave some more power in 6th but not worth the lost accleration for me.

/peace

@ phobic..

Always used Denso IU-24 (those are comparatively warmer, which is suitable for city driving, compared to the IU-27). BTw., i think Denso Iridium plugs deliver a more solid electricity than NGKs. -haven't touched any of the wires or ignition coil tho.

I got that so-called quiet open pipe too. That mod cost me about 700 in THB, instead of getting a complete DBS CF racing exhaust which would cost (here) about 6700THB. It works good enough.

My sprocket ratio is 15/47 .. used to have a 15/48 but it had too much vibration. I was able to keep up with a S4-vtec on the little and tight twisties, but it left me miles behind on the straight -,-

Btw based on some proarm user's feedback here.. the wheelbase got an additional inch or two. Not sure how it'd affect rake & trail.

The bike "bogs" at 11500-12000 rpm because the rev-limiter kicks in at 11500 ( the red-line).

That's what i figured :/

Since owning a Corvette-engined Austin-Healey in 1963, I have usually bought unmodified motor vehicles. If I had wanted 28 hp, I would have paid several times as much for a far larger new bike. The CBR150 only looks fast.

You're right on that one PB. Especially with tires of 130/70, it would just be too heavy.

the rev limiter cuts in at around 11.5k-12k...starts sputtering.

getting a new 5th and 6th gear is one of the best things to do for this bike new ratios are something along the lines of:

first number is the main gear/second number is the counter gear.

original gears:

5th 24/25 = 1.04

6th 26/24 = 0.92

new gears:

5th 24/27 = 1.125

6th 26/26 = 1.00

with a new 6th you will pull twice as hard.

phobic try the 14/42 sprocket combo, no lag and no over rev, perfect for city driving up to 110kph...anything faster need to change the front sprocker for out of town trips. I just throw the 15t/16t sprocket under the seat incase I go out of town.

peace, your past carb problems were probably do to the choke engaging itself, along with the fuel valve mounted underneath the gas tank malfunctioning.

"the rev limiter cuts in at around 11.5k-12k...starts sputtering." -that's exactly what happens to my bike

14/42 would be like 15/46.. good compromise sinewave :)

This might be what you're lookin for thaicbr ...

cbr150re16.jpg

.

Edited by songoku777
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15/47 is 3.13

14/44 is 3.14

funny thing is eventhough they differ by 0.01 you can still tell the difference...Wondering if a custom ratio like 12/36 (3.00) would have characteristics unlike 14/42 (also 3.00) since the weight would be reduced.

My friend tried 14/47, which was great for wheelies, but felt like the bike was going to blow up and the gears meshed like crap.

here's some numbers i put together:

in order of ratio:

3.35 = 14/47

3.14 = 14/44

3.13 = 15/47

3.00 = 14/42

2.94 = 16/47

2.93 = 15/44

2.86 = 14/40

2.80 = 15/42

2.75 = 16/44

2.67 = 15/40

2.63 = 16/42

2.50 = 16/40

grouped:

3.14 = 14/44

2.93 = 15/44

2.75 = 16/44

3.00 = 14/42

2.80 = 15/42

2.63 = 16/42

2.86 = 14/40

2.67 = 15/40

2.50 = 16/40

thaicbr, you remind me of my drunk uncle...cheers man.

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Just for information's sake. Some of you will be surprised to know that I have been running gasohol in my 2003 CBR150 for many years. Actually I did this in ignorance, not knowing there was a potential for damage. It was years before I realized my error.

That being said, my bike runs just as good as the day I bought her. I have 30,000 Km's on the Ode and and at least 20,000 of those are gasahol powered. I am not saying you guys should go ahead and do like me, but I am just going to keep running gasahol.

I did wreck the fuel line in my car though because of the same lack of understanding. I no longer run that car on gasahol.

You see I can learn, I am just slow.

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Just for information's sake. Some of you will be surprised to know that I have been running gasohol in my 2003 CBR150 for many years. Actually I did this in ignorance, not knowing there was a potential for damage. It was years before I realized my error.

That being said, my bike runs just as good as the day I bought her. I have 30,000 Km's on the Ode and and at least 20,000 of those are gasahol powered. I am not saying you guys should go ahead and do like me, but I am just going to keep running gasahol.

I did wreck the fuel line in my car though because of the same lack of understanding. I no longer run that car on gasahol.

You see I can learn, I am just slow.

I did the same thing on a Mitsubishi truck until the carb float glue dissolved from its metal bracket. But that was at 90,000 miles. The dealer put a new one in and said the new one was good for Gasohol so kept pumping it in. I do run an occasional tank of Gasohol through my CBR-150 and don't worry about it. Usually try to use benzene, but glad to hear your report.

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