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Posted
Agreed, front brake doesn't get you killed. Using only the back brake might get you killed. Use both.

This forum is killing me :) ! Just kidding. Why use the brakes at all!

Friend of mine who is wicked fast on his VFR800 likes to say, "You Brake, You Lose".

First time I rode with him I thought his brake light was kaput. It's not!

I wonder if Travelmate has anything to add? :D:D

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Posted

Sitting at a traffic light after school this week, all the teen-aged boys were really looking at my CBR150. It's now in its ninth model year with no changes, and many bigger bikes and nearly-equal scooters are on the market. They and their fathers still see it as the champion.

Posted

I told him to use the rear brake so he doesnt get confused and pull the clutch instead. Seen it happen to new riders so many times its not funny.

Go ahead and use 70% braking on a sandy road and see where it gets you.

Posted
Sitting at a traffic light after school this week, all the teen-aged boys were really looking at my CBR150. It's now in its ninth model year with no changes, and many bigger bikes and nearly-equal scooters are on the market. They and their fathers still see it as the champion.

Why fix it if its not broken? Honda's view I think. The bike is still the best value/performance/style for money bike on the Thai market.

But wouldnt it be soooo good to see it at the Bkk Motor Show with a V 250 squeezed into it, double front discs and wider rims. My order would be instant!! Honda have the CBR 125 to keep the small end market going and a revised 150 up to 250cc would make many new sales from existing 150 owners sure.

Oh well....nice to dream.

Posted
I've avoided saying this for a long time, but I've had 'problems' with Asean moto.

Including waiting for months for parts, and not being refunded 2000 baht when the they sent me the wrong rearsets for my bike

Am having that very problem right now.

Ordered an exhaust system and when I called he said " yeah its done, but its red" <deleted>? A red carbon fiber exhaust.

No thank you sir, my bike is black and silver please get me the one that is in the pic on your website. A month later now and he says he's waiting for a call from the company when they get new stock of carbon fiber.

What a headache, one that I have already paid for..

I sent them an email last week and haven't got a reply. Think I'll try elsewhere for what I wanted. Have bought a couple of things from Faddybike and was happy with them.

So anyone know where I can get a 47T sproket? Faddybike doesn't have that size listed though I could try a 14T front sproket instead. And again anyone know of a seat upholsterer in BKK that's good?

Thanks

47t aren't available for the CBR 150, you have to get a TZM sprocket and drill the mounting holes. But from testing sprockets, theres no need for 47t, stick with 15/44 for all around performance.

14/44 is mighty nice in the city though, really good smooth acceleration, the engine loves it but can't really go past 100kph. 14/47 makes the engine unstable, something doesn't synch correctly with this ratio.

divide the rear sprocket by the front sprocket to get a close ratio your looking for.

example 44 divided by 15 = 2.9333333

a difference of 0.1 WILL make a subtle difference that you can feel

Posted
I told him to use the rear brake so he doesnt get confused and pull the clutch instead. Seen it happen to new riders so many times its not funny.

Go ahead and use 70% braking on a sandy road and see where it gets you.

So I guess in your world instead of learning how to use front and rear brakes properly all the newbies should ignore the front brake and use only 30% braking when a Tuk Tuk, Taxi, Bus, Dog, Buffalo, etc jump out in front of them. Good advice there mate... NOT! :)

Posted
The front brake lever is on the right side. The clutch lever is on the left. It's not rocket surgery.

Rocket surgery? Maybe you mean rocket SCIENCE? :) I didn't know there were rocket surgeons.

Anyhow I'm glad you pointed this out. I think on my NSR it's the same way.

Have you changed your shift pattern to 1 up 5 down? That's great fun.

Race pattern. . .Just don't let anyone ride your bike.

Posted

Can anybody recommend am exhaust for under 2000b that would increase performance?

I'm happy with it since I've had the carb cleaned, new air filter, spark plug. Am going to up the size of the jet next week too.

But everything is stock besides the bridgestone tyres. Are there any cheap exhausts that help give some extra boost?

Thanks.

Posted

I have an Endurance muffler and performance down pipe for sale. 1500b + EMS DELIVERY. (Its pretty loud so no good for Pattaya or Bkk, but upcountry no probs) Pm me if interested. Allan

Posted (edited)
I told him to use the rear brake so he doesnt get confused and pull the clutch instead. Seen it happen to new riders so many times its not funny.

Go ahead and use 70% braking on a sandy road and see where it gets you.

So I guess in your world instead of learning how to use front and rear brakes properly all the newbies should ignore the front brake and use only 30% braking when a Tuk Tuk, Taxi, Bus, Dog, Buffalo, etc jump out in front of them. Good advice there mate... NOT! :)

Well if any of those things jump in front of you and you hit loose sand or gravel you are screwed if you use the front brake anyway. As you would be if you used the front brake anytime when these things are on the road, I know here in CM there is sand everywhere outside of Muang and many places inside.

So yes, advice to a newbie would be, only use the front brake if you MUST as the chances of recovery from a slip when on the front brake are slight to nil. Otherwise learning to use both front and back should come with experience.

I have an Endurance muffler and performance down pipe for sale. 1500b + EMS DELIVERY. (Its pretty loud so no good for Pattaya or Bkk, but upcountry no probs) Pm me if interested. Allan

Carbon fiber, Aluminum?

Edited by Calikid
Posted
I'm willing to knock 7% off my top speed to get faster acceleration. How to do that?

Going up 3 teeth in the rear may knock 7% off your top speed (it may actually make you go faster if you're not redlining in top gear with stock sprockets) and get you better acceleration (assuming your wrist isn't too limp<--comment from another thread).

Posted
I'm willing to knock 7% off my top speed to get faster acceleration. How to do that?
Going up 3 teeth in the rear may knock 7% off your top speed (it may actually make you go faster if you're not redlining in top gear with stock sprockets) and get you better acceleration (assuming your wrist isn't too limp<--comment from another thread).

I doubt it redlines in sixth. I have poor hand coordination in my throttle hand, but two strong wrists.
Posted (edited)
I'm willing to knock 7% off my top speed to get faster acceleration. How to do that?

Put a NOS sticker on your bike.

14/42 is as close as you can get without making custom sprockets, but this combination also doesn't synch as good as 14/44...of course this is a trick question because your a math teacher.

You can actually go over 100kph with 14/44, but the bike is going to be revving really high...sounds bad ass though...Did Bangkok to Ban Saen one time on 14/44 wont be doing it again.

For my setup 16/46 would be the best setup -but they don't make 46t.

Edited by Powerband
Posted
Can anybody recommend am exhaust for under 2000b that would increase performance?

I'm happy with it since I've had the carb cleaned, new air filter, spark plug. Am going to up the size of the jet next week too.

But everything is stock besides the bridgestone tyres. Are there any cheap exhausts that help give some extra boost?

Thanks.

Stock pipe and silencer is best in my experiments, louder doesnt mean faster. Take a look at your sprockets and see what your running before you do anything.
Posted (edited)
Take a look at your sprockets and see what your running before you do anything.
But everything is stock besides the bridgestone tyres

and I certainly don't want louder. Just a few cheap little tweeks that give a bit more umph.

Edited by Yimmy
Posted
Take a look at your sprockets and see what your running before you do anything.
But everything is stock besides the bridgestone tyres
and I certainly don't want louder. Just a few cheap little tweeks that give a bit more umph.

All aftermarket exhaust system here in Asia are very Loud ., !

Here is my Set for Sale :

post-40903-1264864802_thumb.jpg

Posted
Take a look at your sprockets and see what your running before you do anything.
But everything is stock besides the bridgestone tyres

and I certainly don't want louder. Just a few cheap little tweeks that give a bit more umph.

Get a good spark plug wire, and take the resistor out of the sparkplug boot, it's just there to lower radio emissions that get into the environment. NGK racing needle plug.

Some bikes see an improvement with the resistor out, some don't, usually the older ones don't because of a weakened CDI over the years.

These mods will get you to 140 kph easier, and throttle response will improve. The resistor has been out of this bike for about a year now, no problems.

A 'good' CDI, will have a smoother curve and remove the cutout limit at 11.5k (or 10.5K?), these go for around 2500-3000 baht for a good one.

The cheap ones by API at 1400 baht like to blow up.

Check the sprockets, not all model years had the same ratios.

Posted
All aftermarket exhaust system here in Asia are very Loud ., !

Here is my Set for Sale :

post-40903-1264864802_thumb.jpg

Okay, thanks. What sort of difference did you find it made to the performance? Thanks.

Posted
Get a good spark plug wire, and take the resistor out of the sparkplug boot, it's just there to lower radio emissions that get into the environment. NGK racing needle plug.

Some bikes see an improvement with the resistor out, some don't, usually the older ones don't because of a weakened CDI over the years.

These mods will get you to 140 kph easier, and throttle response will improve. The resistor has been out of this bike for about a year now, no problems.

A 'good' CDI, will have a smoother curve and remove the cutout limit at 11.5k (or 10.5K?), these go for around 2500-3000 baht for a good one.

The cheap ones by API at 1400 baht like to blow up.

Check the sprockets, not all model years had the same ratios.

good info thanks. Am going to take it to another Honda dealer in BKK and try to get the bigger jet. (115 upto 120). And a new airfilter and another carb clean for the sake of it. Will ask to have the resistor taken out of the sparkplug boot too.

Cheers. :)

Posted
All aftermarket exhaust system here in Asia are very Loud ., !

Here is my Set for Sale :

post-40903-1264864802_thumb.jpg

Okay, thanks. What sort of difference did you find it made to the performance? Thanks.

Hi., The bikes feel more Alive . , It Rev from 0-11500 much smoother . . , I Sport Airfilter is a most also . , Or modded AirboX.

Posted
Get a good spark plug wire, and take the resistor out of the sparkplug boot, it's just there to lower radio emissions that get into the environment. NGK racing needle plug.

Some bikes see an improvement with the resistor out, some don't, usually the older ones don't because of a weakened CDI over the years.

These mods will get you to 140 kph easier, and throttle response will improve. The resistor has been out of this bike for about a year now, no problems.

A 'good' CDI, will have a smoother curve and remove the cutout limit at 11.5k (or 10.5K?), these go for around 2500-3000 baht for a good one.

The cheap ones by API at 1400 baht like to blow up.

Check the sprockets, not all model years had the same ratios.

good info thanks. Am going to take it to another Honda dealer in BKK and try to get the bigger jet. (115 upto 120). And a new airfilter and another carb clean for the sake of it. Will ask to have the resistor taken out of the sparkplug boot too.

Cheers. :)

The resistor has to be replaced with a conductive metal the same length as the resistor. Looking into the sparkplug boot, use a screwdriver to screw out the retaining screw.

The shop won't know what your talking about, and most mechanics won't know of this trick and think your a freak. If you do it yourself , be sure not to lose the spring when you unscrew.

Aftermarket sparkplug wires may or may not have the resistor in them. Its hard to find a sparkplug wire that has the proper boot for the cbr.

The resistor reads 5 ohms, its white with red ends and silver tipped, so if you get a sparkplug wire measure the resistance from filaments to the interior of the boot. It should read from 0.2-0.0 ohms. Most meters will read 0.2 ohms, thats the resistance of the meters leads usually.

Posted
Take a look at your sprockets and see what your running before you do anything.
But everything is stock besides the bridgestone tyres
and I certainly don't want louder. Just a few cheap little tweeks that give a bit more umph.

All aftermarket exhaust system here in Asia are very Loud ., !

I have a DBS, and I had a motorcycle muffler shop put a tube in about 1/3 of the way up the muffler. WAY better than a hollow pipe with just fiberglass packing.

Gave the right back pressure, and I now have smooth low-end torque and a strong high end. Not too loud when just driving, and has a nice crack through high revs.

Really made the bike in my opinion (that, the bigger back sprocket, and the 166cc piston...). Still have the 26mm carb (a little bigger jets).

3000km on the new piston - going strong. Cruise at 9-10k (120-130) all the time (synthetic oil).

With the sprocket there is torque to 140 (11.5k) - I'm 65kg , and with the cdi 150k/h hit pretty easily (12.5k I think).

Good enough top end for me, and really nippy acceleration...

Posted
Can any one link me to any one that sales the bigger downpipe for the original muffler. . , Faddys version is far to expensive....,,

Trying to look on mocyc.com but dont find :/

I bought one from there a week ago it was 1500 Baht. I think they've changed their supplier.

Is it larger than the original downpipe? And how was the fit? I just ordered one today so looking forward to replacing my rotted out pipe.

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