bankruatsteve Posted September 29, 2020 Share Posted September 29, 2020 I bought a submersible pump today along with pressure control to start/stop the pump. (FROG 3" 1/2 HP) Staff was clueless on how to wire it for control and the pressure manual just shows L&N in with V&U out. Testing shows 220v on V&U for a few seconds after plug in the pressure control then it drops off in "Failure" mode (no pressure). So my thought is to remove the brown and blue from top position 3&4 and connect those to L&N to the pressure control. Then connect V&U back to the pump box 3&4. Does that make sense? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted September 29, 2020 Share Posted September 29, 2020 Mains in to LNE of the pressure unit. UV and E of the pressure unit to the incoming power terminals of the pump unit. Assuming your pressure control can handle the pump current otherwise you will need a relay/contactor. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bankruatsteve Posted September 29, 2020 Author Share Posted September 29, 2020 The pump is rated at 350W {or something like that}. The pressure control rated for 10a. The pump wires are supposed to connect at bottom position 3,4,5 (L, N, cap) + E. Is what I said and you said the same thing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted September 29, 2020 Share Posted September 29, 2020 16 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said: Is what I said and you said the same thing? Possibly. The existing wire in to the pump box goes to UV E of the pressure switch. Rating should be fine. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxpower Posted September 29, 2020 Share Posted September 29, 2020 I know zip about the pump control body but its PCB LS-8 controller board is in our PCB manufacturers database and referenced by several Shenzhen companies. The boards come with a few options but all appear to have flow and pressure detection via on board reed switches. Supply in via LN out via VU. They have two timers and some simple logic which includes pressure detection flow detection and reset. The logic diagram suggests the flow switch will likely generate some error if not satisfied within the preset time window. The output relay is controlled by some combination of flow and pressure. LS8/LS8AB 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bankruatsteve Posted September 29, 2020 Author Share Posted September 29, 2020 The control box for the pump has on/off switch. So I want to use that. I think I've got it. Thanks for your input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bankruatsteve Posted October 7, 2020 Author Share Posted October 7, 2020 So, I wanted to mount the pressure control using unions "just in case". Do Home (where i got everything else) was out of stock for 1" unions. Went into the local supply and a few places had unions but they look like a dumbbell and use triangle shape rings to make the connection (versus gluing). OK give them a try. Turn on the pump and before it hit 10psi BOOM the union burst apart. Thought maybe I just didn't get them tight enough so really synched them. BOOM .. BOOM I ordered some proper unions from Lazada and received them in 2-3 days. Got everything hooked up (the pressure control like my OP) and works great. FYI: the 1/2 HP pump is at 28 meters and it shows 25psi (or so) with open faucet and shuts off about 30psi. Much better than my old 1-1/2 HP jet pump. And, it only pulls between 1-2 amps. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted October 7, 2020 Share Posted October 7, 2020 Those "dumbbell" joiners really need to be wanged up with the stilsons and they still creep and pop off under pressure if the pipes can move at all. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophon Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 Yeah, I tried those too with our well pump, but the material is just too soft and flexible. As soon as there is a bit on pressure in the system, they pop off. A shame, because I really like the design and think they would work well if made from a harder material. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bankruatsteve Posted October 11, 2020 Author Share Posted October 11, 2020 27 minutes ago, Sophon said: Yeah, I tried those too with our well pump, but the material is just too soft and flexible. As soon as there is a bit on pressure in the system, they pop off. A shame, because I really like the design and think they would work well if made from a harder material. I think the PVC is OK. The problem with that kind is that there is nothing that "glues" to make a solid connection. Those rubber rings might be OK for a drainage line but any pressure will have them slide off. Both pipes being connected would have to be absolutely unmovable for it to work but then how do you hook it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlyai Posted November 15, 2020 Share Posted November 15, 2020 Thanks Steve: ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yellowtail Posted November 15, 2020 Share Posted November 15, 2020 I like to use the slide-on type unions for the feed side of the pump and the glue on type for the pressure side, that gives a couple inches of movement. Nice thins about the slide-ons is they are reusable too. I've found if they are oriented such that the pipe can't move they're fine. They don't seem to leak at all, until they pop off! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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