The attached pic shows typical Thai concrete bench top along with bonus of lovely colour. Ha.

So my question. Not sure how a contractor would go about cut out for say sink and also cooktop. 

Had many jobs where after concreting driveways contractor follows with cuts. Also appropriate tool for cutting opening in brick walls etc.

Anyone had bench top cut outs in similar situation. 

BTW in far top corner of pic is some sort of water purifier attached to something under bench. That's a throw away item I assume.

Thanks for any advice. 

How thick is it?

 

How high is it?

 

Do you have water and a drain under it?

Thickness is the issue.

You can do well with a 125mm grinder, diamond blade and vacuume.

It does look to be around 100mm thick though, and I’ve never liked playing with 7 inch grinders...

Thanks guys. I cannot answer the questions above as only take ownership next week. 

My guess based on the tiles being 200x200 looks like top would be 75mm.

My plan was was to install a new European style kitchen on wall opposite, however renting it out for next few years and thinking of use of current yellow Submarine as an option during that period. The kitchen is 2700x4200 so has options. Attached is pic showing sink location. Yes ugly but functional to some extent. The plan is install new kitchen on wall opposite or just install sink and cooktop on existing 

3 hours ago, DrJack54 said:

The attached pic shows typical Thai concrete bench top along with bonus of lovely colour. Ha.

So my question. Not sure how a contractor would go about cut out for say sink and also cooktop. 

Regrettably cutting a concrete top for a sink and cooktop is a very nonstandard way of doing things. 
 

There is no guarantee that it’s going to work, you could end up needing to do the job properly which is to cast the openings into the concrete, because your existing top breaks, either when you cut or later when you have a weight on a fragile strip that has no rebar in it. 

 

The problem you have is that while cutting the concrete top isn’t rocket science, an angle grinder will do the job easily, you don’t know where the rebar is in the concrete, assuming that it’s got rebar in it. So when cutting you may be leaving the top with little reenforcement as you cut through what’s been used.

 

if you cast the openings in you would shape the reenforcement around the openings.

 

you may have to go with just drilling openings for water, gas and waste water then putting the sink and cooker on top of the current counter. The counter top hight is probably set low enough as it was probably the intended way from the start.

10 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

you may have to go with just drilling openings for water, gas and waste water then putting the sink and cooker on top of the current counter. The counter top hight is probably set low enough as it was probably the intended way from the start.

Again as per your other advice in my other topics, I think your right on the money. The added vote in favour of leaving the yellow Submarine in that is that's it's sound and functional. 

The new kitchen opposite very simple.

Your correct re bench height it's ~ 700mm so below normal. 

Did also look at new tiles over it.

Many years ago when porcelain first landed it was only available in couple of colours. I started using it as splash backs. Now the selection is amazing. Even in 60x120cm size.

Ta

18 hours ago, DrJack54 said:

Again as per your other advice in my other topics, I think your right on the money. The added vote in favour of leaving the yellow Submarine in that is that's it's sound and functional. 

The new kitchen opposite very simple.

Your correct re bench height it's ~ 700mm so below normal. 

Did also look at new tiles over it.

Many years ago when porcelain first landed it was only available in couple of colours. I started using it as splash backs. Now the selection is amazing. Even in 60x120cm size.

Ta

 

Relocating the drain might prove to be be more of a hassle than cutting the hole. A gas hob will sit nicely on it.

 

Do yourself a favor, make a sketch of the room and take a few photos, then go to HomePro of some-such and have them work up a design for you. You don't have to use them for the work, but it will give you some ideas.

 

If you do order cabinets and or counters, make sure you specify the height. 

 

If you're going to live there a couple years, put in a decent kitchen, 

Asking another question in this thread I started unrelated to cutting concrete.

Earlier in this thread there is picture or sink and waste pipes. I'm having trouble finding plumbing waste fittings. Need 40, 50mm. It seems places such as home pro pretty much only stock smaller fittings for water. Strangely home pro stocks an S bend.

Any suggestions appreciated.

1 hour ago, DrJack54 said:

Asking another question in this thread I started unrelated to cutting concrete.

Earlier in this thread there is picture or sink and waste pipes. I'm having trouble finding plumbing waste fittings. Need 40, 50mm. It seems places such as home pro pretty much only stock smaller fittings for water. Strangely home pro stocks an S bend.

Any suggestions appreciated.

I’ve found that Global House, DoHome & Thai Watsadu all carry different and often more expansive selections than HomePro, so I have had to visit more than a single supplier. 
 

I have also had to use a fitting designed for LDPR pipe in my PVC outlet as there was no PVC fitting in the correct size, so don’t forget there are several other options available not only PVC fittings.

15 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

I’ve found that Global House, DoHome & Thai Watsadu all carry different and often more expansive selections than HomePro, so I have had to visit more than a single supplier. 
 

I have also had to use a fitting designed for LDPR pipe in my PVC outlet as there was no PVC fitting in the correct size, so don’t forget there are several other options available not only PVC fittings.

Thanks (as usual) for your informative replies.

Below is pic of what I'm doing. My hand is on a 50mm elbow that has a 50/40 reducer. It runs straight down. The water pipe outlet is in line with front edge of (new) kitchen. I have since the pic opened it up now so after cut out elbow, will move both water and waste to the right ~100mm. 

 

Re my question above pipe and fittings. As often the case in Thailand, I found couple of small shops dedicated to this. In my area it was across road from Ding Daeng Market.

4 hours ago, DrJack54 said:

Thanks (as usual) for your informative replies.

Below is pic of what I'm doing. My hand is on a 50mm elbow that has a 50/40 reducer. It runs straight down. The water pipe outlet is in line with front edge of (new) kitchen. I have since the pic opened it up now so after cut out elbow, will move both water and waste to the right ~100mm. 

 

The forums are totally messed up at the moment, they have been screwed for at least 2 days, the servers are almost certainly under rated for the traffic they are getting, they need a few M1 Mac Minis to speed things up.

Your picture didn’t come through, mine probably won’t either, it’s the extra fitting I needed.

 

All moved now. 

Where does the stubbed-out water pipe go to/come from?

4 hours ago, Yellowtail said:

Where does the stubbed-out water pipe go to/come from?

 

4 hours ago, Yellowtail said:

Where does the stubbed-out water pipe go to/come from?

The water pipe with stop valve I believe runs ~ metre or two to the left. I pushed in probe and it stopped. Could be a bend or just cap fitting.

I was turning water back on and the tank is 4 levels up so put stop valve on just in case.

Edit...just realized you meant the bottom water pipe. Just has temporary cap. It will be supply to sink.