Wood glue for making furniture

[tomster]

Hi,

 

I would like to try my hand at making some home (indoor) furniture out of rubberwood sheet wood, the stuff that comes in 8 ft by 4 ft sheets under the Boonwood brand.

 

I need a good wood glue for this, something like Titebond from the USA but would prefer a local brand if possible.

 

I think TOA do some but I have no idea which one is which and can't seem to find anybody to explain in English - I would really welcome some feedback from people that have used these glues and their thoughts on which ones are good, which ones to avoid etc.

 

Many thanks in advance.

[DaLa]

I import antique furniture, the glue has deteriorated with age and then 5 weeks at sea takes its toll. I re-build using this. It comes in larger commercial sizes from Home Pro or Thai Watsadu.  Glue, clamp for one hour, full strength in 1 day. Stronger than the wood. 

 

[tomster]

5 minutes ago, DaLa said:

I import antique furniture, the glue has deteriorated with age and then 5 weeks at sea takes its toll. I re-build using this. It comes in larger commercial sizes from Home Pro or Thai Watsadu.  Glue, clamp for one hour, full strength in 1 day. Stronger than the wood. 

 

Thanks, I will get some and give it a try. 

[sometimewoodworker]

2 minutes ago, tomster said:

Thanks, I will get some and give it a try. 

Elmer’s is way over priced I currently mostly use TOA LA-44 i generally buy the 5 kg box as it’s cheaper, I also use LA-35A and LA-22s 

 

Virtually all PVA glue will give a stronger bond than the wood. 

 

you may want to add a little water to thin them down a bit. 

[tomster]

3 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Elmer’s is way over priced I currently mostly use TOA LA-44 i generally buy the 5 kg box as it’s cheaper, I also use LA-35A and LA-22s 

 

Virtually all PVA glue will give a stronger bond than the wood. 

 

you may want to add a little water to thin them down a bit. 

Many Thanks, I will buy some and test. 

[canopy]

I use the top of the line that the professionals use--Titebond III which is waterproof, food safe, and can be used with oily tropical hardwoods. Perfect for Thailand and any project. Found on lazada in bottles as small as 4oz and for large quantities 10L containers can be purchased direct from franklin in Thailand.

 

[tomster]

5 minutes ago, canopy said:

I use the top of the line that the professionals use--Titebond III which is waterproof, food safe, and can be used with oily tropical hardwoods. Perfect for Thailand and any project. Found on lazada in bottles as small as 4oz and for large quantities 10L containers can be purchased direct from franklin in Thailand.

 

Franklin Thailand as in these guys:

 

http://franklinthailand.com

 

They seem to be an electrical supply company... 

[canopy]

Here is a link to find Franklin distributers.

 

http://www.franklinadhesivesandpolymers.com/home/distributor-locator.aspx

 

[tomster]

4 hours ago, canopy said:

Here is a link to find Franklin distributers.

 

http://www.franklinadhesivesandpolymers.com/home/distributor-locator.aspx

 

Thanks.

 

Here is the distributor in Thailand by the looks of things (adding to help future searchers):

 

Wood Chemicals Ltd.

982,984 Srinakarin Rd.
Patthanakarn, Suanluang, Bangkok, Thailand 10250
662-322-9437
[email protected]

 

[Yellowtail]

What glue you use is not nearly as important as using it correctly.

[sometimewoodworker]

4 hours ago, Yellowtail said:

What glue you use is not nearly as important as using it correctly.

Absolutely here’s the latest table top, it’s just about to come out of the clamps, then the edges will get trimmed and shaped. It’s not rubber wood but pine so quite a bit softer. 

 

I haven’t made the legs for this one as the ready made legs will do a good job

 

here is the joint detail. 
 

Edited May 1, 2021 by sometimewoodworker

[Barty]

1 hour ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Absolutely here’s the latest table top, it’s just about to come out of the clamps, then the edges will get trimmed and shaped. It’s not rubber wood but pine so quite a bit softer. 

 

I haven’t made the legs for this one as the ready made legs will do a good job

 

here is the joint detail. 
 

 

What brand of planer thicknesser are you using? Would you recommend it? I just got some walnut and white oak that I will need to run through a thicknesser.

 

Also, what do you think of the Bigwood dust collector?

[tomster]

7 minutes ago, Barty said:

 

What brand of planer thicknesser are you using? Would you recommend it? I just got some walnut and white oak that I will need to run through a thicknesser.

 

Also, what do you think of the Bigwood dust collector?

Also interested in the feedback on the bigwood dust collector, was looking at getting one.

 

[sometimewoodworker]

1 hour ago, Barty said:

 

What brand of planer thicknesser are you using? Would you recommend it? I just got some walnut and white oak that I will need to run through a thicknesser.

 

Also, what do you think of the Bigwood dust collector?

It’s a DeWalt DW1150 and is a good machine, but it hasn’t been made for about 40

years, the Bigwood chip collector does the job it’s designed for and is value for money, I did get some extra 4” pipe for it

1 hour ago, tomster said:

Also interested in the feedback on the bigwood dust collector, was looking at getting one.

It’s a generic collector and is the least expensive version available. It’s only drawback is that the chips go through the fan blades so it can’t deal with big chunks 

[sometimewoodworker]

The DeWalt 

[Barty]

Any opinion on the Dewalt DW735?

[sometimewoodworker]

11 hours ago, Barty said:

Any opinion on the Dewalt DW735?

There is no comparison possible  between mine and the DW735, so no I can’t comment 

[canopy]

On 5/1/2021 at 9:27 PM, Barty said:

Any opinion on the Dewalt DW735?

 

There are 2 decent bench top thickness planers sold in Thailand: dewalt and makita. I have owned both. The upside of the makita is it is pure metric units where dewalt did a half baked job of customizing for metric. The Dewalt is 13" wide and Makita is 12". The most important thing is to use carbide blades which are available aftermarket for both. And going with Helical carbide cutter heads make them into dream machines. The woods here like teak blunt HSS very fast.

 

[Barty]

On 5/2/2021 at 9:20 AM, sometimewoodworker said:

There is no comparison possible  between mine and the DW735, so no I can’t comment 

Thanks for letting me know.

[Barty]

19 hours ago, canopy said:

 

There are 2 decent bench top thickness planers sold in Thailand: dewalt and makita. I have owned both. The upside of the makita is it is pure metric units where dewalt did a half baked job of customizing for metric. The Dewalt is 13" wide and Makita is 12". The most important thing is to use carbide blades which are available aftermarket for both. And going with Helical carbide cutter heads make them into dream machines. The woods here like teak blunt HSS very fast.

 

Thanks for the info. I have looked at a few YouTube videos on the Dewalt and will probably go with the DW735.  Are you buying the carbide blades or helical cutters locally?

[canopy]

3 hours ago, Barty said:

Are you buying the carbide blades or helical cutters locally?

carbide knife blades for the makita 2012nb are in some hardware stores and on lazada. For everything else carbide see amazon. The thing I love about the helical heads is they make the dewalt dw735 so quiet. Without them it is a noisy beast needing ear protection. Another advantage is a chip ruins knife blades but with helical you just rotate the chipped insert and you're good to go. Helical is also better cutting quality--no more chatter marks around knots. I love helical, there's no going back.

 

[Barty]

2 hours ago, canopy said:

Helical is also better cutting quality--no more chatter marks around knots. I love helical, there's no going back.

Thanks for the advise. The Byrd and Shelix cutters are eye watering expensive by the time they are imported in Thailand. If it looks like I have enough work to justify it, I will probably go with the Byrd helical cutter on the DW735.

[sometimewoodworker]

2 hours ago, Barty said:

Thanks for the advise. The Byrd and Shelix cutters are eye watering expensive by the time they are imported in Thailand. If it looks like I have enough work to justify it, I will probably go with the Byrd helical cutter on the DW735.

Do remember that the helical cutters require more power for an equal depth cut so you will be limited to the amounts you can take of in one pass.
 

They are not a cutter that you can use on every machine, if your motor is running at full power and, like the DW, you can’t put in a bigger motor then even though the head is available it could be a poor choice. Get feedback from users in Australia and the U.K. as they will have the same motor, not the USA as they probably have the 110v version, also check your local supply voltage compared to the one the report is coming from, ours is usually 225v some U.K. users report 250v. This will have a effect on the power you can get. 

 

 

[canopy]

The cutting depth of either planer is greatly limited by the width and hardness of the wood. Below are the guidelines for the dewalt (picture) and Makita (table).  No matter what blades are used, either machine with more power would be very welcome to those planing wide boards and there's nothing more annoying than a rough cut board getting stuck and the breaker tripping because there was a spot just 1mm thicker than you could see.

 

Now back to helical. It's true a helical cutter head in theory will reduce the maximum cutting depth. I cannot definitively say whether helical significantly effects maximum cutting depth, but I can say dull knives will shake both the makita and dewalt to pieces. I use the DW735 with helical in Thailand. Power from the PEA is low; 200-216 volt range. With helical I can take 1.5mm per pass off teak (this isn't pine) 6 inch wide boards but not 2mm. I'd love a bigger motor. Nevertheless, helical is a fabulous upgrade and makes it a completely new machine that is so quiet and cuts so much more beautifully saving a lot of time sanding the wood. I have sent kilometers of boards through and it's as sharp as brand new and only ever rotated one blade which is a simple allen key. With HSS the amount of down time and hassle of opening up the machine and sharpening multiple times a day and throwing away knives when chipped are all gone. If you aren't sure, look at what the professionals say about helical carbide. Plenty of clips out there on youtube.

 

There is one fly in the ointment when using byrd shelix on the DW735: there are two sizes. Get the OEM size instead of the reduced size. Read the comments on amazon and you'll learn why. For Makita they make only one size--OEM.

 

Dewalt DW735

 

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Makita 2012NB