50hz vs 60hz - Can I install a 240v 60hz light controller in Thailand?

[Scaliwags66]

Hello all, 

I am looking at running eight 1000 watt LED grow lights for an indoor grow. I obviously need to get the electrical issues sorted but have no experience with this. It was recommended I ask this forum so thanks in advance. 

 

Main Question: Can I use the American made Titan light controller (240v / 80 amps input / 60 amps output / 60hz) at my house. Will the fact it is 60 hz be problematic in Thailand?

 

I have seen some breakers have written 50 hz, and some say 50/60 hz. My breakers don't mention hz, only 240w. Below is more information if interested as well as pics.

 

I was looking at ordering a Titan Light Controller (linked below) to connect directly to the circuit breaker, and then plug the 8 lights directly into that.

https://www.titancontrols.net/shop/product/titan-controls-helios-18-12-light-240v-controller-with-dual-trigger-cords_29_000053?categoryId=lighting_3

 

The Titan is made in the US and is stating:

• Operates up to 12 -1000 Watt grow lights at 240 volts
• Universal outlets will accept either 120 volt or 240 volt ballast cord sets
• 80 Amps power input/60 Amps power output
• 240 Volts/60 Hz./12,000 Watt Max 
• 60 Hz.

 

However, the Safe-T-Cut is showing:

• 220/240VAC 50hz 2p
• 60 amps? 
• A 40 degree C 10000 AIC @ 240VAC
• IAN 5 / 15/ 25 mA
• Tripping Time 0.05 sec

 

The breakers all seem to be 240v, range of C10, C16, C20 and also say 6000 - 3 if that is relevant. There are 2 open slots in the box. 

 

I apologize for being a total novice, but am smart enough to know I need help. Definitely do not plan on doing the work myself, but any insight into what is possible or causes of concern would be much appreciated. Cheers

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[xtrnuno41]

What you want with that? If i red well, it is just a timer manager.

It is 60 Hz only, so with 50 Hz you could have "weird things" going on.

I wouldnt go there, RED flag, forget it. And what a price for such a stupid timer.

 

 

One light is 1000 W, so is 1000 /230 = 4,4 A. You can put 4 lights on 1 group, that equals 4X4.4 = 16.16 A on a C20 A fuse. Your cable from the box to the lights should be at least 4mm2. That is only for the 4 lamps on 1 group.

And only for going from fuse box to greenhouse. The cables of the lights can just do with a 1mm2 cable.

I dont know the distance from house to green house, as otherwise you maybe need even bigger cables. Is is about power loss then.

 

You do the same with the other 4 lamps on another C20 group.

Of course in the green house, you ll have to make a WATER TIGHT box with 4 wire connection strips. Per group you have a life (L) wire and a neutral (N), 2 strips.

Of course you need to loop the L and N wiring on the strips.

Then fit the lights on the other side of the strips, connecting one wire to L and the other to N, totally 4 lamps. Repeat then with the other group on the other strips. 

Now you can switch manually on the board, the fuses.

 

 

The T-safety cut can handle up to 60A. Your lights consume 2x 16.1116 = 32.32A.

So far all is well. So now it only depends on how much power you are using in your house. You have left over 60-32.32 = 27.68 A.

That would/could be enough for your house hold, depending on what big devices you are running in the house. Extreme users are showers, aircon's, electric ovens and/or if you are using them at the same time.

The more is on, the higher the Amps are.

However i see just 3 C16's and 4 C20's and you say even 2 arent used?

 

You would like to do it automatic?.

i would do it with just one light sensor and 2 solid state drives. Sun comes up, light switches off, sun going down light switches on. I see in Lazada sensor 100 baht-ish, solid state 100 baht-ish.

Of course the light sensor is away from any artificial light and only reacts on nature ways. 

So that is 300 baht, the rest is cabling and a water tight box with cable connections. Also i would use AMP wiring connections to the strips,

But i dont know how handy you are or the one who is going to execute.

[Crossy]

Leaving aside the 50/60Hz issue I really don't see that you need this box as you are using LED gro-lights rather than HID.

 

8 x 1000W lights is about 40A (around 5A per light) so you could easily run them off 4 cheap timers (2 per timer). Setting the timers to slightly different start times would mitigate any switch-on surge issues.

 

Something like this https://www.lazada.co.th/products/timer-kg316t-ll-timer-switch-220v-25a-i995590076-s2170728068.html 

 

A local sparks should be able to install a suitable breaker in your box and wire up the timers.

 

One other important point. What size meter does your place have, most of us have a 15/45 unit (it's marked on the meter) which maxes out at 45A officially (many use a 63A breaker) leaving you with precious little for any domestic stuff, do your plants need ventilation for example.

 

8000W of LED is a lot, how big is your growing area, are you sure you're not going to cook the plants?

 

EDIT By the way, 8000W of lighting is going to suck up 8kWh of energy every hour, so a 12 hour grow day would use 104kWh or about 450Baht at today's rate. Why an indoor grow when there's a great big fusion reactor in the sky blasting out up to 1,000W per m² for free? Help it along with lights if you wish but the energy savings would be significant.